Jump to content

duncan_rtfm

Members
  • Content Count

    46
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About duncan_rtfm

  • Rank
    Well-known member

Information

  • Aircraft
    FleaBike
  • Location
    Brisbane
  • Country
    Australia

Recent Profile Visitors

494 profile views
  1. Hi,

    Anyone know where I can get decals/stencils/wrap to apply to my white-painted fuselage and wings?  (I'm in Brisbane).

     

    Paint scheme.png

  2. Hi, I assume that the further aft the CG is from the main gear, the more difficult it will be to keep a tail dragger tracking straight down the runway, and vice-versa. Are there guidelines for this? Raymer suggests an angle of from 16 deg to 25 deg from the main gear to the CG. My undercarriage can be swapped left/right to convert the Fleabike from a tricycle to a tail dragger, so I'm looking for some real-world experience from guys who have flown well-behaved tail draggers. Any advice? Duncan
  3. Hi, So very sorry to hear of your health issues. It's a sad day - and one which is down the road for all of us eventually. Good luck with the sale.
  4. During SEQ's lockdown I've been champing at the bit, because I have been waiting for a wood delivery to carry on work on the Fleabike.  So, with nothing else to do, I have designed a new plane - this time a fully enclosed single seater.

     

    I've decided to build it with the cedar strip canoe method.  I have watched a huge number of Youtube videos of people building strip canoes, and it all looks reasonably straightforward.  However, all the online builders are working from plans, and don't have to make any design decisions. 

    My first design decision is how far to extend the front "keel".  It has to accommodate a 225mm diameter ring (to allow air into the engine compartment, and to provide for the prop shaft).  I don't actually know how to build this.

     

    This is what I've come up with so far...

     

    I'll build the fuselage in three sections.  The green section is a fairly straightforward "canoe".  The yellow section is a single piece cowl/engine covering.  And the orange section (as you can see) comprises the roof and the turtledeck

     

    Do I run a keel along the entire length of the green section?  And the yellow?  Or do I do this for all three sections?

     

    Are there any canoe builders on this forum who might be able to help with this?

    image.thumb.png.d3302e402814d8d149826724865d1663.png

    Regards,

    Duncan

  5. OK - the Fleabike fuselage is complete, windshield added and all sanded down.  Any suggestion regarding how to paint the Bike?

     

    I have some 117 fairing additive for West system, and I thought I might roll that on, sand it back and paint with West + pigment (white).  I'm leaving the control panels, seat, seatback (i.e. the upper central spine) natural wood, but painting the rest.

     

    Is there a better way?

     

    image.thumb.png.810e537c88f48de330472b300a7d77df.png

  6. Hi, Plenty of maths involved in the optimal placement of CG, wing articulation (front and optionally also the rear) and so on (in fact I wrote a whole 30-page paper on this), but as kasper says, a lot of the rest draws heavily from existing designs (for example, the HM293 on which the Fleabike is firmly based) and others. As far as the undercarriage is concerned, after some initial thought experiments (quickly shot down by experienced and knowledgeable forum members, both here and elsewhere), it is now essentially the undercarriage of the HM293 prettied up a bit. Same for the
  7. Interesting. Well, certainly cheaper than 4130... Me? Whack the ground? 😄
  8. I've just checked my HM293 plans, and it seems that they specify 25mm OD, 22mm ID. Am I reading this correctly?
  9. I concur. 25mm it is. I'll keep my box of 20mm foam riblets for another project perhaps. Ha ha - I have so many let overs from this project "perhaps for a future project" that I need a separate shed to house them all!
  10. Hi again, I am equipping the Fleabike with 18-inch tundra tyres, and no spring damping at all. I am relying on the big soft tyres to do all the damping for me. But yes, a study of the HM293 is certainly on the cards today. Duncan
  11. Hi, See post above/below. Various lengths. My only concern is whether I need to go with 25mm tube vs 20mm OD Duncan
  12. Hi, Good to hear that our methods are identical, if not the means of getting the riblets cut. I also intend to cut end plates out of ply, and a straight sanding block to tidy up any bits and pieces. Mine are now cut and in a box. The only trouble is I made the steel strut hole 20mm OD - I'm thinking I should have made it 25mm? Thoughts? The carbon rods are just for alignment - they get removed when the foam has been bonded. a one metre length of 4mm CF rod is about $8 from hobby shops. Similar aluminium/brass etc is a bit cheaper, but this is a tool, not part of the stru
  13. Hi there, All options are on the table at the moment. I'll probably end up giving a few of them a go, and seeing which one works best. But the folded AL sheet idea is a good contender. Might be the subject of a nice photo-post for all to see. Duncan
  14. Hi guys, Thanks for your suggestions, but I've given this some more thought, and because I don't have any of the kit needed to hotwire foam, this is what I've decided to do. Materials required: 2x 25mm steel (or aluminium) tubes 1x sheet XPS foam (local hardware store, $12.50) 2x steel/aluminium/brass/carbon fibre rods (4mm diameter) Method: Chop the foam sheet (1200mm x 600mm x 30mm) into a zillion 100mm chord "riblets" Grease up the tube and the big hole in the riblets with West epoxy Thread required number of the riblets onto
×
×
  • Create New...