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danny_galaga

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Everything posted by danny_galaga

  1. Thats a different sort of list. What I was talking about was service parts for my plane, and sourcing them from elsewhere than Rotax for the engine or the kit manufacturer for the rest. What got me going was the radiator hoses. And in the end I ended up ditching the hoses from the kit, even before they were used and sourced better fitting ones from Gates etc. I also know what make and model my radiators are now too so I can probably source them in Australia instead of getting them sent from overseas.
  2. Good to know. The VDO sensor I mentioned I think is different to your combo. That means you would have to replace the lot. Sometimes you just want a drop in replacement part. The ro TAX might be too steep, but hunting around gets you the exact part at a fraction of the price of the 'genuine' part. As you say, not as cheap as your set, but there's no mucking around either. But now you have that VDO part number, you could indeed find a bulk source and sell those alongside the sets. It's for head and cylinder sensors, they are the same. In my case, I have one unused head sensor so I'm just swapping my faulty oil sensor with that one.
  3. The other I found out about recently for 9x series are the cylinder temp and oil temp sensors. I haven't tried this but since the OEM and the alternative are VDO this should be correct. Cut and paste from elsewhere, links may or may not be viable: Water/oil temp sensor: The VDO part number you would be looking for that should replace the Rotax part is 323-801-010-001D, stamped 801/10/1 by VDO, 300F or 150C max.. Here are the two non-ebay webshops that I found to source these with the one in the NL to be too expensive on shipping for me to consider it. http://www.etbinstruments.com/ https://vdo-webshop.nl/en/
  4. Agreed. The things I'm looking at are mostly alternatives to Rotax. Trying to avoid the ro TAX 😄
  5. For Rotax 9x https://www.vectriqparts.com.au/product/rotax-voltage-regulator-carr5115/
  6. Coulda sworn I put this here, but seems I haven't. This is an improved regulator, it actually probably costs more than the 'original' but it runs cooler, has less wiring and doesn't need a capacitor 😎 CARR5115 from vectriqparts.com.au
  7. Yes, I probably did already 😂 Just realised I have it in my own notes: CARR5115 from vectriqparts.com.au
  8. Good to know, but the one aftermarket thing I spent more on than the 'original' is the regulator. I bought a Dutch one, name eludes me right now. They've been making regulators and rectifiers to replace hard to find motorcycle parts for years. And Rotax. And of course to replace any crappy Italian electronics 😄 Upshot is mine doesn't need a capacitor (either better design or a capacitor built in or I don't know what) and has one less wire. It just has AC in and DC out, and a warning light. Simples ☺️
  9. I do like this sort of idea, and I think oldkorelah did something like that. It's the lightest way to go since a light aluminium tube extension to a switch close to the battery is going to be lighter than copper cable. I thought of doing something like that with my little motorcycle battery isolator. But I have to weigh getting the plane actually flying against experimenting with homemade gadgets. I've been building this too long.
  10. There will be an extra 550mm cable..it's still less cable overall than the kits master solenoid idea. And WAY less than some aircraft where they've had to put the Battery rearwards for C of G purposes 🙂
  11. A bit of an update. I had put a little motorcycle battery isolator in, but of course that's not easy to reach. Fine if I'm on the ground. But if I happened to need to use it in flight, I'd probably 'John Denver ' myself. So I picked up a panel mounted isolator from Whitworth marine. Much the same as the ones with the red plastic key, but these look tidier. Might as well have form AND function if it's available. Installed it where my USB outlet was, which I moved over. Looks tidy there and it's just about the shortest amount of extra cable at the location 🙂
  12. The hour meter is built in to the tacho. The tacho is working fine, thus the earth is fine. Perfectly logical 🙂 On top of that, when the revs are above 1800, the hour meter switches to revs. It does this faultlessly. I have a reply from aviasport. I'll see where we go from there, but I just bought an $8 hour meter from eBay as recommended by a friend. He fits them to all motorbikes he's owned. The oldest hour meter is 6 years now and still fine.
  13. There is Enroute Flight Navigation, which is free but it may not have all the bells and whistles. Someone here put me on to it. I downloaded just to test out my skyecho. But if you don't want to give money to 'The Man' check it out. You have nothing to lose.
  14. Would that be because they might bounce around a lot, causing wear and tear? Sounds like a pain, lock, taxi, get ground crew to unlock, line up.
  15. Cool..I've been in one, but hadn't noticed the slats. I kinda assumed the tiger was the first for some reason. Just looked it up. I reckon it's VH-UMK . Until this discussion I had no idea it was all wood. I was already a bit nervous about wooden wings, let alone the whole thing 😄 Still, was a great experience. My partner was in the Tiger Moth. The same owner, Bill also has a Tiger Moth and a Leopard Moth, which apparently is exceedingly rare. I don't believe the Leopard Moth is flying though... https://abpic.co.uk/pictures/registration/VH-UMK If you look closely in these pics, there seems to be something under the top wings leading edge. Now I know, I would say that's part of the automatic retract mechanism for the slats?
  16. I agree, but it's easy to place a conditional order. If nothing is ever approved, you haven't paid for anything.
  17. No, this one is digital. The tacho has an analog face (but no doubt converting a digital signal, same as my altimeter) and a little LCD readout at the bottom. When the engine is running it just shows the RPM in digital form as well as the analog face. But if the engine isn't running, it shows as an hour meter. If I'm stuck with this tacho (as in can't get it replaced under warranty) I will get a little standalone Hobbs or BDO hour meter.
  18. Tacho is working, so earth is fine. I have a feeling there is some sort of fault internally, but thought I'd check here in case someone knew something I didn't about it's operation. I will contact the manufacturer, hopefully they come to the party. That's a problem with builds isn't it? By the time you get to test stuff, most of the stuff is out of warranty 😄
  19. Just imagine all the racket if a number of them start whizzing around.
  20. I have this tacho in my plane. Rotax 912 specific. http://www.aviasport.com/Pagina_348.aspx I must have run it close to an hour by now on the ground. The hour meter is supposed to measure time when the engine is over 1800 rpm. Because I haven't fine tuned the throttle assemblies yet most of the time it's never below 1800 rpm. But it seems to have stopped at 00:22. (I just realised that's in minutes, not 1/10 hours) . The tacho seems to read rpm reliably. Anyone have one of these tachos? Am I having a brain fart and not doing something correctly? I didn't think there was anything to do 🤔
  21. It's going to be liquid hydrogen, that means it'll be heavier than air.
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