MajorTom
-
Posts
289 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Downloads
Blogs
Events
Store
Aircraft
Resources
Tutorials
Articles
Classifieds
Movies
Books
Community Map
Quizzes
Videos Directory
Everything posted by MajorTom
-
Well, thanks. That is indeed very encouraging! I just recieved my solid rivets AN470 AD-3-3.... the real ones, not the "fake-rivets" supplied with the kit. Now it is clear, how big the difference is. They are thicker in diameter with a different head. No wonder it is so difficult to get the supplied rivets in straight. Also got some a3 countersunk rivets now. And made a bunch of stripes for varius purposes.
-
Just have redone one flapperon. Put a strip alu betwen skin and rib. The doubler is bent over, so the first hole after the longeron gets extra 0,8mm and the following two get 0,4mm. Result is better, but far from satisfiying.
-
Nice, something very different. I wonder what size tires that are.
-
Hi Dan, it is something like this. There are many nice types and brands. You might want to round the tip a little, so you don't scratch the skin. Then just cut of the rivet directly on the skin. The shophead gets of easily and 70% of the rivets fall / jump out instantly. Xuron 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutter: Wire Cutters: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
-
Yesterday I deriveted a flapperon. Very easy with this electronics pliers... The aft ribs look pulled upward near the longeron. Seems something, with the thickness of the longeron, put in betwen could help. I will try...
-
No seriously... gratulation... Engine instalation is the part that worries me most. Second is paint... third is the inspector
-
Wow... since when is Rotax building steemengines?
-
No, I disagree. This two rivets have a nice (smart) offset to each other. Maybe this part has changed??? My problem with the upper skin seems to be just optics. Maybe I will try some scrap aluminium as a doubler for the ribs. I will let you know. How are you doing Richard?
-
Thanks again for your Help. I'm sure the strongness of my riveting results would be o.k. like you all suggest. But I'm also affraid I might fail in the inspection. So I ordered the right rivets AN470 AD-3-3 an a propper die. I'm still not satisfied with the upper, aft skin on the flapperons. There is a dent in the place where the first rivetafter the longeron is in the rib. The outline of the rib just don't takes the thickness off the longeron into account, like the ribs of e.g. the rudder does. How did you deal with this? When I see Bobs flapperons, the look nice!!!
-
That's confusing.... The manual says the rivets in the kit are AN470 AD3-3 ?! But when I see your pictures, the thiny little buggers I have got look quite different .... small round head like half of a globe .... pictures of real AN470 show a head which is more flat... ????
-
Thanks again Bob. Thats what I did. But on the better half of the 2. and 3. and 4. I just left the clecos in until I have a solution. There is just one shop in germany I know of, who sells Squeezers. The have a couple of weeks delivery time. Quite frustrating.
-
I have problems with the solid riveting. The shop head is often out of the middle. The rivets seem so long and loose in the holes. When I squeeze they go sideways. My pliers are machine crafted and plane / parallel. The other problem is the skin on the upper side. Seems the longeron could have been bent a little more. The skin is being pulled down by the ribs. Also the nose half-ribs are realy tight. On the second aileron I did some bending and everything is nice. BUT what to do with the first one??? Redo it? Bending the longeron a little throught the skin?
-
Thinking about rivnuts.... When I attach the tips on elevator and so on, I plan to use aluminium stripes like suggested by Kyle and others. Then I would like to use rivnuts. I ordered some allready. I got very nice, high quality M4 aluminium rivnuts. And then realized, all other in the kit are steel or stainless steel!? Can I use them? Can I use them together with stainless steel skrews?
-
Sure, the parts are not to big. And I'm a RC-Model builder like you. And when I remember right, so is Kyle and who knows who else.... We all start small and grow bigger eventually.
-
Made a real mess this weekend. All sticky and lots of glass fiber snowballs... But the result is o.k. .... the weight of the epoxi + glass parts is a little more than half of the originals. The thickness is 0,75 mm which will make good fit, when I use the alternative method of attaching the tips.
-
I dont understand. Which one? And what is simple? There is so much preparing to do befor the first use of the paintgun. That I guess is hardest. I am absolut beginner in paint. When all is nicly primed, most work is done. At least in my thaughts.... Dont know if this is realistic...
-
Hey Richard, how are you coming along? I had a discussion about a mould at both sides of the pliers, but decided against it. Next step are still smaller parts because I want to stay at long as possible in my nice, compfy and warm workshop in the cellar. So I would do the ailerons and flapps. And there are still the tips to do. Maybe I try to reproduce some copies of the plastic ones this weekend.
-
Finished the elevator yesterday. All went well. Also did the first solid rivets. As suggested I used a modified pliers. Friend of my mom did the mould on one plier-side with a radius moulding cutter. The pliers are easy to operate with one hand and have enough power for the tiny rivets. Only thing is that the shop head tends to wander a little out of the middle. I dont know how much is acceptable???
-
I imagine my savannah in 2 or 3 greys... maybe a light grey and a warm anthracite or dove grey.... A comic whould be nice too. Thinking of one plane chasing the other swinnging a flogger..... Whould call it "my shades of grey" ....
-
Did number 4. and installed two extra rivets at the end of SD 025 where the stress is supposed to be greatest.
-
This little stiffners are just 66 gramms together. One is used to attach the trim servo cable.
-
Well, the stabiliser is finished. It took more effort than expected. There where the non fitting holes on all ribs where the skins overlap. This single hole on the wrong side which gave me trouble and the first cable to install. Finallay I took the nose skin off again to put some primer on the skins, where they mate.
-
That is my opinion too. Maybe dimpling instead of coutersinking whould be better. Richard, you have your rivet squeeser. Why not buying a dimpling set? Schould fit into an envelope and no costoms...
-
Yes in theory.... all my little alu pieces came off, when I tried to drill them. The 5 minute epoxi did not glue to well, despite all preping. Now I get it. (Had to use a dictionary) When you have access, you cut the backside ( the knobby part) of the rivet. Will try next time. Richard just told me, I have my middle plastic piece on the wrong side of the longeron. Seem I start practacing right away.... Although I can't se how this matters!??? And one more thing. Did anybody else had this missing hole to assemble the rib?
-
I'm in good hope..... It's two holes per rib ( upper + lower skin ) I glue a small peace of scrap alu unter the wrong holes to give the rivets a firm grip. I hope that is the right idea!? And drilling out rivets is unexpected easy. From what I have seen on videos, you have to get the steel out first. That needs some force and a hammer. But when I tried to do without,it worked well. The head came off easy and the rivet could be pull out from behind.
