J160 Kit#14 various with Photos

Ross · July 7, 2007

07-07-07

Scraped the leading edge of the LH wing to match the top of the leading edge template and also scraped the wing tip.

Orbital sand the LE of LH wing.

Hand sand the LE of LH wing.

Cleaned up some spilt epoxy in flap channel recess on RH wing residue from flap hinge attachment points.

Drilled some countersinks in pre-drilled holes in aileron attachment plate RH wing for later filling with epoxy micro-ball mix.

It looks reasonable from the top side of the wing.

[ATTACH]2552[/ATTACH][ATTACH]2553[/ATTACH]

But the bottom of the profile has a gap of about 2.5 mm over most of the length of the LH wing at the end of the template.:confused:

9-07-2007 I rang Rod Stiff, managing director at Jabiru, this morning a few minutes ago re the profile of the wing.

He said that as long as the shape of the curve at the join in the leading edge was as per the template the rest of it basically was less important because they were all made in the same moulds and that whatever that shape was that it was the same for both wings and along the wing. It is also a very forgiving wing design and most dimensions are not critical. I read that as saying that my wings are fine once I smooth up the rough bits - a fairly minor job!

I shall have to check the RH wing with the new template as well.

So the LH wing section is thinner than the template by about 2.5 mm at 103 mm from the leading edge.

[ATTACH]2549[/ATTACH]West[ATTACH]2550[/ATTACH]North[ATTACH]2551[/ATTACH]East

This morning 7-07-2007 weather in Leeton about 8 mm rain overnight another 3.5 during the day.

Ross · July 9, 2007

9-07-2007 See results of Phone call to Rod Stiff, managing director of Jabiru, added to saturday's post below.

Regards

Ross · July 9, 2007

9-07-2007

Applied thin layer of epoxied micro-balls to leading edge of LH wing for whole length. Near the wing tip end for about 150 mm length is very flat instead of having the nice curve as per the template.

It is now cured enough to check and it will need at least another layer tomorrow (later today) at that point probably about three or four mm over a short length.

I also filled in the csk holes on the RH wing aileron plate using epoxied micro-balls.

Have also applied some epoxied micro-balls to the wing template before filing it to match the drawing derived from the Jabiru PDF file.

Photo shows the template during filing to match the drawing. Very hard to photograph so I drew on the bottom edge of the template with a black marker pen. It looks better from vertically above it - the important perspective but I cannot get a representative photo from above.

[ATTACH]2575[/ATTACH]

Ross · July 12, 2007

11->12-07-2007 Work continues on RH & LH wing leading edges with some scraping, sanding & minor filling to match the updated template with the emphasis on the radius of the leading edges. Some minor filling using micro-balls was done on both wings.

Two of the retained nuts that secure the aileron hinges were moved to make them more effective. The heat gun was used to soften the epoxy around the retained nuts making their removal fairly simple once the rivets were drilled out. The clearance between the aileron plate on the RH wing and the aileron was set to the correct clearance.

I also found the heat gun effective in improving the alignment of riveted and epoxied hinges in assemblies like wing mounted ailerons. It is achieved by heating them to soften the epoxy and allowing it to relieve stresses by achieving a better alignment of the hinges while soft and retaining that alignment once it cools. Freeing up of tight hinges is a matter of maybe two or three minutes work by using the hot air gun.

Take care not to burn the epoxy or fibreglass . It does not indicate its softness by a colour change. So it is quite soft long before the epoxy starts to char or go brown then black.

I am yet to return to the elevator hinges which are probably acceptable being quite easy to move and do not stick in any position. Their movement could be a little more free by application of some heat to the hinges.

More clean up is needed on both wings to clean up the filling and modification done over the last two days.

None of the epoxy work is being helped by minimum temps overnight of 0 degrees C outside, about 10 degrees C in the garage and maximums of about 11 degrees C outside and lower predicted tomorrow.

I think I will have to take advantage of the big high pressure system that will be sitting over this area on Sunday afternoon and relieve some pressure by applying some aerial therapy for an hour or so out of Narrandera.

Ross · July 16, 2007

16-07-2007 I have an excuse visitors for the last two days. Were going to have a fly at Narrandera on Sunday afternoon but Wally had an early nav ex planned for a student and the fog did not lift till about 12:00 so that moved my 15:00 time slot to never never land!:confused:

Doing more cleaning up on RH & LH wing. On the RH wing the trailing edge on the RH wing in the flap area had not filled completely between the two layers of fibreglass. So I sanded off the bottom layer to make the edge more tapered and then filled it with epoxied microballs which is very easy to dress with any tool.

Draw strings reborn[ATTACH]2598[/ATTACH] Nice & warm under the sheet [ATTACH]2599[/ATTACH]

Garage temp this morning was 8.6 degrees C. Max outside Sunday 8 degrees, min 3 degrees

Ross · August 24, 2007

Wings continuued

24-08-2007 Fit flap to RH wing on A/C.

Connect up flap lever system to flaps.

Check flap rods for clearance on top of inboard end of wing and adjusted as necessary.

Flap actuating rod between flap handle and flap cross over shaft shortened about 10 mm so that flap lever can be put in neutral position when the flap is connected.

A flat edge under the wing from leading edge of wing to trailing edge of flap should have 4 mm gap near the junction of the flap & wing when the flap is in neutral position.

In these photos it is close to that position in the "flap up photos".

Photos around RH wing & flap in up & fully deployed positions.

[ATTACH]3354.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3355.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3356.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3357.vB[/ATTACH]

Flap up photos

[ATTACH]3360.vB[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]3358.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3359.vB[/ATTACH]

Flap down - deployed photos

As pointed out by Geoff Waddleton I should not have fitted the eyebrows on the fuse abeam of the flap position until the flaps are fitted and set in their correct position.

I have only done one so far & I kept it in line with the top of the wing but it is the flap that it should line up with so a bit of radical adjustment is needed here.

23-08-2007 Fit RH wing to AC

22-08-2007 Build castoring table to support wings during connection of wing to aircraft.

20-08-2007

Clean up microball fill on wings

Check & mark position for stall warning on port wing and drill hole inboard end for air hose to stall warning horn very carefully as there is a danger of drilling into fuel tank.

Check position of fuel tank before drilling.

10-08-2007, 11-08-2007

A couple more sessions done on filling rough areas of wing tips mainly with microballs.

Ross · August 29, 2007

27-08-2007 Made up saw horse type support with castor wheels for moving the a/c when engine not mounted.

[ATTACH]3412.vB[/ATTACH]

Ross · August 29, 2007

28-08-2007

Put shelves in castor wheel bench. Put most commonly used tools under the bench together with fasteners.

Turned A/C around in garage ready for mounting Port wing.

[ATTACH]3406.vB[/ATTACH]

Trimmed the the top inboard end of the LH wing to make clearance for the flap actuating rod.

Sat LH wing on moveable bench near the balance point and trestle etc on inboard end to raise it close to the height of the mounting points on the cabin.

[ATTACH]3408.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3407.vB[/ATTACH]

The top inboard wing attachment bolts were tried in their positions and found to be too tight. So they were polished down to fit the lugs on the wings and the cabin.

Used bent wires in the photo instead of bolts to make the initial connection between the wing lugs and the cabin lugs.

Next replace one of the wires with the podger (tapered punch) to get a closer alignment.

Then replace the other wire with an AN174-14A bolt and may have to loosen or remove the podger to allow the bolt to line up with the wing SS bush hole and the cabin lugs.

As the alignment of the SS bush in the fibreglass lug on the wing was a bit off at this stage I stopped trying to attach the wing.

I then heated this SS bush in the wing lug and continued the attachment.

[ATTACH]3410.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3411.vB[/ATTACH]

Each bolt may have to be inserted in its heated SS bush with the other bolt not inserted.

Once the bolt is inserted, the wing can be pulled around to line up the other bolt holes if neceassary and the podger inserted to hold the position until the bush and fibreglass cools down to hold the bush in alignment.

Once the first bolt is in & the bush set in an aligned position remove the bolt and heat up the other bush and get its bolt inserted.

Once the second bolt is in push the wing around to line up the other holes and then insert the first bolt again.

Allow the second bolt & bush to cool down now that all is aligned for that top inboard wing connection.

Both bolts were checked for ease of removal and insertion. If they were still too tight they could be improved by application of more heat to the SS bushes and the reassembling the connection.

Fitted the flap and ensured there was clearance for the flap rod - unfortunately am short an AN3-14A to make the final connection to the flap.

[ATTACH]3413.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3409.vB[/ATTACH]

A similar procedure will happen for the LH wing strut.

Ross · August 30, 2007

30-08-2007

Started off with the wing already attached to the a/c at the inner end of the wing and the outer end supported on a trestle on top of the moving bench. This made it easy to lever the wing up or down to match the strut holes.

[ATTACH]3423.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3422.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3424.vB[/ATTACH]

Mounted LH wing strut with strut end bolts put on top & nuts underneath.

Had to rub down the NAS6605 19 0010 bolts to get them to match the fittings on the end of the strut and the SS lugs under the wing and on the underside of the cabin.

Sanded some material off the lugs so that the strut ends would fit over the fibreglass lugs & SS bushes.

Sanded a radius on the lug edges facing the strut to match the slot in the strut ends otherwise the strut would be deformed when bolted up at both ends.

After getting the bolts to match the fittings then bolted up one end of the strut.

Then heated that end SS bush and surrounding area and manipulated it so that the other end of the strut lined up with the other lug.

Once it stayed lined up, then removed the bolt from the first lug.

Fitted the second bolt to the other end of the strut and repeated the procedure above for the SS bush and lug at this end.

Once the strut was lined up for the second time, refitted the first bolt.

This can result in some binding of possibly both bolts again but at least they are in without breaking any thing.

So then heated both SS bushes again to ensure that bolts were not binding when both ends of the strut were bolted up and attached to the wing & underside of the cabin respectively.

So now at either end of the strut the bolt can be moved or removed relatively easily without any noticeable binding.

This gave the heat gun a workout taking care not to apply enough heat to char or burn the fibreglass.

The heat gun was used on a low setting and surprisingly only took a couple of minutes to make the material very pliable!

A small piece of sheet metal was used to deflect most of the hot air from entering the wing via the space around the under wing lug.

As you can see in the third photo, there is a problem with the alignment of the flap with the "eyebrow" which is not attached yet.

The starboard eyebrow, attached to the fuselage before the wing & flap were mounted is similarly misaligned at this stage!

Geoff · August 31, 2007

Ross have you set the flap to neutral yet ie straight edge under the wing

Ross · August 31, 2007

Hi Geoff

As you can imagine I am short one bolt long enough to connect the flap rod solidly to the flap - I thought that it might arrive today - but it did not arrive - maybe monday! In the photo thus far the flap is almost in the neutral position - the lever (not shown) certainly is in the flap photo!

The LH fairing is is only held there by hand and will not be epoxied in until I can establish the initial neutral flap position.

I was thinking it would be pretty difficult to get the fairing to line up with the trailing edge of the flap with a gap of 3 to 5 mm - I checked with Doug Smith at Jabiru. But I trimmed it with a pair of snips and I think the fit will be OK with a bit of extra filling as you will see in today's photo, again only held in place by hand.

I removed the RH fuselage to flap fairing today ready to start again - it was about 20 or 30 mm above the level of the flap and the clearance was too large.

So I am heeding your advice fully on the LH fairing.

I thought that I had seen a reference to setting the flap neutral position by using the straight edge from the front of the underside of the wing to the trailing edge of the flap.

There would be a gap of 4 mm at the trailing edge of the wing. But I cannot find it yet - I might have to start with your zero gap.

Regards

Ross · August 31, 2007

31-08-2007

Waiting on bolt supplies which I half expected today to set up the LH wing to flap fairing. See explanation in the previous post.

I rang Doug Smith today at Jabiru to find the gap between the flap & fuselage fairing should be 3 to 5 mm.

The fairing should also be set level with the flap in the neutral position.

Mine started off before trimming at about 20 or 30 mm higher than the approximate neutral position of the flap and a gap of over 10 mm.

I will check again when I get the flap properly connected to the control rod to establish the neutral flap position!

As Doug said this may not be the final position of the flap after test flying as either flap might be adjusted up or down slightly to obtain level flight.

LH fuse to flap fairing [ATTACH]3427.vB[/ATTACH] Removed RH fairing[ATTACH]3428.vB[/ATTACH]

In the photo above the LH fairing is not epoxied in place only held by hand, the other hand is holding the camera!

It only took a few minutes to remove the RH flap fairing using a wood chisel about 20 mm wide and the heat gun.

While the epoxied flock used was still warm & soft it was fairly easy to remove any superfluous flock from the RH flap fairing.

Ross · September 1, 2007

01-09-2007

Decided to do the measuring, holesawing and drilling for inserting the LH wing Fuel Drain.

"Carefully" measured 580 mm from leading edge under left wing.

[ATTACH]3455.vB[/ATTACH]

Made up a wooden gauge to make a one person job of it.

"Carefully" measured three times from underneath inner edge of wing to area near rear fuel take off in the wing about 58 mm.

Marked out carefully (40+58) mm to intersect the 580 mm distance from the leading edge.

Carefully used a 44 mm hole-saw to cut through the wing and intended to stop as the saw encountered the gap between the wing and the fuel tank - there was no gap!

The tank was glued to the wing for about two thirds of the spot chosen to drill the hole!

One advantage of this it will be easy to ensure there is no loose waste in the tank close to the drain. I can even get a couple of fingers in there.:confused:

[ATTACH]3448.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3449.vB[/ATTACH]

44 mm diameter holes through the wing and the LH fuel tank in the area close to the most inboard flap bracket support.

[ATTACH]3450.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3451.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3452.vB[/ATTACH]

Drilled a 3/8" hole through the combined piece before separating them.

Gave the heat gun and pocket knife a workout again to separate the removed portion of the wing and the piece of the fuel tank. That only took about two minutes after the heat gun was hooked up to power and the pocket knife located.

[ATTACH]3453.vB[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]3454.vB[/ATTACH]

Enlarged the 3/8" hole in the wing portion to take the fitting for the quick drain.

Temporarily plugged the hole in the underside of the wing & tank to keep out visitors.

Ross · September 3, 2007

3-09-2007

Ordered bolts did not arrive yet, so cannot set LH flap yet - therefore no wing fairing progress yet.

Marked out the RH wing quick drain position on the underside of the wing and the filler body position on the top side of the wing.

Used a 50 mm hole-saw to cut a hole for the filler body in the top of the RH wing marked position.

There was no gap between the wing surface and the fibreglass tank.

Filed out the hole to take the 2" filler body and filed a slight chamfer around the top of the wing hole and removed the gelcoat around that area.

Sandpapered the area of the filler body that is to be flocked to the tank & wing fuel filling hole. Cleaned it with acetone.

Treated the matching part of the filler body and the fibreglass around the hole of the wing & tank with mixed epoxy.

Added flock to the epoxy batch and mixed it until suitable for the job.

Applied flock to the filler body and the hole surfaces ready for the filler body.

Inserted the filler body in the wing hole with the top flush with the wing.

Smoothed the top edges up by filling with flock till level.

Made sure no flock remained on the inside of the filler body especially where the filler cap will sit.

[ATTACH]3508.vB[/ATTACH]

Had to leave two heaters running to keep the temp above 16 degrees C and it is barely doing that.

So it will be a very slow cure - about 6 hours now and nowhere near right yet.

Ross · September 4, 2007

04-09-2007

Bolts will arrive today, Wednesday, presumably as my supplier had run out of one particular bolt that I ordered.

Turned the RH wing upside down on the bench and hole-sawed out the quick drain hole with a 50 mm hole-saw assuming the tank and the wing would be glued together.

They were glued together so there was no air gap between them. The 50 mm cut out will make it easier to reinsert the tank cut out piece and attach the fitting. It will also make it easier to use the vacuum cleaner suction hose inside the wing to remove the material from the hole saw and cleaning up the hole.

A layer of flock was placed around the hole into the tank so that I can sit the cut out piece on it when it is flocked back in later on.

[ATTACH]3509.vB[/ATTACH]

The tank and wing piece cut out by the hole-saw were separated by heating and then splitting with a knife.

The tank piece was epoxied to a piece of fibreglass cloth to prepare it for later installing. It is under the red material in the following photos. Some dry flock has been added to the outside of the red material to dry up epoxy that has gone through the material and save it sticking to the weight that was added to keep it flat and thin.

[ATTACH]3510.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3511.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3512.vB[/ATTACH]

The wing cut out piece has been drilled and filed to suit the quick drain adapter shown here above sitting on top of the quick drain adapter.

[ATTACH]3513.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3514.vB[/ATTACH]

The last photo is showing an adapted tool to support the replaced tank piece for curing when it is replaced later. The support can be withdrawn back though the drain hole but it will have to be larger than the 3/8" specified. So it will have to be done before the quick drain adapter is flocked to the piece of replaced tank.

Ross · September 5, 2007

5-09-2007

The RH Wing

Stripped the peel cloth from the tank piece and trimmed the added fibreglass to fit inside the 50 mm cut out.

Cleaned up the quick drain hole so that the cut out tank piece will sit well down in the hole.

Did not use the tool prepared yesterday to support an annulus in a hole!

Sanded all the pieces to be flocked. Cleaned all surfaces with acetone.

Prepared epoxy & pre-treated all the pieces with epoxy.

Prepared flock by mixing flock with the already prepared epoxy.

Applied flock to all pieces and sat the assembly into the tank/wing hole sitting on the epoxy ledge from last night.

[ATTACH]3525.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3526.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3527.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3528.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3529.vB[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]3530.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3531.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3532.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3533.vB[/ATTACH]

At 22:10 hrs two heaters running with current temp at about 20.5 degrees C.

The LH wing

The bolts arrived so the flap rod for the LH wing could be rigged.

At neutral flap lever setting the flap rod was adjusted so that a straight edge under the wing and flap had no gap.

The fuse to flap fairing was drilled and self tappers inserted so that fairing to flap gap was 3 - 5 mm and it was set level with the flap trailing edge.

[ATTACH]3534.vB[/ATTACH]

Yet to be flocked in place- I would rather do it after the test flight but suppose it must be done before the first flight.

Strange colours because I did not use flash to save glare and shiny spots.

Ross · September 6, 2007

6-09-2007

RH Wing

Installed the fuel cap and fuel tank earth connecting to the filler body on RH wing.

Inserted the breather tube for RH tank and trimmed length to suit tank. This tube is threaded through the plastic clamp attached to the filler body.

It is pushed through until it reaches the outer end of the fuel tank then retracted 5 mm. The length is adjusted to suit the tank.

Screwed the quick drain valve into the adapter already flocked into the wing & tank.

[ATTACH]3543.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3544.vB[/ATTACH]

Foregot to take photos here of the earthing & breather pipe installation.

LH Wing

Derigged the LH wing preparing to install the fuel filler hole.

Marked the position for the fuel filler body 350 mm back from the wing leading edge and 1500 mm outboard from the inboard end of the fuel tank. This locates the filler in the top outboard end of the LH wing tank.

Using the 54 mm or 2.125" holesaw cut the hole for the fuel filler body. This is the outside diameter size of the fuel filler - not 50 mm.

Used the drill mounted emery cloth to remove the gelcoat off around the edge of the top of the hole. Cleaned up the loose bits in the hole.

Vacuumed out the loose material near the filler hole in the tank after removing the cloth plug blocking the quick drain 45 mm hole.

Assembled the fuel filler body with earth strap and tank earth wire and sat it in the filler hole.

[ATTACH]3545.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3546.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3547.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3548.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3549.vB[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]3550.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3551.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3552.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3553.vB[/ATTACH]

Pieces still need to be sanded, cleaned with acetone, treated with epoxy and the hole edges then flocked into place and after curing install the LH tank breather pipe.

brilin_air · September 6, 2007

Hi Ross, I have found that glad bake paper works good to give a smooth surface with resin, it needs less to clean up and doesn't stick. I am at the same area with my J160, I am still fitting my flap arms and ailerons before I fit my tank filler and drains, how did the breather tubes fit in, do they go in through the breather pipe fitting at the end of the wing? keep up the good work.

Brian

Ross · September 6, 2007

Hi Brian

Thanks for the tip on the paper. I keep forgetting to use peel cloth on small sections like around fittings. But I will definitely use some on the LH wing tank filler fitting small as the mess should be.

The breather pipe has a unique compression fitting with no finger filter on the inside end.

Basically slide the compression nut up along the pipe to the end with the flare on it. Then slide the brass compression bit on as well being carefull not to jam it.

Then slide the pipe through the fitting on the end of the tank until it reaches the far end of the tank - I had to shake mine a bit up and down & sideways to eventually get to the end of the tank - it might even be temporarily stopped by the tank filler body.

Once at the far end. Mark the entry end & retract the pipe 5 mm. Measure the length of pipe still outside the tank maybe about 60 mm.

Pull the pipe out of the tank - allow probably about 20 to 25 mm for connecting the fuel lines to the Al tube and cut off the balance probably about 20 to 30 mm from the non flared end. Each one will be different because of how the tanks are made.

Need to file a bit of a radius on the fresh cut end so that it will not jam or damage the inside of the tank.

Also need to debur the cut end and make sure no small pieces of metal end up inside the tank or inside the pipe.

Reinsert the pipe and when it gets to the clamp at the tank filler feed it through the plastic clamp till it is stopped by the end of the tank - retract it 5 mm and do up the clamp & fitting.

When doing the RH wing breather pipe I made the mistake of not attaching the clamp to the filler neck before flocking in the fitting. I even thought that I had put the filler in 180 degrees out - turned out to be the right way round!

As you can see below when doing the LH wing breather pipe I have attached the clamp & earth wires before flocking the filter into the tank and wing - a much better idea.

Buying a 54 mm holesaw and using it on the LH wing tank filler hole also was much better than using the 50 mm holesaw for the filler hole which I had done for the RH tank filler.

Regards

Ross · September 7, 2007

7-09-2007

Mixed epoxy for LH wing fuel filler body. 14:30 hrs

Sanded fuel filler body parts and cleaned it and the mating wing hole with acetone and then primed them with epoxy.

Used the remainder of the epoxy to mix with flock.

When ready treated the mating surfaces again with "flock" and inserted the fuel filler body into the wing hole.

Forced additional flock all around and down the side of the fuel filler body below its lip.

Because of the attached earth wires the fuel filler body tended to rotate so I had to ballast it pretty well and check it a number of times until it was cured enough to resist any turning forces. I should have disconnected the earth wire to the cap and that may have helped.

The fuel filler body should end up with the one hole for the self tapper that holds the breather pipe and the earth wires on the side of the filler body closest to the leading edge of the wing because that then will allow the attached breather pipe to go to the highest point of that wing tank.

[ATTACH]3554.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3555.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3556.vB[/ATTACH] about 21:00 hrs

I also made up an extra tray for tools that should allow me to keep almost all the tools off the floor and the aircraft.

[ATTACH]3557.vB[/ATTACH]

I also made an extra set of rails on the wheeled bench to carry that extra tray when not on a set of trestles. It would have been better to have done all the trays etc earlier - but then I did not have as many tools!

Ross · September 8, 2007

8-09-2007:

LH wing Quick drain continued:

Hole already exists as 45 mm right intoo the tank.

Inserted a false centre in the 45 mm hole and holesawed it out to 54 mm taking care not to go through the tank skin again.

Vacuumed out the waste with the filler cap removed and a rough seal around around the suction hose into the quick drain hole.

Cleaned out material in the hole on top of the tank skin using the heat gun and a chisel.

Made up epoxy & primed the quick drain hole hole & surrounds.

Epoxied fibreglass cloth to the circular tank skin that was cut out at the quick drain hole and sat it on the bench to semi-cure under a brick and some peel cloth.

Mixed up epoxy with flock to put a base in the quick drain hole hole to support the cut out tank skin. Had to wait till this was almost hard so that it could be formed to support the tank piece.

[ATTACH]3558.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3559.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3560.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3561.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3562.vB[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]3563.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3564.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3565.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3566.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3567.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3568.vB[/ATTACH]

Forgot to take a photo of it when it was ready to flock the quick drain body assembly in place.

Prepared the parts by sanding, cleaning with acetone, treating with epoxy and assembling with a layer of fairly liquid flock to make sure that it gets into all the crevices.

Care was taken to push some flock into the gap where it existed between the wing skin and the tank skin.

Next morning after using the scraper. Still needs cleaning up.

[ATTACH]3569.vB[/ATTACH]

Ross · September 10, 2007

9-09-2007

Went to Narrandera for the monthly barbecue and managed to have a short flight in Wall's J230c, a lovely aeroplane and very nice to fly. It proved I needed more flying.

10-09-2007

Installing stall warning fitting in left wing leading edge.

I will start this off with a very rough freehand sketch that took a full two minutes to prepare.

[ATTACH]3581.vB[/ATTACH]

This rough sketch represents the inboard end elevation of the LH wing area and the sectional view inside the wing probably as far as where the stall warning will be installed.

If I had followed the installation instruction I would have drilled a hole through the end of the wing and the tank in about point A on the sketch.

I put a strong light under the wing and decided that drilling a hole at A was not a good idea followed by probing with a piece of wire through the fuel tappings for the sight gauge verifying that.

So hole B was the result which only just missed the tank. So I fed a piece of wire through hole B which was able to get into the wing past the stall warning position.

The wire could not be seen through the hole drilled through the leading edge for the stall warning sensor at 1215 mm from the wing root.

So there was no access to the Leading edge from hole B.

Via the next two smaller unlabelled holes it was discovered that there were multiple gussets along the leading edge with large holes in line through them.

With a final hole at C, it was possible to insert a piece of wire or a rod with a bend in it and a folded piece on the end over which was forced one end of the stall warning 8 mm tube.

Once the tube was led by the wire past the stall warning position the tube was pulled back lightly so the wire disengaged and the wire was then pulled out.

Then a heavier short wire with a right angle end was used to retrieve the plastic tube through the hole cut out and ready to take the stall warning sensor end.

[ATTACH]3581.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3582.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3583.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3584.vB[/ATTACH]

I have shown a modified version of part the J160 stall warning drawings to show the eventual position of the hole that I cut for the stall warning tube.

I do not know if this applies to later kits.

[ATTACH]3585.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3586.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3587.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3588.vB[/ATTACH]

The final straw was to find that the spring loaded clamps supplied to clamp the plastic tubing on the funnel shaped sensor was much too large in diameter.

[ATTACH]3589.vB[/ATTACH]

A quick trip around Leeton starting at about 17:20 hrs to four garages, a shop specialising in tools and equipment for all sorts of trades, and a Repco like shop failed to find a spring loaded clamp. I just missed the lawnmower shop/workshop which would probably be the best bet.

Ross · September 11, 2007

11-09-2007

Managed to get the stall warning fitted in the LH wing leading edge.

A suck on it after it cured and it made that sound that controllers hear when they call up pilots who are rounding out without their undercarriage being lowered.

[ATTACH]3593.vB[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]3594.vB[/ATTACH]

Still need to patch up a few superfluous holes.

Ross · September 12, 2007

12-09-2007

Mixed a small batch of epoxy. I weigh it on an old set of post office scales. I use 5/16" nuts as mass units. So my smallest mix is 3 nuts of Resin plus 1 nut of Hardner. I had bought 50 nuts which I reserve for this job! So 50 divided by four does not go evenly!

Brushed some epoxy onto the surface around the unwanted holes and applied a small dry "glass" patch with a bit of overlap. Spread some more epoxy onto the glass with the brush on top of the patch until it is soaked with epoxy. Repeated with another couple of layers.

[ATTACH]3595.vB[/ATTACH]

Patching the unwanted holes near the stall warning suction tube.

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Attached the fairing from fuselage to LH wing.

Gave all surfaces of the fairing and the fuselage to be epoxied a rub down with the emery cloth wheel in the hand drill.

Cleaned all surfaces to be epoxied and flocked with Acetone.

Mixed a batch of epoxy to pretreat the surfaces to be flocked together.

Pretreated all surfaces to be stuck together with epoxy.

Mixed the remaining epoxy with cotton flock and when ready applied it to the surfaces to be attached.

This is flock batch # 122 a sample of which has been saved in a waxed medicine measure about 2 or 3 mls. After it cures it will be removed and marked with its sample number with a permanent marker and put in storage in plastic screw top honey jars with other samples. The sample numbers in the jars are marked on the outside of each the jar.

Applied the self tappers to hold the fairing in place until the flock is cured.

The fairing was lined up in an earlier session with the wing & flaps and drilled and self tappers applied to keep it in place.

[ATTACH]3596.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3597.vB[/ATTACH]

The fairing will need more filling and will also be cleaned up when closer to curing or after curing.

It may also be moved a bit more if necessary by using some heat from the hot air gun before trying to change things.

Ross · September 13, 2007

13-09-2007

Installed all fuel fitting in the LH & RH wing roots with Loctite 262 on their threads.

The Quick Drains have not been done as a bit of flushing will be done later through them to reduce any initial load on the finger filters.

Made sure all fuel fittings are sealed up with tape and or tubing.

Removed SS screws from LH fuse to wing & flap fairing.

Made up extra wing stand to facilitate fitting wing to A/C.

Enlarged holes for stall warning into fuselage.

Enlarged holes for fuel lines into cabin.

Fitted internal breather pipe to LH wing tank and adjusted length to suit. It is slightly different from the other side.

Pre-fitted aileron cable anchor inspection window to both wings.

First pic is a view through tank filler on LH wing tank showing earth strap from filler cap, attach point on filler body, earth wire descending into tank, and part of the LH wing tank internal breather tube anchored on the filler body. The lght shown below is sitting on the floor under the wing providing the light inside the wing.

[ATTACH]3605.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3606.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3607.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3608.vB[/ATTACH]

Some of the fittings were too close to the wing skin to use a tube spanner or a ring spanner.

[ATTACH]3609.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3610.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3611.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3612.vB[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]3614.vB[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]3613.vB[/ATTACH]

The second Quick drain body installation was a much neater job with a bit more space available.

[ATTACH]3617.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3615.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3616.vB[/ATTACH]

Flood light sitting on bench was used to inspect inside of wing by placing it under the wing and looking at shadows before painting with undercoat.