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spenaroo

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Posts posted by spenaroo

  1. 8 hours ago, Area-51 said:

    If scuba divers pee in their wetsuits, then it must be ok to pee in a flight suit!! 🤷🏼‍♂️
     

    I don't have a flight suit; somebody that does will have to take one for the team and report back with results.

    oh you just reminded me of the Astronaut who got arrested,

    after driving 14 hours in a nappy to confront her lovers new partner

  2. The way I see it Skippydiesel.
    You have an assumption that price is a large component of the deciding factor - I put more importance on convenience and least risk.
    Matching specifications and parts, and finding cheaper alternatives for customers was what I did for a living the last decade.
    And I was good enough to have been repeatedly head hunted.

     

    I don't shop for fuel on price, I value my time and energy as being more valuable then what I see as a $3 saving once a fortnight.

    (5c a liter, on a 60L tank is only $3) I refuel when needed at the most convenient BP or United (personal preference, found shell gave running issues in some motorcycles). oh and for future reference only 91 and 95 has a fuel standard in Australia, 98 just has to meet 95 standards

     

    I don't Disagree with your thoughts, 
    but I have different thoughts on the issue

     

    why do I stick to OEM parts on the Ducati and VW,

    because its guaranteed and reliable - it fits, it works, it is correct. there is no questions, no delays

    its peace of mind. more then willing to pay that bit extra to not think about it.
    this is especially important to me with something like a timing belt that its tried and tested.

     

    this peace of mind is more importance to me then risking an aftermarket alternative.

    I have seem too many special cases. I agree in the vast majority of times simply getting an equivalent of the same specification will work.

    but I have personally seen enough of these outliers and the damage they caused over a decade of being a workshop parts person.
    That I personally will not take the risk on a vehicle that I hold in high value. I would rather pay the premium to know its all just going to work.

    I've had too much pain with aftermarket manufacturers catalogue's being incorrect with fitments. inaccuracies in models and years, or just flat out wrong.
    dealt with enough returns and delays.

     

    further to this I gave you the example of the oil and coolant where the specifications are not necessarily the whole story.
    Ducati used certain materials in the heads of the 1198 motors, that reacted with existing coolant. they had AGIP make a coolant for them to combat this (after it was an issue - they were fitting replacement heads for a while - they originally used a shell coolant)

    now you can use a coolant that has the same rating - like the original shell product. but that doesn't guarantee it uses the same additives to achieve that rating.
    very easy to go online and check the specification that coolant lists as meeting (now Ducati specify the lubricants by product not specification, so only the ones used in the factory are in the manuals - not a minimum spec). but that just shows the industry standards it meets for performance not representative of additive packages (here is that 98 Fuel example again - as long as it meets 95, you can add as much detergents as you like)

     

    same with the oil. I Highly recommend Motul to everyone, in my opinion it is the best motorcycle oil - just don't use it in a Ducati.
    both it and the Recommended Shell advanced ultra meet the JASO MA2 specification and are 15W50.
    but still every Ducati I saw that had main bearing issues used Motul, and never saw any of those issues from the bikes running Shell (yet I don't use any other shell product)
    P.S. 2000's model Suzuki's would slip the clutch if fully synthetic oils were used - just another example of these idiosycracies

    and then you have items like clutch discs, brake pads, brake discs, seals - for which there is no industry specification.
    some of these are better then OEM, some much worse. sticking to OEM is the safest bet.


    The Vstrom, despite it being a newer bike. like you I prefer the cheaper alternatives because I just don't care as much. if it has an issue its of lower personal value (Ducati has sentimental attachment).
    I can afford to write it off as a worst case. Its far easier for me to walk into my local shop and get a K&N then to drive to a Suzuki Dealer. Happy to experiment with performance of parts on it too.

    same with the Midget, I can afford for it to be off the road, The Amorok I can't its my daily drive.

    I feel like an airplane engine is the last place I would try to save a buck. I'm not confident enough that if it goes Bang I wont get injured
    it doesn't align with my personal risk assessment. but obviously yours is different

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  3. 15 hours ago, skippydiesel said:

    What I'm trying to do here is show you that marketing/sales is as much about phycology as delivering a quality product.

     

    It's a fact that much of what goes into a Rotax, is derived from the automotive world (scale of production keeping the price down) BUT because its an aircraft engine and  a premium price can be asked (& received).

     

    This would be fair enough, if the part is really a low volume item of unique specification to Rotax  BUt all too often this has been shown not to be the case.

     

    I would think it highly likely that Spaneroo is demonstrating how the psychology works (no offence intended)

    I think we have very different mentalities when it comes to servicing.

    I treat different vehicles differently. believe it or not more expensive and higher performance usually means more care is needed with different tolerances.


    My Amarok for example gets a high quality oil - as it has to be a specific oil grade to work properly in the VW engine.
    properly expensive stuff but I haven't had any issues.

    My Ducati gets only genuine parts used and shell oil. it is sensitive to oil in the main bearings and the belts will grenade the engine if they go wrong.
    I know from my time in the dealership that if a certain popular brand of oil  - even with the same viscosity is used then it cause the bearing to skid instead of roll.

    (another fun Ducati fact, wrong coolant will corrode the heads)
     

    My Vstrom gets aftermarket K&N filters (nut on the end easy to remove) and quality aftermarket oil (funnily enough the same brand the Ducati doesn't like, is loved by the Jap bikes).

    the Midget gets a reputable brand filter and basic mineral based oil - not used enough to hit a service interval. but still changed every 12 months

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  4.  

    here are some examples I found on the net of oil filter crushing,
    both are from Rotax powered sea-doo's (the ones I physically witnessed were in this application)
    easy to see as this is a cartridge type instead of a spin on, where it would be hidden by the outer case.

    still see the same damage with spin on's as the inside wall collapses - but harder to photograph


    this is the oil system - risking major engine damage if anything goes wrong. for what a $10 saving?

    will never understand why people cheap out in this area

     

    Oil Filter Crushed - Greenhulk Personal Watercraft Performance Forums

    image.jpeg.0286db09170170641cd59e112651438d.jpeg

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  5. The bypass valves and the micron rating on the filter medium make a big difference.
    seen a few engines come in with a collapsed oil filter from the pressure - used to have some pictures on an old hard drive - very impressive to see the crush damage.
    A workshop I used to work for had a motor destroyed by a reputable aftermarket filters with the wrong flow control valve- the filter company covered the repair from memory.

    had to be careful with the Harley-Davidson filters.
    the old evo filters and the twin-cam filter were identical looking. but they had different Micron levels in the filter medium (Evo was 10 micron, TC was 5 micron).
    could use the new twin cam filter on an older Evo, but couldn't go the other way from memory.

    • Like 1
  6. On 29/08/2023 at 11:54 AM, facthunter said:

    There's a metric thread called ISO if I remember correctly, used on Japanese Motorcycles. The Imp and US cycle threads. Whit and NF form and 26/20 tpi and 24/20 tpi respectively. That gives you the fine and coarse threads for various purposes. You'll also come across BSF whit  on Brit  bikes.and  NF  UNC on US bikes . Nev

    Japanese bikes use JIS

    Japanese industry standard.

    just slightly different - most notably in the smaller screws. best example is the front brake master cylinder.
    which is why they almost always strip out when people do their own services - without the JIS screwdrivers.

    • Informative 3
  7. 18 minutes ago, facthunter said:

    I'm not the only one questioning it. Just WHAT is a rotorcraft? A helicopter is rotary wing with lots of control. Just because clowns design such things doesn't mean pilots can fly them. History is filled with dud aeroplanes. Ones that didn't meet design Parameters or expectations.

    A rotorcraft or rotary-wing aircraft is a heavier-than-air aircraft with rotary wings or rotor blades, which generate lift by rotating around a vertical mast. Several rotor blades mounted on a single mast are referred to as a rotor. The International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO) defines a rotorcraft as "supported in flight by the reactions of the air on one or more rotors"

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