Blueadventures

The cylinder fins look turned 90 degrees to the air flow and looks like the coolant jacket extends under the head onto the upper area of the cylinder. very different to the lower hp version I've seen reviews on. Thanks for post.

If question is about my posts reference to weight it was referring to the additional material at the forward end on the case (crankcase) that would allow for more distance between the two bearing there to add better support and that would mean the prop adaptor flange and its spacing to be shortened as explained by Paul. I reckon you would enjoy a day or two in Pauls workshop; I know I would. Cheers.

Definitely a good development; however will add a little weight which may be offset by the shorter less mass of the prop flange / spacer.

The early billet one Paul is working on in his shop has a cracked crank and the recall is on the newer ones which have a forged crankshaft.

Not sure, but is is connected to were billet now forged?

Its close; received message that will be approved to fly early next week. We've had short weeks and school holidays over here so expected possible delay. Didn't matter much two weeks ago as weather was horrible, great now. I'll post when I have paperwork back. Thanks for asking, Cheers.

The P3 does not have a mess inside when used just a thin dried coating. (Skippy message not for your viewing; so don't get up tight about the fact that it is not my tube / tyre I'm talking about; I don't want you concerned that its not personal experience / ownership of the tubes😇.) The tyres I'm talking about are not ply rated but advertised as like 4ply in strength. Thread depth is 3mm. The Sava type on Wagga Bike and Tyres webb site. For sure a heaver thicker 6 ply tyre would be better. Yes the 3 corners get us for sure. I carry two spare tubes for this reason to fit a new tube, need to ensure no thorn or thorns in tyre before fitting.

I'll let Ben know you are inquiring in case he does not see your question.

Skip; I've shared what I know, Your detail is piss poor as you don't bother to share the brand you used with success. You often do this when you push for detail off myself and others, you need to lift your game or exit. As for your comments running down my information you can keep your opinion to yourself. For others I can assure them that the information is as good as top shelf RD testing by an approved authority, and I'll back in the effectiveness of the Motul P3 product for flat tubed tyres.

I have detailed my knowledge of the P3 product in the earlier post and in the other thread. It would be helpful to all if you could update your post with the product brand detail of what you used. You have omitted this information.

It contains a flammable propellant; there is a safety data sheet for it. It works very well I'm told by a reliable person who has used two cans on at least two occasions as he fly's a Nynja at an airfield that has thorns in the grass.

Wal about $450-

I am set up to fix flat tyres when flying solo; so have a jack (0.5kg by Peter Anson Engineering), two bottles of repair foam for tubed tyres (0.3kg each), two tubes, tube repair kit, spare valves and removal tool and the necessary tools to remove wheel and disassemble the wheel; and a pump. Mine is split rims and easy to get apart. I've been involved with Savannah tyre changes and re tubing and there are a problem to get tyre bead off the rim, real hard and near impossible. I say be able to do solo as you need to get wheel off the ground and a rock under the leg if you don't have a jack or a support. The P3 is great for a quick fix, get you going and about $26 a can.

What head sets do you use and will you try Ian's to compare with yours.

Yep, at Oshkosh last year. I'm basic with a 3 person tent.