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jcruffle

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Has anybody modified their Jab with an external power socket or similar device to facilitate jump starts?? My 230 is factory built and certified, so I am aware of the limitations to any mods. carried out. Perhaps someone has already looked in to it. I don't want to re-invent the wheel if I don't have to.

 

Happy flying:

 

John

 

 

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Guest brentc

Certification aside a mate with a J430 has got an auxillary plug from a Caravan shop. It has a flap on it to stop the water and everything getting in. I've seen them mounted on the firewall facing down and one on the side of the cowl.

 

 

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try getting an "anderson" plug. These are designed for use with high current DC.

 

I use just a 50amp version and it seems to work fine mounted on the bottom of the firewall - I just plug in the matching jumper leads and away I go.

 

I bought a bag of 10 of these, so if you want one PM me.

 

 

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try getting an "anderson" plug.

John.

 

 

 

I have fitted one of those Anderson plugs to my 230 out of sight on the side of one of the air outlet channels (what is their aeronautic name?) in the underside of the fuselage aft of the firewall, but I made mine up to be able to easily plug in a charger and have a solar panel and voltage regulator for it when away.

 

 

 

Went and bought another 2 of those plugs this arvo to also make up a longer lead to use while hangared. Here is a photo & I think they were about $20 each from an auto accessory joint here in the sticks. [ATTACH]5107.vB[/ATTACH]

 

 

I opted not to make it suitable for "jump" starting as I reckoned that would need extra heavy cables from the plug to the battery to supply the current from a big outside source. (have you ever fealt how hot jumper leads get during that process?)

 

 

 

Regards Geoff

 

IMG_7664.JPG.9f17590966d18ea07aae7be62ce573e4.JPG

 

 

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  • 3 months later...
Guest Graeme747

Hi John

 

Yes we recently modified our four J230's by fitting external power recepticals provided by Jabiru. We were (and still are) having problems with early morning engine starts where the aircraft are packed outside and subject to overnight cold soak. Adding ground power support has eliminated the need to remove the cowl to jump start the engine. We use a heavy duty truck battery which allows enough attempts to eventually start the engine. Some start easier than others. Jabiru are aware of the problem and are currently working on a solution, available in the not too distant future I hope. Still feeling my around these forums but I'll try adding some pics....mmmm.... not sure how to do that 049_sad.gif.af5e5c0993af131d9c5bfe880fbbc2a0.gif . I'll gladly email you some images if interested. My email address [email protected]

 

Graeme

 

 

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Exactly the problem I've been struggling with since the onset of winter.

 

With an uncharacteristic amount of foresight, I included a positive terminal (on a HT lead) mounted in the forward luggage compartment of my Cheetah when I built it. Lately I've been using it a lot. I have a jump pack which I keep charged and in the hangar. It's an easy matter to chock the front wheel, open the compartment, attach the jump pack to the terminal and the exhaust, fire up, put the jump pack away (or throw it in the plane) while warming, remove chocks, get in and go.

 

However, it's a pain and surely unnecessary?

 

I've been meaning to ask for a while. ¿Qué pasa? The battery typically reads 12.3v, but will barely turn over the engine. Attaching the jump pack turns it over very briskly and it starts immediately. The battery is an Odyssey - supposedly very good.

 

Jack said that at the Jab forum at Narromine, it was suggested that one fix was to remove an o-ring from the starter motor to improve earth conductivity. Apparently it is only there for water-proofing when mounted in other installations where water might be a problem. Has anyone tried this?

 

Another friend runs a paint stripper gun (heater) inside the cowl for 15 minutes before attempting to start it.

 

Any other fixes? I'd love to resolve this issue.

 

Cheers,

 

Ross

 

 

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Try making sure your dizzy contacts are clean and dry, remove oxides.

 

Use Irridium plugs at 26 thou gap, or std ones at 22 I think???

 

Use Aeroshell 15-W50 in winter.

 

Make sure all connections are good.

 

Never had a problem even in NRM on a freezing morning.

 

J

 

 

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Guest ozzie

Instead of removing an O ring on the starter try a piece of suitable earth braid cable from the starter to the engine or run the earth lead direct to starter body. try and get a voltage reading when you are cranking the engine. a fully charged 12v battery should show at least 13.5 v static, cranking volts should be above 11.5v. shorter the cable run the better, longer the run the heavier the cable. if the leads and lugs are getting hot check the lug to cable connection, or go up in wire gauge.

 

Also check the starter solinoid wire to start switch is it heavy enough to handle 15 20 amps. sometimes a suitable relay to operate the solioid will help here.

 

ozzie

 

 

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Guest brentc

My 6 cylinder Jabiru charges at 13.85 volts at full power or from around 2,800rpm upwards. It never sits at over 12 volts when the engine is not running. I have a 1 week old brand new 680 Odyssey battery (the 700's are no longer available).

 

I use a small Dick Smith type jump start unit that I carry around with me for if things get cold outside. Where I come unstuck is if flying with my strobes and landing light on which suck hard on the battery, then I taxi around and back to the hangar. This puts a big dint in my available cranking amps the next day / week because the Jab 6 doesn't charge until atleast 1,500rpm and I've run it for a while taxiing at low rpm.

 

J430 is on the money for cold starts however from the engine dept only last week, 20 thou plug gap is recommended for cold starting, plus you need to set the magnet gaps on the flywheel to 10 thou.

 

I have also heard that Jabiru are working on a solution for this too as recently as last week.

 

I can highly recommend the external plug setup!

 

 

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