zodiac3813

Iridium plugs still in boxes...... Hi People, When I had a sporadic misfiring issue a few months ago, I got all enthused and bought a set from Ireland for roughly half the oz price (landed here) but haven't fitted them yet.... closed the air gap on the coils to .008 and the plug gap on the (10hours only) NGKs to .016 and it hasn't missed a beat since. Reluctant to disturb the sleeping dog! i_dunno How do you think the wider gap of the Iridium plug handles the weak electrical impulse from the jabiru coils? That's another thing that makes me reluctant to fit them, as they say not to alter the gap...... got a Bass Strait crossing coming up in May, so have to decide whether to change them or not....... Jim

Using Aeroshell 15W50 all the time Pete. I spoke to Don at Jabiru yesterday and he said a temp range of 70 - 90 deg is fine, and not below 60 in winter. It can nudge 100 in the climb, or go over 100 for short periods; when I told him it had never gone over 100, he more or less said I was fretting unnecessarily. One point he made was that on his Jab, he sealed a 5mm gap around the air intake shrouding and got a 10 deg drop in oil temp! Moral: ALL available air must go through the cooler................ Cheers, Jim.

Hi Warick, thanks for that info and photos, unfortunately I can't do any major modifications as my Jab is 55- registered, factory built. Having said that, there's not much value in that if the engine cooks! I'm curious as to the location of your oil cooler? At the end of the red hoses obviously, but where do they go? Have you a photo of your oil cooler setup? Cheers, Jim

Thanks people for all your advice and info. I'd add an extra cooler tomorrow if there was room under the cowl.... unfortunately it's a strange kind of fluted design (I'll try to post a pic) with VERY LITTLE room around the engine. Guess I could modify it or see whether Jabiru sell the other, fuller-shaped ones still (they may have one kicking around) Cheers Jim

Thanks heaps for all the info, I just ordered iridium plugs from the store suggested, having trialled 2X of them on the pot that appeared to be missing.... can anyone suggest the safest way to adjust the gap? They say not to change them at all, but obviously they're way to wide at around .028" or whatever? Also thanks Maresi, I would like to have Wayne Johns contact details: you can send them to my email address if need be, it's [email protected] Cheers, Jim

Thanks for the responses, guys: today I removed the backward- facing air scoops from the cowl under the cooler (hadn't helped at all) and taped up the holes where they were. I also sealed off any remaining (tiny) gaps in the ducting through the cooler where air could go. Then climbed at around 80 kts to 3000 ft. CHT was perfect all the way, 140 - 150 deg C, but the oil temp SLOWLY climbed to (again) just a fraction under 100 deg. The odd thing is that it doesn't drop when I level out and cruise at 2800 rpm / 95 kts.... only drops when descending / throttled back. I did check the sender in boiling water 50 hrs ago and it was ok, Has anyone had a dud sender? Does it give odd readings, or stay on 0? I'm starting to think I may need to (somehow?) get the bigger / roomier cowl and mount the cooler square-on in the airflow to get it to work!! What a pai. Cheers, Jim

I think you must be thinking Degrees F ? This is centigrade degrees, hence my concerns. If it was in faranheight (is that how it's spell it?) yes it would be low! Cheers, Jim

Hi everyone, does anyone know the "acceptable" max oil temp for a 2200 engine? Mine, on a 26 deg OAT day, is reaching just under 100 deg (no matter what airspeed in climb), dropping back quickly on descent. The following relevant details: narrow (7 cm), deep (5 cm) heavy duty oil cooler mounted under the sump which allows 45 degree angle, direct air flow, fed by a (sealed) opening under the prop, 4 cm "lip" added to bottom edge of cowl there are no substantial gaps around the cooler where air can escape I recently added 2 x backward-facing vents directly under the cooler to try to "draw" more air through.... didn't work! (now I have 2 x holes to repair!) The whole point is, I guess, how hot is "too hot"? I previously had a Zodiac 601 with 1800 Subaru engine that routinely reached 110 deg, but I guess the Subie is made of sterner stuff.... Lastly, this LSA 55 has a "skinny", hard-to-describe-the-shape-of cowl that I have only seen once before on an SK model Jab. I did try changing the cooler for the original (?) K&H cooler, but that was no better, as I suspect the air was hitting the webbing at almost a 90 degree angle. Any ideas???? Cheers, Jim

Hi again and thanks for the prompt responses..... since writing, I conducted 4 x short flights while fine-tuning the airflow through the cowls (added a lip at rear of bottom cowl), as the oil temp had been getting close to 100 deg C on hot days. The OAT was 29 deg. Not a hint of a misfire on all mag checks and during flights! It's not a consistent problem, that's for sure...but when it happens, the only way to fix it is to change those plugs! For the record..... valve clearances were correctly set 20 hrs ago by mechanic/level 2 fuel used is BP Ultimate 98 octane oil is aeroshell 15W50 after misfiring, the plug electrodes on no. 4 appeared oily (one more so than the other) when Jabiru reco'd the engine, they replaced 1xcoil and left the other original one (??) Thanks again, will keep plugging away (no pun intended!)..... Cheers, Jim :thumb_up:

Hi all..... I have an LSA55 with a reco 2.2 (120hrs). Has anyone had problems with fouled plugs causing mis-firing? I have on a couple of occasion experienced this on the R)mag when doing pre takeoff checks, with the occasional miss on both mags. The first time it happened, I put it down to a faulty spark plug and fitted a new set...... problem fixed, until about 3 hrs flying later: same problem again, with the occasional miss on both mags. This time I blamed Murphy and (reluctantly) changed th plugs again. Fixed for another 3 hrs. THIS time I narrowed the miss down to no. 4 cyl and removed the 2 plugs... the appeared oily, one more so than the other. Put in 2 of the many 2-hour old plugs piling up on the workbench, and presto! Running like a clock. What puzzles me is that the oil consumption isn't excessive (for a Jabiru)... maybe 100 mls in 3 hours, with some blowback. The cylinders & heads have been off, when all the through bolts were replaced at around 90 hrs due to a broken one. Slight glazing of the bores, possibly due to a soft run-in (previous owner!), but otherwise all appeared ok. All work done by a Level 2..... leak-down test at 100 hrs was satisfactory plug leads replaced all plugs gapped at .020, coils at .010 distributor caps checked, rotors tight nil overheating, temps always well in the green I would have thought that a slight oil leakage into the chamber, either past the valves or rings (as cyl. no. 4 appears to have), would be burned off by ignition: so after some advice and consultation, I can only conclude that the spark is too weak, allowing the plug to become fouled over time. Any input would be greatly appreciated, as I need to sort this problem before a Bass Strait crossing next May! Cheers, Jim

I'll try to get a close-up photo of the broken end of the stud (obviously the nut and broken-off end are not around to be photographed!) and post it if possible. Cheers, Jim

jabiru engine probs Hi people, just thought I'd give this thread a bump.......... Jabiru reco engine (don't have the number in front of me) 2006, in LSA-55 Solid lifters Oil temp and pressure, cyl head temp all in mid-range, never overheated All run-in and maintenance procedures adhered to (level 2) At 74hours, an engine through-bolt snapped under the nut. Luckily it was spotted post -flight (thankfully a short one!), before the next one could break. The original bolts had been used in the rebuild. Kinda gives you an empty feeling inside, especially after crossing Bass Strait recently........ all bolts to be replaced, but will they be any better? Cheers, Jim

Hi John, would they fit my LSA-55 Jabiru? How wide are they? Cheers, Jim.

I mean Brent, sorry.

Hi, I am interested but will see what Brett does as he enquired first.... as a matter of interest, where did you get them from? Cheers, Jim

I had a terrible "scratchy" noise on high rev settings (there all the time) in the ol '55. It turned out to be a relay behind the panel that had to be kept free from any vibration. Some idiot (me) had velcro'd it to the firewall to "tidy it up". I set it free wrapped in 1/2" foam, and no more noise! I don't think later Jabs have the relay, but it might pay to check.... Jamie at Jabiru alerted me to it. Cheers, Jim.

Problem Solved! Hey Guys! I rang Jabiru about my interference noise... Jamie advised me to check a relay behind the panel, which has to be kept vibration-free, due to the fact that it contains metal bands which develop static electricity when they vibrate at certain frequencies. Sure enough, I had anchored the relay to the firewall with velcro. After removing the velcro, I wrapped it in 1/2" foam and set it free again.... no more interference! Thanks for your help, Cheers, Jim.

Hi Gary & thanks for the reply. I've done engine off test broadcasts as well as with engine running. Reception (to another aircraft) is clear and 5/5 no matter what engine is doing. The snap-crackle-pop comes in above 2600 rpm. I was checking the list of things Jabiru replaced when the engine was rebuilt (70 hrs ago) and they appear to have used the original ignition harness. This may be next on my hit-list! The problem is definitely not within the radio itself, as I have tried a different radio. The interference also comes through on a small hand-held (battery powered) through seperate headphones, but was cut out by squelch control. I am currently using the A200's in-built (crappy) intercom. Neither the radio nor the intercom have a readily adjustable squelch control. I intend to fit a sigtronics or similar intercom, but would like to get rid of this noise in the meantime! Cheers, Jim.

Hi Perry, just did a search for Airmagic filter, but came up with nothing... where did you buy it? I'm having the same (or similar) problem with an Icom A200 in a Jabiru LSA. VERY scratchy/snap-crackle-pop on anything over 2600 RPM. Thought I'd found the problem after rectifying a very dodgy earth connection from battery to firewall, but it made no difference. As I say, clear as a bell with engine off or running below 2600 RPM. Transmission is unaffected: good at all RPM. VERY frustrating! I tried borrowing an identical radio: problem persisted, therefore radio not at fault. Considering installing a seperate intercom, but I'd like to clear up this problem first. The only things I've added since buying the aircraft are landing light and EGT probe & guage' Cheers, Jim.

avalon bound Just as an aside.......I find it really useful to print the Avalon AIP supp and put the relevant pages in a display folder, and then highlight the extra relevant parts with highlighter. Also the relevant maps, cut to fit, for quick reference. This becomes my bible for the weeks leading up to the event, till I know the procedures inside out..... See you there! Jim

Hi Guys, I've flown in to Avalon Main 3 times now (Zodiac & Jabiru): once on a Thursday around 10.30 (very busy) and the other 2 times before and after the tower was active. The last one was 1730 on the sunday, and it was quiter than flying into our local strip! (eerie!) All I can say is, When it's busy, stay sharp!!! This time weather over Bass Strait looks like giving us a Sunday arrival again, which suits me fine! We'll put the plane in the display paddock and do some sightseeing for a day or so. Hope to catch up with some of you there :thumb_up:. Cheers, Jim.

Hey, does anyone know of a good place to have the above mentioned transponder checked and calibrated? Is the encoder part of the unit, or is it located seperately? Should any light be on to indicate that the thing is working? I have switched it on to "standby" while on the ground, but nothing indicates that it's working (ie; most electronic devices have an "operate" indicating light). There is mention in the installation manual of a "15 minute warm-up time". It is definitely getting 12V between one of the connectors and earth. Any advice would be appreciated. Jim

Can't access photos Hi Admin man, Although I am logged in, I can't access the photo galleries as I used to be able to. Any ideas? zodiac3813 (jim)

Thanks Cloud, I'll try that and let you know how it goes. Cheers, Jim

Hello All, Does anyone out there know if it's possible to adjust the volume of the inbuilt intercom of the ICOM A200? Mine is way too loud, even with the headset volumes wound right back. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers, Jim.