RFguy

yep, Lycoming can lean aggressively. 

also try      Litres/nm

that's easier  to calculate. the piper will do about 244mL/nm at 90 kts at sea level, or about  260mL/nm at 120 kts at 10k feet fully loaded
J230 will do about 230mL/nm at sea level, 115k.  212mL/nm at 6kfeet ~ 125k...  The J160 15/100 = 150mL/nm 

Your RV at 25 lph at 140 tas = IE 178mL/nm..... (really ?????) gather at 12k feet ?

Had a useful and constructive meeting with RAaus today.

There's also a 100% cover kit from Punkinhead at Yarrawonga. It's comprehensive. I have one for when I've had to occassionaly live outside for a few weeks. 

A quote I heard recently : You are paying for the cost of a hanger whether you are in a hangar or not. IE extra maintenance if you are not.

But a full cover can go a long way. 

Just was on the phone to a litigator friend of mine.

next steps

1)  thoroughly understand what the relationship is between RAAus  and CASA, and how it works, understand the legislation first.

and then choose a small number of items that , where  in my opinion RAAUS are not fulling their obligations under the act. 

and / or 

2) and consider making it a civil complaint against the aviation  company I am complaining about (that , IMO, RAAus are turning a blind eye to, or are simply not sufficiently competent to do meet the requirements under the act.) 

.  Incompetence leads to negligence, however whether they knew it was substandard or did not know, that's the messy bit. 

A bit can be drawn from the previous action. I'll take a look at exactly how and why CASA got involved. It's generally accepted that CASA's previous involvement was rather clumsy .

The RAAUS staff and board just does not take safety seriously, it's all a big front.

Yes SKippy, that is right- must go with some solutions, otherwise I will just be a whiner.

ahh well they've blown me off for tomorrow. disappointing.

I wrote to them detailing my concerns about the number of Jabiru fires a month ago, got NO reply, zero.....

So I wrote to them again, they set a meeting date, which I arranged to be in town for, and they've blown me off and 'will listen to my concerns by telephone'.

Not good enough.

Time to go to talk to CASA and bust their arses.

I have a face to face meeting at RAaus tomorrow. anyone want any questions asked ? PM me directly.

if you buy something NEW in a box, then you might cop 5% duty + 10% GST on entry

so dissing stuff out of all the packaging is one way to reduce that.  You might have bought it used, right ?

otherwsie for a fleamarket, it might cost $1 right ?

"Yes, the current enigines produced by these Japanese manufacturers are not ideal for aviation use (but they are close)."

why not ?

KG what are your  total  estimated servicing costs over 300,000 km ? just wondering

and EVs right now, with their pricey tags, owner's  expect they're not bottom row, are also at a luxury  'ghia' etc

Not the bottom line vehicle like a very cut down Hyundai Excel , there's no such thing as a Hyundai Excel rock bottom car  that's an EV...

On the aircraft. yeah. the 180hp Piper is good for going to see clients  (sometimes full to the brim with gear), family,  or crossing endless tiger country or water

however for going and seeing friends by myself regularly say 450nm, something like a old J160 costing 30k, wouldnt bother insuring it , and costing about 160mL/nm compared to 260 ml/h (best)... 
Which is why I am selling the J230. (halfway between the two requirements) 

Look.

1) electric cars are nice, but as highway cruisers they are marginal ROI . 

2) For city stop start folk that can use regenerative braking effectively, they are fantastic.

and they are price comparible with ICE cars as they havea small battery.
but

if we take the highway cruiser : 

The 50k electric car (with a 300km battery)  once youve done 300,000km in it  is going to have cost you $66,000 (electricity costs from the mains at night) . plus perhaps $500/year service (15 years) = 73.5k
The 30,000 hybrid car at 4.5l/100km is goign to be $27,000 in fuel at 300,000km, so $57,000

(plus alot more in servicing, say $1200/year x 15  = 18k  = 30+27+18 = 75k

But to be apples with apples for highway cruising, you really do need at least 450km range or a 65 ish kwh battery .. really you do.... so you really need the 65k electric car.  so you electric car is another 10 grand. 

this is all assuming you are not paying any sort of CO2 polluting tax If you have a massive solar array at home say 15kW   your electricity costs are goign to be much lower, eventually) payback time on investment not to be forgotten !

so....

Taking into account the cost of filling a battery at night from the mains.... and what it costs to run a hybrid

Battery costs at the moment essentially means that if you buy an  330km range electric, compared to a hybrid,  you are pre paying your first 12,500 litres of fuel, roughly prepaying your first 265,000 km in a hybrid ( 15 years ?) . 

given it costs about $5.50 per 100km for the electric (home charge) , over the same 265,000km of hybrid car, you are goign to fork out an additional $15000 of electricity. over 10-15 years, additional maintenance of the hybrid is likely to be about that in services compared to the electric.   of course at some point the battery will die !! and ten now the electric car is really, really expensive !!!!

So , small battery electric for city daily use makes good sense right now, but payback on the large battery EVs seems nonsense.

so, Toyota's strategy of the hybrid is good right now me thinks, just not explained to the publix or pundits
 

Are there more fuel selection  mishaps at night ? 

maybe too much A to B flying and not enough EP (emergency proceedure) practice.

I bring it  up because it sounds like good tech, and also because I understand it might have been involved in a experimental in flight fire -

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=689385833173694&set=a.439934824785464

the owner admits making  modifications to the engine  system that were ,  "not best practice" ... full credit to the pilot /owner  for owning up. 

and there are aftermarket hotrod kits also. IE hot it up (even more). Skido engines are usually very tough. 

Reading some forums, there are quite a few in experimental aircraft . People just buy a snowmobile and remove the engine....

https://www.snowtechmagazine.com/genesis998turbo/

I'm going to ping RAAUS about the GPS bit in the tech manual

Thruster88 is correct.

Certainly  (RAAUS) you can do all the tests yourself, rectify  unservicable items, then get the CAO 100.5 guy (I dont know any CAO100.5 women)  to come and measure it and sign it off.

This will minimize any hourly rate cost.

You cant use GPS to cal the barometric altimeter.....

unless you have calibrated and reliable barometer. But if you have one of those, you dont need the GPS. 

The GPS might be used for flying in a triangle to check the ASI.

Yeah a bit of wander after each post is normal. 

I did two flights yesterday, each  had the 1 landing as glide onto the grass from downwind (I did one in each direction)   with ~ 30 deg bank turns at last 90 to 150  deg of turning (requires a flying a hook)   flying 7 to 10 knots above best glide  (which is about 1.4x Vs) at 80-85 kts,  which gives me plenty of leeway above the no flap stall speed  for turns, (and brief distractions )  and only  costs 50  fpm approx extra sink rate . I find to judge the landing location well that doing rate 1 turns ~ 11deg AOB is not goign to be sufficiently tight , and it needs something like 25  to 35 deg (and steeper if necessary but you got to keep the nose down and fast) . So, I feel that the best glide speed is fine if all I have to do is fly straight ahead or through shallow turns (say getting myself back to the strip or some landing zone  from altitude ) 

yep. should be wired in Tefzel...... and restrained regularly.

AND the CDI packs should NOT be sandwiched together- the bottom one will run as hot as hell (and they fail)

put some washers on the screws between them so they are spaces at least 3mm

Rotax is good with mechanical stuff but they know F.A. about good electrical installs. 

-glen

Hi Keith

I'm not familiar with whatever a 'standard jabiru intercom ' is. I didnt think there was one.  Microair built in intercom is what I am used to seeing. 

But to deal with two radios 

1) You need a DPDT (double pole, double throw) switch to switch the PTT and microphone to the radio of interest. just switch active wires, no need to switch the grounds. 

2) for the radio audio output - two resistors in series down to a single wire should be OK, suggest 100 ohm , 1/2W resistors, in series with each output before the join. That will stop them interacting too much. .

I'd like to see rotax wiring and looms built with Tefzel and Mil27500 series shielded wire....etc  You can get multi colours in tefzel, also.  it's not all just white.