skippydiesel

At "home" I have three Star Pickets driven, as far as I could, into the ground. You may need to borrow/purchase a post driver (I call it a "donger") and the Star Pickets Place your aircraft where you intend to park it - mark the points where you will drive the pickets in. Remove aircraft to do the driving. Drive the pickets, at an angle away from (not straight down as in fencing) the aircraft tie down location. This is the same concept as pegging a tent . The tail picket is left as is, with the two wing pickets reduced (cut off) to easily clear the underside of the wings. Smooth the cut off edges, they are razor sharp & will do a lot more than bark your shin, if you inadvertently make contact. I go to the next level and put a plastic high viz cap on each picket. The tail picket is perhaps .5m behind the tail ( you may go further back for your nose wheel aircraft/tail in air). The two wing pickets are placed, so that the tie down straps are in front of the wing and at about 45 degrees out from the wing tie down. The concept is to remove all slack (without undue tension) on all three straps. I use cam buckle load rated straps, with metal hooks at each end, purchased from Bunnings Aerospace, to do the tying down bit. You may find that the hole in the star picket will have to be enlarged to accommodate the hook. After tensioning down the strap, I use the surplus strap to go round both ends of the hook eye and tie off, as added security A D shackle or two may help with the tail tie down. I carry a separate lightweight kit for temporary tying down, when on an away trip.

A very nice & well appointed Zephyr has just come on the market at an extraordinarily reasonable $65K. https://aviationclassifieds.com.au/listing/7357 These are truly wonderful aircraft to fly.

Just received my Issue 110 SP magazine - after a quick brows - binned it! This magazine is supposed to be a promotional window for RAA. This gloss & glitter publication, is so lacking in substance, it would not induce me to join (if I wasn't already in) The lack of factual information is astonishing. By way of example - check out the article on fuel, "The Lifeblood of flight" page 89. According to Mr Heath " MOGAS..... is essentially high-grade car fuel that meets aviation standards" news to me! He goes on to state "The petrol at most service stations contains ethanol, ........" really?? The BS continues unabated op page 91 - read on, if you can avoid choking and be astonished.

Always a bit suspicious about asking for a friend - just joking. My guess is that much will depend on the type of hearing loss. If it's just a volume thing, it's likly that the headset can be turned up to make good any loss of hearing. My David Clark headset has left/right volume control, so I tend to turn my transponder volume to full and then reduce that to what I find comfortable on the headset.

Hi Danny, Would be great if one of the electronics guru's would participate because I am just winging it - the capacitor may have an electronic noise suppression function (I don't know) but its main job is to smooth/take any"spikes" out of the charging system.

I stand to be corrected -My knowledge of electronics is virtually zero but I seem to recall that this is how the Rotax regulator started out only to retrospectively advise the installation of a capacitor after multiple failures?

Smidgion short of 200 views. The interests is there but no one willing to have a small punt. Commooooon!, even the unused batteries should be worth a few $$, for anyone who has broken off their transponder antenna, my hard to break ones must have possibilities (even as spares) and what of the VSI ? working when removed. The control column accessory mount (think Garmin) can hold (with some Velcro) almost any small Nav device including your phone.😈

Thanks Blue, I think at least two of the transceivers work but have deliberately avoided making any claims about condition. There are some pretty handy electronics enthusiasts on this Forum - that they might be intersted in the electronic stuff and the home builders in the rest. REMINDER!!! - YOU CAN MAKE AN OFFER, given the level of enthusiasm, first offer likly to get the lot.😈

Interest continues (views) but no takers - perhaps you are put off by the lack of a price???????😈

The RV4 pilot who recommended this unit, seemed to think it met all of the standards for this sort of device.

Tempting Danny. Will hold out a little longer in the hope of finding a "stiff" pipe. Thanks

Awesome teamwork. That first officer can fly with me an day.😈

My local Holden dealership tormented me (knowing my passion for almost all things diesel) with the suggestion that Holden was considering fitting their 6 speed (manual) ute with a 3L turbo diesel - would have bought one for sure.😈

Seems that 61.6 ID rolling is considered to be more of a hobby than a commercial service. I can purchase a 610mm "slip roller" for $473. Tad expensive for a one off. Anyone out there got one I can borrow/use/pay you to do the job.

The duct (part of an exhaust extraction system) need to be reasonably air tight or wont work. Overlap might do the trick, clamps add significantly to weight but a lot cheaper than welder time.

Dont be sorry, any excuse for a chat😈

Could be an ATEC Faeta NG. Check out the lower stall , same cruise of the high HS of the original Faeta

Had quite a few views - So far no responder's. You can put your own value/price on the stiff you know😈

Good thought Thruster. Tig weld would be the way to go. Any suggestions as to who might provide such a service?

Thanks Roger - Most of this pipe has the wrong ID but as I said I am talking to a custom intercooler manufacturer who may be able to assist me.

There's a thought - Existing tube solid - Will dwell on this idea. Thanks

Thanks Turbo, The original pipe (that I damaged) is metal - I think aluminium alloy but may be something else. Came with the partially completed project, so I assume sourced in AU.

Thanks Thruster, This is an part of an exhaust extractor system. Dont think SCAT would tolerate the heat for very long.

Hi All, I need to replace a hot air duct. The critical dimensions are ID & length. ID 61.6 mm x Length 550 mm Fitting over existing structures/supports is the reason for the ID (could probably get away with a little bigger, but smaller would be problematic). Original tube had an aproximately 1 mm wall thickness. I think OD is going to be around 2.5 in, in the Devil's measurement system that most suppliers seem to use. Note: measuring device (& operator) not as precise as might be hoped. Have tried all the aircraft suppliers of tube, that come up on Google - no joy. Tried a few commercial aluminium suppliers - min wall thickness 2 -3 mm in this size pipe, making ID way to small . Currently corresponding with a custom intercooler builder but not holding out much hope. Suggestions welcome

Friction modifiers have been around as long as man has wanted to make it easier to move one surface against another -be warned, even those that work, may NOT BE COST EFFECTIVE.