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About IBob

  • Rank
    Well-known member
  • Birthday 22/04/1948


  • Aircraft
    Savannah S
  • Location
  • Country
    New Zealand

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  1. Parts of that movie were shot........in typical British shoestring style........at Booker aerodrome, near High Wycombe, where I grew up. At one point someone makes a forced landing into what is meant to be a sewage farm (typical British toilet humour, wot?), they made that by flooding a small plastic lined area and floating crushed cork on the top. Booker was one of the surviving large round grass airfields (no vectors, just take off and land into wind, regardless of direction), also housed RAF Avro Ansons, which were used for navigation training, back when that was done with a sex
  2. I have enjoyed dipping into your postings here, Red. Thank you for your time and your effort......)
  3. Bell, there is real depth of Savannah experience in Australia, while here in New Zealand we are a bit later to the party. I think I'd be right in saying most Savannahs in this part of the world run 100hp Rotax 912 with a 3-bladed ground adjustable prop. Bolly, which is an Australian brand, are popular for the local builds, and I have been very happy with mine. As you can see on this site, there is also real interest in the E prop, which seems to be giving good results on various aircraft. And there is a fair bit of interesting and useful debate on how to arrive at best pitch.
  4. I would support that: I hate shotgunning (just swapping/adjusting stuff piecemeal until the problem goes away). It's the lowest form of troubleshooting.
  5. I would recommend going to JG's website Stolspeed and reading the Props Comparison (scroll down to find the link on the left): https://www.stolspeed.com/ It's an interesting and informative read on props, tested on JG's Savannah VG In fact, the whole site is interesting and informative.
  6. Yes, I can see what you are driving at, Mark. And I'll certainly try the adjustments you suggest. The bit I'm missing is why my mic would open this way during receive traffic, and not otherwise (I'm not responding to the traffic, just listening).
  7. Okay, I will certainly try the INTSQH. I guess the part I am not understanding here is, if this is noise coming in my mic, why do I not hear this noise until I have incoming radio traffic? Or, put another way, if noise into the mic and mic gain and Xcom mic vol are great enough to trigger the comms, would I not be hearing this noise all the time???
  8. Okay. The Xcom has among it's main Mode options: SIDEVOL (sidetone) INTVOL and INTSQH (intercom volume and squelch) Then among the Setup Options (which are accessed differently than the Mode options) it has: GAIN (adjusts mic gain The manual says GAIN should only be adjusted by a technician, as transceiver performance will be affected. I was adjusting the Zulu mic gain down, and trying to offset that by adjusting the Xcom GAIN up. What I should add is that the Zulu/Xcom combination has worked just fine out of the box, except for this
  9. Mark, what is the Vox adjustment you refer to? I can see no reference to that in the driving instructions...........
  10. Hi Mark, thanks for that. I was aware that the mic needs to be as close as possible to the lips, also that the mic needs to be turned to face the lips (this can lose alignment over time, and is not always obvious with the foam mic cover on...but it's easy to check by feel.) My Zulu mic gain settings were both at 12oclock, or just under half. The difficulty I struck was that once I turned them down to any degree from there, no amount of boosting of the mic audio on the radio would reliably pick them up. It occurred to me later that perhaps parameter adjustments in the radio are n
  11. Thanks, Dan. That's a useful bit of info, and something else to check. Am currently circling a problem of radio noise on reception that only occurs when at full power, and does not occur at all at normal cruise settings. So far I inspected and tidied up all the plug leads, spacing them wherever possible from the metalwork, then ground run up to 4500RPM (the brakes/tires won't hold beyond that) with reduced squelch to check for ignition noise.....but I have yet to check at full power. I have also sourced but not yet fitted a 12V power filter: I doubt this is the problem, b
  12. Hi again Luca. I found it essential to use all 3 sources of information during my build: 1. The written description in the manual. Though this is translated from Italian, and the English is sometimes 'strange', there is essential info there. 2. The illustrations in the manual. I found these very good. 3. The 'exploded' diagrams in the parts manual. I found these very helpful for identifying parts and also for order of assembly. I put these in a separate manual, to have it open alongside the assembly manual. Some dealers also supply sets of build pics, and I found these very
  13. Luca, if I remember correctly, the top and bottom rivets that fasten the nose rib/s to the main spar are A5. The rest of the rivets between those (that also hold the rear ribs to the main spar) are A4.
  14. Hi Luca. I cannot see where in my instructions it says to use A5 rivets to attach the ribs to the longerons. Can you post a picture of your instructions for this? My recollection for attaching the wing ribs to the main spar is that there are both A4 and A5 rivets, and you just use the rivet to fit the hole size. At no point in my build did I have to drill a hole to a bigger size. Also, from your picture the bottom rivet looks correctly pulled, but the top rivet looks like an A4 rivet in an A5 hole?
  15. It may not be an issue for your particular application, but be aware that some papers expand and contract considerably with varying humidity. I once made a very precise brown paper pattern for a shaped piece of glass, got it cut on a rainy day and it didn't fit.......
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