danny_galaga

Welcome aboard! I lived in Van City for six months years ago. You are so lucky to live in one of the most beautiful parts of the world. Every flight will be lovely I'm sure 🙂

1 hour ago, Marty_d said:

I did think of calling the thread "Another passenger jet in the Hudson!" but thought that may be in poor taste.

Not poor taste at all. That's funny and clever. You should get the title changed to that ☺️

Sorry pmccarthy, right you are. 

Onetrack, I think we can't know enough about the pilot to talk about suicide. That just comes off as ghoulish I think.

A couple of us here have blue oil line on our 912ULS. mine was supplied by my mechanic and it is fitted to other 912 he services. Can't remember brand or anything.

1 minute ago, pmccarthy said:

47 hours dual and only 4 solo seems a bit strange if I am reading it correctly.

I thought wed established he was converting from RPL or something. Maybe the 4 hours is PPL?

Third and fourth pic 🙂

51 minutes ago, skippydiesel said:

This crowd have an astonishing selection of battery isolator switches :

 

https://automotivesuperstore.com.au/electrical/batteries-accessories/battery-isolator-switches

 

So funny, if you look at the third and fourth pics, that's what I'm running now. The lil jigger and Narva battery switch 😄

I wasn't actually kidding Facthunter 😄

Check out this thread 

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/213831-dual-alternator-questions/

28 minutes ago, skippydiesel said:

 

Narva's go to 120 AMP.

 

Every battery to 150 AMP

 

Okay - what do you think an 80 Amp version, was doing on the negative side of a start battery,  in the boot of a muscle car??

 

Almost certainly for a stereo 

Very interesting, but it does circle back to the fact you need a pretty high amperage object to handle the starter motor cranking current if you want to isolate the whole battery. I personally would allow 500 amps cranking current for the Rotax starter. You might get away with say 200 amp but good chance you keep tripping it when trying to start.

I finally had the title changed to the correct wording so as not to continue any confusion 🙂

On 26/08/2023 at 7:58 AM, danny_galaga said:

Rotax 912

 

90° carby tube for choke cable. To get two of those genuine, about $150 Inc freight. Or go to Ali express 🙂

 

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/1005004164377398.html?spm=a2g0n.order_detail.order_detail_item.3.604cf19cHB72xq

 

I'm always mindful of cheap n cheerful. If it's something complicated and bespoke, I'll go genuine. But Rotax don't make the carbies, or the parts hanging off them. So why pay the Ro-tax?

Just realised I didn't put in the description that got me to this link. One day for sure the link will be dead, and no one will know what the description is! So here's the description in the link:

ZS Racing 90-degree Throttle Cable Adjuster For PHBG Keihin PWK PJ PWM PE Mikuni TM VM Carburetor Spare Parts

If the certified aircraft has a Rotax, I think you'll find spade connectors on our friend- the reg/rec 😄

You're still overthinking it for many ultralights. A switch alone can handle the current I'm talking about. What's the voltage drop across a good switch? It's pretty minimal, way less power loss than any superfluous extra wiring and doohickeys you have to add. More power less and more weight.

But if your objection is spade terminals, I present, for your edification 🙂

2 hours ago, Kyle Communications said:

Pictures and sizes of the SSR. also the heatsink on the back.

I like too that you replace the screws with small bolts and all connections are on lugs not those stupid spade connectors

 

I get that what is good about it is that you have a very low trigger current, which is especially useful if you wanted to trigger it with say a 555 timer or something, or where you have a big boy plane with a panel drawing 25amps and a 170 amp alternator bolted to that Lycoming 0360. But I am talking about ultralights here. The total output of the alternator is 17 amps. That's the total, but all the loads add up to maybe 5 amps through my (described rather than named because I admit I'm guilty of confusing terms) OFF/ON/START switch. But if for some reason I thought that was too heavy a load for that switch (which it isn't), why wouldn't I just use a 35amp automotive relay? That will have a switching current of maybe 200 mA. What is the SSR? 50mA? But it's constantly dumping power. So yes, only 50mA through the switch, but several amps as heat through the heatsink, while the 35amp relay is only losing 200mA total.

The original query was about total isolation of the battery. To do that needs something that can handle the cranking current of the starter. Which is either a giant relay (which is why I started the thread since I hated the idea) or a giant switch AKA a battery isolation switch. 

Gotta keep it simple on an ultralight, especially with only 17 amps to play with 🙂

Quick, you only have 15 minutes!

16 minutes ago, facthunter said:

OF similarly "Brained" children.. It  doesn't take Brains to procreate. There is a fair amount of evidence of the Brian not working at the time.  Nev

Life of Brian?

He's not the Messiah, he's just a very naughty boy!

I don't care about what 'gay' means to anyone. The one that annoys me the most is AWESOME

Having  a particularly nice sandwich AND seeing a volcano blowing up and enveloping the town  below in ash and lava cannot both be 'awesome'. 

57 minutes ago, skippydiesel said:

Seems to me that, in my lifetime,  there has been a trend away from precise language - popular news  media the likely source of the problem.

EG

"Petrol" seems to mean any liquid fuel used to power a vehicle.

"Fertility" describes almost all matters associated mammalian reproduction.

"Bathroom" covers facilities for depositing  bodily waste and cleaning oneself.

The all encompassing "Cessna" meaning a small aircraft.

"Gay" no longer means happy

and on and on

Geez, how old are you? Gay has meant homosexual since the 1930s 😅

32 minutes ago, Blueadventures said:

Yep, that's the tube one I mentioned, but the image one is best.  Just get one next time you order something, consider two so you have one in plane for away trips.  Ian has them in store.

I already bought a long tubey one from Clear Prop. But if the plastic pin goes on it I'll either "borrow" the cup I found, else fit a steel pin to my tubey one 🙂

Would you believe I just found one in the hangar 😄

But I like the long tubey ones. Doubles as screwdriver for the cowl, and long and tall means it's easier to see water in it. The new one works well. Best would be long tubey one with a steel pin 🙂

6 minutes ago, Thruster88 said:

Turning off the master in any certified VH aircraft definitely means isolation of the battery at the battery.  

Yes, and it does that by switching off a big relay/solenoid. I'm very happy to have avoided that by just having a giant switch 🙂

And there can't be any confusion about what the switch does- it's big and red and has a picture of a battery on it 😄

2 minutes ago, Thruster88 said:

A good test to do now Danny is measure your unusable fuel. Pump all the fuel out of the tank with the boost pump and then catch the remaining fuel from the two tank drains. Always good to know this.

Yes, this is great advice. Maybe not today, but before it gets flying 🙂

Yeah, I did try to stick a fuel drain in the bung last week thinking "surely that hole means something". But I borrowed someone's fuel drain, with a plastic pin. It's so old it was just bending. But it worked in the gascolator. But now I have a new fuel tester so just for shits and giggles tried it. Waddaya know 🙂

I feel bad for bending the other guys fuel drain so I bought him a new one too. 

10 minutes ago, skippydiesel said:

I am very intersted Blue - Is this what you are referring to? What experince do you have? Are there others, suitable for aircraft?

 

See my post above, I guess I have these flush mounted drains

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/curtisflushmounted_05-04888.php

😄