J160 Kit#14 various with Photos

[Ross]

21-07-2008

 

Checked and adjusted aileron to wing clearance on top of aileron leading edge to wing clearance and outer end aileron to wing outer end clearance.

 

Also used template to ensure full travel of up aileron before any binding between aileron and wing. Aileron photos show deflection past the limit of the template before any binding.

 

Removed spiral pvc wrap around wiring in engine bay as regard as a fire hazard after lighting a sample with a lighted match. It lit up and was self sustaining dripping hot burning PVC.

 

Removed stand offs and used two cable ties at each anchor point instead where there were a number of small wires.

 

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[Admin]

You are getting their Ross - I bet you are already planning her first flight :thumb_up:

 

 

[Ross]

22-07-2008

 

Thanks Ian for the well wishes.

 

Went round to Warren's for a Sonex roll over this morning. Warren is surging along with his Sonex build and needs to have better access to the cabin area so we rolled it over on a set of trestles which gives him better access to the cabin and firewall area. He has plenty to do on the build yet but is also waiting on some "firewall forward" pre-fabricated parts from the USA.

 

Most of the cabin forward construction is temporarily held together with clecoes as is the rest of the turtle-back and needs to have many more parts fitted and drilled for riveting. Most of that involves pilot holes and could possibly involve dimpling or countersinking the rivet holes as well. So there will be a new set of holes to de-bur, material to prime and then to reassemble, rivet and bolt together.

 

One of the pics shows a right angle drive Warren was in the middle of constructing when I arrived this morning to facilitate the drilling of about half a dozen holes in difficult access areas near the front of the aircraft.

 

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[Ross]

23-07-2008

 

Decided to tidy up the seat pan felt and had just marked out the base of the first one when a visitor arrived. So just applied adhesive to first area and the felt and sat it in place.

 

I don't think the visitor was very impressed with the Jabiru seat until he saw the sheep skin padded seat covers which fit over the seat pan and the back rest. He then remarked that he might try and do something similar for his a/c.

 

The loose piece of felt sitting on top will be glued to the bare space under it which is the cover over the pilot side tool box.

 

Normally I wash the brush out in water but it does not get it completely clean so tried acetone which does not dissolve the sticky residue.

 

Tried "Turps"! Worked well and can be used on the felt with a rag to remove excess outside the target area.

 

[ATTACH]6030.vB[/ATTACH]

 

 

 

[Ross]

24-07-2008

 

Applied felt to toolbox lid for pilot side.

 

Applied felt to port side seat pan after measuring making out and cutting out a piece of felt.

 

Used spring clamps to hold felt in place.

 

Still to do felt on header tank cover

 

Header tank has packing around it to prevent fibreglass to fibreglass contact in the header tank space including the lid.

 

[ATTACH]6033.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6034.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6035.vB[/ATTACH]

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

25-07-2008

 

Measured felt & cut to suit header tank cover for starboard side.

 

Applied adhesive to cover & felt after marking and cutting felt to suit cover holes for screws into the six retained nuts in the seat pan.

 

Weighted and clamped felt to header tank cover for starboard side.

 

Removed clamps from toolbox lid and fitted lid to top of toolbox under pilot seat pan.

 

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[Ross]

26-07-2009

 

Removed clamps from header tank cover and sat the header cover over the tank in the starboard seat pan.

 

Masked the two fuselage windows using 3Mtape and brown paper.

 

Masked the windscreen using masking tape and brown paper.

 

[ATTACH]6061.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6062.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6063.vB[/ATTACH]

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

29-07-2008

 

Joan came into the garage to tell me that a hot air baloon was approaching our place. So I thought I'll just finish what I was doing on the J160 then go out and get a photo or two.

 

When I got outside it was fast disappearing towards the ground to the East of town.

 

So these pics are taken near sunset with a hand held Panasonic DMC-FZ5 with the zoom set to 12X . The camera has an anti shake feature but I also had my elbows sitting on a fence post with the camera strap around my neck.

 

[ATTACH]6064.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6065.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6066.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6067.vB[/ATTACH]

 

All the baloon pics were cropped.

 

**********************************

 

Cut a hole in the fuselage again in the same place as done previously when the rudder cable was fitted.

 

Fed a piece of wire through the hole into and along the rudder cable space until the wire reached the exit hole for the rudder cable just forward of the rudder cable anchor position.

 

Cut a piece of 3/4" hose about 600 mm long and drill a small hole into the hose at the 300 mm position.

 

Bent the end of the wire into a slight small hook and inserted it into the hole in the hose.

 

Pushed the hose over the rudder cable and then pushed it into the rudder cable space near the rudder cable anchor.

 

At the other end of the wire pulled the hose through until it reached the hole where it exits the space into the fuselage behind the luggage space.

 

Continued to pull the wire & hose while pushing the leading edge of the hose down through the access hole into the fuselage.

 

Continue until half the hose is into the fuselage space. Removed the wire from the hose with a pair of long nosed pliers.

 

Mixed up some microballs and epoxy into a stiff mixture and used a stick to feed it into the rudder cable space around the position of the hose exit into the fuselage.

 

[ATTACH]6068.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6069.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6070.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6071.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6072.vB[/ATTACH]

 

The short piece of wire on the end of the rudder cable will allow the cable to be pushed into the rudder cable space while painting takes place and then retrieved when finished.

 

The hose will protect the cable from damage chafing on the fuselage fibreglass and make it easier to insert a new cable when it is due to be replaced.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

2-08-2008

 

Covered over access hole for rudder cable feed on top of fuselage.

 

Used emery cloth mounted on angle grinder to remove paint and gel coat in the area of the proposed join/cover.

 

Mixed a batch of epoxy.

 

Cleaned proposed join area with acetone then primed with epoxy.

 

Cut out fibre glass cloth patches to cover access hole.

 

Applied 1st layer of cloth epoxy and press down on already applied epoxy. Applied epoxy to wet up whole cloth.

 

Applied 2nd fibre glass layer and applied epoxy to wet it up.

 

Squashed down edges to get a neat join.

 

As the middle kept sagging ran a piece of SS lock wire along the apex of the cover/join to support the top.

 

[ATTACH]6097.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6098.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6099.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6100.vB[/ATTACH]

 

Will trim the edges later and fill the screw holes and remove the wire.

 

Will also need to fill over the joint using micro-ball/epoxy mix to get a smooth surface.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

09-08-2008

 

Smooth up top of fuselage in tail region to repair rudder access hole and rear rudder cable exit hole.

 

Removed SS screws scraped & sanded area around repairs.

 

File out fill in round holes at rear for rudder cable exit & file plugs to suit.

 

Clean up with Acetone.

 

Prepare chipped area in RH wing leading edge that had been previously filled some time ago to conform to profile by removing any loose material and cleaning up with Acetone.

 

It was later dropped and the epoxy-microball fill chipped. I offered the dropee a ride on the test flight but he declined.

 

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It will need another layer of microball fill at least to smooth up the areas.

 

I had to change the pics drastically to cut down the flare from the bright white areas of the epoxy-microball fill especially after looking at the previous post again.

 

21:00 Hrs Still getting some plastic flow on curved fill areas so kneaded it back in place as required for second time at 21:00 hrs. If the fill was made drier it would not have good adhesion to the underlying surface.

 

As well as that it is a pretty cool night so turned up about another 2 Kw in the garage and opened the door into the house so the reverse cycle can contribute some heat as well. Another hour will probably see the fill not moving any more.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

01-09-2008

 

Used orbital sander with #400grit sandpaper to rub down the fill areas on the cable guide access holes and the wing fill for the damaged fill on the wing tip as done on the 9-08-2008.

 

After the rough fill was initially rubbed back with the orbital sander it was then sprayed lightly with black satin paint in a pressure pak.

 

It was then rubbed back some more by hand and using the orbital sander using the paint to expose high spots and low spots.

 

I only did one side of the top of the cable guide access fill as I had the spray can too close when applying the first lot and it also possibly appears to be a bit rougher than the other side. I will have another go at it tomorrow.

 

At this stage most of the photographed areas can probably be spot spray painted with the two part bogging undercoat and repeatedly rubbed back until it presents a smooth base for the final coat.

 

The pics show most of the fill surfaces after orbital sanding, then after a light coat of black paint, then after combinations of orbital sanding and hand sanding.

 

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The waste had to be rubbed off with a rag periodically as it was confusing the issue getting ground into non sprayed areas. Maybe I should have used the air hose instead of the rag.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

2-09-2008

 

Continued to rub down cable access cover area on pilot side.

 

When enough done decided to remove spot spray from pressure pak can in low areas with a pocket knife. Found two of those spots were actually cavities in the gel coat with a paint like coat of gel coat across the top. Excavated them out and scored inside the cavity with the pocket knife to provide a key for eventual filling with epoxy micro-ball fill.

 

Rubbed and scraped some more then cleaned up both sides using Acetone on a thick cotton rag to get the last of the pressure pak paint off.

 

Rubbing back any more without applying more epoxy fill or paint undercoat would result in damaging the fibreglass.

 

Despite a couple of relatively deep low points decided both sides will fill OK with the two part bogging undercoat applied with the low pressure spray gun as some areas around the vertical stabiliser to fuselage join will require probably at least three or four layers of undercoat.

 

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The last pic is of the passenger side after cleaning up with acetone.

 

Could still partly fill those small depressions before applying the paint especially the two cavities in the gel coat.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

3-09-2008

 

Changed my mind and decided to give the cable guide access patch another layer of epoxied microball fill.

 

Also filled around the edges of the strut fairings on ech wing.

 

All areas were prepared by sanding & cleaning up with acetone on a rage.

 

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Will have to keep looking at it because in the big fills the fill will keep flowing out until it has set.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

4-09-2008

 

Used a rotary random orbital sander with #240 grit self adhesive sandpaper with vent holes. The the sander is fitted with an exhaust bag to "collect" the dust.

 

Wore a face mask as essential equipment during any sanding.

 

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The bogging undercoat will be essential to finish off these areas around the tail group and the strut fairings on the underside of the wings.

 

Any further machine sanding at this stage will be too deep on the existing fill.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

6-09-2008

 

There is a gap between the rudder and the vertical stabiliser when full left rudder is deployed.

 

Prepared a strip of fibreglass to attach to RHS of AFT end of vertical stabiliser on opposite side of rudder hinges to close this gap when left rudder is fully deployed.

 

[ATTACH]6406.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6407.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6408.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6409.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6410.vB[/ATTACH]

 

The area under the strip will be stripped back to the fibreglass and the strip will be shaved down towards the leading edge and will be bent out slightly on its trailing edge after it is epoxied in place to clear the rudder when full right rudder is deployed.

 

[ATTACH]6411.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6412.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6413.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6414.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6415.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6416.vB[/ATTACH]

 

The last two pics show the gap with full left rudder before fitting the extra strip.

 

The rudder gap was aggravated by the necessity to move the rudder aft so that full right rudder could be deployed as the RHS of the leading edge of the rudder was being limited by the depth of the vertical stabiliser channel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

07-09-2008

 

Removed the strip over the gap by removing the SS self tappers used to hold it in place and prepared the surface for epoxy by removing the paint and the gel coat using an orbital sander with #240 grit sand paper.

 

Also removed the red seal cloth from back of fibre-glass cover strip material before sanding back the leading edge of it back to a thin edge to match up with vertical stabiliser surface.

 

Then cleaned up the surfaces with ethanol on a cotton rag.

 

Made up a batch of epoxy flock to attach strip to vertical stabiliser.

 

Applied flock to vertical stabiliser join area as well as the strip.

 

Used SS self tappers to hold strip in place and inserted additional SS self tappers to hold the strip firmly in place.

 

[ATTACH]6420.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6421.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6422.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6423.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6424.vB[/ATTACH]

 

Wiped off excess flock with rag soaked in ethanol.

 

Had to use heater to keep the temperature up for curing the epoxy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

08-09-2008

 

Fitted rudder to check rudder clearance against new gap cover strip.

 

Applied hot air from hot air gun to cover strip as it was moved over against the rudder stop at "full right rudder" position.

 

Once that was achieved with rudder touching the cover strip - tied the rudder with lock wire against the stop.

 

[ATTACH]6432.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6433.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6434.vB[/ATTACH]

 

Applied more heat to the cover strip and inserted mixing sticks (paddle pop sticks) as spacers between the cover strip and the full right rudder position.

 

Allow the cover to cool and set in position with mixing sticks maintaining clearance.

 

Removed mixing stick spacers.

 

Rudder now will hold full right position using only a light rubber band to hold it against the stop.

 

Removed the SS self tappers.

 

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Cleaned up around the self tapper holes using orbital sander and then ethanol.

 

Mixed up micro-ball epoxy filler and filled self tapper holes and along leading edge and trailing edge of join of cover strip to vertical stabiliser.

 

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Allowed to cure with heater to keep the temp up. Winter is not quite over in our garage.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

09-09-2008

 

Scraped the the high spots off the micro-ball epoxy fill used on the rudder gap cover both on the starboard outside of the vertical stabiliser and on the inside of the channel at the aft end of the vertical stabiliser.

 

Then used the orbital sander on the cover strip and join area of the vertical stabiliser.

 

[ATTACH]6449.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6450.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6451.vB[/ATTACH]

 

The light rubber band will still hold the rudder against the stop. Because the rudder hinges are on the port side of the rudder and the mass balance weight on the top of the rudder, the rudder tends to sit at almost full left rudder when not connected to the rudder cable.

 

Epoxy Micro-ball fill is difficult to use on a vertical surface as it remains plastic for so long before curing in the cool temps we are experiencing in late afternoons and nights. If it is used very stiff there may not be enough epoxy available in the mix to give good bonding with the underlying surface.

 

So I will need to use the two part bogging undercoat to make a good base for the top coat in this area.

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

11-09-2008

 

Moved down to the other end of the A/C as the prop flange connection has been making me feel nervous.

 

Removed the spinner and the propeller.

 

Wrapped a cotton rag around the crankshaft just in front of the front crankshaft oil seal and soaked this rag with water to keep the heat from damaging the oil seal.

 

Applied some heat to the outside of the prop flange.

 

Then heated the cap screws from inside the front of the prop flange with the hot air gun until the cap screws could be loosened with a ratchet spanner plugged into the top of the cap screws.

 

Tried small increases in heat until the screws would come out to avoid using too much heat which might damage the front crankshaft oil seal.

 

Removed the prop flange which had 3/8" UNF x 3/4" long caps screws Loctited into the tapped crankshaft.

 

Measured the thickness of the prop flange where the cap screws go through it, the length of the screws, the thickness of the Bellville washer used on the screw, the amount of lost thread in the top of the tapped hole in the crankshaft and the lost thread on the end of the cap screws.

 

When you allow for loss of effective thread at the start of the tapped hole and on the end of the 3/4" long cap screw it is apparent that the amount of full engaged thread when using 3/4" long cap screws is marginally less than that set in the Service Bulletin JSB 022-1 dated 28th July 2008 for the "Propeller Flange Attachment". It quotes 9 mm or 0.354" of full thread engagement.

 

The flange including Bellville washer is about 8.3 mm thick.

 

Take that from a 18.7 mm long cap screw leaves 10.3 mm which looses about another 2 or 3 mm of effective thread putting it under the 9 mm set in the service bulletin

 

Ran a 3/8" UNF Bottom tap into all six tapped holes in the end of the crankshaft to clean out the Loctite 620 and then blew them out with an air hose.

 

The holes are one inch deep and a 3/8" x 1" long UNF cap screw can be screwed in until the thread stops it leaving about 3/32" clearance between the head and the crankshaft face.

 

The flange plus the Belville washer is about 8.3 mm or just over 5/16" thick so that if 1" long cap screws are used with a Bellville washer instead of 3/4" cap screws there should be about 7/32" clearance under the cap screws before they bottom in the threads in the tapped holes in the crankshaft.

 

Grinding off the slight taper on the end of the cap screw would probably not increase the clearance as that part of the cap screw can probably go slightly deeper than the end of the fully tapped thread because it is a smaller diameter than the root of the thread.

 

See the longer cap screws being tried out and measured for clearance in pics 2, 3, 4 and 5.

 

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So using 3/8" x 1" long UNF Cap screws should give a more secure attachment of the prop flange.

 

I will still apply Loctite 620 as per the Service Bulletin after cleaning out the Loctite 620 with Loctite 7471 activator (primer) on both the cap screws and the tapped holes in the crankshaft.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

13-09-208

 

Prop Flange Cap screws JSB 022-1

 

The tapped holes in the crankshaft were sprayed out with Loctite 7471 then cleaned out again with the 3/8" UNF hand bottom tap to the bottom of the threads.

 

The threads were then washed out again with Loctite 7471.

 

The six new 3/8" UNF x 1" long cap screws were cleaned with Loctite 7471 as were the faces of the crankshaft, the propeller flange and both sides of the Bellville washers.

 

After the cap screws and the holes had dried out the screws were assembled with the Bellville washers and some Loctite 620 (about a large match head size) applied inside the tapped holes and on the top of the thread of the cap screws.

 

The six cap screws and Bellville washers were inserted by hand using the socket set through the propeller flange into the crankshaft.

 

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Pic 1 shows the difference between the old and new set screws both with Bellville washers under the head with a piece of wood inside the flange to hold the screws up.

 

They were then tensioned immediately in stages through 20 lb.feet, 25 lb.feet and 30 lb.feet working in a diagnal pattern around the flange to prevent distortion of the flange. As my tension wrench is calibrated in Newton Metres I had to do the calculation for the conversion before starting the cap screw tensioning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

13-09-2008

 

Starter Motor Earth Cable JSL 005-1

 

The earth cable for the starter motor was removed from the ring gear end of the starter motor to the propeller end of the starter motor by using the starter motor through bolt as the earth connection to the cable.

 

The cap screw from through the engine backing plate was cleaned up and replaced back into the motor through the backing plate into the motor with a suitable washer and a small amount of Loctite 243.

 

The contact against the back of the starter motor was cleaned to make a good earth contact.

 

After being removed to attach the earth lead, a long through bolt was reinserted through the earth cable with a suitable washer and Loctite on the thread.

 

The cables were tied down again with zip ties.

 

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The new arrangement should result in less electrical resistance in the stater motor wiring circuitry.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

14-09-2008

 

Jabiru Engine Flywheel Attachment JSB 012-1

 

The engine I have is a 4 cylinder Jabiru 2200A model, serial #1906 with zero hours TTIS.

 

According to the service bullletin this motor should have and has mechanical tappets and should have and has upgraded Cap Screws from 1/4" UNF to 5/16" UNF holding the flywheel to the crankshaft with no dowels (which became standard from the factory a few editions later on together with hydraulic tappets).

 

According to Jabiru, this motor may remain in service until a major overhaul is due at 2,000 hrs TTIS at which time the motor is to be modified to to include dowels for securung the flywheel on the proviso that it is inspected now to make sure it has no brocken or loose cap screws, has 5/16" UNF cap screws in the flywheel, the tension is raised to 24 lb feet and a different application of Loctite is done on each cap screw.

 

I have also discovered today that later models now have a steel flywheel instead of the current one which looks like aluminium.

 

Disconnect the alternator wiring from the loom going to the firewall & rectifier.

 

Disconnect the ignition circuits from both coils as well as the HT leads to both distributors.

 

Snip off a number of cable ties to facilitate cable movement.

 

Disconnect the port upper engine mount to gain access to one of the alternator mounting bolts.

 

Removed the alternator by undoing the 4 attachment bolts that hold the star shaped alternator mounting plate & the stand offs which were bolted and located by roll pins into the engine backing plate behind the flywheel near each of the four bolts holding the mounting frame.

 

Replace the port side top engine mount so the engine mount does not get distorted.

 

The alternator has to be gently prized from its location using a piece of wood carefully so as not to distort or damage the altenator mounting frame.

 

Once the alternator has been extracted against the pull of the magnets and the friction of the locating roll pins, the six Cap Screws with Bellville washers holding the flywheel to the end of the crankshaft are exposed to view and prove to be correct as being 5/16" UNF for this particular engine serial number.

 

The tension needs to be checked at 24 lb. feet for 5/16" UNF cap screws but cannot be checked reliably because they are Loctited in place.

 

So for each cap screw, one at a time, the following proceedure was done:-

 

Each cap screw was heated for one minute with the hot air gun which was sufficient to be able to extract the capscrew without damage occuring.

 

Each cap screw was sprayed with Loctite 7471 as well as the corresponding tapped hole in the end of the crankshaft.

 

The thread of each cap screw was steel brushed to remove old loctite and then sprayed again.

 

The cap screw was run back into the tapped hole then removed and the hole blown out with compressed air and the cap screw cleaned again.

 

The cap screw then had Loctite 620 added to the tip of the screw and up near the shank.

 

The cap screw was reinserted & tensioned to 24 lb. feet.

 

Once each of the cap screws had been inserted, tensioned and marked with black textra they were all heated and checked for tension again at 24 lb. feet.

 

[ATTACH]6498.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6499.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6500.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6501.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6502.vB[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH]6503.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6504.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6505.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6506.vB[/ATTACH]

 

The original cap screws were all under tension with no brocken ones otherwise they would have all needed to be removed with the flywheel before inspection and replacing all the cap screws and possibly the flywheel as specified in the service bulletin.

 

Continued to-morrow after a few jobs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

15-09-2008

 

Jabiru Engine Flywheel Attachment JSB 012-1

 

Replaced the alternator stator back in place with the mounting plate stand-off roll pins lined up with the matching holes in the engine backing plate.

 

Then gently tapped the alternator mounting plate with a light soft hammer on each corner until it was seated on the engine backing plate with the alternator stator back inside it's ring and each roll pin in both of their matching holes.

 

Reinstalled the alternator mounting bolts with Loctite 620 on the threads after cleaning them with Loctite 7471 and tensioned them to the backing plate through the standoff brackets.

 

Reinstalled the port top engine mounting fittings and bolt after doing the stand-off bolts.

 

It was found that the port side ignition coil was just fouling one of the permanent magnets on the flywheel. It could be rotated but was just touching the magnet as they passed.

 

So in turn each pair of ignition coil mounting cap screws were loosened off to allow the coils to magnet gaps to be adjusted and set.

 

Because of the heavy magnetic pull of the magnets on the iron cores of the coils the non magnetic soft feeler gauge needs to be inserted in the required gap space before the coil is allowed to move towards the magnet.

 

A soft feeler gauge also allows the gauge to conform more closely to the curved space between the magnet and the ignition coil body.

 

As I only have one such gauge (two would be preferable) the end of the coil without a feeler gauge blade was only slackened enough so that it could rotate when the other end was adjusted.

 

So it took a couple of tries to get both ends of each coil gap to magnet within the allowable range from 0.010" to 0.012" or metric 0.25 mm to 0.30 mm gap.

 

[ATTACH]6512.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6513.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6514.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6515.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6516.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6517.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6518.vB[/ATTACH]

 

Once the gaps were set the cap screws were tightened up, checked again then marked with "Torque Seal" to make any looseness obvious on visual inspection.

 

All the disconnected leads were reconnected to the distributors, wiring harness and the removed cable Zip ties replaced to secure the wiring.

 

To make it easier to rotate the engine and check the gaps and make sure there was no fouling of the magnets or coils a spark plug was removed from each cylinder which was replaced at the end of the adjustments.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

17-09-2008

 

A little job today - the previously installed headphone hanger on the roof of the cabin in the luggage area was attached with two self tappers and these were were pulling out.

 

So replaced them with a couple of "Hollw Wall Anchors"

 

[ATTACH]6529.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6530.vB[/ATTACH]

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

20-08-2008

 

Used the "W" terminal on the oil pressure sensor to run a lead back to a new LED on the panel.

 

Installed the new LED below the other LEDs on the panel and ran a lead back to the "instrument bus" to supply the power when it is operational.

 

Once it was wired up, tested it as follows.

 

On turning on the main switch the low pressure LED turned on.

 

On operating the starter motor, once the oil pressure came up on the pressure gauge the LED light went out.

 

[ATTACH]6540.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]6541.vB[/ATTACH]

 

Once the starter motor was released and the pressure dropped the warning "LED" was illuminated again until the main switch was turned off.:thumb_up: