MajorTom

Thanks Bob, haven't found that part. Must be in the box of an other chapter. I spend some time locking for part ST002 and ST010.... Good I made a check list and knew they must be some where. Finaly after the 3. run I found them in the one box for chapter 14... puh...

Thanks Richard, so our parts are almost the same, except for the wing tips. After prepping the wing ribs and smaler parts for some chapters, there is no more hesitating..... I just finished my work bench. Its 4.20 m x 1.10 m and 0,75 cm high.

That would have been my first thougt too, but it is even worse! He built a plane... Sounds nice, but I have no time. I'm still busy and satisfied building a Savannah. If I would suround me with tons of shiny planes and equipment and promisses I would go shopping-sick... Just counted my hours .... 160 so far

O.K. Your are a very kind person. I hope to meet you some time... I just had someone on my blog page, who wrote me how stupid I am to deburr all the parts. They would be hidden deep in the plane. No need to deburr all the many holes, because they would be rivited anyway.... Not building a moon lander .... just an UL Plane ...

That is my favorite brand too. They also had a very nice instruction book, I learned from in times whitout easy access to information on the internet.

Weight of my cowling is 3,80kg for both parts. That's o.k. for a part of that size. The quality is very poor. And Richard, I'm far away from putting my cowling on. I spent the last 6 hours prepearing the parts for chapter 13.... and I far from finished... It is very convinient to have someone building the same chapter at the same time and helping each other.

Thanks Kyle for the vocabulary.... it is always hard for me to put my thaughts into english words. Hi Richard, my lazy savannah builder from france... ;-) Good to hear from you.....You should be one week ahead of me.... ;-) Perhaps in some time, I can fly over in my brand new Savannah and give you a hand. I've never been to france. hihi The tail tips are not to hard to do. The fin tip is a little bit to wide. I did it negativ in the plastic part and put it into a vise while curing. One layer is absolutly not enough!!! This needs to be calculated accuratly. I used 3 layers of 163g matt on the tips plus some reenforcements on the stabilizer tips aft edge.... Carbon and Kevlar are fine materials but I don't thing of them as an improuvement in a cowling. Material mixes are difficult to calculate. Kevlar is not stronger than glass but can absorb much more energy. Carbon is very stiff but cracks without warning. I would not do a complete cowling in carbon. What is a ball joint? Can you put your glassfiber parts on a scale?

sorry again for being so unpreszise... excuse my english There are different types of fabric.... Usualy used in planes is something like this Buy Glass fabric 163 g/m² (Aero, finish FK 144, plain) 100 cm online ✓ | R&G Faserverbundwerkstoffe GmbH - Composite Technology To save a handfull of dollars they use something like this Buy Chopped strand mat 450 g/m², 125 cm, yarn titer 15 tex online ✓ | R&G Faserverbundwerkstoffe GmbH - Composite Technology The result is a much heavier part with no additional strenght.... kind of 70's style

Today I'm a little suprised in a negativ way.... I asked ICP, if they would replace the left wing tip. The part was damaged, due to early taking it out of the mould. They send me a new part. Unfortunately this one is even more bent and twisted than the first one. Also it is much heavier!!! The weight is 698g compared to 458g. The glass fiber is different. It is the cheapest stuff aviable. Solution is, I will rather repair the first wing tip and send back the heavy one. NO BIG DEAL, BUT my cowling is made of the same glas fiber. Does that mean, it is also 50% heavier than needed??? What are your cowlings are made of? And has somebody have weighed his cowling???

Thanks for the insight. That is something, I did not think about.

Just fineshed my flaps. Had to pull out the rivets on the upper, aft ribs.... and rerivet with spacers betwen rib and skin. Also deriveted the solid rivets on 2 already finished flaps and replaced with AN470 rivets. Now I'm satisfied with the result. Next step is to redo the solid rivets on the elevator and rudder.

Yes, it is by design. The pliers work parallel and are quite precise. The main problem with the kit rivets is, that they are a little to thin and thereby very loose in the hole. Second problem is there sperical head instead of the doomed head of the original AN470. Third point is there lenght, its on the longer side of the rule. All in all, they are very wobbly and gave me a hard time. .... No time to built these days... I have theoretical flight school every day and pactical hours til sunset as well...

Yes... they have no other choise

Hey Bob, thanks for your reply. Surely I have read your different post about riveting a couple of times. One of the best part was: "dump the supplied solid rivets and by the real AN470 AD-3-3 But I must appologise once more for beeing unprizise and missleading. The "promissing rivets" you refer to in your first reply, are my old attempts with the supplied rivets. These are the rivets I will not use! The picture of them was for camparrison. Now everyting works great. Look at picture 4... this my shop head...picture 5 showes the AN470 head. My rivet set has domed heads on both sides.

Finaly got all together to do / redo my solid riveting. - bought the right rivets AN470 AD-3-3 and the right die - found this nice pliers Knipex 86 03 300 - drilled a hole 4,75mm right throu it - made a die for the shop head side result is promissing, easy to operate with one hand, more than enough power for those small rivets.... finished rivet is straigt and nice, what a difference to my first 200 botchy attempts

Thanks Richard, but as was pointed out the savannah is no show plane. I must be carefull not to get lost in unimportant details and overdo it. Yesterday I spend 5 hours with elelevator tips and not even finished them. The work went very well, the trick with the alu stripes is absolutly great! Thanks Bob and Kyle and .... to share your knowlage!!! But still, time runs fast, when you are in your workshop....

Finished the fin and rudder tips. No problems riviting the fiber glass. Next step will be the tips for stabilizer and elevator.... this time alu stripes and rivnuts...

Thank's Hopfuly now I understand right.

Oh... I see. You mean, take care if the material mix is o.k. in this place.... like don't mix this two metals on a boat... I just checked, the Savannah has fiberglass wingtips.

Thanks Kyle, that lookes nice. Guess I will install the supplied sticks. Don't think my inspector will tollerate such nice fancy sticks. But it can't hurt install the small modification in the basis to make the stick removable. And Bob, I'm sorry when I offended you. Questioning and requestioning is in my nature. It don't means something negativ. English is just a hobby of mine. I often miss the words in betwen the sentences and the fine nuances of speach. I value you opinion and your theads are my first place to look at, when I start a new chapter.

What about the little stiffeners in the stabilizer Bob? ;-) I would not do anything to the static... honestly...I am no Enginer either. The rib and skin stays the same. Its just the glassfiber that gets rivetet at the same time. Thanks for your thoughts...anytime!!! Have a good night. ..Tom

Shame on me, but I am. Just this is the question. On the other hand side, on the flapperon tips you rivet together plastic and alu. Glasfiber is much stiffer. But the last word has my inspector anyway !!!

Just finished my first flapperon tip... nice And worked on the tip of the rudder. The plan was to use stripes, as advised here. But when I see the part, I don't like to cut it. It is so nice and smooth. What about placing the tip over the rudderskin and riviting throu glasfiber, alloy-skin and rib in one step. Thereby saving all extra stripes and rivets... Any objections?

Oh shit... what is wrong with electric flaps??? O.K. without having much expirience, the sticks seemed short to me....Do you mean the whole stick? Funny... this website changes the "Oh s h i t" into Oh *** ....

A friend of mine does professional car wrapping. So the idea is not to paint the bird, but to wrap it. Does anybody know, if it is o.k. to have the shop head of the solid rivets a little domed. Would be better ( smoother) for the wrapping vinyl film. I would apriciate every link to helpful articles! Thanks