PureCaboose

Thanks Nev, the brakes are more akin to mountain bike brakes that automotive brakes. I will set them up the way I set up my MTB brakes and see how that goes. They work, just need to be adjusted properly. Compared to before the before brakes they are fantastic. New disks on the left, old disks on the left. Have a zoom in and have a look at the bearing surface on the old disks.

Bolts replaced, new brake disks installed and taxi runs done. Trying to get the balance between too much space between the disks and pads and too much travel in the brake lever. I just need to araldite in the screw in fittings for the fairings and it will be good for a flight test (and I can get back to flying).

I know of a 182RG that retracted the gear then the instructor sayd 'retract flaps' and someone grabbed the wrong lever. Good thing it was a grass strip......

2 previous owners, full(ish) maintenance records. It has not had the 500 hrs bolts done in the 1100(ish) hours it has flown. The black, rubber bushing on the inboard end were falling apart (hence the clunk that alerted me). There is a number of things that have me going WTF on this plane, it has a transponder that is not run through the avionics switch, just the main switch, the transponder and radio are sitting in a timber panel that is siliconed, screwed and pop riveted to the panel. The cover of the elevator horn and trim command was held on with machine screws into the threaded inserts, wood screws, plasterboard screws and builders adhesive. I had to cut if off the plane once all the screws were out. I has been sitting outside on the hardstand on a coastal airport for a few years, it has pumpkin head cover the windows etc are good but anything that is not stainless, non-ferros or composite has a patina on it. I will be doing a full fastener replacement and bolt inspection later this year. We pulled the control surface bolts for the annual earlier this year and they are all good, no sholders etc just discoloured by salt spray. It's a 2011 factory build 160, with the dual brake calipers. It does need (and I have them) the disk replaced as they are are a pitted nightmare due to the salt exposure, but they still work. I am going to referbish the whole brake, axle, wheel, tyre, spat assembly. PureCaboose

None of the supplied bolts are long enough, spoke to Jabiru and I was sent 26a and 27a bolts. But I might need 31a, 32a or 33a bolts. Now I need to take them all out, measure them and ask for the right bolts. This is a 24, factory built aircraft that even the manufacturer can't supply off the shelf parts for. And I have $120 worth of toolbox fillers that I can't use. I love my Jabiru, don't get me wrong. But between nothing being 'factory' and the poor paint quality I am beginning to thing I got a last friday of the month plane. Now I just need another day to head out to the airfield, jack up the plane and take all the bolts back out, measure them, put them back in and wait. PureCaboose

Hey Skippy, If you are flying west of Camden over the dam, you are probably in the grey zone of the mobile network. There is not much traffic (other then aircraft) that need to hand off between the towers so there is no 'fast handoff' programmed into the network so when you switch towers there may be an outage as you swap towers. I get the same effect when I fly over Bundanoon and head west. I have been talking to the Mrs on the phone (Hey Honey, I am flying over now) and it drops every time I fly over the same spot. I use AVPLAN-EFB, I have not noticed the internet traffic leaving, but I will look out for it next time I am flying. (doing main gear AD at the moment and the weather is killing me).

Have you reigistered with CASA for the ICAO hex number for you plane and entered it into the SE2? I have a Stratus 3 that only does ADSB-IN, and recently upgraded to the SE2 with ADSB-IN and ADSB-EC. When I run them both at home, eventually the ADSB light comes on. From what I understand, the light comes on when it detects/connects to another ADSB transponder. Looking at the manual, you may need to check that ADSB-IN is enabled on the SE2 as well, via the web console for the SE2. I can't remember if I needed to turn mine on or not as I was not taking notes at the time. Below is a link to the manual, page 20 is the right page. https://www.ozpilot.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/SkyEcho-2-User-and-Installation-Guide-REV-M.pdf?srsltid=AfmBOoprv6P-gRFdBQPvr7WIj6jKxLRDELB6w3HojkfioCfywwEnplUa Regards PureCaboose

I don't have mobile service at my property, and I live in a 'Village'. If I walk up the hill 1km I can get 5 bars of coverage. When I fly over the house/village there is a mobile blackspot at 1500 AGL just west of the village as well. Drops out calls as well as streaming ADSB data. my SE2 keeps working though, so not sure why you's blanked. I am using AVPLAN-EFB though. PureCaboose

The factory method is to space the hub out with washers to get the camber and toe requried, then flock them into place. It's a factory (24 rego) aircraft, so I wonder what I will find when I pull it apart. Might take some photos and video of my tasks as I go for future reference. PureCaboose

It's multi-layered fibreglass bent into a radius during the layup. two legs, each bolts to the bottom of the fusilage under the rear of the seat base and the then bends down in a radius to the hub mount.

Depending on what is going on, I will look at the wedge and flock method at the hub base on the outboard end of the leg.

I need to even the tyre wear, the outside edge of the tyre is amost done and the inside edge is hardly worn. You can't see if with the spats on, but with them off it looks like it is sitting up on its toes when empty, the 2 degrees each side is visible. I am not sure what the toe is, have to get a longer piece of angle to check it. PureCaboose

Did you keep you internet access as well? The issue with flying and using the mobile towers is you can transition between towers at speeds that the network does not plan for. This can lead to outages as the network re-routes you traffic. The interconnects are planned on the basis of how most users will transition between towers, it sounds like you were out over the dam/waterboard area. You could have been switching between towers on either side of the area and they would not be configured to easy hand off between towers. Caboose

New parts have arrived, the rubber bushings are now red nolethane bushes. Even got a few baggies with machine screws and the little screw in fittings for the fusilage to hold on th fairings. Moved the planes around in the hanger, just working on how I am going to move the engine hoist to the airfield. Interior is out, and I have found all the interior nuts I need to remove. sitting ataround 360kg (empty plane with fuel) there is 2 degrees of positive camber Planning on getting some time next week (perhaps tomorrow) to go and make a start on this. Need to remember to get 5min apoxy glue on the way. Caboose.

I though it was a spacer, however it is on top of the inner part of the leg spacing it down from the bottom of the frame. This would cause the outer part of the leg to move further out, and make the vertical mount for the hub either more vertical, or more camber. It has been suggested that it is for wheel alignment instead of spacers and flocking at the hub side of the leg. I need to move around the hanger mate aircraft before I take when wheels and legs off otherwise i will block the hanger access. I have the build and technical manuals for the J160, I will be doing a pre and post wheel alignment settings to see what I have currently, and what I end up with after I am done. Hopefully I can reduce the tyre wear on the outer edge, and tone down the twitchiness when on the main gear and high speed rolling (take off and landing)

Ordered the bolt and rubber kit, and there is a new kit for fastening the cowls back onto the fusilage. Going to do a wheel alignment when they go back on, as well as learning how the balance the wheels after I swap the tyres around on the rim.

I am in YMIG, and I use John from the Oak for everything that is beyond me (for now). Part of owning my own plane is expanding my knowledge and experience. In the technical manual there is no spacer, so i am curious as to why it is there, and who put it there now that I think of it as the plane has been L2 maintained to date. Building a platform/brace for the engine hoist so I can lift the wing to get the gear off. New brake disks to go on and balance the very much out of balance wheels. If I can't work it out, I will call John. I though I would asks here to what knoweldge there was. My bad. PureCabosoe

Taking off yesterday (after 2 touch and goes) from a full stop I head a clunk under my seat, immediatly cut throttle and put her back down on the runway (I have 1.4km to use). Taking off the covers over the main landing gear I note that the left hand rubbers are pretty much done, so easy, order new ones and replace (and do the 500 hr update while I am there). My questions is, on the right hand side there is a white spacer that sits above the inboard bolt, about 10mm in height. It is only on the right hand side, the left hand is hard against the floor. I can't see this spacer in the Jabiru Technical Manual for the J160 airframe. Reaching out to the brainstrust here, is this supposed to be there? Should there be one of the left hand side as well or should I remove it when I replace the rubbers? I am going to do a wheel alignment when I finish as I am chewing out the outside of the tyres on the main gear as it is. PureCaboose J160

I tend to wear Ridgeline gear, designed for outdoor people to sit in all weather and enjoy the outdoors. They work on the layer principle. During winter, I wear a thermal layer, then a fleece, then a thicker fleece with a windstopper and so on. On my feet, I wear Oakley boots (I fell in love with them at work), thin socks, then a thick thermal sock inside my boots. Don't get cold feet flying the plane or standing in place when flying the drones. You need to remember to move your feet and legs as well. If you just sit there and don't move them to keep the blood flowing, you will get cold, and it will be hard to warm up within the confines of a small plane cockpit. I am a fidgety person anyway, so I am always flexing my feet, etc. Another big one for retaining heat is your neck (especially the back) and your head. I have either a scarf and/or neck gaiter for winter and a thin thermal hat that fits under my helmet (and I block the air vents with tape in the helmet). As you get cold, your body will reduce the blood flow to your extremities to retain core heat, so staying warm and not letting your core cool is critical. Vests, layers, etc. As a kid, my mother felt the cold, and she had a small metho-powered pocket heater that was the size of a hip flask. You started the thing up, closed up the box and put it in a velvet bag and put it in your pocket to help keep core warmth. Not sure if you can still get them. Greg

I just got back home from a flight, was 8 degrees at the hanger and my J160/2200 started no issues. Close throttle, open choke, press button and fires right up.

I went from a Gizelle to a Jabiru 160. The Jab has less drag (even with full flaps) than the Gizelle. To slow down from 100 knots so I can put in som flaps on downwind I need to pull back on the stick/yoke considerably as I reduce throttle otherwise we just gradually loose speed, unlike the Gizelle where dropping throttle is an immediate slow down. It's easy to float down the runway as well, make sure you have zero throttle and listen to the song of the people from the stall warning tribe. Brakes and airlerons are easy(ish), arm through the dual sticks to use the brakes, and if you need right aileron, push your elbow to the right. If you need rudder, set if with you left hand and use your arm to hold it there.

Sleeping mat, sleeping bag and a bag liner. The bag liner alternated between a cotton one or a polyfleece one, depending on the weather/season. For camping, I have a 2-person lightweight hiking tent. All my gear is from BCF. Tent: https://www.bcf.com.au/p/roman-cradle-2-person-hiking-tent/653002.html?gtmfrompage=checkout Sleeping bag: https://www.bcf.com.au/p/wanderer-singe-0-hooded-sleeping-bag/636449.html?gtmfrompage=checkout Camping mat: https://www.bcf.com.au/p/wanderer-camp-38-hiking-mat/521022.html?gtmfrompage=checkout Summer liner: https://www.bcf.com.au/p/roman-cotton-sleeping-bag-liner/673055.html?gtmfrompage=checkout I have experienced everything from sleeping in a hole in a bivvy bag to luxury camper trailers, and this is what I use as my go-to camping gear for flying or driving when I travel for work. Greg P.S. The water in the metho for the Trangia stove is to make it easier to clean the soot off the outside of the pots.

I have the SkyEcho2 which is installed inside, but the beacon has the bright white beacon. Not really sure I want it inside when it should be outside.

I have the same though, the tail beacon on a Jabiru goes on the top of the fin, there is not much room under the rudder to fit a rear facing light. Perhaps to the cowl that covers the elevator/trim actuator.

Next time you come by Mittagong, give me a shout. I hanger there, and love coffee...