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J160 Kit#14 various with Photos


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The kit, in three wooden boxes secured together, was sent by road from Bundaberg to the agent of a Leeton carrier in Brisbane about 300 km I think from where it was back-loaded to Leeton about 1350 km on a semitrailer and then transferred to a smaller truck & delivered to our place.




Jabiru J160 about to be unloaded - Note the normal sky colour


At this stage the hull join, horiz stabiliser join and vertical stabiliser have been smoothed by filling with epoxy micro-balls and undercoat filler sprayed with a couple of coats. What you can see has then been sanded and refilled where necessary.There is plenty of spraying and sanding still to go with most of this undercoat to be sanded off.








Inside all the control levers in the cabin have been fitted; rudder pedals with 4 pedal stops, rudder cable with stops aft on fuse & verttical stabilizer, elevator control lever and cable, trim lever and cable, aileron lever, flap handle & cross shaft, hand brake handle with ratchet stop & master cylinder, engine throttle lever & cable. The fuel lines with valves for each tank and sight gauges (wet wings) have been fitted in the cabin, still to finalise the header tank. Electric fuel pump & filter have been fitted.






This one is a lot later with the base of the rudder pedal stops stiffened up with an extra layer of Al strip and the firewall has now got a layer of foam and felt glued o it.


Static line and strobe wires have been run to the top of the tail and a pitot line has been threaded from the panel area under the passenger seat through the hull near the hull strut connection point long enough to reach the pitot tube to be installed in the right hand side strut.


The main UC has been sanded, undercoated and final painted and fitted to the hull with larger bolts than originally specified.


To be continued maybe....!















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Apparently I cannot stick any more pics in here as I am denied access when I try to insert more pictures. I suppose that makes it so non broad band members can avoid tedius waits beacause oflots ofpictures and look at it if they want to in smaller sessions.


To be continued maybe....!

Ross, there isn't a limit on the number of pictures you can post - can you please try and post some more and let me know if you are having any problems so I can look into it?

The process to add pictures (from your own c drive), which have to be done one by one is:


1. Click the little picture of a tree in the menu bar across where you create your post


2. Click Browse in the middle of the left hand side


3. Select the image on your own PC - make sure it isn't greater then 150k in size


4. Click Upload on the bottom left side of the image upload form


5. Click OK when the message to be patient pops up


6. Click OK in the bottom right hand side when the image is shown in the preview box



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Hi Crew


A few more pics.


These rudder pedal stops will need a bit more material underneath perhaps a piece of equal Al angle welded to the base and up the side of each tube.


Rudder pedal Stops Engine Side firewall






Battery Holder modified so that the battery can be removed w/o Simple panel.


removing the engine mount.




Simple to install.




Cable controls to be installed below Al instrument panel.




I was worried about fitting the doors having heard horror stories about fitting them but was pleasantly surprised with no heating or bending done on this door so far.


RH side of Horiz stabiliser with end cap almost prefitted


RH side elevator hinge pop riveted and epoxied w/o hinge pin retainer fitted yet


RH side of elevator with mass balance end cap almost prefitted




To be continued ....

















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Hi Ian


I think perhaps the problem was that I tried to edit the posted item while you were moving it to the new location. I presume that the system effectively had it locked against me until the move was completed - otherwise chaos.


In 2007 I think I probably double clicked in IE6 and had two copies running therefor locking the file for the second copy.







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Guest micgrace

Hi Ross.


Just an idea on them pedals. A small gusset 0.5" x 0.5" x.05"will do in the corners. Has been used on other types as a registered mod, I don't know for Jabaru as yet. Plus a small plate on the back to contact the pedal stop will help.


I presume it's being built under experimental. That 4130 steel is plenty strong for that.


Micgrace :)



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Hi Michael


I set the pedal stops up so that the middle of the hollow back of the pedal, not the pedal post, arrives on the top of the cup head bolt (stop). The line direction of the bolt stop is approximately a tangent to the arc of the pedal movement when it connects. This should reduce the tendency of the bolt stop to bend under the load of the pilot when the pedal bottoms on the stop.


The position of the stop on the pedal reduces the potential load that can be put on the welds holding the pedals to it's support. While in the air, the maximum load on the pedal linkage etc should only be that required to move the rudder unless you are having an argument with your passenger. In gliding, sothe story goes,this only happens when two instructors are flying (together)in a Blanik (in tandem seats).


It reduces the chance of the pedal slipping past the stop. There is another set of stops for the passenger side pedals and a set of fibre glass stops at the rudder as well. The latter work on the rudder thus protecting the cable if the cabin stops are set correctly.


For all this to work safely to protect the pedals with their welds (they come with a test certificate), the push pull cable and the rudder itself all the stops must be set up to match one another with the correct allowable travel for rudder cable, angle of rudder and angle of turn for the front wheel.


The spring loaded rods to the front wheel are set to centre the front wheel with the correct angle set on the rudder and the rudder pedals centerd.


Trimmed correctly etc the J160 should cruise ok with feet off the pedals. That will be different.


My apologies if these explanations of my actions here are too much - this is one the difficulties of communicating using the internet.





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Guest micgrace

Hi Ross


I agree thats it's very hard to effectively share ides over the internet. I can only see a very small part of what you are doing (the front)


Micgrace :)



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Hi Michael


I just took another quick photo a bit closer with macro with plenty of dust on everything. The rudder is not actually connected in this pic but the stops are set roughly in the right place. I think that shows what you mean about the pedal gusseting hence my mounting the stops to minimise the load at full travel. It doesn't solve the problem of two sets of legs working in opposite directions though. They are Jabiru supplied pedals with test certificate.







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Guest micgrace

Hi Ross,


I can see what your getting at there. The mod should prevent a potential bending problem on full rudder. It looks to me like the stop contacts the inside of the channel . I'd be tempted toglue on a thin piece of insertion rubber on the inside. But thats just me. If its simple I'll soon complicate it.


Micgrace :)



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  • 3 months later...

Hi Darren


I have virtually finished the tail group except for high fill undercoat rubbing back around the horizontal stabiliser and end caps.


This week I have lined the cabin area except for the firewall foam & felt and the strips down the side of the windscreen. I have moved my tail strobe power supply to the fuselage wall just below the rear window behind the pilot's seat. It should have less effect on the balance and be less subject to accidental damage from luggage. I have run the aerial down the other side of the fuselage.


However they have not supplied me with felt & velcro strips to cover the fuel lines to the wet wings so I will have to organise that tomorrow. My wife does not think there is a velcro supplier in Leeton so I may have to get it from Wagga or Griffith.


I have other felt to do the lining in the luggage area but will have to get more goo from my local carpet supplier.


After that lining is finished I will install the windscreen and the back windows. The doors can be a fill in job and better to leave them off if rolling the aircraft over for undercoating rubbing back & final painting.


Had a day off today with a drive to Deniliquin to have lunch with an elderly Aunt. That was from Leeton to Whitton, Darlington Point, Coleambally, Jerilderie




Off the side of the bitumen road west of Jerilderie and east of Conargo NSW Au 20061002


and Conargo then Deniliquin. We returned via Finley visiting another Aunt then Jerilderie, Narrandera, Yanco then home to Leeton, total distance was 492 km. There was only about 7 km difference in the two 'halves' of the trip!


Regards Ross





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Guest AusDarren

Sounds like would have been a good trip for your new toy..


good that its all comming along well.


I'm heading out to Point Cook on Sunday for a BFR..


to brush off a few cobwebs..







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Hi Darren


I did my BFR a few weeks ago. I was as nervous as hell - my first BFR.


You are not wrong there on the trip comment. I have already flight planned it a number of times. Flying it would have takenless than three hours versus about six hours driving. (I don't count planning, fuelling, preparation and ferrying to and from aerodromes)


I have a Kit Fox brother in Wentworth (near Mildura), a sister in Howlong (ex Narromine Soaring Centre) near Albury, a sister in Ballina, a brother in Sydney(lapsed GA pilot), another brother in Melbourne, another sister in each of Adelaide and Ballarat. Another retired brother like me lives here in Leeton and loves flying as a passenger but has shown no inclination to help on the J160 build.


I visited the Ballarat sister on one of my cross country exercises while training. Another training flight was into Albury aerodrome (an activecontrol zone) with my instructor who did a test there while I flight planned back to Griffith. That was the same day of the fatal plane loss in the Victorian Alps. I was worried with a continuously lowering ceiling as we returned to Griffith.


So I am fairly centrally placed to visit most of my siblings in the J160 and far enough away to justify the flight provided we still have fuel and aerodromes when I finish building it.


Regards Ross



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Guest AusDarren

Ahhh you must have seen thatreportabout Peak Oil;


a concern for us all really..


thanks for that, asistants can be hard to find..


passengers are easy to find!


Good speed with your build





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Hi Geoff & Roger


I am not going to beat either of you into the air but from what I heard in Narrandera at the barbecue on Sunday Roger's crew are going to win the race on about 19th October.


Well I have got most of the lining done and some felt on the instrument panel housing and the aircleaner mounted on the engine side of the firewall. Tomorrow, hopefully, I should get the firewall lining done and the instrument panel mounted in the cabin. Note the difference between my J160 panel and Geoff's panel. I am still deciding where exactly to put the carby heat cable through the firewall! It is a bit cramped!




Sound curtain installed - Aerial leadwire on LHS - Strobe HT lead on RHS




Luggage floor, walls and most of roof lined - strobe wire with cover on RHS & mounting strips behind pilot seat




Aerial lead - Luggage floor & wall - Some joins to tidy up




Strobe power mounting strips and covered strobe HT lead




Passenger side cabin roof lining




Instrument Panel attached to clamp felt - white (glue) blotches will largely disappear once they dry.


Regards Ross















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Hi All


My excuse is we had late afternoon visitors but got a bit done but not the panel installed.




Disconnect fuel line - remove rudder pedal stops - Fit & glue the foam to the back of the firewall




Fit & glue felt - Reinstall Rudder pedal stops - Connect fuel line




Paint air cleaner - Prefit & Pop rivet air cleaner to firewall











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Hi All


Found panel bolt holes in firewall and cleaned them out.


Cleared cable holes for choke & throttle, carby heat and cabin heat.


Used longer bolts by 1/8" for panel mounting - will check them later as the foam & felt compresses overtime.


Mounted compass on top of panel in front of pilot seat - used three brass mounting bolts, nuts & washers to eliminate interference.


The shiny, not stainless, steel panel mounting screw below and near the compass did not have a noticeable affect on that bearing of the compass whether it was in or out. I did not try removing the retained nut used by the panel mounting screw.




The electrical wiring through the fire wall is not done yet.


The choke, carburettor heat & cabin heat cables are mounted below the panel to make access easier to the back of the panel.







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Hi All


Did more work on panel over weekend.


Got the battery installed and hooked up to an negative earth strap on the stainless steel firewall and to the positive starter motor solenoid on the firewall.


Because I have mounted the switches and circuit breakers close to the bottom of the panel I had to trim a lot of material from the fibreglass panel edges. The large size of the supplied switches does not help.There are a number of safer types on the market so that you don't end up with the possibility of a switch knob embedded in your skull. See Captain's switches - loverley.


The key operated solenoid to power the two positive panel busses is connected powering the main buss & the instrument buss. It works.


I have previously tested the temperature gauges roughly using hot water on the oil temp and a heat gun on the CHT and EGT.


The starter solenoid button works and is only live when the master switch is activated.


The radio is wired up to power and the aerial but not the sockets for headphones yet. A temporary single socket with a small speaker plugged in shows that it is picking up traffic as far away as Bathurst and Dubbo plus Melbourne Centre - all this in my garage at Leeton under a tile roof and some close large gum trees about 70+ feet high!


Electrical Still to do:


Get some more 10 gauge wire! (my mistake)


Replace some temporary wire with 10 gauge.


Electric booster fuel pump to connect to panel.


Probe power unit to connect to panel buss.


Engine to reinstall but will probably leave till a bit more other work is done.


Instruments to connect to engine.


Earth carburettor to engine.


Earth engine to firewall earth.


Connect up ignition kill wires to engine.


Connect alternator wires to panel.





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Hi Crew


Realised the weekend was not over so did a bit more electrical panel stuff.


Passed a piece of 12 gauge tie wire (tie wire for fencing) up the console from the aft end to draw the radio harness wires to the rear just behind the seats.


Taped up the radio harness for the pilot & copilot microphone & headset jacks. Pulled the pilot & copilot jack wires through the console.


Drilled two 3/8" holes to left side of pilot's seat for the pilot radio jacks. Despite both jacks needing the same size hole they have different nut sizes & so require two spanners to do them up 11 mm & 12 mm I think they were!


Soldered the connections for the pilot side & copilot side radio jacks.


Installed thepilot side radio jacks.


Tried the radio reception for pilot side jacks - works fine with earphones and small speaker.


Tried the intercom - can hear myself in the earphones - sounds fine so far.


Still to put holes in the cabin lining for the jacks and re-glue the lining for pilot & copilot sides and clean up - vacuum etc).




Photo taken through window hole behind the pilot seat showing the pilot radio jacks between the pilot seat & fuse wall. Also note both pilot & copilot wiring shown both yet to be secured under their respective beams behind their respective seats. The lining is yet to be holed to suit the jacks and re-glued.


As you cannot see the jacks when you are flying I would really like them to be visible and accessible when you are airborne. There seems to be virtually no other conveneient location for them.


The shiny item in the foreground is the power unit for the tail mounted strobe yet to be supplied with power.If it interferes with the radio I can shift it aft a foot or two with the mounting strips already fitted under the lining!


Regards Ross





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Hi Crew


Ran the wires and installed the copilot radio jacks


Tied the head set wiresunder the beam behind the seats.


Installed the PTT button on the top of the joystick


Installed the radio MEM button near the top of the joystick allowing the choice of the next prerecorded frequency set in one of the radios 25 memory locations. It can only roll the selected frequency forwards from 1 to 25 then starts again.


Installed temporary power leads for the tail mounted strobe and tried the strobe with the radio going - the strobe power unit is producing a lot of interference on the radio as the charge builds up before it fires the strobe even after moving the power unit further back near the sound curtain.


Any suggestions?





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Guest micgrace

Hi Ross


Not an easy one to solve. Could try separating the power supply/coax to/from radio from the power supply/wiring to the strobe. and have as much separation as possible ie separate runs, ie other side of craft.


Especially important to keep radio coax as far away from wiring as possible.


Also could try independent power supply direct from battery for it and still separate it. But with it's own bus?


Also check out the earth return system for problems. A lot of interference pops up there as well.


A last resort, if all else fails? A faraday cage. Effectively isolates RFI, if such is the problem. ie. a thin perforated metal box around offending item. I haven't heard of anyone actually using this as a solution, but the physics is sound.


Might find something there of use??


Micgrace :)



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There was a thread earlier that addressed rfi - it might be worth a read..


It was in the Jabiru section posted as RFI.




ps I have no idea how to post links that you can clik on - sorry :;)4:



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Hi Roger, Geoff and Micgrace


Thanks forall the suggestions - I am working on all of them.


Essentially I am running the coax down the bottom middle of the fuse as far as the sound curtain then down the passenger side wall over the door and into the side of the panel. Once in there it is pretty hard to avoid all leads but I am in the process of lengthening some power leads under the panel to give more flexabilty in location.


The temporary low tension power leads to the strobe power unit are strung from the panel across the top of pilots seat to the strobe power unit. The Strobe high tension power leads go from the unit along the pilot side of the fuse to the tail unit. They cross the aerial coax at the base of the tail.


The whole thing might be better in the open away from the building and trees which must soak soak up some of the radio signal and therefore allowing the strobe RFI to be a nuisance, relatively stronger than normal!?


After trying a few things this morning I got to thinking of putting the power unit in a bucket of water to shut up the interference but settled on an empty steel paint bucket - that did not work either! To cut out the strobe RFI requires about another half turn or more of the squelch knob. I shall have to quantify that more carefully. At the moment the battery is on the charger. The RFI is stronger on some frequencies than others.


Well I had better go and try a few more ideas!





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Guest Fred Bear

When I helped assemble one it had wingtip strobes and I put the flasher box up inside the fuselage on the inside, level with the wing root. It was red in colour and when people asked what it was, I told them it's the "black box." It had the very smallest amount of radio inteference, if any. I wonder if your problems are coming from the fact that the strobe wires are running practically alongside the coax...?


I can chase up someone for you with the exact same set-up however I think he's in Tassie right now.


Factory Jabs generally have the wingtip strobes so it doesn't usually pose much of a problem.


If you're getting problems and the wiring is miles away and you can't solve it, I'd be giving Microair a call.



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Hi Clem


Thanks for that. I would be intersted in any detail you can find out.


I can use the squelch to tune the worst of thestrobeRFI out. It takes anything from about 1/8 of a turn to about 3/8 turn of the squelch knob. That will get rid of the worst of it but there is still a noticeable improvement once you turn off the strobe. I don't know how much radio traffic distance reception is being reduced say an extra 1/8 to possibly 1/2 turn of the squelch knob.


They should be able to run flashing LEDs as strobes nowadays as they probably run on a far lower voltage than the classic strobe. I have no idea of what sort of RFI they produce if any. I might check it out. They seem to be used in lots more applications as they are a more efficient light producer than classic globes.


There is still a bit of panel wiring to tidy up and rearrange also I can not take the fuselage out in the open yet to test open air reception until I widen the existing temporary doorway of the carport - garage with no permanent door.





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