Kyle Communications

I might turn up on the Sunday...driving of course....my mate is supposed to be doing a flying demo of his radio control 1/5 scale A10 warthog with 2 of 30 lb thrust turbines in it in the morning but he cant stay long as he has to be with me at 3.00 pm on saturday because he is my "best man"

Mark

I think the tiger tails set about 3 mtrs apart along the line/s would be a far better proposition.. After working in the electricity supply industry for 10 years and involved in the HV side tiger tails we used can be seen very well and to have them "gapped" like that on the mains would be much easier to see...the black/yellow or red/white either would be fine although my preference would be the black/yellow

Mark

Hi Gibbo

Well I can tell you around the Bundaberg Childers area ERGON don't talk anything about being free. As in my post it cost me to get some balls on the SWER line and there was no talk about any other type of markers to be put on the line. Mine is a 11kv swer line and was done by a "live line" crew basically its a insulated cherry picker and they do it with special insulated sticks. I wish they would have done it for free for me and as far as cost price goes $600.00 for 3 of red plastic 300mm balls is pretty steep.

I know the line is there but I got it done just for other pilots and in case someone had a emergency and needed to put down on the strips to make sure it will be safe. To be honest I would have preferred the tiger tails spread along the mains but they are not the "approved" type for airstrip identification according to ERGON. They even have special forms for it which I had to fill out and provide distance measurement etc to where the balls had to be placed.

I even have a mate who is very high up in the organisation and I had a whinge to him about it...knowing he probably couldn't do anything anyway but at least it made me feel better :)....even he said they charge for everything nowadays because their budgets are so tough they have to make money where ever they can

Mark

WEll I have just gone through this saga. I put 2 of 400mtr long airstrips on my property up at Booyal. Ergon energy are the provider around there. I spent over 10 years working for the SEQEB now Energex as electrical fitter mechanic and the last 2 years I was doing network switching out in the field right up to 66,000 volts. I also did a lot of "linework" etc so I know how the system operated within these organisations. I rang Ergon to get a price on putting 3 balls along the SWER line at the southern end of my property which is about 100 mtrs from the end of my strips. I know where the lines are but others dont so I thought it very prudent to at least have the lines marked for safety and my peace of mind for others who may use the strips.

The quote came back as

labor $1242.88

Materials 532.13

Capital allowance$ 2175.22

Total inc gst $2392.00

After sending a few emails back and forth and me spewing about 600 bucks for 3 plastic 300mm red balls the job was finally completed some time the before last Monday. I emailed twice to find out when it would be done but got no answer..I waited around 2 months just for the quote from Ergon then its been at least another month but I had to go up to the property last Monday and when I got to the gate I noticed the balls had gone up..they were not there 2 weeks before

here are a couple of pics..the angle I took the pics at dont quite show exactly where they are but there is one on my cross strip and the 2 together are on the main strip. My strip goes up and down with a hill in the middle and the house (next door) is about 100mtrs or so past the powerline. This line is quite low due to it being in the gully but I decided to put the balls on it any just to make sure it can be seen. The powerline is at the edge of my property fence. Pics were taken with a telephoto so objects look closer than they appear..you can see by one of the photos where my strip ends and how far away the next door neighbour is.

Mark

Hi all

I worked on the wings yesterday and today. Forgot to take my camera with me to get some more pics :( . Anyway yesterday I tried fitting the fibreglass tip to the wing...well that process has got big knobs on it its the worst part of this whole build so far. In fact I have given up on it for the time until I have a look at Steve's wings tomorrow or the next day so I made a cradle to hold the both wings for when they are completed to keep them safe and out of the way. I made the simple cradle and shifted the left wing into it and then put the half done right wing on the table. I taped off the areas under the rib seams that I need now for the glue and fitted the skin tensioner that was bent the wrong way as it wont make any difference got all the skins clecoed then turned the wing over to fit the nose skin sheet and get it all setup ready to pull it around the nose ribs when Denice was handy to add a extra pair of hands. Well it got it all blocked up and the straps on etc and pulled some tension on the skin. This time after the first one I added a couple of extra pieces of wood to help bend the skin around at the nose. I will scan a drawing of how I did it...Well after getting it all setup and the straps pulled up a bit I just went ahead and pulled them up a bit more and the extra wood rails I put work so well I continued on and bingo the skin was pulled up to the right holes it was so easy I couldn't believe it...and its a much better job than the first skin I did. I will get over there this week and take some more pictures. I wont be working on the plane now for a couple of weeks. I am getting married (so I have broken 2 out of the three rules in the 3 F rule :) ) next Saturday and then have to go up to the property on the Tuesday and Wednesday and hope the sewerage tank install doesn't get put off by rain again so it will be the following weekend when I get a go at it again. That weekend I will attempt those bloody wing tips again. Does anyone have any tips on how to struggle with the wingtip moulding. I thought they were plastic on other savs but mine are molded fibreglass

Mark

Hi All

I was again able to do some work on the wings today. I riveted the trailing edge and am pretty happy with the result..this was another area I wasn't that confident about but again no cause for concern once you start its relatively easy to get a good job. The trailing edge isn't perfect but pretty close to it so I am happy. What I did do was drill out the glue I put in the first row holes on the top leading edge to see how it would go. I am extremely happy how the skin turned out so I have drilled out the next row and you can see in the pics how the sheet has bounced up a bit. the issue now is of course I haven't got tape behind the hole to force the glue to spread over the top of the rib so what I have done is to put glue into the hole of the rib this will set then when I force glue in there again it will fill the gap on the top of the rib I will let it dry and then of course drill out the hole and then rivet the skin again and it will be great. I have done the same with the holes in the ribs in the row behind the main spar and will do the same this will stop that horrible looking dents in that row in every savannah. I have put a pic up of the glue I use it is pretty honky stuff its about $22.00 per tube so not cheap but it is aerospace stuff.

The next thing I did was put =on the tip skins on the top,nose and bottom and then put in the edge supports for the tip molding and tip cover. Everyone says this is a bugger of a job and so far I can see that it is. Trying to get the molded front section of the tip in the right place is going to be a drama but anyway I will persevere. Oh I almost forgot on the right wing I will be covering all the holes I glue this time so it will be really easy to get the skin right. I am a little disappointed with the skin attachments on the underside of the wing around the nose ribs you can see in the pics these are pulled in but again its pretty much the same on all the savs I have seen and being the underside no where near as critical so i think I will leave them like that. The last thing I did today was put on the flaperon attachments this took a while as getting the rivets in the holes into some of the trailing ribs was a bit of a effort but it all came out well. I can look from the tip of the wing and see through all 4 of the attachments while looking down the hinge hole so everything must be straight.

Well I am off for a couple of days tomorrow up to my property we are getting the Ecosafe sewerage system main tanks and filters installed on tuesday I have to be onsite at 7am so will go up tomorrow and finish off a few jobs there and sleep over for tuesday. After they leave we will have a working shower and toilet...all the more reason to get this aircraft finished so we can fly up there instead of a 3hr drive each way.

Mark

Got a few hours on the wings today. Got some help to turn them over ready to rivet the bottom. I also lifted the bottom nose skin leaving the first cleco in on the underside near the nose to look at that gap between the skin and the first rivet hole on the nose skin that puts the big divit in the leading edge when you pull the rivet. I got some tape and blocked the hole in the rib from the underside so that when I squeezed some epoxy in from the hole it would hit the rib and spread nicely over it and fill the gap to the skin. When the glue drys I will drill a hole and then put in the rivet. The glue I am using is thixotropic which means it doesn't run easily. its a special super bond epoxy made by loctite/ Hysol. We use it in out turbine powered radio control models in the areas that require super strength. It uses a special applicator and mixing nozzels its not very cheap but has a incredible bond to wood or metal so it will bond to the rib and the skin and will not compress so it should make a great base for the rivet to pull the skin onto. I will drill and rivet this tomorrow and post the pictures. I was going to do something similar with the row of holes just behind the main spar which is another area I have seen on most savs that has this issue. I may even pull out the second row of rivets in the nose as well and do the same to them if this works out to be very successful.

I have rivetd most of the wing and just left clecos in where I need to fit the main tank and the extra tank. I have to cut out the second tank hole and on the top skin under this I have cut new wing skin tensioners that will go in just like the originals if you are not using a second tank but of course they are flat and no right angle on it so the tank will fit. This tensioner will be sikaflexed to the wing skin and also riveted at each end just the the original was intended and this will also cover all the holes in the skin. So tomorrow I will be cutting out the second tank hole in the skin and looking at mounting the tanks also I will be doing the tip sheeting as well and hopefully doing the trailing edge rivets. I will make a stand for the wing so it sits nose down in its storage rack and that will put the trailing edge up in the air and make it easier to do those mushroom rivets. i will clamp some steel bar either side so it makes the trailing edge nice and straight when its riveted...hopefully :)..its pretty good now actually but this will help to finish it off nicely.

Mark

Actually no...most australian models do tend to have different/extra parts in them to comply with the minimum specifications required by the ACMA. When it comes to two way type radios the australian spec is usually higher than the american spec for example usually harmonic suppression for the aussie model needs to be between 2 to 5 dB better. If you look at what I posted you will see that some models are approved for different operations here...this is the reason for it what sells in other places around the world do not necessarily comply here.

Radio gear is what I do for a living both in sales and service and we must comply with the australian regulations even when repairs are done once finished they must comply with these specs.

Mark

ok got to do some riveting of the top skin today...boy I glad I have air riveters there is a lot of rivets and that is just the top skin. In general I am reasonably happy but the finish could be a lot better. Just trying to work out how to get a better result with the next wing. There is a issue you see on pretty much every single savannah even the factory ones and it is the first and sometimes the second rivet up from the leading edge on the top skin. I have put the second rivet in but not that first one as you can see in the pics. The skin gets pulled down a bit onto these rivets and I want to make it a better finish that that. I think Ron Hoey has done it and I know steve up the road from me will modify his wings as well. I will leave the rivet out of the first row of holes and possibly even pull out the second row I have fitted and inject a filler into the hole to fill the space over the hole in the rib. When it drys I will re drill the hole and then rivet the skin this will make it hold its shape better around the curve and look much better. There is also another place where the rivet pulls the skin lower and that is the first row of holes directly behind the main spar I have left these rivets out as well you can see it in the pic with the original tank hole in the skin. I measured out the distance and got the spare cutout from the fuel tank today and get my mate who has a sheet metal shop to cut me the 620mm strips I need to the top skin tensioners where the tanks go and these will also block the row of holes in the skin from the extra tanks you can see these in the pics as well the holes that is :). In general the top skin is pretty reasonable. Well I am really busy this week so wont get a chance to get the underside riveted until next weekend

Mark

80Kts

The whole process so far has been extremely easy the nose skin was the part I was dreading and with a bit of thought and the right gear it turned out to be relatively easy. My only dissapointment (and I was fore warned) is the manual. it does take several readings and sit downs with the parts to decipher it. Its not that bad really but when people tell you to read it several times you really need to do so. It have everything in it but maybe its the italenglish that is off putting. The drawings are quite good but you need to look at them many times just to make sure bits and holes are in the right places.

People of my age will know the famous "mechano set" well this is just a 600+ piece 14000 rivet mechano set. It is very well engineered and made and so far its just been a great thing to put it together and I just cant wait untill I get to fly it as well

Mark

Hi all

Ok got a good go at the left wing today. I was a bit uneasy about doing the nose skin and cocking it up but I am reasonably happy for my first ever attempt at one. I lifted the top skin and checked that the rear ribs were at 90 deg where all that wobble was on the skin and it certainly seems to be ok so I will put a skin tensioner on it to cover the holes from the inside and I think that will fix it. I measured the cutout for the tank and I can cut some new tensioners out of it they wont have the right angle on them of course as that will interfere with the tanks. I decided to bend the skin from the bottom and not from the top because I was going to use my table for the straps. I am lucky to have quite a lot of 50mm wide proper 2.5 tonne ratchet straps like used on trucks and the way I built my table I have rails at the bottom to attach things to. When you wrap the straps around the wing itself you have to be really careful not to bend the rear edge of the wing where all those 3/32 clecos are so I got some 90 x 35 wood and attached it to the edge of the table you can see it in one of the pics I have uploaded. The straps then go over the top of this rail and don't touch the wing on the edge so it preserves this from any tension. It also has the advantage to keeping the wing dead straight on the back edge and spreads the tension load over the whole of the rear not just where the straps or if you used blocks.

The straps where then attached to the bottom rails at the sides of the bench which gave me a nice angle of pull. I bought a 4.8 mtr length of 35 x 70 and cut it down to suit the wing total length. A 3.6 mtr would have been perfect but Bunnings did not have one straight piece of wood in the place in that size so I opted for the longer one where I found a straight piece. Started with 4 straps but found I needed another so the 5 of 50mm straps was just right and easy to handle. Denice gave me a hand so it was just the two of us and we managed it quite easily to get the skin bent. I was surprised how easy it all was actually to do. The real pain was getting the nose ribs lined up on the holes in the skin. I probably spent more time trying to get that done than doing anything else. That was the part that got the sweat going today. There are a few small marks on the skin that I can see but certainly they are small and not that noticeable but will be able to see better when I get some rivets into it. I will be working some more on the wing tomorrow and start to get some riveting done on the skins. Will post some more pics tomorrow night

Mark

There are some shops and traders here that import Icom radios as sell them without any approvals here. The ACMA has very strict rules on all radios transmitters that are approved for use here so that they do comply to the Australian specifications. The actual Icom list and their uses for models are below

Ic-A15 only for airborne use

Ic-A6 AUS IS australian type approved for pilot and ground use

Ic-A24 approved ONLY for airborne use

Ic-A110 approved for airborne and ground use

IC-A210 NOT type approved for ground use

These details are straight out of the Australian Icom dealer manual

Please also be aware that if you buy the unit from overseas or a "grey importer" here Icom Australia will NOT supply or support any warranty on that item in any way

Mark

Hi I am looking for strobes and other lights for my Savannah I am building did Ron 5335 get back to anyone about where he got the 3Watt leds from?

Mark

80Kts

Not that I know of.... Brauniger treat the Alpha a bit different to their other gear they make. They make heaps of stuff for chute and microlight guys. The Alpha they seem to treat as more along the line for larger ultra lights etc

Mark

The Brauniger Alpha MFD I have got does

Airspeed

Altitude

Vertical Speed

RPM

Fuel highly accurate I am told done by entering the amount of fuel you put into tanks and it lets you know how much you have by computing what is left by using its fuel flow sensor

2 x CHT

2 x EGT

Oil pressure

Oil Temp and or water temp

Time (real time plus date) (Engine hour meter that can not be changed by user) ( Flight time or engine running time per flight)

Battery monitoring

Backup internal battery in case of power failure while flying for up to 1 hr

The unit only draws 35ma total

High Voltage protection for ALPHAMFD

To avoid damages by high voltage causing by defective voltage regulators the Alpha-

MFD has since 2002 an integrated voltage protection circuit. In case of a defect voltage regulator the external fuse will fail and the ALPHAMFD is supplied by the 9 volt back-up battery – battery display is blinking now. After repair, please replace the defect fuse ( 150 … 200 mA )

Mine is the C version which measures from 24 to 130 knots

Another reason I bought this unit is it connects to your intercom and all parameters it measures you can input a max and min value and when it reaches this value it will sound a alarm in your headset then also that unit of measurement will flash on your display so you know exactly what maybe going wrong before its too late and you should get no surprises you also must input the VNE in for the aircraft and the stall speed you wish to have as your minimum

Mark

Hi CFICare

Well I am certainly no expert on the matters but in all the talking I have done to many more knowledgeable people than me who have flown these aircraft and have a lot of time under their belts all say they wish they had a manifold pressure indication as it will tell you the power output of the engine under all circumstances. This is a small but innocuous gauge to install but I think it would be a good reference to have in the cockpit for this function. The fuel pressure I will have a backup electric pump installed as well again I think its also something that will just be glanced at regularly just to make sure all is well especially during takeoff.

Mark

Hi 80K

Pic attached of a pretty standard Sav panel I think its pretty crowded. Mine will be a bit different. I am going to use a Brauniger Alpha MFD panel Bräuniger Flugelectronic (Products :: AlphaMFD :: Operation)

it has everything in it and updates extremely fast. Some of the more expensive have a lag in their display. The only other gear I will have is a ball, fuel pressure and manifold pressure...a gps of course and a manual compass. This will save around 4 or 5kg in weight at least with wiring and instruments

Mark

Spent quite a few hours today cleaning and painting contact bits on the wing sheeting. I am currently working on the left wing. It has all gone together pretty smoothly so far...except...if you look at the photos with the top sheeting clecoed so far. I checked and made sure the tops of the ribs were at 90 deg to ensue good sheet contact and straightness but you can see in the attached pics that the 2 sections where the fuel tanks go are some what wonkey. I think I will remove the sheet and look pretty hard at the ribs and try to fix this. There are no stiffeners over the main tank and when you fit the extra tanks you have to leave out another set of stiffeners in the next outboard from the root section. If you look at the other pictures I have taken of the other sections on the wing are much better. I believe this is because these sections have the wing sheet stiffeners riveted to the top sheet and it must hold the sheet better. Has anyone else had this issue and if so how did you solve it?. Maybe I just made a stuff up and those ribs are not quite right but will know once I lift the sheet off

The other photo is of Laurie Strickland's recently completed VG XL at Caboolture this morning he has around 8 hrs on it now and loves it. He did make a comment about the static port. He doesn't like it and says it doesn't give a true indication and he is going to fit a new one the same as the one on the Jabiru. Laurie owned and flew his Jab for many years. He will get a Jab static port the same as the pic I have here and put it up on the Savannah fin the same as the Jab. has anyone here had any issues with the static port on their Sav's

Mark

I was at Aerodrome Rd today getting some bits and decided to go to the Beaufort restoration hangar to see if I could find the ASAP Aircraft Spares to see what they have in stock. Well I got to say he has pretty much everything. Clecos (pretty cheap too) 2000 series alu sheet also 6061, pitot tubing some chrome moly a huge range of AN nuts bolts and washers also titanium bolts and nuts etc, aussie made drills he will even hire out the special crimpers and other tools required to build aircraft. Lots of older ww2 instruments and he refurbs compasses out of tiger moths and lots of other older aircraft. It truly is a aladdin's cave of gear. The guy who runs the shop is the owner of the Beaufort and the restoration project. He tells me he will be at Watts bridge on the weekend to promote his business I don't know what he will have there but give him a ring if you are chasing something. he is a really nice guy to boot and a real aircraft enthusist. Contact for the business are

ASAP Aircraft Spares

Hangar 106 157 McNaught rd

Caboolture Airfield

Caboolture 4510

PH 07-54954951

Fax 07 54281613

Mob 0417731585

Email [email protected]

Regards

Mark Kyle

Well had a big weekend building. I am surprised at how much you get done things are going together pretty quickly. On saturday I was going to skin the wings so got everything primed and rotated the wing over and set about fitting the skin support strips to the bottom skin. I actually put them onto the wing then layed the skin over and lined up the thin strips under the skin and riveted only the bits that contact the skin and not the ribs as they need to be done later You can see the strips on the bottom skin this is all on the right hand wing at this stage. I clecoed the skin into position and flipped over the wing to do the top skin. This is where I ran into a slight problem. I have one of the thin skin reinforcement strips wrong supplied. I think it was bent the wrong way as the 6 strips required for each side are all numbered correctly but 9SA163-2 is folded opposite to the way it should be so I can only fit the 5 strips which stops me from completing the right wing. I then checked the strips required for the left wing and they are all numbered correctly and also are correctly folded. The only option was to then put that wing to the side until I get a replacement strip. So now it was onto the left wing panel. I have attached a couple of pics to show how I got the edges of the ribs at right angles. it only takes 10 mins and makes it quite easy and accurate. I think I explained how I did this in a previous post. This wing went together much faster than the right one obviously because I have now built one other half and know how to do it. I have attached the pics of how far I have got. Basically I am about to fit the bottom skin to the left wing and also the strips to the skin and yes I have double checked that I have got all of the correct skin strips and they are the right numbers. I left it today after priming all the contact parts so next time I get over there I can fit the bottom skin roll it over and do the top skin and then the big test I am concerned about and that is bending the nose skin over. I really want to try to do a great job on the nose skin so i think I might try to tee up one of the other savannah guys to give me a hand with that as they have experience with it and I am open to all experienced advice :). Got a big week this week so I doubt if I will get back to do any more work and I have to go up to the farm next weekend to get the shower and the toilet all plumbed up and the water heater fitted ready for the guys to come in and dig the trenches for the sewerage system. Once we get all that in place and working I will be going much faster on the savannah so I can get to fly up there instead of the 3 hr drive

Mark

fixed the pc here are the pics for my explanation

Hi Eighty Knots

The table is great and its so simple. Everyone said to build the kit on top of the box and I started to but I found it was a pain in the backside when you wanted to get the bigger parts out although it says not to leave the parts in the box because they can get moisture and corrode. A local around near where I live is building a Vg XL as well and is about 3/4 done I went and saw Steve and he gave me heaps of good hints and tips...after all he is a LAME for Virgin so he knows his stuff. I just did what he did and when you remove the lid off the box because the box is 4.2 mtrs long you use the lid as the table top. The 2 big rails that run inside the box that the lid actually sits on you remove them from the side of the box as use that as your side rails for the table then just go to Carter Holt as I think you are in NZ and get some 30x75 and cut them in my case Bunnings had 900mm precut in that size I just got a heap of those as they were cheap and some 2.4mtr ones and built the legs on the table while it was upside down and when it was finished I just rolled it over and Voila...one nice straight 4.2mtr long table to build the Savannah on. I am so please I went this way as it gives heaps of room to buil everything on and if your garage is long enough you can build the fuse rear end up at the one end and on the table and when you add the front on it will extend over the front of the table and will make it easier to build things on.I have added a couple of pics to give you the idea 2412_1 is the actual top of the box 2416_1 you can see the top inside rails I removed to make the long edge of the tale these go under the top about 10mm which keeps the top straight as well you can see this in 2612_1. The table way is much better than on the top of the box its so much easier

having troubles uploading the pics will get to it soon

Regards

Mark

Got a chance to do some more work this weekend on the Savannah. Last weekend I finished off the tailplane and went to work on the elevator but discovered I had the skins but no internals for the elevator it was left out when they packed the kit so couldn't get onto that and they have been ordered but there is plenty of work to do. Got all the ribs and brackets out for the right wing and proceeded to do the deburring and cleaning then etching the bits that contact each other. That took a while so that was last weekend. This weekend I got the top of the fin and rudder plastic tips organised. JG gave me some .5mm 6061 sheet which I cut into 30mm wide strips and installed them between the skin and rib in the fin and rudder to allow the plastic caps to be fitted. The plastic tips both needed to be sanded flat at the bottom so they make a nice fit a couple of pics on how I did this as the manual does not mention how to fit these then I set to making all the edges of the ribs to 90 degrees so it fits well on the skins. Its hard going trying to get that right so I screwed a piece of 35x70 to the bench and held the rib flat on its widest side onto the bench then put the edge up against the secured piece of wood then used another piece of the same size wood and tapped and rolled the edges. this worked really well I must say and I had all the edges done in about 10 mins, next made up the rear longeron and did the main assembly of the ribs to the main spar and fitted the strengthening brackets and rear longeron also the small rear ribs and brackets. I hope to get there during the week to do a bit more work on the wing and also should be able to get a lot done on it next weekend

Its been a little while since I last did a update have been going up to the property every second weekend getting shower and toilet and mezzanine floor organised for the shed. The fin and rudder are all riveted and the trailing edge of the rudder I admit I was a little worried about trying to do a nice job of keeping it nice and straight without any warping when putting the blind rivets into. Well that turned out really well I used some alu angle clamped to both sides then gingerly did the riveting trying to make even mushroom heads and most are pretty reasonable in that regard. The only thing is to put the plastic tips on so I have left the very top row of rivets out until I get some thin 6061 to slide between the skins and the frame to make the top edge to rivet to. Got back from the property on sunday early so went over and got the tailplane frame assembled and then proceeded to get the skins on. It all went together very well and I will rivet it all up this weekend. I also hope to get the elevator all done this weekend as well. Then its onto the wings which will be a pretty major job I think just really because of the size of them. I am really enjoying the time when I get to work on this aircraft I was told its great therapy and I do have to agree.

Hi Maj

I have had my airstrips christened. We were up at the property taking gear up for the mezzanine floor I am putting in the shed and Gary and JG were flying from Kilcoy to Monto for the flyin on the saturday. Gary was going to call in and try the strips and JG sent me a message that he would like to come for the ceremony as well. Saturday arrived and it was very windy and as it turned out almost 90 deg crosswind of about 15 to 20 knots. I didn't get a phone call from them so I thought that we wouldn't get a visit and I would see them up at Monto when we drove out there for the Sunday. I was outside just doing some work and all of a sudden Gary overflew so I jumped on the quad and grabbed the video camera and headed off down to the strips. The link attached is not very good quality as I dont know why it uploaded at such a low resolution but you get the idea. The pics I posted when the dozer was doing the strip was 7 weeks prior to this video. The grass has all browned off due to how cold its been up there but new grass is starting on the bare dirt so xmas time I think the strips should be really great. We gave the boys coffee and cake they stayed for about an hour then off they went to Monto for even colder nights :)

Just cut and paste the link.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shTsN2R7hjs