jetjr

I am "told" it is the validity of the security check - 24 months - so to avoid running out renewing early is necessary. You have to redo security check anyway when you renew?

The kind of electric flap you describe is a pretty cheap attempt by Jab, they could have done better than that.

David

These flap servos arent cheap, They are also heavy and have the issues outlined above.

Id suggest they couldn't come up with a better solution or it isnt worth redesigning the aircraft to do it

Glad Im not the only whos had this happen

My oil cooler hose wore through sometime between start and take off, bit of oil smoke then lots, got to circuit height, pressure started to drop into yellow on downwind so shut down and did unpowered landing. Even had momemtum to get off ont taxiway

It dropped all the oil between takeoff and halfway downwind.

This was on my first solo Nav at Robinvale VIC. Managed to find new hose in town, borrowed some oil from another plane, cleaned up a bit and departed 3 hrs after first attempt. Still made it home before last light

Could have been much worse.

I dont know of panels which dont have coulour coded sections for critical data like oil pressure, most have number AND coloured limits. Basically if its in the green or operational range its OK

BUT as someone else said Id start diagnosing problem the second you saw it vary from normal. Your severity of response would be related to the size and speed of the change in reading and if the Oil Press change is backed up with other data.

Each engine will have its own varation but with relief valve should make them pretty static

What Flying dog said

I only use st 2 when I stuffed the approach and need to fall fast, other wise its 1 max for TO and landing

Both flaps are locked on same rod so cant really loose 1 side unles outside lever breaks off. Although Ive seen cracked ones from use doing too fast airspeed, but that would go to off rather than stuck on.

Jab can fly quite normally with stge 1 flap stuck on just slower. So seems to me just dont use st2 unless you have to - what if it jams or wont come off in a hurry. Other than this electric seems OK to me. With any failure its level of risk your talking about.

Your right re the bad shoulder, mine was sore for a while and it was hard to pull down flap lever. Particularly St 2 which needs lever pulled nearly vertical

Basic problem is flaps take a fair bit of leverage to pull on so without long lever movement its going to involve some muscle, control has to be in roof, so manual flap setup is pretty difficult to get right.

When somethings actually wrong Oil pressure usually falls fast ie seconds and temp will jump.

BUT if drops more steadily, when in yellow, be planning fast where your going to land, and be ready to shutdown.

Into Red, your already too late to shutdown without some damage, and its emergency time

Real issue is do you keep going when its falling but still in green. This has happened to me and I diverted to closest strip and kept going. Ended up flying for another hour or more to destination looking down the whole way.

Reason I did, being a slow loss like this is highly likely to be a crook sender which it was. Oil temps were OK which is a good second check of oil status. If oil levels drop it will get hot long before pressure drops.

This is just my opinion so please take it as that and make up your own mind

Ive got the manual type in a J200 - apart from being akward when your taller, handle is above your left ear. When carrying passenger you both have to lean to left to allow your arm room.

The only other issue I have is it relies on a detent pin fitting into hole to anchor its position

It can and does slip out with a large bang. This induces a serious seat cover gripping moment as flaps are released from st2 to Nil in half a second. Remember this happens on short finals requiring dramatic action to avoid crash

Its also easy to let flap off too fast, air pressure is pulling it out of your hand. Elect slows it down with gentler action. I agree for missed approach or T&G its an issue however, most landings are on Stg 1 flap anyway which is OK for T&G anyway

Im going to fit electric ....................... have had the kit for 2 years now but never seem to get around to it. So long as I conciously push and lock lever in place on St 2 its OK. Doesnt seem to slip from St1.

Regarding flap unit failure, its not hard to land without them.

I understand the problem, as its happened to me a few times - hornet in pitot

Was working OK, went and fuelled up headed back out, No ASI. Took all of 30 min for hornet to get enough mud in there to plug it up

You really can (and have to) be able to fly without it which you did. Few more hours and regular flying build confidence when things arent right.

In training I was taught the glide approach and its amazing how repeatable it is

Turn base, power right back to idle, trim right back and Jabs just glide in. I trim fwd late finals so theres more feel in the controls

Only adjustment is getting in the right spot to turn base

As Tomo said use horizon and ground speed. GPS speed could be really dangerous, with wind and reading delay involved.

Older heads dont have this hole

Headstud will be cooler

Not much room for another hole to be drilled

I spoke to Jabiru, they dont have any better ideas either

I have 6 CHT too and leaking is a pain - using detergent and looking for bubbles seems to be the only way to tell - other than High CHT readings

This is a frustrating problem as I dont know if Im chasing a real issue or poor CHT ring mounting

I have also read an article by an owner somewhere saying they cruise at around 130 too so not sure whats going on

US spec says 170mph cruise, 190 mph max -thats nearer 150kts isnt it?

http://www.flylightning.net/images/pdf/2009%20Price%20Sheet%20AB.pdf

Anyone know much about Arion Lightning?

Theres a few here

Looks nice, US specs show very fast too.

Ok, sounds good, do you mean cut the ring off and insert the "stub" or roll the ring to fit the hole

What about the heatshrink etc, leave it there?

Any chance of a photo, I cant picture the hole your talking about either

After watching high CHT on individual cylinders and recently putting in new plugs only to see high CHT patterns move!!!!

Not that serious, 180 deg on haul out then maybe 20deg higher than others in cruise.

Using detergent I tracked down the plugs are leaking just a little. Only on ones with CHT ring though.

Takes ages fiddling and testing to make sure they are sealed, tried putting the crush washer under CHT ring but doesnt help much

CHT rings supplied by Dynon, and I have 6x

How do I seal these reliably?

JR

J430 is a great plane, I was keen on doing one for a while.

Problems come when selling, in GA its always going to be experimental, and next owner basically looses benefits of catagory as it goes back to full LAME maint etcetc.

Leaves you with a very limited market to sell into and prices accordingly

Can always take back into RAA BUT its then a 19 regd 230 BUT then it only has 544kg MTOW

Might get a few more kg MTOW if new rules ever get past but never more than 600kgs due to max stall reqd.

You ll see 544kg is not enough for 2 pax and full fuel

RAA J230 LSA is only 2 seats but you have 600kg MTOW straight up and you can buy them ready to go from factory

J450 might be something to ask about, bit slower but better designed to take advantage of raised MTOW in RAA

If you are going to keep it for a long time go for 430

Nev, you are 100% correct BUT someone flying an EX RAA regd AC is taking advantages all us others have paid for and are fighting to keep

We should encourage them to pay thier way

Let alone if this guy taxis/flys into your Aircraft, its your problem as he wont have insurance of any sort.

Id reckon there arent many who just stay in remote places especially those with a flyable DC3?

[quote=skeptic36 "well why can't the person/persons charged with the job of making sure rego's are correct sit at the airfield with a lap top reading the (easily legible from a distance) reg numbers, type them in and see if the details for that number match the aircraft and that it is current. No great cost there and they probably already have the laptop anyway."

Because the database with the currency/owner/rego information isnt availiable to anyone (CASA included) except through RAA

This is done to protect us and means any tracking of AC or owners is done through RAA - NOT directly with owners. Its a core part of us acting and being treated as a group not as individuals and the strength this brings.

It would also complicate and cost RAA admin having to keep an online database accurate in real time.

Id reckon it would be fair game to see an AC fly in for fuel or at a fly in and someone to walk up and check rego currency.

AC arent "parked, locked and covered" or "flying" - fair bit of time when inspections could easily be done from wingtip or somewhere near it having full evidence it has just been or is about to fly.

.....IF you are watching your CO card, by the time it changes colour you are in serious trouble ~ 200ppm

If the CO leak has been going on for very long you could be sick, dizzy and having significant judgement problems

I imported some Electronic CO detectors and have a few left - selling @ cost $160

KWJ Engineering Pocket CO 300

These are small, have screen readout of CO ppm, loud buzzer and flashing light, alarm at 3 set levels as well as keep track of exposure vs time and alrm for dangerous levels from this too. First alarm is @ 50ppm

PM me if anyone would like one

PS I have offered these to Ian some time ago for Clear Prop but havent heard back

In Jabirus Engine induction air IS FILTERED , just the source is changed, cold comes from NACA duct, hot comes from exhaust

Jabiru designed the flap valve on the INLET side of the filter box

Take a look

I just had a look, you are right regarding the manual but under "Carb heat" section 7.12.1 it says that both are filtered and this is the case

It does say "normally" and this is the case in most other AC.

Worth letting Jab know about this contradiction, unless they have changed something in the 160. They have had the same air box in all models since the very first ones I think.

Id be suprised if air for engine (hot or cold) bypassed filter box as its a great feature of Jabiru setup

The cabin heat air is completely separate to engine air, and its heated and on or off. No cold availiable. This is deliberate to prevent air from inside engine bay entering cockpit

I guess it would be possible to insert joiner where exhaust muff is for summer flying

2 side vents let in heaps of air for me except when on ground, Ive rarely got them more than 3/4 open even in hot weather.

I was going to add an ETC to mine but they are fairly expensive and apparantly have short lives - hence the switch I assume.

re ETC , some are electric and some vacuum driven

Electric uses a fair bit of power, so they have thier own isolator switch, Id guess if you had a electrical problem or needed every drop of battery power ie winter start, youd turn it off

Also gyro wears out so unless your using it you can turn it off

"Murphy" make these for engine applications, very expensive for what they are, and all are mechanical in the guage type so have to run oil lines etc to it.

Guage senders are the weak link,

Mine decided to slowly read down pressure mid flight until it was just above yellow, slow revs and it would improve, I was on a long X country and a long way from suitable landing site so diverted towards a bush strip and kept going after a while it all came good, then started to fall again. By this time I had diverted from strip to strip and was near destination and landed all OK. Probably lasted 1 hour but was very stressful

Rang Jabiru, first thing to check was sender, which I did and it was buggered, according to them its a regular failure, even brand new. Replaced it and no more trouble.

To put in separate oil press switch, wiring and light would be Id guess less than 80 grams and $50. Jabiru have the port on the front of the engine for the second sender, and these switches are smaller and cheaper (and reliable) than guage sender type.

You need a radio users licensence to use airband ANYWHERE

The Airband radio needs to be approved for ground transmission too.

No idea why

Latest Vertex handhelds arent but old model was certified

You can buy low coolant sensors - expensive though around $180

Nissan still today have "Non linear" guages, ie sit in the one spot for wide range of temp then rise suddenly for the last 10 deg. They are designed that way to make you feel everything is normal under the bonnet