rick morawski

Oooherr could you send one to me too? [email protected] or maybe just post it up.

Cheers

Rick

Yes I did. And email sent.Have fun!

 

Let me know if I screwed up some way

oot em rof ypoc a

Yes I did. And email sent.Have fun!

 

Let me know if I screwed up some way

Broken Hill, NSW has a cafe on the airfield. Plus the flying club has a couple small accommodation units on field, great if your just passing through and want to get an early start. The local pizza shop also deliver out to the strip, what more could you want?

Rick

Thanks GuysRick, I checked the wiring in my Sav S and to the wiring diagram. My "C" terminal is connected to the voltmeter (white w red stripe wire). My "B" terminal connects (through 50amp fuse) to the starting solenoid terminal whihc connects to the battery +ve.

 

Is that right?

Hi, has anyone ever had any issues with their rectifier /regulator on their 912ULS?Must be the rectifier/regulator?

Cheers

Rick

I see you have the rdac unit on the firewall inside the cowl…..what about the heat inside the cowl ? I have mine placed inside the cabin on the right hand side on a bracket I made on two of the inside skin longhorns

My only concern with the solid rods would be engine movement on the mount this would shift the rpm a bit I would think…have you done any engine runs yet?

The double cables JG suggests are good, but I like to have two throttles, just my preference.

I have been asked to show my throttle setup so here it is.

I used standard GA type throttle controls with solid wire (can push and pull) connected to the throttle torque tube crank on the firewall (drilled an extra hole). From there to the carb connection I used 1/4" CrMo tube tapped out (left hand thread one end) and spherical bearings at each end. This removes the cable problem from the equation and super easy carb balancing.

Most everybody asks "What about the motor movement on startup?" You would think it affects it but I haven't experienced it, it runs extremly smooth and rarely needs adjusting for sync. One installation has over 600 hrs no probs. I also add that this was not my idea. I saw it on a web page ages ago, University of Hawaii Engineering or something. They (students) built a CH701 and didn't like the cables either, so used the rods. I've copied the idea on 3 or 4 aircraft, no probs. Use it if you like, don't if you don't.

Cheers

Rick

That fuse is just a final protection circuit…I left mine in as it will take ages to blow in the scheme of things. Fuses are the last line of defence not the the first..circuit breakers are the main line and will protect the circuit a lot better..the 50 amp one is for when all else fails

Your throttles are they the friction ones…. 3 ft?about $76.00 ?

I'll take some photos tomorrow a post up a new thread in the Sav forum.

I am doing a new dash totally will also be rehashing the stupid bowden cable arrangement for the 2 carbys for shorter runs as this was the source of my engine running rough which started the mishap on landing. Where did you source your air gizmo iPad mini from??? one of the online shops here? I never liked electric flaps that comes from the days when I was flying a C172 many years ago so decided I like the good old manual ones. Some people like them but I don't…gives you more manual options with the original setup to pump the flaps if you need to for a quick takeoff.Mark

I like the pNEL RICKYOUR STARTER SWITCH YOU HAVE PUT DOWN ON THE SWITCH BAR ALSO THE THROLLES…HOW HAVE YOU DONE THOSE THROTTLES THEY LOOK LIKE THE ONES FROM AIRCRAFT SPRUCE BUT ITS DUAL?????..crap sorry about the caps not going to retype…..what are the tabs/switches above the trim switch and indicator…I see you have fitted a glovebox as well. It looks like you didn't use the bottom switch cover rail either

 

Is she flying yet?

The little switch panel above the trim is elect flaps controller, I can set the flaps to up, half or full with a button push without taking my hand off the throttle. Yes the throtle controls are from ACS, they go to the throttle torque tube thingmy same as the solid rods, but i like them down on the lower panel - comes easier to hand I think, also easier to take out the panel without having to dismantle your throttles.

I have been pondering an anomaly in the Savannah wiring, that is I reckon the fuse in the charge circuit is way bigger than is recommended in the Rotax installation manual. They (ICP) include a whopping 50A fuse for the purpose but the Rotax manual recommends 25A max or serious probs could occur. Any other builders noticed this and what if any changes have you made? I am completly rewiring my Sav due to installing an EFIS and have left the 50A fuse out and put a 30A circuit breaker in instead.(I couldn't get a 25A breaker)

Let the forum speak.

Yes please RickCan you post sone pics of the install

Second one shows the panels in situ. They are two separate parts on either side of the airgizmo panel. The right panel has a glove box in to fill it up a bit because it looked a bit sparce, also handy for POH and what nots.

Still got to finish the wiring but getting there, hoping to have it finished and test time flown before Natflly.

Has anyone used the Airgizmo iPad mini dash mount?

Yes i have installed the airgizmo ipad mini mount in my Sav S, havn't got the ipad yet though it should arrive tomorrow.

Had to make a new panel in two parts with the ipad in the middle, got rid of all the engine instruments to make room and used a MGL Extreme for engine monitor. Can post some photos if you want.

Cheers

Rick

Looks fantasic, but don't just tease us with one photo, give us more!!!

Have you flown it yet?

Cheers

Rick

Sorry Mark, I do know your name!!

Hi Kyle

Are you going to get new ali bits from ICP or just copy /make them out of sheet ali ?

I reckon you could make them pretty quick.

Rick

Hi Cam

I think your kit would have the upgrade, just look at the forward strut attachment that sticks out the bottom of the wing. If there is a short piece of plate held in between the two attachment plates with two A5 rivets then it is already upgraded. My kit is 54-195 and it came with the upgrade done.

As for the paperwork and placard supplied with your kit, who knows when they will catch up with that.

Cheers

Rick

Glad you and the pax are OK, go out and have a fly soon before the heebies get to you. I had the same problem of actuating the brakes while turning, to the point where I adjusted the brake pedals further forward and made it part of my on final checks to have my heels down.

Thanks for sharing.

Rick

Thanks Kev, I have been looking for these for ages too.

Old K, the submit button is way down the bottom.

Cheers

Rick

Awsome skills demonstrated here!! Hypnotic to watch the metal almost turn to fluid.

Methinks there is potential disasters waiting here for the amature player.

Hi ave8rr

If you are referring to Savannah 19-4138, I installed the upgrade kit in that aircraft myself when it was mine.

I don't recall what info was sent to RAAus as it was while ago. You can call me on 0409 778 021 if you want info on the aircraft.

Cheers

Rick

Many thanks Bill. This is what I have been trying to find out. I had asked the importer for this info but was never supplied the answer. Purchasers of the early Savs now know what to look for.Does any one know if RAAus are given documentary evidence of the upgrade kit having been installed when re registering the Sav to the higher 560Kg MTOW?

 

Cheers

Ha! I was wondering if someone would pick that up!! Well the bath got put in after the plane was finished. If they came back today the picture would be much the same, except with a Savannah S in the garage and the garden still not done, one must pioritize things you know.

What i find amazing is you get to build a plane while the bath still needs to be put in.

I saw this on Google Earth (street view). I was building a Sav XL a while back when the Google Earth car went wizzing past before I could do anything rude for the photo. I took ages for them to load it up but when I looked recently there it was. Bit of fun really.

Cheers Rick

Hi Bob

Regarding your request for advice -

I put a fully clear roof on my first plane, a Sav classic with the slats, back when they came in alu with a little trapezoid shaped window. I thought the all clear roof would be good for visibility etc. but later I hated it because it got so damn hot under it on long flights, especially in summer, so I ended up putting the origional back in with one of those stick on shades on the window.

Later on I have put an aluminium roof on a VGXL, From memory I used 20 or 25 thou 2024 sheet and just used the plastic roof as a template. On the underside I insulated with 16mm black sponge rubber from Clarke Rubber, then covered with the grey light weight carpet. Worked well, no burnt head or sun reflection on instrument faces. I also did another one with an alu roof but with the smaller window insert like the older Sav's had. I have seen painted lexan as well so that can be done, but I would prefer the alu replacement instead.

Hope this helps

Rick