Kenlsa

RF, our entire fleet has been on 98 for a while now and we are in the final stages of installing a bowser. Result, no loss of compression due to stuck rings or valve face deposits. The camera does not lie, you can eat your dinner off the piston crowns. I have been on 98 most of the time and saving $12 an hour, that will be $18-20 in your 230. Ken

Same as the Skyraider. Read that an aborted approach to a carrier deck and if full go around power was applied without care, the resultant torque could get it inverted with zero space to correct. Ken

Had a mate that used to restore vintage cars. First thing to do was remove the motor, empty any oil that may be in there, then place the whole thing into a drum with a mix of fresh water and molasses, generally 10/1 but can go up to 20/1. Leave for up to 6 months if very corroded. Remove —-and all the rust was gone. Nuts screw right off with no stripped parts. done it myself on any iron or steel, even complete exhaust systems that would normally be thrown away. Everything comes up looking new. Took about 2 weeks. trick then is to immediately spray with light oil coz you

Spacesailor , it’s coz I have both types and only want to operate under one system. As my Jab is 19 reg it can only stay in RAoz, but my Colt can switch. spent quite some time on email and phone to Jared and Darren just before Christmas and 760 is the number one push for RAoz in the new year. I am working thru a rebuild of the Colt at the moment delaying the final weight I will pursue as late as I can (413kg if aiming for LSA). So will save about 15-18k if we have 760 by the time my final decision is made. Ken

Running your hands thru the wheat field? All that was missing was some reference to “saving humanity “ and the like. Ken

Tigershark, how is your covering going. Have you selected a system yet? Ken

Further to the above, I did try increasing the length of the plenum at the rear.......VERY bad. It increased the rear head temps by 15deg, Spoke to Ian Bent about it and as it followed the 90degree bend at the rear it increased the drag slowing the air too much, making a stagnant air pocket. Ken

Glen, this is what I did after a heap of testing. I ensured a gentle slope for the air transition instead of a “step” Not shown are the gull wings underneath on the cylinders. Note the rubber grommet— this was required to reduce the standard factory hole size (19mm-3/4in) to slightly increase the amount of air staying in the plenum Overall no lowering of the temps on the front heads but from memory a drop of 15 deg on the rear heads. better temps on climb as well, [email protected] to 1500ft, then cruise climb at 250 to 300 fpm @ 2800

The only time you have too much excess power is...er.....never

2 or 4a if you hang onto it you have saved plenty of cash. 4b E24 results in an orphan that will be hard to sell. We are converting or club ROKO to E24 as it is close to 15yrs but only 900 hrs. As a club we can absorb the potential loss coz being made of tin we will crash it (again, first was a heavy landing, big bucks to repair!) but write it off next time.(?) As E24 we can not train in it, only make it available to club members with their full certificate. This seems to be the best way out for us. Ken

RF, I was wondering about the far cooler temps with the G4 may have caused a problem but have not followed it up. With mogas, ensure that there aren’t any 90degree bends in any fuel line, or elbow, where you need a change of direction of the line. Under certain conditions (extreme heat) it MAY lead to a low pressure zone on the inside of the elbow causing a potential bubble at that point. The Jab has gentle bends so is not a problem. This advice is mentioned on STCs for certified planes converting to mogas, for example my Colt. Any 90 deg elbows have to be replace

RF, latest leak down on the 100 hour engine is 78 and 79 /80 and these are cold readings! leak downs on the avgas went from 50 to 60 hot. So lap the valves and back to high 70’s. Hence our move to Mogas . Detonation......starting to be an urban myth. Maybe before modern fuels but never heard of it with 95/98. It’s a different world to 30 years ago. The factory says it’s good.......so it’s good. As with anything, ensure the fire/heat sleeves are good. I have never talked to anybody who had detonation. Starting to get tired of hearing it quite frankly. Ken

Bruce, the Gen 4 that has been on 98 since new has now had its 100 service. Camera inspection shows no/zero/zilch residue on piston or chamber. L2 took a photo and the rest of the fleet is now on 98 by now afaik. Note——-the new fuel filter had plenty of muck inside and some was metal (magnetic test) we are loading from drums at the moment until a bowser goes in. Ken

RF, Yellow/whiteis result of avgas residue. All our club Jabs are on 98 now due to avgas residue forcing us to lap valve every 150 to 300 hours Wire brush it all off with a brass rotary brush on a drill- piston tops (you may scrape them with a small steel ruler to reach inside if the cylinder is still attached to the case) and combustion chamber- and the lower stems of the valves.( This will be very hard and may need machining -see below) if you see small grey spots on the valve and/or face -that is lead. use a factory go/no go gauge on the valve stem guides.

I’ve done a few......engine crane strap onto the prop flange the jack it up till the nose wheel just touches the ground. This will put a force onto the rubber mounts giving you plenty of room Ken