BigPete Posted March 26, 2007 Share Posted March 26, 2007 IS there any truth behind the rumor that Jabiru are working on a Certified J170 in the LSA class (600kg's)??? just fishin' regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Posted March 26, 2007 Share Posted March 26, 2007 Pete ask Cliff B he has one on order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest brentc Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 Accidental post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest brentc Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 With the 'relative' simplicity of the LSA category, it is highly likely that they are and that more will become available as certified aircraft. I can only hope that they work on some of their internal quality control systems first on existing models before flooding the market with new models. They can start by working out a way to cool their engines better! It will be interesting to see how it performs. The specs sheet is quoting 700fpm climb versus the 500fpm for the J160. I wonder if that extra climb will be worth the extra bumps due to the larger wing. It's the same aircraft other than the wing. They are quoting cruise speed on the J160 based on 3,050rpm which would burn a lot of fuel considering they normally suggest a 2,800rpm cruise. I have a mate with a new J430 who's questioning his decision to buy the longer wing version due to the bumpy ride that he gets from it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DonC Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 Quality control systems? That went out long ago! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest a hogarth Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 My new 230c has not been finished very well. Gaps in doors,heater burns my feet,overheating engine,wheels out of align,etc. It would be nice if the brakes worked better. Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest brentc Posted March 28, 2007 Share Posted March 28, 2007 Funny you say that, the J230 I posted on in the other thread suffered from the exact same problems as you. - The doors leaked so we went to bunnings and bought some foam and rubber seals plus it leaked badly around the hinges. - The heater was permanently on and required adjusting to turn it off - The engine was overheating at 100 deg oil on 25 degree day - The righthand undercarriage was way out of whack and the right hand tire wore out at less than 20 hours and the spat cracked open twice as the wheel shook violently on takeoff and landing Well atleast they are consistent! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushpilot Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 So, BC and AH - with the passage of time, how have your experiences with J230s been since making these posts? A buddy of mine has just ordered a 230D, so hopefully some of the bugs in earlier editions will be ironed out by now... Cheers, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Maj Millard Posted August 28, 2009 Share Posted August 28, 2009 No drain points in the floor either when the cabin does fill up with water because of those door gaps and the sudden downpour..................................................... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianboag Posted August 28, 2009 Share Posted August 28, 2009 My J200 was a bit leaky in rain. I drilled a couple of holes in the floor and put rubber plug in them. Not a biggie .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jetjr Posted August 28, 2009 Share Posted August 28, 2009 Once little things are fixed they are great but on a factory build this stuff should be better but would cost more Somehow mine makes rain - 10mm rainfall makes 20mm on the floor - magic? Ill get the gutters one day. Following service bulletin I removed the baffles between the cylinders and fitted the two tabs under the rear of the cowl -temps went crazy hot, put baffles back, no improvement, removed tabs and its back to where it was - just gets hot on hot days. Clearly theres very sensitive adjustments here and they arent all the same. Now I have new oil cooler and lower cowl insert, see how it goes this summer, certainly cooler now - had to block off part of cooler to get 70 deg in flight. JR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Posted August 29, 2009 Share Posted August 29, 2009 JR, Before the factory kits came out, following I think Brentc's example, we put cowl exit deflectors or "tabs" on three J230s here and got very variable results; one actually had more high temperature problems. Mine had only a shallow angle deflection and showed a huge improvement. Make sure your angle of deflection is not too high. Even operating up here in Far North Queensland we don't have any normal operation engine temperature problems now that all the Jabiru cooling mods are in. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Walter Buschor Posted August 29, 2009 Share Posted August 29, 2009 Not owning a Jab I cannot comment on the quality - or lack of it - of the factory made Jabiru but having a Savannah many builders of the Savannah complain about ill-fitting this and that. The are correct . What is worth keeping in mind is the fact that Jabiru's are terrific value for money and have to be seen as such. If a new customer would tell the factory he's happy to pay an extra 10 grand but wants an immaculate finnish I'm sure they'll gladly comply. The same would also apply to the Savannah. I think that these niggles are easy to accept considering the financial saving made. An owner builder can of course fix all these things during construction. safe flying the grey Nomad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 Commenting on the post from Alan of FNQ. He comments on the angle of the added deflector tab under the rear of the engine. I would assume that it acts like an aerofoil section and would stall if it were attached with too great an angle to the bottom of the engine compartment. So it would probably cause turbulence there and even result in higher pressures immediately downstream of it thus reducing the airflow through the engine compartment.. So Alan's more effective added tab that is at a flatter angle than the others makes sense to me It would be interesting to know what those angles were! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 Next time I am at the hanger I will measure the angle and chord width of the deflector plates. I have to climb under the AC anyway to replace the transponder antenna which came away in my sponge during a wash session! Watch these as they are a very light construction and now having seen what little was holding it together i am surprised it lasted this long! The actual angle I used for the deflectors was a fluke. We exposure test aircraft materials up here - primarily composites, but I had some bits of an "alloy" we had left over from some adhesive bonding tests many years back. I cut the deflectors from this alloy and the "shallow" angle was the limited bend I could put in with my wooden bench mounted vice! Boy was that stuff stiff. Must look up what it was at some stage. So I cannot claim any real science in choosing the angle, but years of being around aircraft and model making suggested my low angle would be worth trying. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now