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Tail Plane Removal


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I'M looking at taking my tail plane off and wanting any tips or procedure of how to get it off without stuffing anything up.

Start by disconnecting your elevator pushrod, then remove the bolt that joins the 2 elevators (you may require assistance to gently wriggle the 2 elevators apart where the sleeve slides together). Remove the bolts that attach the tailplane brace cables at the horizontal stabs. The horizontal stabs complete with elevators should just pull off the stubbs that they are located on (pull in a straight line outwards).

To remove the vertical stab and rudder- disconnect the rudder cables at the rudder, remove the attaching bolt at the front stab bracket and the bolt at the rudder post ( aft spar on vert stab- down near the fuslage tube) and the lower rudder hinge attached to the rudder post. As long as that hinge is disengaged the vertical stabilizer and rudder will be able to be lifted up on off together.

 

 

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I'M looking at taking my tail plane off and wanting any tips or procedure of how to get it off without stuffing anything up.

 

 

There you go Sandman, I knew these Forumites would get you there in the end.107_score_010.gif.2fa64cd6c3a0f3d769ce8a3c21d3ff90.gifAlan.

It was worth waiting for Sandman 071_yawn.gif.43c7f5f86675fec124ffe33bd2e896f0.gif .

 

I like the words of UK ex-PM Margaret Thatcher about patience: "I am extraordinarily patient, provided I get my own way in the end." 065_evil_grin.gif.2006e9f40863555e5894f7036698fb5d.gif

 

 

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Time taken to remove tail plane - 10 minutes

 

Time taken to read through thread and find the answer - 30 minutes

 

Well Sandman, the upside is this is still a FAR better turn around than a) trying to figure it out yourself and B) trying to do it from an actual aircraft manual!

 

 

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Something to note is the twists in the wires. I know that mine was tuned by Wayne fisher in this way. At one stage I had to remove the tail so was carefully to note how many twists so as to return it to original.

 

 

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Something to note is the twists in the wires. I know that mine was tuned by Wayne fisher in this way. At one stage I had to remove the tail so was carefully to note how many twists so as to return it to original.

I personally think that you are better off rigging on reassembly with an inclinometer or ther such angle measuring device. ie: make sure that it is symetrical, level, etc with correct tension. It is my understanding that Mr Fisher, when tuning, is just ensuring that all your rigging is true.

 

 

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