Jim188

Hi Flyboy1960, I get it, some people around here like to have this Ford versa Holden, banter thing happening with Rotax and Jabiru, Sadly, but you missed my point, I was not flying a flag for anyone. I was just very surprise to see the Rotax numbers like that coming from RAAus, because I have never meet anyone in my aviation world who knows of a 912/914 Rotax failure or anyone who may wish to acknowledges this, but it obviously does happens by the looks. Have great day. Jim188

Hi All, I read with interest all this banter about Jabiru engine and their reliability issues. I think we all know Jabiru has had some engines issues and that's why if you own a Gen 1, 2 or 3 you should know about the different up grades that Jabiru has brought forward for these engines. But does every Jabiru engine owner do those up grades, I don't think so ??????? I find it interesting on this forum, does anyone every ask when a Jabiru engine failures, has the engine owner done all the appropriate engine up grade or maintenance as directed by Jabiru, e.g. replacing single value springs with double springs or replacing pistons with recess piston crowns. What about pilots that don't really don't understand the importance of doing a cruise climb with a Jabiru Gen 1, 2 or 3 engine and that owner is always having compression, head bolt or torque issues and it's never their own fault. Maybe before we jump straight into blaming Jabiru for every engine malfunction or fault, we should understand there is at least 4 possible factors that can contribute to an engine malfunction or failure. The Pilot The Owner or Maintainer Parts (or the person who approved the substitute parts) The Manufacturer. I heard a Jabiru crankshaft that failed, the owner was sure it was Jabiru's fault. What most people never got to hear, is that engine had a bad prop strike a year or so before and the owner never bulk stripped the engine, did I hear someone ask, what's a bulk strip? Or what about the Jabiru engine that failure where the owner never did the double value spring upgrade in a timely manner. Then one day, smashed a valve into the top of a piston and then blamed Jabiru for having such a shit engine, because the owner never did the valve up grade as told. I am guessing some on this forum are not even members of RAAus, but in their Magazine issue 103, page 95, for the first half of 2022, there was 16 engine malfunctions or failures. 9 were Rotax and 7 were Jabiru, oh boy, and for all this time I have been hood winked by all those Rotax flying pilots telling us their engines just never, never, never, never ever fail and now that just seems to be one big porky. 😃😂 Jim188

Red750 would you like to paste the link?

I did cast a fairly wide net about other imported aircrafts. My apologise to all those other aircraft owners who do have Australia dealers that give them a great back up service and who have invest large sums in having good parts inventory here in Australia. Hat's off to them as well and I will say the same thing to those aircraft owners, try to support your aircraft dealer the best you can and where you can with your parts needs and I don't have any interest in an aviation business. But, I am a small business owner and know, if you don't support your aircraft dealer, they may not be there when you really need their help and advice to fix your plane, and now you are waiting those 4 month to get some part for the other side of the world not knowing if you have everything you need or the correct way to fix your beloved plane correctly. Cheers Jim188

Out of interest, I really don't understand why so many Jabiru owners come here to get their parts advice. If you are in Australia, why not just contact Jabiru via email or phone and order your parts. I have found the Jabiru team always supply me with a great service and there is no debate if they are the right parts or not, as with those wheel bearings, I ordered from Jabiru one day and they arrived the next. Can I tell you a story about the Jabiru Team at Bundy, in my aircraft log book, the builder of my aircraft who lived on the east coast of Australia was on a trip around Australia, shortly after landing at Perth, the refueler stepped back into the Jabiru prop and cracked it. It was late in the afternoon Queensland's time, but they rang Jabiru, the option was there to replace it with a fibre prop, but it meant more work and time for Jabiru to cut out the spin and set the pitch of the prop. So the Jabiru team got to work that afternoon/evening and then got the prop on a flight back into Brisbane that night. The next morning in Perth the prop arrived with the spinner and all the bolts to mount the new prop without hassle. In my aircraft log book it tells the tale and they departed from Perth only 80 minutes later than their planned time of departure. This would not have happened if this was and imported aircraft and really the Jabiru team does a great job in servicing their flock, so spent a few more dollars where you by supporting our aircraft manufacture. Cheers Jim188

I was following this Cessna tyre thing in SA for some two years now. They say the take off roll is shorter, the idea, is that the Jab has less ground frication on the ground roll, I guess it will make little difference on the black stuff. I also read, they lost some airspeed at cruise, but the handling on their bush strips was so much better with less worry about the nose wheel falling into an animal track and prop strike. Anyway JackC, I hope this helps with your question about the bigger tyres, one last thing, you'll have to forget about it unless you own a 19 or Exp register Jabiru.

Here is what a Jab EXP might look like with bigger tyres, not sure if this pic is real or photoshopped.

Yep, you to guys are so right if you continually push the envelope with no understanding or training of how things can bit you. This is why I was so surprised to read this pilot was the selling agent for the aircraft type and then seeing what his control inputs were to this wing drop. He's one lucky guy and everyone should lean and have a good look at the rudder work and if you don't understand what you are looking for, you better not be a STOL pilot until you do understand what you are looking for.

Well guys I am a bit slow to post about this thread and the video of the pilot who stalled his STOL Aircraft. To give the pilot a little bit of credit, it seemed he was starting to stop the rotation by the use of the correct rudder input as the wing hit the ground. But, I am surprised no one on the forum has commented why the wing drop happen, besides the obvious, that the wing was stalling. What I see was pilot error, not because he was flying to slow, but you can see the pilot used right rudder as either the right wing started drop or this made the right wing drop and stall as the pilot used right rudder for a split second. That's all it takes to make a wing drop on the stall. The pilot should have instinctively used left rudder as the right wing started to drop. If you can't see the rudder, look at the video on full screen and watch the rudder input just before or as the right wing drops. If you are going to fly on the stall like this, go up and practice, practice and practice again your rudder control on the stall with an appropriately trained instructor and aircraft. They will teaching you how to picking up your stalling wing and then the other wing as it starts to stall and then the other wing as it starts to stall again and so on. Practice this with height until you can use the correct rudder input and control instinctively the aircraft's roll from its stalling wings and doing this without using any ailerons inputs, which just stalls the wing even further. With this manoeuvre is called a "Falling Leaf" and it trains you to step on the correct rudder input instinctively with timing as the wing starts to drop, not has dropped. Jim188

Hi RFguy, Oh dear, sorry RFguy, I had read another post recently on FB about the intake O-rings in the plenum and incorrectly mixed the two replies up as I did not reply immediately at the time of reading each posts. I can see very clearly which area of the engine you are talking about, sorry. Cheers Jim188

Hi RFguy, I am please you have found yourself an aircraft and it is a Jabiru 230. So the Gen 4 has been flying for 5 years now and it's continuing to prove itself, and as it does the value of your airframe is also slowly heading up. As a Jabiru owner, if you are not flying regulars hours each and every month with your Gen 2 or 3's engine, you are most likely going to have steel barrel/corrosion/compression issues. It's not a big deal, but can cause owners to have higher workshop hours in maintaining their compressions with in specs. Most flying school don't have issues with this or for those who fly regular hours every other week, as their barrel don't have time for surface rusting causing compression issues. For me, my Gen 4 is now 5 years old years and just been through GA annual. The Gen 4's have Nikasil coated barrels which don't rust. So with low irregular flight hours between annuals as my aircraft has done to date, this past issue of steel barrel/corrosion/compression is a thing of the past and proving to be a non issue with compressions being in the 77-80/80 leak down range some five years later. RFguy, are you right about the Plenum O-rings and their operating temperature? My CHT are just getting to 125c, so I am wondering if the plenum in a Gen 4 is not getting anywhere near that temperature you talked about. As the plenum has vast amounts of air flowing around and through its, so being cooled. This is just a though I had why Jabiru may not have be so willing to listen to your theory about the need to up-grade plenum O-rings. Cheers Jim188

Well Glen, I am not sure how long you would need to wait before installing a Gen 4, when your are talking about spending money on a 912 to put in your Jab. My Gen 4 was installed in late 2017 and has low average hours, being 4 years of age . Here are some Stats, Less an 200 hours. Uses no oil between 25 hour oil changes. Before HD piston change, at 2.5 years old, leak downs where 72-75 over 80. Since the HD piston recall, last 2 annuals, one recently, the leak downs have been 77-80 over 80. Temperatures, OAT 19-34. DA at average 3000-4500FT With a 75knts climb to circuit height and then cruise climb, CHT spread across the 6, 106c to 121c. If you pushed very very hard to see the temp envelope by an extended 70 knot climb, I found it is very hard to get it up near my orange range. My EGT's spread across the 6, are in the range of 619c to 677c. My oil temp is always stable, but gets a bit cold during the winter months. I had a HD pistons recall, they contacted me, great service from all the staff. Even offered a car to see the sights of Bundaberg at no costs for the one and half days I was there. I know someone will want to know about my EFIS instrumentation. All my EGT and the CHT read the same temp before the engine is started and the OAT sensor reads within one degree of them before pulling the plane out of the hangar. As to the accuracy of my sensors, I bench tested the CHT and EGT probe against a Fluke quality multimeter and thermocouple/ sensor. I did this with the CHT's and EGT's sensors still attached to EFIS and using a heat sink with brackets made to hold either a EGT or CHT probe. Then using a variable heat source to vary the heat temperature, I check each sensors and EFIS reading across the whole temp range and against the Fluke meter reading. I had to replaced all EGT's and one CHT sensor. Yep, all the sensor worked, but their readings were out by as much as +- 15%. What are these Gen 4 issues you talk about Glen? I have no compression issues, caused by the rusting of the steel barrels from irregular flight hours and I would be a prime candidate for that. My CHT could be seen as being to cold and EGT are not even worth watching. I had the HD pistons recall what else can I say. Happy Days so far and an easy 100 hourly inspection with a Gen 4. Cheers Jim188

I have enjoyed reading this posts about a Jabiru transplant, I know where such a Jab was out past Warwick for sale some time back. What really interested me about this, no one was actually really that interested in buying it from what I was told. I have read a lot of this thread and it seems many people are having too much fun tinkering with their Gen2 and Gen 3's in looking for the answers to their issues and I am wondering what they would do if they had no issues to fix. I wonder why no one has mention what is the easiest answer of all. RF, you need to take a look at this equation, (Gen2 + Gen3)-1 = Gen 4, sell your Gen 2 or 3 and buy a Gen 4. I own one and it has no temp issues at anytime and I have 6 CHT, 6 EGT and Oil Temp. I realize many people on this forum love the challenge of tinkering with their Gen 2 or 3's, and these engine for them are a match made in heaven for those amongst us. But my advice for those of you who are tied of scrolling through such place looking for answers to solve your frustration of temp issues, get your Jab into a Gen 4 and instead of you watching your temps, you can start watching the scenery going by. Cheers to All Jim188