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About IBob

  • Rank
    Well-known member
  • Birthday 22/04/1948


  • Aircraft
    Savannah S
  • Location
  • Country
    New Zealand

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  1. And PS to the above. Why it is a really bad idea to be moving holes, effectively moving the steel part at this location: 1. It houses and mounts the undercarriage, and so defines the angle of the undercarriage sits at. 2. It is the attachment point for the wing struts, so any small movement will affect wing dihedral.
  2. Rmorton, I have a suggestion for you before you start moving holes at such a critical location: Take an accurate pattern of the holes from the steel part: to do this you will need stiff paper/thin card, cut into a 'C' to fit round the part. Then see how the holes of this pattern line up with the holes in the fuse side. I suggest this because my own initial difficulty with these parts had nothing to do with the position of the bolt and rivet holes (which, like yours, would not line up). The reason was that the steel part was fouling the sides of the rectangular hole in t
  3. It is an absolutely critical piece, both in terms of location and structural strength. The holes line up accurately and without difficulty. Check the pics I posted.
  4. If a door won't shut, you can try slamming it progressively harder. Or you can look to see why.
  5. First things forts Rmorton: First things first Rmorton: please tell me you are not lining stuff up by 'bashing it with a hammer'??????????? There is no way you should be bashing anything on an airframe with a hammer.
  6. I don't suffer from motion sickness normally, but once took some medication before embarking on a racing yacht in the middle of a stormy night. It seemed like a good idea at the time. I lost my dinner after a couple of hours (I think most of us did), that was okay. But what I really didn't like was the weird after-affects of the meds. So if I was looking at taking meds to help with something like aerobatics, I would definitely be trying them beforehand to make sure they didn't make me feel weird.
  7. Steve, someone here may correct me, and I'm happy to know if I've got it wrong. But I'm pretty confident I've got that right. As for the little brass bearings in the hangers, some folk get a lot of wear there, and there are various upsized replacement schemes. But I'm pretty sure the wear comes from having them too loose: it is the relative tightness that prevents the bearing tilting. I have 130hrs on my S now, with no detectable wear to those bearings. A VG on the field has 800+hrs, also with no significant wear.
  8. Bodie, I think I'm right in saying that the VG Savannah (and the Zenith 701 before it) have no pivot point there at all. The way it works is the (inboard) flaperon is a rigid unit that pivots on it's two wing hangars. Those are the aileron pivots doing all the work, not that inboard pivot. More important is to set those flaperon to wing hanger pivots up correctly: nip them up tight, then back them off until they are just loose before inserting the splitpin. Then check them again after a few hours, they want to be a snug as possible , but still rotate freely. This way you avoid
  9. Rmorton, I would suggest making a new hole next to the damaged one, but not too close, perhaps 3 diameters minimum distance? Hopefully you can then (also) close off the damaged hole with a rivet. To reduce the possibility of damage to the holes, it is good to have tapered podgers that fit the hole size correctly when inserted. For the smaller holes I used tapered awls. For the larger holes I bought a set of cheap pin punches, and ground then polished a taper onto them.
  10. I asked the same question at that stage too, Steve. It's a great aircraft. But we all have our moments with the manual, believe me!
  11. Hi Bodie. It's not held on. The bolt, which is welded at it's head onto it's backing plate (SF341), acts as a pivot point, and that is all. (When you assemble the inner flaperon/s to the wings, they pivot on the wing hangers, and this maintains the lateral position of the flaperons. The lever SS410/411 is then bolted to the inboard end of the flaperon with the 3bolts shown. So no nut or other hardware is required on SF341.) It's a good idea to make sure the steelwork SS410/411 is well primed, especially inside the tubular part of it, as this is an area that may corrode
  12. I'd like to listen to it, Garfly, but I just don't think I can do 90 minutes at that pace.......(
  13. There's another elephant in the room (or moose in the bar) here: the assumption that field maintenance personnel are all capable of maintaining and refurbishing machinery to the same standard as the plant that assembled the original item. In the case of aircraft, where maintenance personnel seem to be held up as shining of examples of perfection, we may like to think this is the case. But in reality I doubt it very much. All of which is to say it can be a really good idea not to set about fixing it if it aint broke.......in my view.......
  14. Hi Marty, I have no practical experience of fibreglassing, but this: do use a gelcoat first if you can, otherwise you will a have a myriad of tiny pinholes in the finished product, which require repeated filling and sanding, and are surprisingly difficult to get rid of.
  15. The Savannah has a float operated reed switch in the top of the receiver tank, an indicator light at the RH instrument panel, and a test button. I have duplicated the indicator at the LH with a large flashing LED (from RS Components). It is important to know that the test button only tests the indicators, not the reed switch (and they can fail). So I periodically test the entire circuit by starting and taxiing with all tanks valved off. My preflight checks always include a run through the fuel system, from level gauges through tank and isolator valves to fuel pump,
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