The INland Sea

[Coop]

G'Day Folks,

 

Sending this from Arkaroola. Have just completed an excursion to Innamincka to examine the floods. Boy, what floods! You would not believe the amount of water spread out over the country between lake Blanche and innamincka. There's a Partenavia stranded at Merty Merty because the runway is under water. Could be there for months. THe Strezlecki creek looks like the river Murray and where it crosses the track you can see rapids! Lake Blanche is nearly full and it will probably overflow into lake Calabonna before long. Get your machines out of the hangar and get up here and see it- you won;t see a flood like this again for another 100 years!!

 

There were places on the trip where we thought we should have brought our life jackets!! We didn't bother to try to see Coongie lakes because you need a GPS to find the location- it's all one huge lake spread out for miles around. Moomba is isolated except by air, and there's only one way in to Innamincka- cars only, no trucks. They are rationing their fruit and veggies!

 

Get here soon. There is fuel at Arkaroola from a bowser, or fuel at Broken Hill. Mogas available at Innamincka- straight unleaded only, no Premium.

 

This should not be missed. THe old explorers were talking about an inland sea- this is what they were looking for!!

 

A more complete report with pictures that will amaze you later. Cooper Creek is 8 metres high, and was 11 metres. The Nappa Merrie bridge has been demolished at one end and the Nappa Merrie airstrip is also under water.

 

The folks at arkaroola are very hospitable, and the folks at Innamincke are fighting each other for the few customers that fly in- you can expect to be oicked up at the airfield (half a kilometer from the pub) as soon as you turn up.

 

If you can spare the time- don't miss this!!

 

Coop

 

 

[Scottw]

G'day Coop

 

And thanks for the trip report. It sounds pretty spectacular.

 

Regards

 

Scott

 

 

[Coop]

The Easter weekend has always been a favourite time for us to fly to Arkaroola. The weather is usually benign, and the Village is usually less crowded because it’s a little too far to drive for many people. However, this year was special because we had been there in October last year when the area was still suffering under severe drought conditions, and since then there had been significant rain. On top of that, the floods in Queensland and NSW had sent a great deal of water down the Cooper, and the floods around Innamincka and further north were reputed to be the largest for a great many years. We figured this would be worth seeing. We weren’t disappointed.

 

Preparation is the key to safe flying, and the Navigator took this photo the night before we left showing yours truly extracting information from the AOPA Airfield Directory about likely landing spots.

 

 

I like to have information like field elevation, runway directions and lengths written on my flight plan, and the coordinates entered into our GPS, for all known airfields along our route. If the mechanicals begin to sound doubtful, I can hit “Go To Nrst” on the keypad and head for the closest airfield without having to fumble through the ERSA for the details (which might not be there, anyway).

 

We planned for an early start, and the weather nearly got in the way, with fog at the airfield when we arrived.

 

 

Luckily it had cleared by the time we were ready, and apart from a few patches in the valleys, it was clear by the time we were on our way.

 

 

Early morning aviation has its own rewards, and the views from the cockpit are often spectacular. As the Flinders ranges began to appear to our left, the low angle of the light gave a spectacular “Blue Hills” appearance. The air was cool and completely smooth, and we had the benefit of a tail wind of about 5 knots. Flying doesn’t get much better than this.

 

 

During the run to Yunta, our first refuelling point, signs of the recent rains began to become apparent- many of the watercourses which had been brown dusty streaks across the country only a few months ago were now lush and green, with large areas covered in green grass.

 

 

In places the entire country appeared to have a tinge of green.

 

 

However, there were still areas which the rain had missed, or where the winds had blown all the topsoil and seeds away.

 

 

After morning tea at Yunta and the chore of lugging jerries of fuel to the aircraft (we said last time we would bring our luggage trolley- and we forgot) we were glad to get airborne again. Dorothy was running like clockwork, the air was still smooth, and the ground was rolling by at a pleasing rate.

 

Lake Frome soon rolled into view, with patches of water showing on its surface, in stark contrast to the dry, cracked surface that confronted us last October.

 

 

During the last fifty miles the country was showing a green tinge over its entire surface, with dark green outlining the frequent watercourses.

 

The final approach to Arkaroola was to a runway surrounded by green foliage, instead of the rocky red vista that usually surrounds this strip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was clear that the rain had had a profound impact on the country, and that the local flora and fauna were taking full advantage of the bonanza before the country reverted to its usual dry and dusty state.

 

 

 

Brendan, a local Adnyamathanha man, responded to our radio call overhead the Village and soon arrived to collect us and our luggage. He told us the floods further north were reported to be the highest for about 100 years, and he was keen to see them himself. We were soon settled into our accommodation, gobbled down some lunch provided by the staff even though the kitchen had closed (they try hard at Arkaroola), and decided to go for a short stroll up to the Astronomical observatory which provides a view over the Village. Looking north towards Mount Painter, the quantity of new vegetation became apparent- the area in front of the Navigator was previously almost bare red rock.

 

 

The seeds had just been waiting for rain.

 

On the way back to the Village we encountered a small pond in a creek bed which we decided to explore. As we approached it we realised it was seething with life. Scores of little frogs hopped away as we walked alongside the edge- I was able to trap one with my hat, much to the Navigator’s amusement. She thought I looked like Mal from the “Leyland Brothers”, but she was able to suppress her laughter long enough to get the photo….

 

 

The water was covered with little flies (so the little frogs were all fat),

 

 

and dragonflies zipped back and forth across the surface.

 

 

The pond was obviously shrinking, so the denizens were being concentrated into a progressively smaller area. We saw more of them elsewhere, but not in the same concentration as here.

 

The following day we took a self-drive tour to Stubb’s Waterhole and Paralana Hot Springs. We wanted photos of Stubbs to send to our colleagues in Europe to compare with the ones they took when they were here last October, and we decided to go on to Paralana because we’d not seen it before. The old Toyota Land Cruiser ute that we hired for the day had very rattly doors which we solved by closing them on empty water bottles! The trip was an adventure in itself, with many sections of the track having been roughly repaired since the rains and needing to be traversed slowly with care. Where there are frogs, of course, you will find snakes, and this fine specimen crossed our path on the way out from the Village.

 

 

At the hot springs we encountered a somewhat prickly character going about his business unconcerned about camera-toting tourists.

 

 

We’ve never come to Arkaroola without encountering wildlife, but the nice thing about Arkaroola is that most of the people who go there aren’t interested in “Wild Life”, so you can always get a good night’s sleep.

 

Which was important, because we planned an early start the following day in order to fly to Innamincka and back. Doug Sprigg obligingly got up early and provided us with weather and a ride to the airstrip. The sunrise was spectacular.

 

 

The previous evening we met David and his wife. They had arrived in a C172 and decided to join us on the trip to Innamincka the following day. They ultimately decided to leave later than us, so we had the sky to ourselves that morning.

 

The first surprise was Lake Blanche- it appeared to be full of water!

 

 

And the Strzelecki creek was no creek- it was as big as the Murray River (and about the same colour).

 

 

At the Strzelecki crossing we could see the water pouring across the causeway and it looked as if it had been washed out in places.

 

 

There were trucks parked on both sides waiting for the crossing to become passable again. They’ll be there a while…..

 

Up ahead, it looked like the entire country was awash. At this stage we decided to divert from our direct course and follow the Strzelecki Track towards Moomba. It was obvious that almost all of the clay pans that we might use in an emergency were either wet or under water, so we kept the track as our backup. The further north we went, the more water we saw. Moomba had big lakes to the north and the east, and many of their well heads won’t be serviced unless they use a boat!

 

 

And air transport will be the only way into and out of Moomba for quite a while.

 

 

About 10 miles from Moomba we turned NE for Innamincka, and from here on we were flying across ground that was about 50% covered in water.

 

 

No wonder some of the early explorers thought they’d found an inland sea! I was last up here in 2000, and the Cooper was in flood then, but it was nothing like this- the Strzelecki Creek was dry then.

 

 

 

As we approached Innamincka we could see that the Cooper had overflowed into the Strzelecki creek.

 

 

And while the Cooper was clearly the source of much of the water spread around the place, the green tinge alongside the Innamincka strip told of recent heavy rains here also.

 

 

By the time we had taxied back from the landing, a 4WD had arrived and was waiting to take us down to the pub. While consuming our lemon squashes, the barmaid showed us some shots of the Nappa Merrie bridge under water and, after the water had receded somewhat, showing one end of the bridge collapsed and the approaches severely washed out. This bridge won’t be open again for months. Then we walked down the road to the causeway over Cooper’s Creek. We got as far as the “End 60” sign before being stopped by the soft mud at the water’s edge.

 

 

From here, we couldn’t see the other side of the crossing, and the water had been about two metres higher. Consider this photo, and then try to imagine another two metres of water above what you can see, and it will give you some inkling of the amount of water coming down Cooper’s Creek when the flood peaked! When we were there the level was about 8.3 metres, and had been as high as 11 metres.

 

We had lunch at the premises of Julie and Geoff Matthews’ Homestay- they were friends of Doug Sprigg and made as very welcome. The frogs were just as prolific at Innamincka as at Arkaroola, and had a queer habit of lining up nose-to-tail in Julie’s Aloe Vera pot plants.

 

 

David and his wife arrived a little later in their C172, and were equally as impressed by the state of the countryside. Using Julie’s massive 4WD, we ferried two loads of unleaded fuel to the strip so that both David and I could top up our tanks.

 

 

On the way back for the second load, we stopped to photograph one of the signs giving information on track conditions, which really said all that needed to be said…..

 

 

We said goodbye to Julie (Geoff had left earlier to drive to Tibooburra- now open to 4WD vehicles- to pick up some needed supplies), and David and his wife, and took off for the trip back to Arkaroola. David was heading for Broken Hill, intending to overnight there before heading home.

 

We decided to abandon caution and take the direct route back to Arkaroola, although we climbed to 4,500’ to give us more choice of landing places. One thing was for certain- if we did land out we certainly wouldn’t die of thirst!!

 

Overhead Merty Merty we spotted the strip- which was suitable only for floatplanes- and at the northern end was what looked like a Partenavia which had been pulled up onto high ground. It’ll be there for a while yet….

 

 

 

The autopilot took over to give me a rest from flying on the way home.

 

 

Approaching Arkaroola we passed the Beverley uranium mine where we could see the pipes for their leaching process spread out over the landscape.

 

 

The hills were thrown into relief by the lowering sun, and we were pleased to be back at the end of a fairly long and interesting day.

 

 

The following morning we watched all the 4WD travellers leaving early for their long drive home while we took our time over a leisurely breakfast. We climbed out of Arkaroola strip at about 10:30am, and rejoiced in the 10 knot tailwind that whisked us southwards at over 100 knots. The Navigator took a shot of the Balcanoona strip- a good alternate if you decide to fly to Arkaroola and find the home strip too short or conditions (like a strong westerly) too difficult. The folks at Arkaroola will collect you from Balcanoona if necessary.

 

 

At Yunta I had to use about half power to drive Dorothy down onto the strip because the wind had picked up to about 20 knots at ground level. The run south had been so quick that we only needed one jerry of fuel to give us adequate margins, so the lack of the trolley wasn’t so keenly felt. Lunch at the Yunta roadhouse was scrambled eggs on toast while we watched the TV news and learned of the coal carrier that had run aground on the Great Barrier Reef only 12 miles from where it was supposed to be. Don’t these guys have GPS?

 

By the time we left Yunta the thermals had reached our level, and we bobbled around in the light turbulence all the way home. There were times where Dorothy gained 500’ of altitude without any change in attitude or power setting, and there were times when she would lose just as much in spite of a higher nose attitude and a slight increase in power. Eventually I twigged that we were running through a standing wave pattern lying directly across our path- hence the regular rising and descending. I also noted that Dorothy’s engine note seemed a little less even over the last leg. As we went further south the wind at our level seemed to ease off and we slowed to about 95 knots or so during the last hour. But at our home base the wind chose to strengthen to about 20 knots and aimed itself in a direction bisecting the two runways- typical!!. With lots of stick waving and throttle jiggling I was able to manage a passable landing in the strong crosswind and taxied up to the shed. Before shutting down I did my usual magneto check, and found Dorothy running like a chaffcutter with the right magneto off. After unloading, the Navigator held the controls and brakes while I started Dorothy again, and with the right magneto off I carefully placed my hand under each exhaust pipe in turn. It was immediately obvious that the number one exhaust stack was just pumping cold air, so that plug would have to be changed.

 

We pushed Dorothy into the hangar and the Navigator recorded me performing the somewhat messy job of draining the oil prior to an oil change.

 

 

I’ll have to get the service done soon- we are off to Griffiths in a couple of weeks for the AAAA annual rally.

 

If you want to fly in and see what the centre of Australia looks like when it really floods, go now- you probably won’t get another chance like this for 100 years!

 

Coop

 

 

[siznaudin]

Excellent stuff, Coop - thanks for burning the midnight oil to get these images up (& thanks too, Glenn!) - can't wait to see the rest of the trip. I spent around 20 years up in that N.E. corner of S.A. and S.W. Qld, and I almost (only almost!) wish I were still up there at the employer's expense to see it all. Well done!

 

 

[Coop]

OK, with some guidance from Glenn (thanks Glenn) I've figured out how to make the text and photos behave, and I've edited the original post so now you can read the entire story.

 

Those of you with aeroplanes will kick yourselves if you don't take the opportunity to get up north and see this spectacle.

 

Regards

 

Coop

 

 

[Coop]

Just saw an item on the Channel 7 News about the floods up north, but remember, you saw it first on The Aussie Aviator!!:tongue:

 

Coop

 

 

[zenonie]

What a great yarn and terrific pictures too!! Thanks for sharing it with us Coop. I live at Kilcowera Station in SW Qld, 100 k's south of Thargomindah and we also had floods all over our shire. Here at Kilcowera we had terrific rain and local flooding which has all gone now leaving our dams, lagoons and waterholes full. The big salt Lake Wyara has lots of water in it now and thousands of pelicans are back for a bumper breeding season.

 

We are hoping for a good year for tourists visiting us here at Kilcowera. As long as some roads stay open. We also get people flying in to see us and we have just bought a small bus to enable us to pick up visitors from Thargomindah or Hungerford if they fly in in a bigger plane than our airstrips can handle. Cheers zenonie

 

 

[MrH]

Great stuff Coop, thanks for sharing:smile:

 

H

 

 

[TAA Qwerty]

Thanks Coop, I plan to be up there in a bout 10 days time to do some photograpy, I am looking forward to it more than ever now. I'll let you know how I go.

 

 

[Coop]

That's great Querty, I'd love to know how the water has moved on. In particular whether Lake Blanche has begun overflowing into Lake Callabonna. Folks at Innamincka told us there was apparently another surge coming down Cooper's Creek, so it will be interesting to see if the water level lifts at their crossing- it was 8.3 metres when we were there.

 

I guess much of the water going down the Cooper will be heading for Lake Eyre by now.

 

Safe flying and have a great trip- look forward to a further report from the Inland Sea,

 

Regards

 

Coop

 

 

[Guest Darren Masters]

Coop, amazing story and pictures as always. Thanks for sharing Parts of Australia really do have a certain beauty about them. Always have had a soft spot for the outback.