Paul davenport

Let try that again with the attachment

That’s a mighty fine set of numbers you have there. Yes I am aware that I can set it up a little differently. Went for a fly the other day and what was 127 is now 134, have not done a thing ,maybe ambient was slightly higher. Does yours vary from day to day.?

Oops also what main jet are you using

Yes mine works just as yours does and I just back off a bit , just out of interest what temp are you running cht egt in cruise and what does your egt get to on climb before you back off

I have a mushroom needle and matching needle jet and a 255 main jet. I have a 270 main jet to install next service, but for now I just want to fly it

Depressing isn’t it, when all your efforts are for naught. Hang in there when you find the answer it will have been staring at you . I need to put a larger main jet in to reduce wot egt, but for the moment I am one happy little veggie.

At last after much tweaking the results are as displayed

I think given that you are from the North American area they would be your best choice. If you would like to know what other things I did let me know

On my Subaru it was a very mild cam grind, it still idles smoothly , along with twin Bing carburettors and a larger exhaust I am very happy with its performance. The EA 81 prefers to pull rather than rev, max revs is around 4900 but I cruise at 4/4200 if I am in a hurry 4400 but more revs does not equate to more speed just higher fuel consumption. I have a 72 inch warp drive prop and an AMAX redrive at full noise my prop is doing less than 2500rpm. Apart from the extra weight I am very happy with the combination,good fuel consumption, economical parts and very easy to service

In Australia I used a firm called Crow Cams . Just google it and a few firms will show up. Just a tip as adjusting the cam timing is difficult get a few degrees advance ground into it, I suspect if you use a firm like RAM engines they will supply this as standard. Good luck and keep us informed of your success

Is the Hackman still available ?

Out last is just that, last longer than the body. Most people trade their cars long before the motor is any where near worn out ,the body’s on the other hand are starting to feel very tired . Unlike aero engines mantainence is usually poor for some time . But we drift again, where are the alternative auto engine pilots. First hand info

Right so the intent of this thread was to talk about the Viking engine (or any automotive engine) and who would fly behind one, not weight or reliability . So I ask the question who has flown behind the Viking and how impressed or not impressed were you? What was the performance, NO here say or second hand info just facts. My Subaru powered Avid is flying well no oil consumption, runs cool, has not needed any mantainence other than servicing, is economical and parts are still available at a reasonable cost. Yes I would fly behind a Honda Viking and I doubt (if my experience is any thing to go by) any mantainence of any major form would be needed for the life of the airframe . Auto engines out last the body of the car they are in .

Ford and GM are renown for their penny pinching antics, and to a lesser degree so are all other auto makers but the Japanese seem to pull back from this more so it than others building into their motors a reserve of strength and that is most likely the place where the weight is added

Spot on JJ these engines are beautifully made and to exacting tolerances, far better than aero engines which despite their built for purpose applications still leave a lot to be desired ,not that they are bad just they could be far better than they are but economy of scale and certification of new technology’s is costly so here we sit. There is light at the end of the tunnel the experimental engines with the ignition and fuel systems is a start

Written evidence no ,but having owned a dealership and worked for a Japanese auto manufacturer for the past 40 years attending many training sessions I can repeat what we we told of their testing regime as witnessed by them selves at the factory. Engines run at full load for 24 hours ,all parameters recorded,engines then dismantled inspected assembled and re run and tested again, when some thing showed premature wear or failed it was modified and the testing went on. Engines of the same series but turbo charged, undergo a redesign internally beefing up already strong components to take a modest 30% increase in power. I had the opportunity to sit next to a race car engine developer at a the release of a new car who was doing a turbo up grade on the Mazda MX5 and he stated that the engines from the factory have an 80% over engineered power increase factor. I own and fly behind a subaru EA81 motor and a j230 so I have some experience in both fields, people who tell me of what motors can and cannot do usually do not have any practical experience

There seem to be a lot of people who like to say that something won’t work but have not tried tried it. Auto engines are tested to destruction and auto company’s have far bigger budgets than any aero manufacturer . I would fly behind a Honda any day as Bex said it’s just too heavy for your application

Robert Stanford Tuck would have to be up in the front row

Good to see you are still at it. It's looking like it's finally assembly time ?

All very interesting can't wait to see it all coming together, keep the pictures coming

I have used the Subaru cleaner when servicing their engines . Subaru seem to suffer from coking of the valves amongst other things,this cleaner softens and removes this coking providing you use it at every service. It can be verified if you use a vacuum guage and do a before and after test, the after test will show a higher vacuum reading indicating the valve backs have been cleaned and air is flowing more efficiently into the combustion chamber. Customers have commented that their cars ran better after the treatment and used less fuel. I have never had the opportunity to remove the heads after treatment to visually confirm the product, but on balance the customers are happy and that's good for every one. I have soaked a piston in the product and it certainly removed the carbon on it . Tried it on the Victa 2 stroke mower worked on that ,it certainly didnt do any harm

Cannot answer the issue on fuel pumps,it is only a auto. pump and they dont seem to give too much trouble in cars .the rubber is some what different in them compared to the carby in that it is reinforced with fabric ,the back up of and electric pump helps out here BUT if it makes you feel at ease replace it

You are quite right BUT I got out and checked it at the end of the runway befor take off and immediately went for a fly . I only put very small dibs on the cowl for that reason, what would be good I if say 5 of us did the same and we compared pictures. What would be really interesting would be if some one with really good temps did it to see if this is different between ac and why . How about it fellow 230 drivers feeling up to it. Maybe even a tuft test with some one taking pictures in flight from another ac??

This cowl looks like he has addressed the cowl issue

I have an Avid with a Subaru engine in it an this is what I do for an annual to the motor. Change oil and filter (cut open filter to inspect for metal fragments if you wish) ,.Check and adjust as required tappet clearance ( the clearance will depend on cam used ) flush and change coolant ,check cooling system hoses check carburettor security and if you have bing carbs and the diaphragm has not been changed replace the diaphragms , syc carburettors (if you have 2) ,check engine mounts and mount frame for cracks ,check exhaust system,check /replace spark plugs as required ,inspect air filter . What I find works for me is after I have done all this and before I put cowls on I sit down have a cup of tea a deep breath and look again at all I have done just in case I for got something.