horsefeathers

Horsefeathers - for starters, great temperatures, which I could only dream of!! Oil temp is great also. have been very interested to know what sort of difference I would see between the speak plug probe vs screw type, so that's interesting to hear that you tried it and that they are in fact similar.I am gathering that you don't have EGT's which are a good indicator of mixtures, but nonetheless, I would be thinking that no. 4 is running a little leaner. Not sure how it works if you have a pusher installation, as per your avatar, but the change in intake for me clearly richened up no.4 specifically, so who knows...

If you don't mind me asking, how many hours on the engine? What sort of jetting and what sort of ambient temps are you operating in?

Just to clear up some confusion, I'm flying a Jab 160 (the avatar is my old Streak Shadow, with a rotax 582).

I have 300 hours on the engine (and airframe), and the last leakdown was 80/78 on all cylinders, so no probs there. I have put the Jabiru recommended jetting in about 100 hours ago (except the idle jet which from memory is a "35" instead of a "45").

Ambient temps are about 20 C (I use a simple digital OAT thermometer).

The new CHT probes are from Sonex, and designed for a Jab 2200 (old thick fin heads only) Sonex Web Store - AeroConversions CHT Probes (set of 2) AeroConversions CHT Probes (set of 2)

About 10 engine hours ago, I added a flat aluminium plate BEHIND the oil cooler- it is attached to the shield in front of the muffler, and extends about 12 inches parallel to the oil cooler. The thinking here is to direct the oil cooler air "exhaust" down towards the firewall, and prevent/minimise it mixing with the low pressure air from the heads. I have seen an observable decrease in all CHTs of about 25 F. The original gauge (head #4) NEVER goes over 300 F now, and that figure is backed up by the new gauge. A quick and dirty installation, but after this success, I am going to try to enclose and capture that exhaust air more completely.

However, that #4 CHT is annoying.

Cheers

Gerry

Hi Guys.

Been following this discussion with great interest, and would love to have your thoughts on CHTs on a 2200

I recently installed a gauge with a 4 CHT readout, and all CHTs are within 5 degrees or so of each other, EXCEPT for #4.

This consistently reads 35 deg F higher than the other cylinders.

Cruising temps are approx 230F on 1 through 3, and 4 will be approx 275F

Also, when taxying, the CHT on #4 climbs much quicker than the other heads.

The probes for the new gauge sit under the head bolt closest to the exhaust valve, and the original CHT sender (on 4) is still operational, and is under the spark plug. The original and new gauge are in reasonable agreement on #4 head temps.

Oil temp sit about 90 degreesC. Standard Jab ram air ducts

So, my question is, is there a way of getting the CHT of #4 down to the level of the other heads?

Maybe, but everyone else thinks I'm a dickhead.

Not everyone knows you yet!!!!

Not my Lightwing, but this was sitting by the side of the Biggenden airstrip when I flew in early one morning last week

MUNICH -- One of the few countries to allow commercial airline pilots to fly with insulin-controlled diabetes has had no incidents of medical incapacitation and few cases of in-flight hypo- or hyperglycemia during more than 18 months, according to a U.K. study.

Read the full article here Pilots With Diabetes In U.K. Fly Safely

Perhaps, a system that rewards posters for the number of likes, rather than just a raw count of their posts. After all, it's a quality rating, not quantity, you're after.

Some of the posters here make a lot of noise, but don't deserve the same status as (for example) facthunter.

So, expand the 'like' system slightly, and tie a user's status to that.

Well, here's an update following a few different strategies: simply opening up the intakes did do wonders - it dropped around 10 degrees off things and adding about a 1 inch 'fence' on the base of the duct directly in front of No. 2 dropped it a further 10ish degrees also! At this stage, 2 & 4 are my warm cylinders, whilst 1 & 3 are bordering on too cold (has this ever happened in a Jab?????)On the last run, at 20 degrees celsius ambient (ground temp), cruise temps @ 2900 were as follows:

 

CHT's.............EGT's

 

No 1 -108....... No 1- 664

 

No 2-155.........No 2- 713

 

No 3-120.........No 3- 602

 

No 4-150.........No 4- 656

 

Has anyone had experience with the left side being substantially higher than the right? From a duct perspective, both sides are almost identical, so it's got me scratching my head for sure. I am waiting on a Manometer, so will check the pressure differentials, but going on 1 & 3, the cowl outlet situation looks just fine...

 

I have actually tried the 'carby tilt' technique, with nil effect, so at this stage jetting is my next curiosity. It seems I have older jets, with a 255 main and possibly 276 needle?

 

From the EGT's, I gather that 2 & 4 may not be getting as much mixture....

 

Any thoughts??

Do you have any before and after pictures of your modification?

You've been going to way too many American Tea Parties, FT.

Keep quiet and they may not remember to renew it...

BTW, I believe you should be looking at

CASA 102/15 - Conditions and direction concerning certain aircraft fitted with engines manufactured by Jabiru Aircraft Pty Ltd

Sounds like the jig might be optional. Others may prefer a jug.rgmwa

Personally, a cup of tea....

Yes, a cup of tea, a bex, and a good lie down....(if you're under sixty, you won't understand)

Gympie Detailed Forecast - Bureau of Meteorology

Has just about everything you need (including dewpoint), barring turbulence report.

Just change to your required location

Also Windyty, wind forecast, for a visual view of winds, temps, clouds. Allows you to choose the height as well

Bloody Gymparians, leave anything laying around and it's gone in a flash.

Somewhere near Gympie.

Well, I just had a quick look around my backyard in Gympie, and I cant find it!!!!

Lithium ION are the ones that go Poof! Bang! Flame!!!

Lithium IRON Phosphate are for all intents and purposes, a stable battery

Latest email from RAA includes this from Technical

Message from Technical

Lithium Ion Phosphate Batteries – to use or not to use?

An article in next months’ Sport Pilot magazine covers the issue of whether or not to use Lithium Ion batteries in light aircraft powered by Rotax or Jabiru engines. Both manufactures advise against the use of these batteries and that aircraft owners should only being going in accordance with the requirements detailed in the manufactures handbook for their specific aircraft.

I am concerned that Tech Manager does not know the difference between Lithium ION and Lithium IRON Phosphate batteries. Following manufacturers handbook is obviously the correct thing to do, but posting confusing tech advice is less than helpful

Try this BP document about Mogas - its a bit surprising re the octane level over time - it actually increases.

The problem is with the loss of light components, and BP recommends adding fresh fuel to petrol more than a week old, to refresh these lost light components.

http://www.bp.com/content/dam/bp-country/en_au/media/fuel-news/petrol-life-vehicle-tanks.pdf

In summary it says:

Loss of light components – impact on octane

The light components in petrol are lost first as the petrol sits in the fuel tanks. These

components provide valuable octane benefits under high revving conditions such as

cold start acceleration and the loss of these components can result in detonation and

pre ignition at high speed resulting in piston damage.

The remaining components that have not evaporated are high octane and octane can

actually increase with time but this octane is not available for high revving

conditions.

Hi Mark.

I owned and flew a Streak Shadow (28-1456) until 6 or so months ago.

First thing. It's one of the easiest planes to fly, and is perfect for low time pilots.

There is an active British forum for Shadows here http://forums.bmaa.org/default.aspx?f=45&r=x

They will have answers to all your questions, (except about your Jabiru installation)

If you want any info (pilots handbook, maintenance tips, etc), just let me know, and I'll see what I can dig up.

There are a few things you should be aware of that are issues common with Shadows, (boom tube wear, horizontal stabilizer reinforcement), but NOTHING that there is no relatively simple solution for.

PM me with your phone number if you'd like a chat.

Cheers

Gerry

Everybody - and seriously - email O'Sullivan, congratulate hiom for opening this au to proper inspection. THIS IS IMPORTANT! - not just for Jabiru but to forestall CASA expanding this kind of BS throughout the Rec Av scenario.https://www.aph.gov.au/Senators_and_Members/Contact_Senator_or_Member?MPID=247871

Well not new arrivals, 2nd generation (have to speak good English) and not so well paid, it's just security but I agree indeed good to see them having work. The obvious concern is with the situation that happened at Sharm el-Sheikh of course, some allegiances always come first.

Ahhh GG, will you get over your oh so obvious prejudices please? Your comments are just plain nasty. For an avowed Christian, you seem to have a lot of problems following the basic tenets of your religion.

One of the problems with Sharm el-Sheikh of course, was the use of the ADE-651 bomb detector, which unfortunately, is useless at detecting explosives....

Manufactured by those good ol' boy terrorists in the good ol' US of A. There are no batteries in the unit and it consists of a swivelling aerial mounted to a hinge on a hand-grip. The device contains nothing but the type of anti-theft tag used to prevent stealing in high street stores and critics have likened it to a glorified dowsing rod, and costs $40,000. As the company owner says, "the ADE 651 does exactly what it's designed to. It makes money." https://theintercept.com/2015/11/23/this-fake-bomb-detector-is-blamed-for-hundreds-of-deaths-its-still-in-use/

These guys pray to that God in the bank, the Almighty Dollar.

Hi Mike.

I bought David's Shadow back in 2013. I have an email and mobile phone number, which I'll send to you shortly.

Cheers

For what it's worth, I put a cheap ebay "Tiny Tach" onto my 582, with the lead wrapped around the spark plug lead, and it has kept in step with the "conventional" wired in hour meter for over 110 hours. Could never get the tacho to display the correct values however.

my world class input keeps you guys on your toes

Leaky/cracked rubber carby boots???

stoinochic

EGTs are affected by the load on the engine as well, so you can also try playing with your prop. pitch.

EGTs on my 582 had more than a 100 degree temp change when I altered the pitch by 1/2 degree..