Old Koreelah Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 I've been adding Shell 2T (locally available) to my AvGas and have just obtained a bottle of Moreys UCL. Why not use both, in small concentrations? Are the two compatible? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
facthunter Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 I have no idea. 2T is only the lowest performing (cheapest) two stroke. usually used in lawnmowers. The outboard specifically is anti rust and high performance ( The racing one is). it also mixes well (but I recommend mixing with an amount of fuel before putting it in the tank, to ensure the blob of oil doesn't just end up in the fuel pipe as a slug and cause problems). Unlikely, but it IS an aeroplane, so be careful ..Nev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 I've been adding Shell 2T (locally available) to my AvGas and have just obtained a bottle of Moreys UCL.Why not use both, in small concentrations? Are the two compatible? I'de be using one or the other, singularly they both have runs on the board, mix em........who knows. The " marine" oil sounds interesting ....will have to get onto me mate and ask. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
facthunter Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 Mixing increases the unknowns. Nev 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jetjr Posted June 22, 2015 Author Share Posted June 22, 2015 There was some evidence around that only mineral types fully mixed and this is why 2T is recommended. Much of this comes from diesel discussions though. Castrol Activ 2T is an FC version so the highest full mineral type available easily. I recall was some additive in marine types which was a specific issue in diesel Obviously mixing in Avgas or other petrol is a different story and high performance stuff would mix fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
facthunter Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 Valvoline Racing Two stroke is a Mineral HIGH performance oil which I am happy with in two stroke air cooled engines. Strictly speaking the racing outboard is for liquid cooled motors, but the limiting factor is piston ring land temperatures. and the fact it is for racing should cover the situation, as that is the most severe use likely. The Rotax 582 states that the aircooled specs are ok for it, even though it is liquid cooled. ( should be any how as they are higher ) so I've been happy to use it, and I know many others have over the years too. I don't recommend outboard oil as it's not Rotax's recommendation . I've digressed a little from the original Jabiru thing, so don't let me confuse anyone please. Most of these specialised two stroke oils mix easily in both mogas and avgas. Generally it is considered that synthetics don't provide as good a rust inhibiting function as mineral oils. Important if motors not used regularly. Nev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Koreelah Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 Thanks for that fellas. Looks like the least worst option is to add Moreys to fuel and inject the best oil I can get downstream of the carby on shutdown. On my next trip to Newscastle I'll try to get some of that outboard 2-stroke as advised by Nev. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nong Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 Inox is the go as its main ingredient is Lanolin which cones from sheep. It is excreted from sebaceous glands on the sheep and works its way through the wool. It is also known as wool oil or grease. Reckon you are confusing MX3 Inox with MX4 Lanox, both from Candan Ind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
facthunter Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 Downstream of the Carby is the go. Oil in the carby could affect it's calibration. Nev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Koreelah Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 Downstream of the Carby is the go. Oil in the carby could affect it's calibration. Nev Agreed, Nev. I'd like to replace the crude setup I have been using because it's leaked a noticeable amount of oil. I don't want to install the CAMit system until I have a major overhaul due. Meanwhile, it would be nice to have a pump and proper jet nozzle. One of the posts mentioned an oil that doesn't produce smoke. That's nice for the environment, but I have relied on a smoke plume to tell me the oil is getting into the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downunder Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 What about Boeshield? I use it on my Rotax carby springs to stop them going rusty, amongst other things. Works well. Comes in a spray can with nozzle and tube..... Why Boeshield T-9®? Unlike other products, Boeshield T-9® cleans, lubricates and protects. One high-performance formula does it all. Whatever the application, whatever the conditions, you can count on T-9 to work harder, last longer and perform better. On a seafaring yacht, a dusty ATV or a shower door, T-9 has you covered. T-9 endures muddy bike trails, rain-soaked back roads and salted highways. It withstands farmer’s fields, offshore oil rigs and carpenter’s workshops. For everyone from firefighters and road crews to cyclists and sailors, Boeshield T-9® is the proven solution. True aerospace technology. T-9 was developed and licensed by global aerospace leader, The Boeing Company, to fill a need for high-performance, long-term metal protection and lubrication. T-9’s unique formulation of solvent carrier and paraffin wax coating was engineered to penetrate crevices deeply, displace moisture, dissolve minor corrosion, and leave a clean, waxy coating with lasting durability—without using Teflon, silicone, fluorocarbons, MEK, or acetone. Cleans. T-9 attacks existing corrosion, loosens rusty parts and flushes out old lubricants. It is also extremely useful for drying wet parts, electrical motors and circuits, ignitions and connectors. Easy, fast and clean lubrication. Spray T-9 on and wipe off the excess for immediate use. T-9 dries to a waxy, waterproof finish without leaving a sticky film to attract dirt, dust or mud. Reaches deeper. T-9 stays liquid long enough to permeate metal crevices and seep deep inside assembled components to leave a durable protective coating that lubricates and protects—all without dismantling your equipment. One step to long-term protection. Apply T-9 to any metal surface and let it dry. One simple step gives you a thin, penetrating film of durable, waterproof protection and lubrication that endures, month after month, or mile after mile. Completely waterproof. T-9 dries to a clean, waxy, waterproof film that won’t wash off in rain, puddles or mud. You can rinse away sand, dust and grime with water, while leaving the lubricant intact. Tough but safe. T-9 will not harm paint, plastic, rubber, fiberglass or vinyl. It can be used on engines, wiring and belts. T-9 is nonconductive and will not cause short circuits, so it’s also safe to use on electronics. Perfect for coastal areas. T-9 is particularly effective for use in protecting all metals in salt water coastal areas. Easy to remove. Use solvent or any emulsifying cleaner to remove T-9, or simply respray and allow T-9 to dissolve itself before wiping it off. Boeshield? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozbear Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 Auto trans oil works ok Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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