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Lake Eyre trip


wanabigaplane

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Not as planned

 

The roughly formed plan was to see Lake Eyre, going via the Menindee Lakes, Broken Hill, Leigh Creek, Marree.

 

At Leigh Creek I hoped to meet pilots of local aerial tours and find out from them where to go and what to see.

 

At Menindee I planned to call in on some work mates and maybe stay overnight. At Marree I hoped to find a land based tour to the lakes edge, and maybe up to the punt across the Cooper on the Birdsville track. I had been told I could land at the Dig Tree, and Cameron’s Corner. I wanted to fly along the Rabbit Proof fence, stop over at Innamincka, and fly over the Yellow Bus. I wanted to exit the area via the north and stopover in Boonah, and also meet a friend at the Warwick fly in.

 

It went nothing like that.

 

 

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Menindee lakes

 

[ATTACH]11907.vB[/ATTACH]Menindee.

 

Great weather from Tumut to Menindee. Some guys at the airfield at Hay heard me coming in, and stayed on to provide fuel when I landed. I know my motor is loud, but…

 

At Menindee I rang my workmates, and found they had gone home for the weekend, so instead of exploring the town I flew around the perimeter of the lake, noting the water flow into the lake, spotting where my workmates were staying, then onto Broken Hill. Not a bad trip for the first day.

 

208618135_Menindeelakes.thumb.JPG.29b296567128a90dc920562a7c95e081.JPG

 

 

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At Broken Hill

 

At Broken Hill.[ATTACH]11908.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]11909.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]11910.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]11911.vB[/ATTACH]

 

I had planned to stopover with the Broken Hill Recreational Aircraft Club, about 9NM north of BH, but when I rang on the Sunday afternoon, they said no one was there, and it was a long way to town, and no one to provide fuel. So Broken Hill airfield proper it was. An ASIC card is required airside at BH, but I was never challenged. The gate was unlocked the first day, then on the second day a chain and padlock was installed on the gate. After that, the chain and padlock hung loose on the fence, the lock unclasped, permanently set at the opening code.

 

I was held up a few days before leaving Tumut, fixing my radio. It seemed OK at home, but once I had started flying I found it was unusually faint in reception, and reportedly faint in transmission. Too faint to mix it with the expected busy airspace around Lake Eyre. There was nothing for it but to order a new intercom, find lodgings, hire a car, and turn tourist till it arrived.

 

The guys at the Broken Hill aero club were great. Also in town I met aviators Allen Buckley and John White who were flying around Australia in Allan’s RV. The RV had exhaust problems and we ended up crisscrossing paths and dining out together over the next few days.

 

The intercom arrived quick smart, but the adapter I ordered did not match my headset. I was finding my way around Broken Hill pretty well by now. I purchased a multimeter and soldering iron from in town, and spent a day making a direct connection. It didn’t work – good reception, but transmission was RF only. Apparently my headset had a dynamic microphone, and the intercom required an electret microphone. There was nothing for it but to order a new headset. And wait. More touring. Went out to Silverton where Mad Max 4 was in preparation. Production had been put off till February because the countryside was too green!

 

Ah, ready at last. But the weather! 20 knots, gusting 35 from the North was predicted, with 30mm rain predicted locally, and 50mm rain predicted in Birdsville! After six days in BH I had seen all I wanted to see.

 

I even drove out nearly to the Broken Hill Recreational Aircraft Club field, but the last part of the road was wet clay/mud – not navigable even by four wheel drive.

 

Aghast!! The Birdsville races were cancelled. I spent the morning at the aero club watching escapees from Birdsville landing in strong winds on the closed dirt cross strip. Most people getting out of the aircraft were in bare feet with mud up to their knees!

 

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Leigh Creek/Marree

 

[ATTACH]11912.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]11913.vB[/ATTACH]Leigh Creek / Marree

 

The weather was not too bad the following day. It became cloudier as the flight went on, and there came the inevitable build up over the Flinders Ranges where I had to alternate between trying to go under the clouds, then over, then turning for my alternate field, and then finding a way under. I didn’t really enjoy the majestic beauty of the ranges everyone talks about in this situation.

 

At Leigh Creek there was only one broken down aircraft. No fuel. No tourists. Just the wind, and a surprisingly green desert.

 

I followed the highway up to Marree. The road was cut by water in a number of places, and I did not see a single vehicle on it. At Marree there were only four aircraft tied down and deserted – a departing pilot gave me a lift into town. There were a just few trapped tourists in town. No ground based tours were operating – all the roads were closed, and the tourists I was hoping to share a trip to the lake’s edge or up to the punt couldn’t get in. Worse still, the roadhouse airfields on the Birdsville track, and the small local airfields at resorts and the Kalamurina and Cowarie strips were all closed. Innamincka and Arkaroola were closed too.

 

The pilot dropped me at the roadhouse so I could organize getting fuel. I was told that if I wanted less than 100 litres, there was a $50 callout fee! At Marree the 3G network was down. I couldn’t access the internet, or phone. How used one becomes to these facilities! The pilots however were on a local network, and downloaded the Internet Briefing Service for me.

 

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57394632_Marree2.thumb.jpg.346706f096521c0e18fffaf718c07958.jpg

 

 

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Lake Eyre

 

[ATTACH]11914.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]11915.vB[/ATTACH]Lake Eyre

 

The roadhouse operator came looking for me in the morning to give me a lift out to the airfield. Another aircraft had called in for fuel, and I could fill up without paying the callout fee.

 

I was glad to get out of there. Great weather. A few wisps of cloud, and still air. I sat at 3000 ft, and cruised up over lake Eyre. There was water as far the eye could see. Between the islands and multiple channels it was hard to discern exactly where the Cooper flowed into Lake Eyre. I saw some wildlife, but not the great masses one hears about. I was told that because of the rain in the north, a lot of the birds had flown up there, and in reality you had to know where to look to find the mass bird populations around the lake. And I did not have the fuel to go around looking if I wanted to make it to Birdsville. All the same, it was a great experience.

 

I flew East along the Cooper to where it cut the Birdsville track, and the punt had been reactivated for the first time in 15 years to ferry vehicles across. From there I followed the Birdsville track past all the destinations I could not land at, right up to Birdsville. I did not see a vehicle moving on the track at all. The thermal activity grew stronger during the day, and I was soon at 5000 ft.

 

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1166439896_LakeEyre2.thumb.JPG.2eee3ea672114e951cc648f02c62286f.JPG

 

 

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Birdsville

 

[ATTACH]11916.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]11917.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]11918.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]11919.vB[/ATTACH]Birdsville

 

Well the races had been cancelled. The mass exodus of aircraft had already occurred, and camping facilities under the wing with it. There were only ten aircraft left. Hundreds of four wheel drive and coach line tourists had been stranded for four days and all the roads were firmly closed. The only Birdsville pub was at full swill, and the ground was covered with discarded beer cans. It seemed be accepted practice to just throw empty cans on the ground. Rowdy groups were playing cricket outside the pub. Tour bus passengers were having a race hauling their busses by rope along the street. You could hear the yells of a mob playing two–up down by the river. RPT were arriving occasionally for the many people that had decided to fly out, and also to bring in more beer.

 

The only accommodation I could find was a dry section of road in the local caravan park. Avgas was $2.60 a litre. I had a neat little fold up aluminium trolley which I found very useful in this situation. As I trundled my camping gear to the campsite, quite a few people stopped me in the street, and asked me how I got into Birdsville – was one of the roads open?

 

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The rest

 

The rest

 

For the next two days I had a bit of a headwind, but in two days the aircraft was tied down at Boonah where my brother picked me up for a stay in Brisbane. During this time I visited Heck field at Jacobs Well by car. As I arrived I saw Allen Buckley (who I had met at Broken Hill) had just landed from a local flight. “want to come up for a quick flight?” he said. We then took a flight around Jacobs Well and did a few aerobatics for good measure. Thanks, Allan.

 

A nice High weather pattern had settled over the area, and the Warwick fly in on Saturday was a great day.

 

The good weather persisted on the Sunday and I was able to make it back home despite a buildup of cloud at the Tumut end of the flight.

 

Jack.keen.gif.9802fd8e381488e125cd8e26767cabb8.gifkeen.gif.7777ed0d05dcd20861d93166f822038e.gif

 

 

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A bit more

 

Hey Spin, gees, you got in quick. Just let me finish!

 

[ATTACH]11920.vB[/ATTACH]The punt at the Cooper Creek / Birdsville Track crossing.

 

Yes, time to spare, go by air - tell that to the hundreds of tourists stranded at Birdsville without the races, and all those stranded on the impassable roads in the area.

 

I was the envy of them all.

 

Jack.keen.gif.9802fd8e381488e125cd8e26767cabb8.gifkeen.gif.7777ed0d05dcd20861d93166f822038e.gif

 

925090718_Punt@Cooper.thumb.JPG.2a1be776babf2b35b69e6ce188064c56.JPG

 

 

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Haha, sorry I jumped in half way wanna, ditto what Blackrod said though, stories like this are a big part of my reason for starting to fly again - we might bleat about CASA etc but we really are fortunate in the opportunities we do have to fly.011_clap.gif.c796ec930025ef6b94efb6b089d30b16.gif

 

By the way, I recognised the alu trolley in one of your photos. I bought one a few years ago to carry stuff to my boat which lives in a marina - fantastic invention, it now lives permanently in my car and gets inspanned for all sorts, including lugging the esky and camping chairs a few blocks at Riverfire recently.

 

 

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RR, Bunnings have them in two sizes from time to time. Mine has been great and probably exceeds MAUW on a regular basis. About the only thing to watch is the handle, being alloy and extendable, it is a slight weak point and won't stand being used as a lever eg to tilt a big awkward load up.

 

 

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Great right up Jack, well done. You have me fired up now.

 

We have 2 maybe 3 Jabs leaving Wangaratta on the 8th for Flinders Ranges, Lake Eyre and maybe Coober Pedy and other stops for 4 days.

 

Others welcome

 

Terry

 

 

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I went to Lake Eyre last year and this. Looks like next could also be possible for water. This is unfortunate as especially the William Creek Hotel is becomming so used to making money hand over fist that they have forgotten that they are in a SERVICE INDUSTRY and that the long term business health requires some service and manners to go with the prices charged. I know they managed to put of all eight aircraft loads of people in our party this year. I personnally will no stay there again, and will not land if there is any other option.

 

 

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At William Creek I had the thinnest steak sandwich ever. The 'steak' would have been about 3mm thick. Must have been sliced in a bacon slicer.....

 

But it is a sad fact that so many of the outback roadhouses have been bought up by merciless quick buck artists. Those businesses are real goldmines now, what with the vast amount of road traffic these days. They know that most customers are just passing thro one time, and no local competition, so they don't care about reputation or repeat business.

 

One exception is Mungerannie on the Birdsville Track - warm welcome, excellent food, and helpful service. But the airstrip is not theirs, and is now closed to visiting aircraft......

 

 

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  • 2 years later...

Need some "OUTBACK" info.

 

We're returning from Vic back to SE QLD via the red centre. Because we are not 100% sure the departure day from W'bool we are not booking ahead but at this stage we are planning to be departing Monday the 11th. One of the reasons we're not too concerned about booking ahead, is we will have our camping gear with us. Robyn (the wife) is the adventurous type so she is just as happy camping as taking accommodation. But her sister ( who has never been camping and cannot believe people want to sleep in the dirt. YUCK!!!!! ) cannot believe I would let Robyn sleep in a tent out whoop whoop. I told her Robyn is too big for a dingo to drag off but it's not the dingo's she is concerned about. Has she got a point???

 

We're looking at staying in accommodation if it is available and if we don't have to re-mortgage the house to do so. Our overnight stops are planed to be; Arkaroola, Coober Pedy (underground if we can), Curtin Springs (near Uluru), William Creek and then somewhere between there and home if we need to. Are there any of these places you would recommend not camping at? And advise us to book ahead?

 

Places we plan to get fuel and places we plan to drop into for a rest and top up the tanks; Renmark, Arkaroola, Cooper Pedy, Ayers Rock, Oodnadatta, William Creek, Birdsville and where ever else we stop on our way home. Before I ring and arrange fuel, is there any of these you don't recommend and do you recommend an alternative?

 

Thanks

 

 

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Need some "OUTBACK" info.We're returning from Vic back to SE QLD via the red centre.

 

Our overnight stops are planed to be; Arkaroola, Coober Pedy (underground if we can), Curtin Springs (near Uluru), William Creek and then somewhere between there and home if we need to. Are there any of these places you would recommend not camping at? And advise us to book ahead?

 

Places we plan to get fuel and places we plan to drop into for a rest and top up the tanks; Renmark, Arkaroola, Cooper Pedy, Ayers Rock, Oodnadatta, William Creek, Birdsville and where ever else we stop on our way home. Before I ring and arrange fuel, is there any of these you don't recommend and do you recommend an alternative?

Arkaroola - Excellent for everything! All fuels. Simple donga accommodation for $15 last time I was there.

 

Coober Pedy - A long way from town, probably no taxi service. Underground hotel should pick up from airfield.

 

Curtin springs - Free camping but about 2km walk. Could walk in and probably get a lift out to bring in camping gear.... Good reasonable price meals.

 

Google will tell you the prices of accommodation most places.

 

All those fuel stops OK. Maybe call-out fee at Coober Peddy and Oodnadatta....

 

Have a great flight!

 

JG

 

 

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