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Skykid

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Guest basscheffers

Thanks for the compliments guys! The airshow bit was a little easier to shoot as most of the planes were larger and often more than one in the frame - for the little buggers in the air race you really need 600mm and preferably 1200!

 

Yenn: lots of eBay sellers in the US sell new DIY sealing kits for all sorts of cameras, I am sure you will find one for your FT2 - assuming the seals are the issue.

 

There is not much between the main brands unless you get to the extremes; a 5D or 1Ds is perfect for fashion shooters and landscapers with their enormous file sizes. But many nature (animals, including small birds) photographers would rather have the 12MP Nikon D3 because of the 9fps frame rate and virtually noise-free 1600+ ISO shots - a combination crucial for shooting the fast little movers at dawn or dusk.

 

For those of us that do a bit of everything (so probably all of us here!) any system will yield virtually equal results and the lenses are always the most important bit. Aside from the traditional big brands, Pentax and Sony make some very nice cameras too.

 

I shoot an Olympus E-3, by the way. All the photos in from Perth were taken with the 50-200/2.8-3.5; an incredible lens on par with Canon or Nikon's 70-200 lenses. Of course on the Olympus body it yields the same field of view as a 400mm on a 35mm camera - without the weight or cost! (the downside is that I could easily rent a Canon 600mm for the next air race, but nobody hires out Olympus lenses...)

 

But at the end of the day - it is all about the person using it and making the most of what you got. If I swapped all my gear with my mum for her Panasonic point-and-shoot I would still come back with the better pictures! ;)

 

 

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I can see why so many of us dabble in photography as well. Aviation and photography both have intricacies that only those who are truly passionate about will enjoy.

 

Furthermore, it's easy to get sucked into either world and end up with gigantic holes in your pockets.

 

 

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My biggest hassle with photography is that I cannot use the SLR in the Corby. There just is not enough room and also the canopy distorts colour on the few times that I did try it. I can use the point and shoot Fuji though

 

 

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Guest basscheffers

Nothing that Anthony Fokker couldn't solve for you! Simply mount the SLR on the nose, looking throught the propeller and fabricate an interruptor gear that only fires the shutter when no blades are in the way.

 

The simply point your aircraft at what you want to photograph and pull the stick mounted trigger!

 

One day when my instructors set me loose I'll have a go at trying to photograph through the Sporty's air vent. I recon it's big enough and using the live view with the LCD tilted up, I might even be able to frame things OK.

 

 

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No need for the interruptor gear... If you work with a shutter no faster than 1/125sec you wont see the fan blades.

 

About 1/500 has them blurred, which is prefect for shots where you want the appearance of motion. 1/1000 and above freezes them, so they look, well, frozen... and is not a natural look for a flying machine off the ground.

 

The advantage of a slower shutter is there is less focus error (depth of field stuff).

 

Experiment with various focal lengths, but the best shots will be from the wide end of your stuff.

 

Ben

 

 

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125th

 

Thats invaluable info Ben re the props blur, 125th is the go then.

 

All my skydiving stuff was at minimum 500th sec , no props in the way there though.

 

1_Jet_powered_canard._300kts_.jpg

 

This velocity at Oshkosh was mad! A jet engine attached and they are racing these now.

 

Cheers

 

 

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Guest basscheffers

Let's be pedantic about the shutter speed required for a full blur! ;)

 

Say you are running 2500 RPM, that is about 42 revolutions per second. So the get a full rotation in your image, 1/40th of a second is needed. But really, you only need one blade to pass through the entire frame of view, so on a two blade prop, 1/80th or slower will give you a nice blur and for a three blade, 1/125th will do it.

 

Of course the slower you go, the nicer and more even the blur, but it brings other issues - mostly to do with vibration. So go slow, but not too slow - especially with longer lenses.

 

Well, that's my theory anyway, now I'll have to find a time to go and actually try this in an aircraft! :big_grin:

 

 

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Basscheffers: Just wanted to nice photos man! Also yeah good point about the vibration would be hard to over come.

 

Skydog: You should try and post some of your skydiving photos up 010_chuffed.gif.c2575b31dcd1e7cce10574d86ccb2d9d.gif

 

Ben longden: I agree the best way is just to get out of there and have fun.

 

I got a mate who is trying to put some of my better photos on a disk (a freind of a friend thing) so hopefuly I'll have some up soon.

 

Thanks

 

H :yin_yan:

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Good one Skykid

 

Nice shots you are obviously into nature Skykid.

 

Where is the strip at Gisborne is it just near Mt Gisborne on the sth side, I may have seen it on the way north from Melton.

 

Always liked the Grumman too.

 

 

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how do you do that attached thumbnails etc.

If you clicked on the "Quick" reply, you will need to go to "Advanced" down the bottom next to the submit reply thingy...

 

Or you can just press the "post reply" one on the bottom left hand corner of the post...

 

Then up the top where you can change your different fonts...etc... you move along to the right, and its just next to the smiley face... Looks like a paper clip... click on that, and yeah... just follow your nose from there and It should work:thumb_up:

 

Hope that helps...

 

 

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See if I can do this what would appear a rather simple task :thumb_up:

 

Shots from the Amberley Air Show 2008 I took. Canon Eos 3 digital with a standard zoom lens. Would kill for a lens with a longer focal length.

 

Cheers,

 

Shags

 

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