Modest Pilot

If you have room on the right side of the panel, the Aigizmos Panel Mount plus the Aigizmos Horizontal Tilt Adaptor work just fine. Aircraft Spruce Part No's. 11-03509 and 11-04671. What ever you decide Garmins are hard to read if you can't look straight at them. (eg no angle offset)

The same thought ocurred to me; I'd be happy to oblige.

Had a good look at this aircraft at Oshkosh. Apart from the extra cabin width I think I preferred the C150 that was parked along side; it certainly had better build quality! Accepting that many details have yet to be worked out, one feature that didn't impress was the rearward sweep of the main wing struts. It allows you to step into the cabin unobstructed. However if you grab the wing tip and push up you will notice that the wing twists and moves forward. The increased angle of attack of the wing will be interesting in turbulence, hope they have built the wing nice and strong! (heavy) The engine looks bulletproof and should be a hit with fixed base operators.

Details that make them fly nice! #The rudder does not like to centre after a disturbance with the nose spat on. Make sure that the rudder springs are only just tensioned and it will be almost O K. #Pull the rubber caps back off the ends of the telflex cables and spray with Teflon spray (the stuff that comes in green pressure packs from Repco for use on garage door slides) Use it on anyting that moves in the control system, you wouldn't believe how smooth the controls can actually be. #On long flights take a pillow or something. No one can pee uphill! #Cut a moon shape out of the front bottom part of the nose spat if you intend doing any off pavement stuff. The kneeling action of the front suspension tends to catch and tear the thing apart on any rough spots. #Make sure the wings are level if you stop on the ground with any sort of fuel load. (yes I know the nylon ball in the fuel vent is spost to stop this but sometimes it doesn't I know of a guy that lost 60 lt overnight) Enjoy it's a great x-country machine

160,000 and ten years; markrting spin! Try running it at 75% power not the normal car cycle of 18% with short bursts of full power. History is you will be lucky to get 200 hours in an aircraft. The Lexus /Toyota engine is a fine bit of machinery but is a V6 with all the odd vibrations that configuration brings. That's why most have a balance shaft running at twice engine speed. If you must have an alternate engine I,d go for a Subaru, VW, Corvair, Izusu, Suzuki, Honda in that order. However if you have a large cheque book (very large) have go and let us know the results.

The Franklin engine.

I think the basis problem is that direct drive engines in aircraft really require a heavy bottom end and a light top end, the exact opposite of most other designs. Gearboxes need to be much heavier (as per standard engineering tables) than is practical in most light aircraft. The same designer did the basic design work for all three US flat engines in the 30's. I guess times change but Physics are forever.

Actually it's not. I'll wager they were talking peak gust. RPT generally give it away at around 60KN reported at WLG which means you get peak gusts of about 80KN. (it's usually got a good X-Wind to boot) The small aircraft were probably ATR72's. Sometimes Airline Pilots actually do earn their money! These days I only fly good weather; VFR; and no night stuff!:)

Sorry still recoverying from Oshkosh trip! Mine's a J230D, the T/O weight was 570KG. Rod said all but the J160. Don't know if it has trialled on the J120. I always climb out after clean up at 80 - 90 Kn so hard to say. If you want to go for climb go for the 53" pitch. You'll get 1000'+ a min. Will get to 140KN OK but overspeeds I'm told. (3400rpm)

Fitted the new Sensenish 62" X 56" prop today. Climb: Better requires further testing. Cruise: 124KN @ 1500ft. 14C; F/F 22.5 lt/hr @ 2800rpm; Oil temp 85; CHT 250F; EGT 700C . Max Pwr: 140kn. 3100rpm. 34lt/hr. Smoother, much better than dynamically balance previous prop. Jabiru LSA approved for all except J160. $Cost: $1400 Aus from Jabiru ex Bundy. :thumb_up::thumb_up::thumb_up:

The stuff to use is LPS N0. 3. Your local LAME will be able to sell it to you or point you in the right direction. The pressure pack is dangerous goods so it's going to cost more than the Aircraft Spruce price. ($9.75)

Actually there are usually around eight controllers in the tower plus more in a van off each active runway. There are three landing zones on R/W 27: Marked a by different colour bar at each threshold, often with three landings happening at the same time. The year the Concorde was there my Grandson and I managed a visit to the tower. As well as normal R/W 27 arrivals a couple of the guys were helping form up 134 warbirds overhead for the Airshow and a Concorde was departing on the X-runway. "Limeys Barnstorming" as the controller put it. (Joyriding up North.)

It's a standard Sensenich wooden prop optimised to the particular Australian Jabiru model. (different to USA models) I have a similar one on my 2200 Jab powered Sonex (54x44). They are made out of a harder wood, I think it's American White Beech. The leading edge protection is hard epoxy and I have found myself in light to moderate rain with no apparent ill effects. Smooth running and well finished item. Be aware that the prop torque and fasting to the hub are a little different to the standard Jab props; I'd look up the Sensenich web site and talk to Jabiru before fitting one.

Always interested. I've flown a mates Searay in Qld. (since written off in water landing accident!) First it takes about three hours of washing and spraying with Inox after operating in sea water. Our Qld water has an extra high saline rating, so I think you should go composite. To operate inside present RAAus weights and the sort of engine that's light enough, you wind up with a high aspect glider like wing to get the darn thing off the water, not really ideal for cross country work. Saw the Aeroprat at Oshkosh last year looks like a good formula but it's metal and far to heavy for RAAus.

If you put a note on the board in the International Tent I can take you to a mate a couple miles from the airport who is well advanced on an XL. He's the same guy that compares the Theatre in the Woods shows.

Make sure that any switches etc are rated at least 3 amp DC. It is suprising the difference in AC v DC rating. The limit switches are under the cover of the small tube on the flap motor. www.firgelliauto.com.au is a handy address for the motors and some other parts.

Sensinich prop now approved and available from Jabiru for factory build J230D LSA. Fourteen fitted and twenty on the way. Cost about $1400Aus plus GST.

:crying:Anyone visiting Jabiru at Bundy be aware that the local council have made Jabiru install a security gate where you used to be able to taxi through the boundry fence. You can usually attract attention but maybe you will need to use your mobile phone. ;)Question: Does this mean if you stay in your aircraft that you can get away without an ASIC card?

Bundy Shell stock it.

All the 3300 Jabs at our field do this; it’s cavitation on the supply side. With 100W oil stops at around 70-75 deg oil temp. With 15-50W oil stops at around 10 deg lower oil temp. If you are able to reduce power below 2700rpm after T/O it will also stop. Occasionally occurs at higher oil temp with hot oil at high power settings, reduction of rpm will fix and you can return to higher power without it reoccurring. Opinions at the factory vary as to the cause; the most honest one is its air getting in the supply side; what else could it be! I have been assured that it’s O K but I wonder what the effect of air getting into the hydraulic lifters is doing, I hear it damages Rotax 912’s, it’s the reason you can not turn that engine backwards on the ground. Feedback from all you engineers out there please!

Cost; J160 is certified requires Reg 35 engineer. Factory built LSA don't.

More thoughts on props. I have a Sensenich Wooden prop on my other Jab powered aircraft. (Sonex). Hardwood but light with protection inlay. Beautifully made smooth running prop. Rod will approve them on all but the J160. The prop used on U S A Jab 250's is a bit underpitched so perhaps one should wait for Jab Aust. to recieve their shipment of some with a couple of inches more pitch. $A1400 plus GST. Not cheap but I don't think you could ship them yourself much cheaper. Depite the drawbacks I still think a well built wood prop runs smoother than a composite. The Sensenich is much more tolerant to rain than Hoop Pine; it's pretty well impossible to fly up here in QLD in summer without running into rain showers; so far so good with the Sonex.

The Bearepaire guy at Narromine fixed my J230 "Burr Effected" tyre in much the same way, but used stuff call insertion rubber. It's the standard out West fix and very tuff. 100mm is fine any more and you risk chaffing the inner tube. I did the other tyres one at a time. I was worried about vibration, but turned out not a problem on the mains and needed over 60kt to start for the nosewheel; an area that you would not normally venture into. Jabiru tried three props before a reasonable one was found. Tony Kerr's mob at Gympie measured it and it's not perfect (up to 1/2 deg pitch diff in some areas) but the results of the Dynmic Balance they completed just magic best couple hundred dollars ever spent.

It's possible that there is confustion on the reason the mod is a recommendation on J230 series. The cover is sized to fit later models where the bellcrank is in front of the strut carry through beam. Early models have the bellcrank behind the beam. I still think a cover is a still a good idea but you are on your own as the mod offered won't fit early models. Maybe you could put in an arm rest cover on and extend it fill in the hole between the armrest and the old back cover.

Go to the B P Aust site and look for "Fuel Regulations in Australia". Basic information dates from 2002 but is updated as of Jan 2006. You will see that the stuff sold in QLD and WA is probably the best for aircraft.