Garry Morgan

Gussets to an alloy frame would be much the same as the cheetah,not hard .Thinking of cutting all the tubes to length. and no. them to a drawing. the control system is so simple and easy to make, keeps cost down. no push pull cables. The marco looks good , i would look at the diamond but a cantilever wing adds cost and work . Im looking at buildingthe wing from the kit in a day, less ailerons which would be another day, the gusset fuse 3 days to build.

Yes and we had my engineer working for us and no one ask us. just a letter to go LSA and we asked our selves how did this happen. And when we did all the testing and paper work again, with our engineer present. When the CASA del. turned up the first thing he said was my plane hit a ferris wheel and then spend the weekend condemning every thing we had done ,he would not even except the jab motor . Which is one out of two best on the market. As with every one else bar two had the 24 rego taken away .destroyed aussie manufacturing in this country. and now there is no confidence in the market when the GFC is no us as well. My glider is sitting now for a year and may never fly in this country. SAAA has banded me from advisting where 75% of our work come from .

WW1 aircraft didn't handle X winds very well, so a cub type will be better for most of us.

We can not do this on the forum. You need to ring me 0418253466 or mornings 02 65539920 or E mail me [email protected]

Drawings at present are a cub type ,high wing, all alloy tube riveted. A very simple control system, and quick to make. A 18hp to 40hp V twin suppiled with a prop wheels and ASI .covering and dope. $8,500 kit . 18 days to build 150hrs complete as new, second hand ( test flown) 15 k I think most of us now want something that looks like a plane and not a rag bag. Talking about cheap flying I did 5 hrs in my motor glider Saturday for $2.50 that's 50 cents an hr. I can afford this.

What I did was a piece of 25-32th sheet 1200 x 300mm curved the front and back and fixed it to the leg. the rear is important then the front for drag. Also the fairing form the spat to the leg I had on the joey I am going to remold for the Cheetah /Sierra aircraft. This should hit the 150kts at s/l full power. There are many other mods that can be dont but just the simple ones with out making it to hard. Many of which would be under the cowl, which may surprise some. The fairings will be available very soon .

You never can please everone, but feed back is interesting to see trends. Yesterday I did 5 hrs for a cost of $2.50 for a 2,500'launch now thats cheap flying and fun every one wants. well i do any way . when i retire i wont have the money to fly a 172.

Yesterday I had a good day 5 hrs flying for $2.50 10min of motor to 2500'launch a top height of 9000'and covered 240km . I would have done a lot more but my didn't want me to go and of course not out land. I found some more of the out landing strips to look at just went up and down the valley. I am looking forward to getting my new 18m ship in the air to cover some big distances.

I have been wondering why my red and silver sierra was at least 10kts faster. well I got a phone call from a owner who put a fairing on the under carriage who is getting another 10kts, then the penny dropped the silver sierra had the u/c fairing on it ( 148kts). I will be putting one on when we get back to the workshop.

All our aircraft will go into a trailor, a hangar is a big cost and this is where we are trying to get away from. Motors yes all the v twins are heavy but it is cost. I just got a hirth f33 28hp it has all the options and $6500.00 landed. Fabric V alloy its your choice, but a slightly longer nose for the weight. How simple or how much work does one want to put into a small aircraft. The more work put in the nicer the aircraft, and higher the performance. From a thruster / to a cub/ or like the RF4 motor glider. or all. I have just done a plan for a daimond for a guy with a longer fuse and a 11-13m wing as a motor glider he will put in a VW. It is like a RF4 but simple and a metal wing. As a mater of interest the super daimond wing spar is ok up to 13m, that makes the daimond about a 15G aircraft, and in the sierra at 600kg its 8G. Simple is not always light, but it can be cheaper to get into the air. Interested to here if you would build or like to fly away, and at what cost, also would you register it or just go and fly as we did in the 70-80s.

The 18hp v twin flyies a quicky at 90kts and a single seat goes very well like a 40hp rotax. I expect a 40hp v twin will fly a two seater, or a three seater ground effect machine. A two seat cub type aircraft, all alloy tube rivited together, and fabric covered could be a very cheap aircraft. You could put in a VW also

A 40hp subaru motor v twin. Is the biggest one anyone knows of. If we could get a good cheap motor a two seater could be done. A twin engine aircraft would be good but for the legal side. There any many manfactures of the v twin motors that are cost effect and have good products. just most of them are low hp. There is some good info coming out of this thread.

Our super diamond is simple ,and a brigs and stratton motor would fly it. But it can be made cheaper by making a more basic design, a plan build to flying for about 7k and about 200hrs to get into the air. De rig at the end of the day and take it home. Last weekend I did 8.5 hrs flying for about $15 this is the sort of flying that is fun.and every one can afford.

Noise is not a problem, I am not the first in aust there was a big one in Cains and another being built in vic. as a boat rego there are no problems, and legal. The 18m single seat motor glider is under construction.

It has be put to me to build a cheap (7-9K_ aircraft this would be with a motor and prop, single seat. A simple cheap and easy, to but together A four stroke motor with an electric start. I would like to here what you think, as many out there I here are wanting to get away from where we are going. Another project that I have been working on is a ground effect machine, that will also fly. A 4 seater twin motors that can operate on a boat licence as a ground effect it will fly at about 3m A flying one will require a different licence depending on what you want to do with it . A single motor can be used, but a twin motor will be much cheaper, A four stroke motor with electric start. . There are so many uses a ground effect machine can be used for, and a much quicker form of transport. They have been around for many years, but build mainly by boat builders ( heavy) when you build it as an aircraft it has a lot more advantages. Feed back wanted.

I think most of the problems are that the motors are running to hot , If Jabiru can address the over heating problems things will inprove a lot. and this is in the instlation . and not a problem with the motor .

The camit motor is not a new design, it is a proven motor with the up grades Jabiru wouldn't make. and Camit know how to make it better, no motor is 100% fool proff. But it is one of the best motors you can buy .Dont knock Australian products when the others are no better. the motor is my first choice, after over 10 years of using them with out any major problems . I just dont see why so many people bag i good product. I get so many people telling me how bad they are, and they dont even own one. just know it all, and know nothing about the motors real value. How about some real support for our products in Aussie, I dont here anyone putting crap on some not so good products coming into the country, and paying double the money for them. Get real.

The Cheyenne is sitting on the ground, waiting on a permit to fly. The paper work re doing things to try to please people. Back in may it was inspected last when placards where inspected and photos where presented , now to put 2 into one, weight and balance was given to the nsw guy ,and 2 months ago resent and only now do i have a signed one I also are trying to get my own w b ticket to save drama next time. I used the SAAA test flying guide for doing my test flying list this was knocked back, so I have now wiped out 75% of my programme, where they would have a good amount of info on how it flies now it will have very little. Risk assments I had trouble getting it to casa way untill i got some other assments .it takes time as i have other matters to attend to. all the paper work is now being prepared to send in. I am being told about the mud on my name, and it sticks, many times and the very restricted way of getting on with it doesent help at all , and that is all im saying about that. And the restricted flying on what i can do also is making things harded.

Many people in clubs think a motor on board is not a real glider, and they dont like them, but at the end of the day we will have to go this way, how about the glider club like a power aircraft ,you ring up make a booking ( 2pm) turn up fly and off . A one man opp with a self launcher, may be one that can tow up a glider as well. times have changed life style is a lot different to what it was 40 years ago, and we have to change with it. My new self launch will be set up for a one man rig ,so i can go mid week and to other centers to fly.

Our last culb long weekend a 3 day flying, I flew over 12 hrs in my SF27m self launcher one flight was 210km and it cost less than $20.00 , I have started building a 18m self launch which will be of same cost to fly about 3 ltrs a flight. I have been looking at doing a design for a cheap 11-13m self launch with a motor that at $1 a launch now thats cheap flying.

Most of the problems are they just running to hot, I have used my own set up for the last 10 years. I looked at the instal manual and put it in the bin. If you follow the manual your motor will run hot .You have to get the air running smoothly through the system. The piece of fibreglass sitting in front of the cylinder blocking the air from getting to the bottom of the cylinder is just one of the problems, this will brake the air and cause turbulence, this will slow the air flow. We make our own front piece of duct and ramp the air into the duct. the smother the air flow the more air you will get over the motor.We put the oil cooler at the bottom of the fire wall. You still need a 2-3"hole at the top of the sump, this makes 20 deg. difference. The oil cooler robes air that could be used to go over the cylinder heads . now you have lots of air going much faster, lots more cooling. The carb air intack we use our own cobra head with a air straightener to even up the cylinder temperature, and you can move the rear of the straightneer to change left and right bank of cyl temp. also lowering the bottom of the cowl makes more suction. so there you have it its not hard. Bingle book on fire wall forward is a good book on how to do this also. no one using our set up has had an engine problem so far .

I have been using jab motors now for 10 years and I don't have any conplants nor have i had any failers. I didn't follow the installation manual as i feel it will make your motor run hot. we use our own set up and the motors run very cool. For me they are the best motor around and you can afford the parts if needed. All motors have there own problems,

*0 hp jab 125kts full power sea lecel 110 cruise, 3.3 jab seems to varie 137-150kts depending on how the aircraft is set up . sea level 125kts cruise s/l and 137kts tas at 6k

A 912s in a sierra will cruise 120kts at sea level.

Great news, scare the crap out of you when they tell news like that. Enjoy life.