WestCoast

Congratulations Karl.....Am sure you are going to enjoy your new aircraft. I share a hangar with an RV7 owner and he always has a smile on his face! Regards Dave

Ozzie....thanks for providing the link to that U.R. Podcast. Interesting that there is a cheaper alternative as I always thought that the price of the Whacker P12 paste was a bit O.T.T. Would be great if Ian could import it for the shop but for anyone that wants to investigate what was recommended, here is the link: http://www.rotaxparts.net/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=245 Regards Dave

The NGK plugs I have bought in the past from Bert Floods as well as California Power Systems are DCPR8E (described as 912S spark plug - new style) but I guess the 503 may use a different plug to the 912. Dave

Mat...I share a hangar with a guy who built an RV7. Nice aircraft and he has it fitted with Dynon (glass) http://www.dynonavionics.com/ If you decide to go for it, I suggest you order the bright screen versions which is 800 nit as against 400 for the standard screens. (about US$200 extra each for the EFIS & EMS) I have the Dynons with standard brightness screens but as my aircraft is high wing, I don't have any sun glare issues. (see pic) Regards....Dave

If my memory serves me correctly, in 1965 I was paying 6 pounds (about $12) an hour in a C150 and the rate charged for dual or solo was the same. But to put things into perspective, when I got my first flying job in 1967, my pay was $50 per week! Dave

Don....no offense taken, in fact quite the contrary as I greatly appreciate all of the discussion on this subject. There are quite a few things about the Rotax where I can't quite see their logic and even though my engine has less than 150 hours on it, it is now out of warranty so if there is another product that will equally do the job, then I am prepared to investigate it. Thanks again to all that have contributed to the discussion. Dave

Nelson...I started this thread (Spark Plug Heat Paste for Rotax engines ) as Rotax are very specific on the subject and I was interested to learn what others were using. Below is some documentation from Rotax and you will see what I mean:-

Thanks all for the feedback on this subject. I have ordered some Unick silicone heat transfer compound from Jaycar and will see how it goes. Dave

Thanks Paul.....does your prop have a time limit for a service check? Mine is a Neuform 3 blade variable pitch and the manufacturer requires it to be sent back to the factory in Germany after 500 hours or 3 years (whichever occurs first). The three years will be up in 15 months time, so I am hoping that I can get it done in Australia rather than shipping it to Germany which will be an expensive exercise. Regards Dave

Paul..what prop do you have fitted? Regards Dave

What heat paste is everybody using on their spark plugs? I have been told that Rotax only approve the use of Wacker P12 however it is hard to come by and I believe there is only one supplier in Australia who charge AUD$157.85 for a 90 ML tube. I have in the past bought the plugs from this supplier and they charge AUD$1.50 to apply paste to each plug, however I recently bought a bunch of plugs from the USA at a great price, so would like to paste them myself. Dave

Gearbox Removal [ATTACH]4706.vB[/ATTACH] Removed the gearbox today using a home-made 'puller' and slide hammer. (see pic) Worked just fine and did not take very long to complete. Managed to buy a 41mm long socket for $54 but the expensive bit was the Loctite ($76.00 for the flange sealant (518), thread retaining compound (648) and Loctite 'Chisel' cleaning fluid.) When packed it weighed in at 7.5 Kg and cost $71.20 to send to Victoria on a next day delivery basis.

I have been having the same problems trying to source a 41mm (long) socket...will try again today. Yes I agree...it's getting expensive. I saw this on a U.S. website and am wondering if Rotax will be as generous in Australia. Per AVweb, Rotax will be picking up the entire bill for this recall. Rotax Gearbox MSB Issued Rotax has issued a manadatory service bulletin (PDF) affecting specific 912 and 914-series engine gearboxes after a fault was found with the material used in making the gears. Under severe operating conditions, it's possible for gear teeth to break. The fix calls for replacement of the gears but the good news is that Rotax is paying the shot. Removal and replacement of the gearbox, the gear set and the installation of the new gears is all covered, as is the freight. [more] This is a significant test of Rotax's constantly expanding service and supply network as its engines flood the mainstream aviation network, particularly in the U.S., thanks to the burgeoning popularity of the Light Sport Aircraft category. The MSB comes two weeks before the Sport Aviation Expo in Sebring, Fla. where about 80 percent of the aircraft will be Rotax-powered and their owners and manufacturers ready to give feedback. _________________

My gearbox will be removed next Tuesday and sent to Bert Floods in Melbourne as Wal has the rebuild kits in stock. Here are some pictures of a home-made gearbox puller from the USA that I copied when I made mine. 2 x 1/8" x 1 1/4" x 10" flat steel stock 1 x 1/8" x 1 1/4" x 10" angle iron. Drill a hole in the end of the 2 flat stock pieces with a 5/16" bit (for the M8 mounting bolts on the gearbox). On the other end of the flat stock drill another hole for 3/8" bolt. On the angle iron drill a 3/8" hole on each end. You are going to mount the angle iron onto the two pieces of flat stock with a 3/8" bolt. Next drill a hole in the center of the angle iron to accept the end of a slide hammer or dent puller which ever term you like. Your new gearbox puller mounts to the gearbox at the ends of the flat stock with an m8 bolt. Buy two new m8 x 1.25 thread x 1 3/4" long bolts. When you mount this up to the gearbox use a 4-5 washers as stand offs between the gearbox housing and the flat stock steel. This allows it to easily clear the prop hub mount. Then attach the slide hammer and a pull or two later the gearbox is hopefully in your hands. ATTACH]4250[/ATTACH][ATTACH]4673.vB[/ATTACH]

That is correct....the 80 HP 912UL engines are not affected.

Paul.....I have yet to speak to Bert Floods in Melbourne but from what I understand from owners in the USA, you have to remove the prop gearbox and engine gear train and send it to Rotax for them to do a rebuild. Here is a link to a video showing the procedure to remove & reinstall the prop gearbox. http://www.rotax-owner.com:80/exp/EXP-SB-912-056M.htm My L.A.M.E. has told me it should be a fairly straight forward procedure although a special tool is required to remove the gearbox however this should not be too hard to make. Down time will depend on how quickly Bert Floods can do the rebuild. If we are in line with the USA on this, then all parts and labour for the rebuild will be taken care of by Rotax however removal & re-installation will be at the owners expense. Dave

There will be some unhappy Rotax 912/914 owners when they see the latest SB from Rotax ( http://www.rotax-owner.com/si_tb_info/serviceb/SB-912-056.pdf ) as there has been a problem with a batch of gearboxes (mine included). I gather there has been a defect in the metal used (to quote Rotax " a slightly increased amount of irregularity in the form of material inclusions" ) so the gearboxes & engine gear trains need to be replaced. My engine has less than 150 hours on it Regards Dave

Thanks everyone for the feedback.....looks like Shell Adv. VSX4 is the way to go. I was a little hesitant about VSX4 initially as when I phoned the Shell technical info line, they insisted that it was a fully synthetic oil ( see this description http://www.motonational.com.au/product_details.php?pid=1145 ) yet Rotax were recommending it, even if using leaded Avgas but if Rotax say it is O.K. then I guess there should be no problem. Regards Dave

I would be interested to hear what brand & viscosity oils other Rotax 912ULS owners/operators are currently using. Also what frequency are you changing your oil & any other comments. The link below is the last information on the subject from Rotax that I am aware of:- http://www.rotax-owner.com/si_tb_info/serviceinfo/si912016914019.pdf Thanks Dave

Ben...can't help with the location, but I believe it is one of the earlier model Cessna 177A or possibly 177B Cardinals (see here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cessna_177 ) Regards Dave

Very sad news indeed.......no details other than that reported below:- Two men have been confirmed dead after their light aircraft crashed in Western Australia's Central Wheatbelt. Police say a 50-year-old man from Bindoon and a 58-year-old High Wycombe resident were both licenced pilots. Police say the men had taken off from Bindoon, north-east of Perth, about 7.00am (AWDT) this morning and were heading to Northam. It is believed they planning to pick up another aircraft before returning to Bindoon. They were due back about lunchtime and reported overdue around 1.00pm. A search was launched and the wreckage of the aircraft was found east of Bindoon off the Bindoon Dewars Pool Road about an hour later. Paramedics were flown to the crash site by the state's rescue helicopter.

Bigglesworth....it might be a good time to review the basics again. • Vref – the reference indicated (CAS) approach speed, usually about 1.3 to 1.5 times Vso plus 50% of the wind gust speed in excess of the mean wind speed. e.g.Vso = 30 knots, wind speed 10 knots gusting to 20 knots, Vref = 1.3 x 30 + 5 knots = 44 knots. Faster, heavier aircraft would tend towards the 1.3 times Vso end; lighter, slower aircraft would tend towards the 1.5 times Vso end. Normal landing procedure is to set up the approach so that an imaginary 15 metre [50 ft] high screen placed before the runway threshold is crossed at Vref and the airspeed is reduced to maybe 1.2 to 1.3 Vso – plus the gust allowance – when rounding out prior to touchdown. The ground distance from the screen to the touch-down point can be roughly estimated, using the 1-in-60 rule, from the approach slope. For example with a 6° slope – which is around the norm for most light aeroplanes – the distance will be 60/6 × 15 = 150 metres, to which must be added any float period plus the ground roll distance with normal braking, to give the total landing distance over the standard 15 m screen – in nil wind conditions. Regards Dave

I have an Odyssey PC310 AGM battery (installed in a Rotax 912ULS) which so far has been no problem, even though when I took delivery of the aircraft, the battery was dead flat as the factory had not disconnected the leads prior to shipping. (the Dynon EFIS has an internal lithium battery which draws on the ships battery....hence the flat battery!) In order to maintain the battery in peak condition (as there are times when I don't fly for several weeks) I purchased a float charger which is designed for these situations. Regards Dave

Motza.....as I am sure we all are, I am glad that you and your passenger are OK although more than a little shaken by the experience......I know I would be. Also I am pleased that you had the confidence to share this incident with the rest of us on this forum as regardless of how much experience any of us might have in aviation, recreationally or professionally, you never stop learning. Mike's (Pelorus32) advice is sound......seek out your instructor and discuss the incident in detail with him. As for the rest of us, I can only echo what BrentC said.....and that is to keep it friendly and remain objective as we don't want to discourage people from sharing their experiences for fear of retribution or ridicule. Regards Dave

Mike...yes I agree that extensive research is required prior to purchase. I am not familiar with the Garmin transponders and did not specifically mean the GTX330 although I believe the 330 conforms with European standards, but have heard good reports as to the Garmin reliability. I personally only have experience with the Becker BXP6401 which as I mentioned has the extended squitter capability. (conforms with EASA ETSO-2C112a / FAA TSO-C112) Chris did not mention a time frame with regard to delivery of his aircraft....but if it is well into the future, it may be worth waiting for the CASA subsidy.....but when and if that happens is anybody's guess!