MajorTom

Hey Guys,

it is not about removing rivets.

The big issue would be the 4 holes I drilled at the 2 lower points of the engine mount.

So I rather wait for ICP to answer, befor I jump to action.

Yes, thanks Bob. You are right. One thing I like so much about all-aluminium birds is there allday use qualities.

I am not sure, I realy have to drill out the rivets. The bird passed the inspection like it is. I would humbly redo this section, but one problem are the 4 bolts betwen engine mount, extrusions and firewall. Theyre holes would not fit in the new (3mm deeper) position. Also drilling out so many important rivets along SL26 / 27 and thereby enlarging the holes might be critical. Considering all, it might be better to leave it like it is. So I asked ICP, if things can stay like they are.

Very funny, Richard. But good you are back. I almost feared, something bad did happen to you!

I don't know if you that same saying down under but: "I could bite my own ass"

Look what i did! Do you see the mistake?

Yes, this difference XL - S was not clear to me. I sometimes heard sometimes otherwise.

Thanks again Mark!

I gues will try to go for a battery on the inner side of the firewall, to keep the cable lenght short. I need to do all I can to built the bird lightweight, because we have a MTOW of 472,5 kg in germany. So 5kg in battery and 500g in cable is real good saving.

I like the idea with the bracked! Very nice.

The balance problem you had, was not fully clear to me. I was reading it but could not get all traight. Now is better. Thanks.

I shifted my elec fuel pump to under the seats between the fuel sump and where the alu fuel tube comes out under the floor.

Not sure I would use the lithium battery with the rotax generator. Some do and some dont. There is a brand Shorai that make them for motorcyles that seem to work ok. I would put a battery that light forward of the original as the tail of the S is heavier this is why the S has the 8kg battery supplied behind the pilot seat where the 8kg battery in a XL is down the back as the rear end is a lot lighter

Finding the right position....

I'm wondering, if it might be a good idea to consider alternativ positions for some parts. Maybe the expirienced builders can help me sort this out.

---- I want to use a lightweight LiFePo battery. Where to put it?

1. position as per plan

2. under the pasenger or pilot seat

3. inside of the firewall

4. outside the firewall

Surely short cables are better than long cables. But what might count against it?

---- Why is that electric fuel pump under the cowling and near the mechanical pump? Why not put it just after the header tank? There is a nice place where the fuel line goes from right to left, easy to reach, just beside the trap door.

Thanks!

It's probably easiest just to go with one trim switch.

Could a 3 stage relay be an option?

Thanks Perry,

what a relief. I was kind of uncertain, if I did something wrong to produce this gap.

A patch from the opposite side is good idea. Will try to to it that way.

The screen rubber just clears over that gap

Will the rubber even close a 2cm gap?

There is this saying: "90 % done - 90% to go"

Seems I'm just in the middle of if. And I must admit, I don't like it to much.

Much of the time is spend figguring out what to do next and how to do it. One problem is, by now my built has unfinished parts all over the chapters. This surely is my fault. I wish there would be a staight forward instruction book. But then the savannah comes from ICP and not from LEGO.

Some small issue I have is about the cabin frame. It sits way back in the opening of the skin. (1. picture is from the book)

Will this cause problems with the lexan windscreen? A gap perhaps?

Don't know what you mean?

From memory the dimensions are 18cm wide and high and 30 cm deep. It can't be longer because there is the ventilation outlet. I used just enough space from the instrument panel, like is already covered by an ordinary 10" android tablet.

Little progress lately. We have summer hollidays.

After a longer periode of reading, thinking and messuering, I drilled and rivited the cabin frame. I had great respect for his part, because I wanted to do it right. The cabin frame surery is an expensiv part to ruin by haste. So I took my time...

Second project was / is the glovebox. I put it together using some spare aluminium from the tank covers. It will be hidden behind a flap ( door ) with a 10" tablet on it. Left and right will be rather small instrument panels. As advised I ordered a MGL Stratomaster Efis and XADC SP-6 and -7. This will save much space.

It comes the time to think about color.

The picture showes how I would like it to be, if I can make it.

ICP is doing the paint job on the fully assembled plane, I was told.

From what I have seen on your builts, you are not. May sound stupid. But....

What is the best time for painting?

Hi AllI am at the stage of fitting the cabin frame and the manual calls for the diagonals to be within +/_ 5 mm in dimensions Greg told me this is pretty critical for when the wings go on it affects the wing to tailplane distance and I think the max allowable is 30mm at either end the closer you can get these to be the same the better so I spent most of today getting these sorted. You will see in the pics I have 4 sets of vise grips holding pins exactly over the wing mounting holes on the front and rear and you measure across these for the diagonals distance. Once you get this setup with the jigs at the side holding the front wing mount then you drill the alu tubes in their mounted position and cleo them all. But before you can do this you need to fit the engine mount so you get the mounting holes in the right place for the front V bars that come from the cabin frame that mount to the top mount of the engine mount you can see in the pics that it becomes one nice solid area for the engine to be braced to.

Dont know if it helps. But there is no such part in the manual or sparepart list of the Savannah-S

There was this talking about not drilling the wheels but using tubes with 90deg. stem and condor and...

Could I use simple tubes with 90deg. and the provided tyres. Or do I misunderstand the hole topic?

I would buy something like that:

Amazon.com: Stens 170-054 Tube, Replaces Carlisle: 3202900, Tubesize: 15-6-6, 15-6.00-6, 15x6.00-6, 15x6.00x6, 15x6x6, Stem Angle Type: 90 Degrees/TR87: Industrial & Scientific

Did you have any issues fitted the tyres that ICP supplied. I have just dug out the ones in my kit and they are the same as yours. I didn't order the 6.00x6 they were in the box. I was going to upgrade to the Condors but don't know if I will now.

Tefzel is made for aircraft. It has tinned copper wire inside the insulation is much tougher than auto wire and less prone to cracking also is much more fire resistantIts also more expensive but just far better wire

I'm kind of looking for the Do's and Dont's....

For instance? Can the body of an alloy plane be used as ground wire?

Is soldering and shrink tube o.k.? If NO.... not even for sensor cables on D25 connectors?

....

Yup, they are called "-Map holders" in the options list, you can retrofit them, its €100, they are really nice since they cover up the rudder cables and wires.

Perhapes someone has more photos?

A cup holder seems usefull to.

made my own from Tefzel wire not crappy auto wire

What to hold against automotive grade cables?

then I can sit in them when I need inspiration while I'm trying to decipher the manual.

Well, thats a lot of stuff.

I found it helpful, to put the larger skins into a cardboard envelope an put them on the wall.

How do you like the seats? Would you spend 950 dollar, if you had to buy them seperatly?