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I forgot? Oh! Is a coil a coil?


Callahan

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Thanks Don!

 

Every comment is worth something at this point! Believe me.

 

My KIA Sorento with wire platinum plugs has gone 174,000+ miles on the same plugs. I still get same mileage as new.

 

However, I've done the plug gaping & installed new plugs NGK-B8ES, new leads, changed plug caps, gone through six sets of coils etc. No help. As soon as it goes beyond 3500 rpm up to 5k, it's vibrating heavily.

 

Will post a YouTube video soon.

 

Thank you!

 

A friend a few years ago discussed fine wire electrode spark plugs. Said that having a far smaller radius to the tip meant that lead could not foul plugs as easily because the spark always originated at the tip, not moving around as on a broader surface with thick electrode. That and the superior voltage available from cdi ignition meant that they never had plug fouling with their competition 2 strokes that ran on avgas.For what its worth, Don

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It's worth using platinum iridium plugs if you are racing or have a motor in a car that has a bank of plugs hard to get at, where you are paying 100 /hr for someone to remove manifolds, etc. If you service your own plane I'd use the others gapping them to .5 mm. and change at say 50 hours. They are not worth cleaning at the price Use CORRECT heat range and use anti seize on the threads, (not too much) particularly with an air cooled 4 stroke and tension correctly. A loose plug will run hot. I'd chuck the screwed on HT connections or crush them partly so they won't come off. Nev

 

 

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Crush the plug HT....never thought of that Nev. I use pliers to tighten it. Found one loose recently.

 

Yuri....aren't you the Russkie who amazed the world in Sputnik sub-orbital flight? What? '62.

 

Just kidding. Yes, my Drifter has standard prop clearance. Currently, it has a 60 inch (total length) IVO on it. Tracking & angles are spot on. I use a "cube" digital protractor. No dings, gouges etc. Oil is 50 to one mix. Thank you for your input!

 

It's worth using platinum iridium plugs if you are racing or have a motor in a car that has a bank of plugs hard to get at, where you are paying 100 /hr for someone to remove manifolds, etc. If you service your own plane I'd use the others gapping them to .5 mm. and change at say 50 hours. They are not worth cleaning at the price Use CORRECT heat range and use anti seize on the threads, (not too much) particularly with an air cooled 4 stroke and tension correctly. A loose plug will run hot. I'd chuck the screwed on HT connections or crush them partly so they won't come off. Nev

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I'm replying to my reply.

 

Went to the airport to try some lasr ditch remedies to my 503s mid-range roughness. My ass is worn out. My brain is numb.

 

I've tried thinking outside the box 10 ways to Sunday. No luck.

 

Today, for lack of nothing else, I changed pulse pumps even though I know it was getting fuel through the Facet pump I have in the line. Re-synced the carbs for the umpteeth time, jets, vents, all cleaned, viton needles new, float arms set at 10.5mm, high quality fuel lines. I mean what the hell else is there?

 

Just so you know, I eliminated everything in the fuel line, just had fuel running straight from the tank to the pulse pump. Tank is well vented. I even removed the cable actuated chokes & replaced them with manual chokes. No luck.

 

Changed out everything that's possible to change....carbs, coils, leads, new plugs, new plug caps & on & on. Could it be a breakdown in the stator windings that's not showing up on the meter but happening while running? That's one thing I haven't changed.

 

Wonder what a stator costs?

 

I've got two NEW coils on order. Since a coil helped the hard start in the Drifter, it might do the trick for the Trike. The coil I used in the Drifter was a used one but fairly new.

 

The Rotax manual says that coils can continue to run a powerplant but breakdown under heat etc. Nev pointed that out too. Thanks again Nev!

 

When & if I figure this sucker out, I will certainly post it on here. It may someday be useful to somebody instead of their beating their brains out & learning new cuss words.

 

Bill

 

Crush the plug HT....never thought of that Nev. I use pliers to tighten it. Found one loose recently.Yuri....aren't you the Russkie who amazed the world in Sputnik sub-orbital flight? What? '62.

 

Just kidding. Yes, my Drifter has standard prop clearance. Currently, it has a 60 inch (total length) IVO on it. Tracking & angles are spot on. I use a "cube" digital protractor. No dings, gouges etc. Oil is 50 to one mix. Thank you for your input!

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One more thing.

 

Tried two Balance Masters at about $300+.....No Help Whatsover. Vibrates like they weren't even there.

 

I'm replying to my reply.Went to the airport to try some lasr ditch remedies to my 503s mid-range roughness. My ass is worn out. My brain is numb.

 

I've tried thinking outside the box 10 ways to Sunday. No luck.

 

Today, for lack of nothing else, I changed pulse pumps even though I know it was getting fuel through the Facet pump I have in the line. Re-synced the carbs for the umpteeth time, jets, vents, all cleaned, viton needles new, float arms set at 10.5mm, high quality fuel lines. I mean what the hell else is there?

 

Just so you know, I eliminated everything in the fuel line, just had fuel running straight from the tank to the pulse pump. Tank is well vented. I even removed the cable actuated chokes & replaced them with manual chokes. No luck.

 

Changed out everything that's possible to change....carbs, coils, leads, new plugs, new plug caps & on & on. Could it be a breakdown in the stator windings that's not showing up on the meter but happening while running? That's one thing I haven't changed.

 

Wonder what a stator costs?

 

I've got two NEW coils on order. Since a coil helped the hard start in the Drifter, it might do the trick for the Trike. The coil I used in the Drifter was a used one but fairly new.

 

The Rotax manual says that coils can continue to run a powerplant but breakdown under heat etc. Nev pointed that out too. Thanks again Nev!

 

When & if I figure this sucker out, I will certainly post it on here. It may someday be useful to somebody instead of their beating their brains out & learning new cuss words.

 

Bill

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Next thing is new coils then a stator if coils don't work.

 

Then....Bankruptcy. That should work!

 

One more thing.Tried two Balance Masters at about $300+.....No Help Whatsover. Vibrates like they weren't even there.

  • Haha 1
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One more thing.Tried two Balance Masters at about $300+.....No Help Whatsover. Vibrates like they weren't even there.

What that tells me is that you have a really serious vibration. They wont fix major issues.

Is the vibe at engine speed or prop speed?

 

Is it smooth at idle, then only rough in mid range then smooth again, or rough the whole way through but just worse mid range?

 

Is it four stroking (firing every second stroke)?

 

Are the Carbs correctly assembled...needle jets right way round? needle clips in the right groove? in the right position in the slide?

 

If idling smoothly, (assuming idle screw settings are normal) and smooth at full power, It would point to carb problems, specifically needle/needle jet issues.

 

Very difficult to diagnose over the internet.

 

 

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