Timm427

Brett - thought the same thing. Also wondered where the tuned pipes bolt on with exhaust outlets seemingly pointing to the centre of the vee

Or even 35

I speak from limited experience only having flown high wing planes and only with wing mounted gauges. One of the planes uses simple clear level tubes mounted on an alloy block. As the Avgas is greyish in colour I find it sometimes hard to tell at a glance where the fuel level is The other plane uses wing mounted gauges white background and red hand. This is more definite, however the other problem I have with both planes is more to do with my eyes. I use reading glasses and when checking the fuel levels over my left shoulder I find it hard to quickly focus and have to stare at it for a while. Not really where I want to be looking when in the circuit. I would prefer fuel gauges near the engine gauges. Tim

Hey - I read Tony's Post and found it was a bit to chew, but there was some good stuff in there. I didn't see anywhere that said you had to read it or follow his suggestions. The problem is this - If you ridicule someone who feels they have something to contribute but you don't want to read it. Then chances are they'll think twice about sharing their information in the future. Information you may have found valuable. P.S. I think I just broke every one of Tony's guidelines.

Dimensions (metric) as Drawn Fuse. Length - 6380 Cockpit width 1075 (allowing for 20mm thick top rail on fuse side, should be about 1100 at shoulder) Cockpit height 1170 (Floor to canopy) Wing Airfoil - Not selected NACA 64-415? Wing Span - 8460 Root Chord - 1447 Tip Cord - 1095 Mean Chord - 1266 Wing Length (Root - Tip) 3776 Wing Area - 9.56 Aspect Ratio - 6.68 Tail Ground to tail height - 2222 Horizontal Stab. width - 3118 Weight to be calculated

Yenn My wish list cruise Max 120 knots Vne 140-150 Stall Vso 42-45 Vse1 47-49 Power 80H/P to 100H/P (80 preferred for endurance fuel consumption/weight) Gs +5 -3 (may have to reduce for weight) Controls Aileron Elevator Control -Dual Stick Brakes Stick mounted brake levers (toe brakes would be nice but add complexity and weight) Control System Push Pull control cables (as used in Jabiru) Electric Flaps Trims - (My concept {havn't seen B4}) Electric Trims on rudder elevator and aileron using "1/4 scale size" model servos mounted in the control surface, with optional interface for autopilot and levelers etc. Flap control - Electric Undercarrige - Rear individual legs clamped to steel subframe within the fuse. Nose - rubber dampend suspension direct connected to pedals Spar - Sonex/Soneri type spar system held within the fuse by a chrome molly subframe that supports the wing rear undercarriage and possibly forward bars that bolt through the firewall to the engine mount. (last item depends on weight and design issues) Dimensions to come

Yes Old Man Emu I plan on building a 1/4 scale flying model to test the basic aerodynamic layout and also get an idea of the "look" of the finished design. I know that it is not a terribly accurate way to test the final design because (as Yenn has pointed out) Reynolds numbers along with air density, weight(mass) and power do not scale accurately. However if the design has an inherent flaw hopefully it would start to show. Regards Tim

Gosk8ing As you mentioned I did consider redesigning to a straight wing but thought that would detract as you say from the performance and the look. I also assume that tapering the wing relieves some stress on the spar(s) at the wing root as the mean distance of lift along the length of the wing moves closer to the fuse i.e reduced leverage (I have just assumed this so far and not done any calcs) The other thing I have been investigating (and I have a mate who has done this) is to build a CNC Router for Making Form blocks and also machining some of the alloy parts (I know you can use woodworking tools on normal aluminium not sure about 2024 and 6061). This would mean that making the various form blocks for the different size ribs would be a matter of outputting the Autocad file to the CNC machine (there is a step in between but I won’t bore you with that) For making form blocks that taper in the Z direction I would CNC these at 5mm deep per pass, stepping out with each one to allow for the taper and clean the mould with a file (if you can picture that) Hopefully the leading edge can be accurately designed in cad as it is a consequence of the distance top of spar to bottom at the root and tip (apex of the curve at the ends of the leading edge, when drawn flat, being the forward most point of the leading edge) joind by straight lines along the wing length. Regards Tim

Thanks Gosk8ing and I didn't know any of that (except for rivet type) I take it all distances are measured from the centers and that spacing along the joint would be determined by the direction and magnitude of the maximum forces (+ safety factor) to be applied. I know it is possible to design the rivet layout based on gut feel and others examples, but it would be good to know the formula for calculating this as well. Regards Tim

David Thanks David, I have already considered building something like a Sonex and haven't ruled that out. And as mentioned in the forum talking about AeroVees, I still haven't ruled out building a STOL like a Savannah although I have that 100knot figure I would like to achieve. My real interest though is to design and build something myself and not really interested in scratch building an existing design. You are right in saying I don't have the expertise to commence this project hence the questions I was asking. Since posting this topic I have come across a designer by the name of Bill Whitney and have sought some advice there. In the meanwhile I am hoping to gain as much knowledge as possible, so if you have any expertise in A/C construction especially alloy's I'd love to hear it. Actually I think I already picked up something from you (ie only use rivets in shear applications for high stress / critical areas such as brackets supporting control surfaces) Regards Tim

I am looking at scratch building a plane that I designed. I originally designed it as a plastic composite but now considering a pop rivet alloy clad job. Can anyone tell me a good place to research alloy A/C building techniques and typical materials used etc. I started looking into aircraft alum alloys and I thought there would be a couple, but with the variations of coating and tempering there are dozens. See initial concept drawing below - some of the lines have since been straightened to allow for it to be built in sheet alloy and the wing position moved backwards

Wow coolmango $800 before your first flight. I have not long ago obtained My restricted certificate all up costs were around $2900:00 Tim

91.??? Knots ? You wish:big_grin:

Yeh vk3auu generally agree if you can do 115 Knots with an engine rated at 80 but only putting out 70H/P who cares. And if you fly a STOL you get to the point where it does't matter too much if you've got 80 or 100 H/P that fat wing and "only it's mother loves it fuse." are only going to do 91.735 Knots regardless of what you say. (Unless you want to climb out a bit quicker that is) No slander intended to STOL pilots :loopy:still considering building one of those Butt Ugly Sticks myself. Tim

I was reading through your previous posts and you were asking if anyone was building one in Australia or N/Z. By chance I spied a completed wood Cub fuse. frame in a builders shed yesterday, are you still chasing info for this project? Tim

Carry a GPS - DON'T CHEAT and certainly don't tell you instructor it's in your pocket.

Wow what a day! Sad to see it looking that way :black_eye:after spending many sittings admiring it on the magazine cover. Strong little plane though hey. I'm only new at this game but with a prop strike like that I would be pulling the engine down, removing the crankshaft and getting it tested. I'd also be inspecting the crank case around the bearing supports etc. Already heard to many stories where people have taken shortcuts with repairs and sometimes lived to regret it. Then, that's easy for me to say I'm not spending the cash to repair it. Tim

Bilby54 the price is USD6,495 + freight + (Approx. USD800 of extras if required) + You build it when it arrives. have a look at their site at http://www.aeroconversions.com/products/aerovee/index.html

Good luck with the installation Brett. Keep us posted on the AeroVee's performance. Tim

Look at the Sonex US$13.500 kit + shipping 80hp claimed 110knots 2 seats +4.4G. They also make a VW based 80Hp engine kit for US$6000-7000 dont know about power and reliability though. It is designed to be fitted with 2.2 & 3.3 Jabby donks as well.

Can anyone tell me if the AeroVee 80H/P U-Build engine, distributed by Sonex, is worth considering instead of the 2.2 Jabby for power and reliability (for the budget minded). In the same vein has anyone had any experience with their venturi-less carby that is claimed to eliminate carb ice, increase power and eliminate the need for a fuel pump.

Hi Blueshed - Love to be there but at this stage my instructor will only let me fly as far as the river to the South and the creek to the West. Still along way to walk from there. I reckon I'll be ready to go around July/August. How many do you get flying in? I was just looking at your strip on Google maps - I'd better start practicing crosswind landings. Regards Tim

What if the wheels were skis and the conveyer was ice:confused:

Gday Mathew Does the UL-D have even a lighter wing loading than the J170? what is it like to land when solo. Tim

This is the funniest argument ever - even funnier that myth busters had to disprove it. 1. Planes move by grabing air 2. Wheels spin as a result of that (infact the friction at the bearings in this scenario would be exactly the same as if you replaced the wheels with some that had half the circumference) (yes I know friction at the ground would increase with a smaller wheel I was just talking about the bearings) 3. If you want to stop a plane from moving forward you need to either A. Lock it to the ground with the brakes or teather it to the hanger or B. Sit it in a long tube and move air through the tube at the same relative speed that the Thrust less the drag would otherwise have propelled it forward. If you choose to use option B dont forget to take the wings off because it will still fly and hit the top of the tube (also narrower tubes are cheaper).