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Lightwing 582

Guest John Simpson

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Guest John Simpson

Good people, I have just purchaseda Lightwing 582 in exceptionally good condition and would like to hear from any other owners who run similiar machineswho could pass on any advice to keep the 582 running reliably. Fuel consumption may be a problem for longer trips, how do I manage that? How do I obtain unleaded fuel at various landing fields?Any info about auxilary tanks?


And finally do any of you fly in the central Qld area (Emerald), I'm keen to join a couple of other aircraft for a trip somewhere.





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Congratulations! ;)


Not the fastest ultralight in the world, but a great all round aircraft.


Some tips for operating GR-582's.


If you are using as a trainer, I can't suggest the following for legal reasons, but if it's yours to play with, try this;


Get a three blade composite prop, 'Brolga', 'Warp Drive' or 'Bolly' and make sure it's well balanced.


This will increase engine and airframe life significantly.


Run a 3:1 'C' box if possible, or an 'E' box if it will fit, this will extend crank shaft life.


Avoid letting the engine idle in the 'four stroke' mode, we find ours will run smooth at around 3,000rpm on the ground, however don't adjust your thottle stop to that rpm, or you'll never be able to land!! 006_laugh.gif.0f7b82c13a0ec29502c5fb56c616f069.gif


We are running two LightWings, a two stroke and a four stroke.


The four stroke runs best on Premium Unleaded, so the two stroke gets it too, runs great.


Our 582 is oil injected and we have just started using Castrol TTS (synthetic), so far so good.


For long range work, get a plastic Jerry can (black) plumb into it some lines with outboard disconnect fittings, put a facet boost pump in line powered by a cigarette jack with switch somewhere and either 'T' branch into one of the the fuel lines up near the tank or use a self sealing fittiing fitted directly into a tank.


Stick the Jerry can in the baggage tray behind the seat (if you have the moulded glass seats!) but do not rest on the tray, suspend the Jerry can by a strap from the rear spar cross member.


A good old fashioned wide leather belt works well.


Enjoy, 011_clap.gif.c796ec930025ef6b94efb6b089d30b16.gif





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To save on using a pump to transfer from a jerry can to the main tank you can run a pipe from the tank air vent into the jerry can with a flop tube to keep it below the surface, and run a vent line from the jerry can up to above fuel tank level.


The reduction in pressure in the main tank daws fuel from the jerry can. I have used this method and got 18 of the 20 l in the jerry can.



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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Hey, G'day John.


Sorry I missed this thread ?


Balancing props...... if you have a standard two blade wood prop, you first need to check for imbalance, then correct where required.


To check, find a shaft that will fit neatly through the centre hole in the prop's hub.


Arrange to have two parrallel edges running perfectly horizontal (use a spirit level) with enough space to rest the prop between with the shaft running on said edges.


It will now become obvious which is the heavy blade.


To balance, determine the amount of imbalance;


With the prop on the balancing 'blades', rest a piece of A4 paper on the light (high) blade.


If this is enough to balance or even over balance the prop, lightly sand (400 grit max) the back of the light blade and apply a coat or two of polyurethane clear paint, remeber, the paint will lose weight as it dries.


Remeber, we are talking grams here.


If a sheet of paper is not enough to come to balance, check your blade lengths from centre, then measure the width of the tips of the prop.


If nothing obvious shows up here, a bit more work may be required to balance the prop.


Also check if equal amounts of blade tape if fitted!


If more than three sheets of paper are required, we need to look at the heavy blade.


Remove blade tape if fitted (don't lose!) then begin to sand the back of the heavy blade, probably with an orbital sander using about 120 grit, in the tip area.


Be careful near the trailing edge to not thin the blade less than about 1.0m/m.


Recheck for balance regularly by setting the prop back on the parrallel blades, drape the blade tape (if applicable) along the blade, as well as a piece of paper to make up for the paint to be added on completion.


Finish sand with about 400 grit before adding first coat of paint, allow to dry, then gently sand the 'hairy' finish with 600~800 before next coat.


Once dried, check balance with old blade tape draped, sand or add paint as required, apply new blade tape.


If the prop has been fibreglassed, this will require a bit more work!!




C'mon Ian, sometimes I need a bit more than 30 minutes to create a reply, what with reseach and dinner.



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