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About Bodie

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  • Birthday 01/01/1963


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    Savannah S
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  1. Thanks again, gentlemen! The aluminum is in the scrap bin! IBob, I'm a bit confused here being on the other side of the world and the other side of the equator. Did you mean 1/4"BSP? Which I would guess would equate to 1/4" NPT... I like the looks of that setup and will do the same. I have 4 tanks and only plan on using the two inboard. I bought stainless steel tubing and ran that through the wing to the cabin. Except for the short hose connecting the tank hose barb to the tubing, I have no rubber hose running through the wing ribs . I figured it would be easy to replace a
  2. Thanks guys! Kyle Communications, what size cables are you using in your Sav? Also, I'm getting to where I'm going to plumb the fuel header tanks, and I like your 4 valve setup. Was that a 1/4" npt block you used? With 1/4" stubby ball valves? I looked through the other posts and couldn't seem to find the size. The Sav kit does a great job of switching between metric and sae (kind of like our John Deere farm equipment!
  3. My S kit has an aluminum positive cable. Are the older kits copper or aluminum? Easy enough to cross reference the carrying capacity I guess.
  4. Thanks IBob and Jabiru7252. I noticed on the Savannah S I was learning in that the carb heat was slow in recording change during run up. That makes sense. Also, I hear what you're saying on not relying on the airframe as the ground. On all our ag equipment the most common cause of electronic problems short of failure are related to insufficient or corroded grounds. What gage wire do folks use for the "additional" ground?
  5. Great IBob! That all makes absolute perfect sense. If only the manual were so! I'm getting to the point on this build that I can see the end. I don't know what I would do if it weren't for this site and all the help. Right now I'm waiting for some parts that were missing from the kit, a couple that I inadvertently buggered up, and some parts from Aircraft Spruce. I need some decent weather for my "Big Sky Shop Paint Booth" (relatively warm, bug free day).
  6. Hello fellow Savannah Builders, I have 4 wiring questions. After scouring the manuals (both Rotax and Savannah) and the forum I can't seem to find the answer. 1) The first pic is the backside of the airbox and outside air temp guage. Can someone tell me to which points the two signal wires attach? 2&3) The second pic is the wiring near the ECU. I think I have the brown wires correct? and, where do the two blue wire go? 4) There is a black wire coiled up near the ECU. Where does it go? Thanks guys. -steve
  7. Thanks for your patience. I get what your saying now. The bolts is just for initial alignment, and the bracket is really just an extension of the aileron rather than the aileron being an extension of the bracket. I was thinking about it bass-ackwards! -steve
  8. I've been giving this aileron pivot a bit of thought (maybe to the point of over-analyzing it!) and I just don't like a metal edge on a bolt. I'm thinking of machining a round piece of plastic 15mm or so in depth and pressing it into the hole and drilling it to the dimension of the bolt for more bearing surface. Has anyone looked at one of these with some hours on it, and is the wear acceptable? I'm wondering what Kyle Communications saw on his re-build... Thoughts?
  9. Thank you, I was beginning to lose confidence in my self! Here I am with fuse built, tail feathers built, wings built, engine installed, and losing faith that I've done anything right! It seems that would be a nice bit of info to have, and if it is in the manual I surely couldn't find it..... Thanks again. -steve
  10. Hi again folks. First off, thanks to you all for bearing with me. I appreciate all the helpful folks on this forum. I can't seem to decipher the manual, the parts list or find that the question has been previously raised on this forum. How is the bracket held on the the protruding bolt inside this tube? I also notice that the bolt is drilled for a cotter pin. Thanks all! -steve
  11. By tying the fuselage down I was able to get the lower L shaped bracket pulled up tight with a lift and pulled back tight against the firewall (first pic)... I was then able to pull it tight to the aluminum angle (second pic)... Third pic is where the top motor mount lined up for me in conjuction with the lightening hole. At this position it matched the cabin frame. Notice the arrow pointing to the test hole that was wrong...(just another lightening hole now.... The middle holes were a breeze! -steve
  12. I bought my kit in two parts. The fuselage and firewall forward (motor mount, motor, guages etc). The motor mount bolts and washers were in the firewall forward kit in a separate bag. After removing the two rivets on each side of the aluminum angulars as recommended by folks in the previous posts, I held the front of the fuselage down at the lower nose gear bracket, then lifted the motor mount up with a cherry picker while pulling rearward on the motor mount with a ratchet strap attached to the main gear. By pulling the mount rearward I actually moved the hole I was to drill almost 1
  13. Thanks guys! I appreciate the help. In most places the instruction are excellent, and in some places, less than stellar. It seems that there is so much that depends on the cabin being tied correctly to the motor mount through the firewall. I'm just pleased that I finally got my firewall forward kit. It was a little over a year process as Covid shut Italy down for quite some time. Glad to be back at it! -steve
  14. I have a question on how the motor mount attaches to the lower aluminum angles on my Savannah S. The lower motor mount bracket is L shaped and it is supposed to attach to the aluminum angular. However, the aluminum angular has two rivets attaching it to the forward end of the cabin floor. Am I to get the L shaped motor mount as tight as possible and drill the bolt hole so that it is tight up against the rivets or am I supposed to remove the rivits so the the L shaped motor mount is tight to the aluminum angle? Thank you. -steve
  15. Quick question here. I'm putting the top lexan roof ribs in over the diagonal cabin tubes, and am wondering if there is one way of doing it that works better than another. One rib doesn't go completely inside the other rib, does it? I just flew with Valter Del Nebbia in a factory built in Fort Worth last week and the top ribs were covered in carpet so I couldn't tell. Thank you in advance! -steve Document (1).pdf
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