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About M61A1

  • Rank
    Well-known member


  • Aircraft
    Fixed wing
  • Location
    Darling Downs
  • Country

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  1. Flightline work/maintenance under running helicopters. Try again....mic quality makes a big difference, I couldn't tell you the difference (in use) between electret or dynamic. ( I know the difference in construction)
  2. We use them at work. I would rather a set of DCs any day. I have a small head and find the Peltors uncomfortably small, as in little to no undercut for your ears. Noise attenuation is average and comms barely acceptable.
  3. Use two clamps...One shaped to fit the square section and one in the size of the hose, attached to each other.. Common practice. Drilling holes never comes into it.
  4. Agree....Get rid of the zip ties altogether and use some P clamps. It would make that look way more professional and last for years (and safer). If you get the correct size, they could also be shaped to fit the square section. Reuseable too.
  5. I've been using it for about 450hors and two and a half years without any problems.
  6. Have you looked at adjusting the mic gain on the lightspeed headset?
  7. It's just what Rotax specify....I work on a lot of Euro stuff and every manufacturer of every different component has their own specification for everything from threadlockers to paints and primers. So one aircraft has a heap of different products....something special for most different components, even though it will be the same colour the brand and spec of the paint is different. Sealants that do the same thing are different, and adhesives which do the same thing are different. It drives you insane have a consumables locker full of stuff that does the same things, but you aren't approve
  8. Good old Turco or Ardrox strippers Work well. They have become my go to method. Best done in batches..one small part at a time becomes annoying.
  9. More P-40 flying..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJZ5x-zUx28
  10. I reckon that big wide track undercarriage might have something to do with that.
  11. This is the sort of damage I found after stripping back the conduit which had no visible damage. Very similar symptoms....Working just fine the wouldn't start one day. No spark. Changed modules....still no spark.
  12. That's 1 ohm (resistance) one other check also would be to put the meter on one of the cables at a time and the the other meter probe on the engine. That will tell you if they are shorted to the cases.
  13. By "vey low" I mean less than 1 ohm. Also, it changed when wriggling the cables.
  14. I'd lay money that it's got more to do with the lack of low level training in the syllabus. From what I've seen a lot of the low level stall/spins are after an event like an engine fail and being very uncomfortable manoeuvring close to the ground, make serious mistakes. I may be wrong, as I don't know what other instructors teach these days, but the ones I use insist on competency with slow flight, stalls and recovery, and such.
  15. Do a resistance check on the stator, the two wires that go to the ignition units. I had a similar issue a while back. The flywheel/rotor had bee removed and the stator inspected IAW the SB with no visible damage noted some time prior. I did all the things you have done and found nothing....until the resistance check, which was very low. I removed the flywheel/rotor and there was no obvious damage, but them I removed the sheath from the two wires to find that both of them were extremely munted up. Once separated the resistance check was normal. After being quoted a ridiculous price fo
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