rhtrudder

Got the rubber wheel, clogged up pretty quick, because it’s under the wing makes it hard to soak it ,so far metho soaked rag and fingernails ,  been at it off and on for hours , about half way there, thanks everyone for the advice 

Where can I get a rubber stick 

Tried citrus also carby and brake cleaner , surely there’s something that would dissolve the glue but not the paint

WD40 is about the only thing I haven’t tried, what is isopropanol, tried all the paint thinners , metho, turps, acetone ,tried RP7 is that the same as WD 40,  my hand still sticks to it , driving me nuts 

Got the rego numbers, with a heat gun, removed from under the wing, now I’m stuck with the sticky glue residue left behind , tried everything to dissolve it , any ideas?

My trim indicator , series of leds , is showing out of range , gaps at the bottom , over full at the top, unsure how to adjust, something to do with the trim motor in the elevator I’m thinking , any ideas, thanks , Greg 

Mate just bought a jab with a microair radio, for some reason the display lights up when the avionics is switched on but no frequencies show up also when he turns off the knob on the set the display stays on ,the aircraft is new , any ideas

Thanks skip 

I wonder where Dick Smith stands on these changes 

Yep , did that, seemed ok, blasted off, all good, figured it must have been a stuck needle. 

Leaking internally, talked to wal, he seemed to think it was something caught under the needle or sinking floats, about to go flying always a worry when engine can get go you airborne and then starts to play up , not a lot of room to get back to my strip

Finally finished changing all the fuel lines and filters, went flying, engine started to run rough below 4500 , managed to get back on the ground where it stopped with fuel dripping from the exhaust, towed it back to the hanger , discovered the right side carby running fuel with the pumps on , pulled it apart can’t see anything fitted it back on, seemed ok , got it started , try again but noticed the fuel pressure above .6bar map gauge 40 on take off, unsure whether the fuel pressure is running to high and forcing fuel past the needle, so I put it back down again , wondering whether something ended up in the fuel system from the new lines and was keeping the seat open , 

14 hours ago, fallowdeer said:

“The 914 is a "altitude" or boosted engine; the manifold pressure goes over atmospheric pressure. As opposed to a "normalized" engine that tries to maintain sea-level manifold pressure.
-When the wastegate is closed the max amount of exhaust pressure routed into the turbo.
-When the wastegate is open the exhaust pressure is allowed to escape into the muffler.
-Even with the w/g fully open you will get some boost.
-the wastegate will be closed at idle. Strange but true: The TCU is trying to reach its target MAP and the w/g will be closed until it achieves this target.
-When the throttle is set to 115% the wastegate is fully closed until 40 InHg is reached.
If the cable is not adjusted correctly: too loose - the wastegate cannot close and you will lose manifold pressure.
If the servo/cable is not setup correctly (throttle closed/Master ON/allow servo to cycle/Master OFF/adjust w/g to fully closed position) then it is possible the servo cannot move and the warning light will flash.”

 

Rob Seaton, Rotax Owner’s Network

 

 

That’s how I understood it

Spot on

That’s how it all works , the carby bowls are sealed and the breathers are vented to the air box which pressurises the fuel in the bowls , gives it more fuel when running in the boost range

The fuel pressure has to be .25 of a bar over the air box pressure which is feed by the turbo , I bought the gauge years ago but never fitted it , it’s got the sender one side goes to fuel pressure, wet, the other to air pressure in the intake and the read out which goes to 7psi , yankee gauge, tells the fuel pressure above the air box pressure , not sure if I can t it into the balance pipe or fit it into the air box 

Trying to figure out whether i can plumb the differential gauge into the carby cross over tube with a T fitting or should it be getting it’s reading straight from the air box ,and then T the wet side of the senser into the fuel pressure gauge tube 

The spring type spread the pressure better, but I worry that they could loose their tension, my fuel lines are mostly inside the cab behind the panel last thing I want is a line coming off 

Next question, which are the best clamps to use on fuel hose, the spring ones you squeeze together and slide on then release or the plain old worm types which is what I have , 

Thanks for that, 

Fuel hose replacement due on my 914, any clues on which is the best 

Fitted up skyecho, all registered, turned on , send young bloke up and raced inside to see him on ozrunways  but not to be seen , could see other aircraft, what am I missing 

Since I removed the disc the vibs have gone, checked the carbs , all good

3 hours ago, skippydiesel said:

How disappointing - I fitted a BM,  after  getting my prop professio0nally dynamic balanced, so saw no change in vibration. My idea was, that it might just take care of any nasty stone chips in the future, allowing me to get home with minimal vibration - good idea (??) now in doubt.

Pretty sure the prop strike had nothing to do with it, been going on for months, sometimes it was good other times no so , I guess it depended where the weights ended up between flights, will cut it open and see what’s inside, I persevered not realising that was the cause but after fitting the new prop the penny dropped, I only just sold my dyna vibe figuring I didn’t need it 

Noticed my plane slowly developing a vibration over the last 6months , ended up replacing my prop, wheels up landing , and the vibs still there so I removed the plate and noticed it had a rattling sound which I didn’t think was there when I fitted it , now vibration has gone , if you have fitted one might pay to get a prop balance to check it out