rick morawski

Wal did mention that I will have to get one I just dropped the level a small amount and it stopped leaking but now are still loosing pressure ,the gasket is made out of paper material and seems to be to hard to seal ,back in my motorcycle mechanic days I reckon they were made of neoprene can't understand why Bing don't do the same. The 912 engine don't pressurise the float bowls so it doesn't matter , starting to reach for some sort of sealer don't know what else to do.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rotax-Reusable-Float-Bowl-Gasket-Nitrile-830-727-/321586624037?hash=item4ae00e7625:m:m6ZZ-OQdP_zWSpmlT9Z28YQ&vxp=mtr

GREAT... just what I wanted ...although it says 38 lts max while the capacity is 36 ???thanks Rick

Australian dealer sends out stickers that you place between fuel level meter and says level, and another sticker mentioning how many liters each line is.

Hi all,is there any fuel gauge stick calibrated for the Savannah tanks that are available...or some measurements that I can duplicate.

 

thanks

Make a dipstick using these measurements.

Dip all tanks and add together as the levels can vary between tanks.

Cheers

Rick

savannah fuel calibration.pdf

savannah fuel calibration.pdf

savannah fuel calibration.pdf

[/quote="rotax618, post: 545223, member: 3283]"The problem with a rigid connection betweer the carb and the firewall is the movement of the engine under thrust load, this is particularly bad on the VG bed mount models. I used a bowden cable with a slight kink (the same amount of kink each side) this allows the engine some movement without moving the throttle.

Have you tried it?

I have put these rods on five or six savannahs, bed mount and ring mount and have never had any problems.

I was cautious on the first one (a bed mount), but thought hey I can just go back to Bowden cables. So I made a set and they worked a treat, no vibration problems, and adjusting carb balance is micrometer fine.

Rick where did you source the ball links and the rods also the threaded ends for the rods and the extensions for the throttle bar. I was talking about vibration affecting the solid rod install but with a ring mount the engine hardly moves . The bed mount is a different story though, the engine moves quite a bit from the ones I have seen

Spherical bearings - p/no MB-3 (male left hand thread 3/16 unf). p/no MM-3 (male right hand thread 3/16 unf)

AN315-3R locknut r/h, AN315-3L locknut l/h

connecting rod/tube - cromo tube 1/4"O/D .035" wall p/no 03-00300

Worked out the length of the tube ( from memory 300mm one side, 320 the other, but check), tapped out the tube l/h one end, r/h one end, boltedto carb lever and throttle torque tube arm with an3 bolts and locknuts.

The stepped washer on the carb throttle lever protrudes a bit and has to be filed down just a little so the bolt tightens down onto the lever arm and the center of the bearing then takes the rotation.

I used the cromo tube early on but later have changed to 6061-t651 5/16" hex bar, which of course you have to drill and tap whereas the cromo tube could just be tapped out, no drilling.

Hi Hasse,

All the parts came from aircraft spruce-

the cable outer grip part no. 05-16250 on the firewall (i did use a swivelling one but can't find the part no for that one)

the inner wire gripper part no. 05-16245.

Cheers

Rick

Page 7-F-1 dated sept 2003

Anyone knows where these two parts fit?

Can't say positively without a better picture, cross section view.

For now im doing the Pilot operating handbook,

Cheers

Rick

Lyndon, see that claw hammer.

Before I close up the wings. I see some people have lights or strobes. I don't need these to legally fly the plane.Lyndon

glue it over the holes with sikaflex.

I usually cleco top and nose top, then rivet the entire top, so the bottom part of the nose skin is hanging down, then flip over (someone to help is good) and cleco bottom and two trailing edge skins, then use straps and a long piece of timber to bring the leading edge back around to the main spar, then a lot of wiggling the podger to get the main spar clecoes in and rivet up. Piece of pi**

That's how I do it, the way you suggested would work as well.

Just thought- don't put rivets in the top skin tank space because they will rub against the plastic tank and possibly cause a leak. Just cut a strip of skin from the scrap cutout about 20-25 wide and glue it over the holes with sikaflex.

Thanks Rick , i hope to leave early as possible to get away from heat, climb higher if at all that will help.. one awaits . haha. Cheers .

what stops it flapping around.

Monday 18th /19th will be an interesting 2 days . Rex flight from Sydney to BHQ . Looks hot again too , luckily not as hot as last week .Tue 19th - leave early from BHI to ferry a Savvy back to ybth , plan at moment will be Cobar, Dubbo and Bathurst .

 

If i manage phone service, will pop up some pics online.

 

This will first time to Broken Hill and Cobar .. look forward to it .

Enjoy the trip, I await the photos.

Cheers

Rick

Thank you. When I get to the bottom skin is the same applied. Thanks Lyndon

I take it these two angulars are not not fitted with the long range tanks ???Lyndon

About to cut. Now before I do. What are these holes used for. I have three the same out of the four. I'm thinking it should be two and two. If they are just a vent I'm sure it doesn't matter.Lyndon

The 10 mm hole that has to be moved is the existing one I take it.Lyndon

Wings and long range tanks. I have bought the long range tanks. About to skin the wings. Any tips. I'm thinking skin the top as per manual. Dummy fit the tanks and cut the filler hole. Then rivet up the top skin. Flip it over and fit the bottom skin. With the tank in place I can then cut it accurately. Basically dummy fit up. Common sense then cut.Any tips would be great. Nothing in the manual re the long range tanks.

 

Thanks Lyndon

Easier if you cut the holes for the extra tank while the skin is on the bench (uninstalled)

Basically just copy the existing holes to the next outboard bay and cut out.

Rivet up all the skins then install the tanks making sure you centre the filler neck in the hole.

run the hoses and rivet on the covers and jury strut attachments.

Note that the 10mm hole for the vent line will have to be moved inboard a little as it intersects with the edge of the extra tank

I have three of these. I have three wheels. Am I missing something ???They are steel and look to same as my fuselage cage.

Lyndon

Chapter 20 page 1

Chapter 21 page 1

The brakes are absolute junk. Nothing fits. The spacers don't. It also looks like to remove the wheel you remove the rotor first. That with unsealed bearings. What an absolute mish mash

Yes the older brakes were not the best, they have improved since, but unless you spend big bucks like Skee and buy Behringer replacements you just make do. Note that the older models like yours will expose the seal on the piston when the disc pads are only about 2/3rds worn and empty your fluid on the ground- not good if your doing a short landing! Remedy is to glue a 50 cent piece on top of the piston when they are about half worn. Crude but works.

Most people use Auto trans fluid for brake fluid. Use the low strength pink loctite on the screws when you put the discs back on unless you're going to drill and lock wire them.

I need some advice how to fit long range tanks into my Savannah VG.Some say that I have to take the wings off to do it , others that it is possible to do it with the wings on the plane. Also that fuel taps before lines get to the header tank are a must . What about additional weight (stress) further away from from the fuselage . Or is it too much trouble? Thanks in advance

I have fitted the extra tanks to quite a few Savs in the past, never took the wings off.

It certainly pays to have experience with aluminium aircraft work as you have to cut holes in the bottom skins, cut a circular hole in the top skin, derivet the inboard tank cover to run and connect hoses, etc. usually takes a day to complete, so no not a real hard job.

I know a lot of people fit taps to the fuel lines, but they are not a must. I have done many without taps - keep it simple theory, you choose.

If you wanted to do it you can order a kit with tanks, brackets and support beams from Reg at Aerokits.

Cheers

Rick