slartibartfast Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 I am replacing my master avionics switch. It got a little intermittent the last few flights. There are 3 wires on one side and 2 on the other. We originally soldered the wires to the switch terminals. This means the solder is doing the mechanical work as well as the electrical. What's the right way to join the wires and attach them to the switch terminals via spades? Thanks, Ross Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly_tornado Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 You should use F connectors to connect to spades. There is a good video on the eaa website on how to do wiring with F connectors. the top part of the F holds the wire and insulation and the bottom holds the wire. http://narva.com.au/products/browse/noninsulated-trade Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakej Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 I am replacing my master avionics switch. It got a little intermittent the last few flights.There are 3 wires on one side and 2 on the other. We originally soldered the wires to the switch terminals. This means the solder is doing the mechanical work as well as the electrical. What's the right way to join the wires and attach them to the switch terminals via spades? Thanks, Ross Ross Anyway you want but my preference is via spade terminal ie the AMP brand not the cheapy auto type, and use a quality double crimper not the single jaw type. You can also solder instead, just don't get too much heat into the switch, 'tin' the wires first. Maybe I'll see if I can do an AVionics/Wiring forum at Natfly next year, would be good to get some feedback if this is what members want. Jake J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slartibartfast Posted May 2, 2011 Author Share Posted May 2, 2011 Thanks guys. I have a quality crimper. The main problem is how to join the 3 wires - they won't all fit into a spade connector. One thought I had was to put each wire into a ring connector and bolt them together with one leading to a spade. Do it again for the pair. Both spades then onto the switch. I would support the bolts so they don't move around. Another thought was that there must be a proper bus type product out there. A forum would be good Jake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakej Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 Thanks guys. I have a quality crimper. The main problem is how to join the 3 wires - they won't all fit into a spade connector.One thought I had was to put each wire into a ring connector and bolt them together with one leading to a spade. Do it again for the pair. Both spades then onto the switch. I would support the bolts so they don't move around. Another thought was that there must be a proper bus type product out there. A forum would be good Jake. A yellow spade connector will work, unless you are using 14 Gauge wiring. Give me a call if you need one.0412 624 723 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 0412 624 723 end_of_the_skype_highlighting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slartibartfast Posted May 2, 2011 Author Share Posted May 2, 2011 Thanks Jake. So, solder them and feed them into a yellow spade? Sounds good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakej Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 Thanks Jake.So, solder them and feed them into a yellow spade? Sounds good. Crimp only if you have the yellow spade. Do you have the AMP (aircraft quality -not price) type ? Jake J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slartibartfast Posted May 2, 2011 Author Share Posted May 2, 2011 Yep. Nothing but the best for my little baby. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakej Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 Yep. Nothing but the best for my little baby. Good on you !! Sometimes you can get these from places like Repco under the Narva brand but I've noticed that the same item/part number can have the 2 different quality crimps in the packaging, also some of the kit manufacturers can have varying quality terminals supplied with their electrical options. As you obviously know, what to look for is the metal 'sleeve' inside the plastic covering needs to be almost the full length of the crimped part - this results in the most secure termination and no WTF moments. Jake J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubbleboy Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 Hi Jake....a forum on wiring and all things electrical next Natfly would be great! Things like terminals and bus bars etc. Natfly needs more things like this. I would love to see one on installing instruments and how to connect the pitot and static lines etc. Scotty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakej Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 Hi Jake....a forum on wiring and all things electrical next Natfly would be great! Things like terminals and bus bars etc. Natfly needs more things like this. I would love to see one on installing instruments and how to connect the pitot and static lines etc.Scotty Great we'll see how the 'feedback' goes and I can do something on instruments too. Panels are my passion - especially ergonomic design. I checked out your website and can make some suggestions about your panel if you wish, just pm me. Jake J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest davidh10 Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 ...The main problem is how to join the 3 wires - they won't all fit into a spade connector.... My 912 uses a multi-connector Spade. ie Female to plug onto the back of the switch and 3 x male for attaching wires. If you solder wires, ensure that they are sleeved with heat-shrink to provide support to the joint and prevent any mechanical stress on the point to which the solder wicks up the wire. If that point gets mechanical stress, it will eventually fail. Multiple wires joined (in a loom) in this way should have staggered joints so that if insulation breaks down on two joints, no short occurs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly_tornado Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 the Eaa videos cover how to splice and solder wires. the other option is to use a translucent closed end crimp. the closed end crimps are a snap to use and are a lot faster than soldering wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denmit Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 If you're the Jake J ex-Canberra, I would certainly attend such a Natfly forum, Jake. I well remember the beautiful work you did when you worked from YSCB, including on your own Experimental. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piet Fil Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 JakeJ, If you run it I will come. Either the instrument/ergo design or the aircraft wiring would be great at the next natfly. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakej Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 If you're the Jake J ex-Canberra, I would certainly attend such a Natfly forum, Jake. I well remember the beautiful work you did when you worked from YSCB, including on your own Experimental. That's me thanks for the vote. Am trying to work out who Slarti is and if I knew him from my CB days. Jake J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yenn Posted May 4, 2011 Share Posted May 4, 2011 Have a look at AC43 13 1B, which is the bible for aircraft maintenance. Look at Bob Nuckolds site for aviation electrial work. It is usually considered better to use crimp connections than soldered for the reason that soldered connections have a habit of breaking at the end of the solder. You will get good connections even if you use automotive crimp connections, and they will be cheaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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