jetjr Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 where to source inhibiting oil? Will something else do the job, needs a hone anyway Any tips on process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
facthunter Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 It's on the CASA website (still as far as I know). The full procedure is laid out. (including hygroscopic caps in the plug holes. I used to buy a storage oil from Castrol but it's no longer made. The AERO oils with PLUS in the title have additives to stop camlobe corrosion in engines not used regularly. There would be a specific aviation product to inhibit engines. Honing we do is only to restore the criss cross scratch patina, not remove significant metal. which will affect running clearances adversely. Nev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jetjr Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share Posted June 20, 2015 Yeah theres special products but will have to be ordered Pretty sure Camit just uses normal plus engine oil Jabiru have a process but just involves squirting ol into plug holes with piston at bottom, talk about an oil atomiser?? What about diesel? Have used it sucessfully on machinery before to prevent rust long term? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
facthunter Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 CRC or WD 40.... Atomise into plug hole. If you could make a flexible extension with a fitting that sprays a fan at the end that would be good. I do it with pumps and lawn mowers that often rust exhaust valves into the guides when they are stored. Outboard motor two stroke with avgas or kero to thin it, would be OK It is inflammable though, so exercise caution. Nev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jetjr Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share Posted June 20, 2015 Ahhh Like the WD40 idea.......was on special at Aldi and i bought a heap Thought that would be a low brow farmers choice, im good at them. The engine is being replaced and im really just trying to protect it a bit for the future. Will need cylinders removing and rings replacing at a minimum Id say one day. So not too worried. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
facthunter Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 There's INOX as well. You can't get oversize pistons. (or Couldn't ) as the size is the maximum already for the Holden Piston. you might as well look after the cyls. Makes the difference in being able to be used and not being Nev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Isaac Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 I would use Inox and make a spray attachment and tube and feed it into the carburettor throat and empty the can into the engine whilst it is running. Leave the plugs in and shut it down immediately the can runs out. That will coat all components in the cylinders and top end including the valves and guides. I wouldn't use CRC or WD40; both are inferior to Inox. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downunder Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 DO NOT USE CRC. CRC will dry out.(Red can 5.56) It will lubricate when wet but will dry out removing existing lubrication. I had a situation where pneumatic cylinders started to stick and people would spray CRC in through the air port. While wet the cylinder would improve, then generally the next day it would sieze solid. The CRC having washed out any existing lubrication, then evaporated or dried out. Perhaps the formula was changed. I don't know, but had to deal with the dramas it caused. WD40, I don't know about. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jetjr Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share Posted June 20, 2015 I know of the "101 uses", around 95 arent a great idea or theres better things for the job Think Ill run with 2 stroke and avgas and mist it with air atomiser With both plugs out should blast spare straight back on my face, but cover OK inside. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
facthunter Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 Anything you do will be better than doing nothing. The oil rings wipe almost everything off the cylinder walls Nev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gandalph Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 I'm using hygroscopic plugs ( got some made up to fit the Jab) and engine preserving oil. I'll need to go back through my records to get the name of the oil I'm using and the supplier . I'll post the details tomorrow sometime when I get to the relevant box of invoices. See post # 26 in the cylinder Bore Corrosion thread or a pic of the hygroscopic plugs I had made up. PM me for details Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oscar Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 Do NOT use WD40 - it actually strips any protecting oil from metal!, as Downunder has mentioned for CRC. I once asked the Conservators at the Australian War Memorial what they use as a general protection for metals, in that case firearms stored away in the gun-safe about what to use and innocently mentioned 'what about WD40? . The head of the Metals conservation group there was a Research Fellow of the NASM and a senior figure in the 'Modern Metals' conservator network world-wide - and he gave me a lecture about why not to use it. The suggestion then was CRC 'Longlife' - not regular CRC - which is not usually on the shelves at Supercheap etc. but is available if you dig around at a Blackwoods or similar engineering supply stores. I think - but am not sure - that Inox is a better solution than WD40; I don't know if it is as good as the CRC Longlife, however.. CAMit use an inhibiting oil as the final step before crating engines up; I think it is a Shell product but I'm not sure what grade. It gets sprayed under high pressure into the cylinders and up the exhaust stacks (and all over the operator of the spray device if one is not used to exactly how to apply it - ask me how I know.. ) and the engines are then sealed up and NOT turned over. The exhaust stacks and the carby inlet are plugged, and the plugs are tightened into the heads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgwilson Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 The stuff used in the Jab engines from the CAMIT assembly is quite thick and sticky, a bit like chain oil & is coloured blue but what it actually is I have no idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gandalph Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 Jetjr this is the stuff I used. Got ours from Skyshop in Vic. - ASAP spares in Caboolture also carry A/C Spruce stuff, dont know if they have this though. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/vpci326.php And these are the re-useable hygroscopic plugs I had made up when I couldn't find any to fit the Jab's plug size. I had several sets made up just to use up the materials we had to buy. Happy to sell them off to re-coup some of the costs if anyone's interested. Also an article on engine preservation from Avweb that you might find useful.http://www.avweb.com/news/redundant/storing_your_airplane_for_winter_207881-1.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oscar Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 Yes, it's sprayed in fairly warm, using an air-fed spray gun with a fine dispersant nozzle at sufficient pressure to ensure pretty much total saturation of the operator from hat to boots, as well as protecting the engine itself. CAMit developed the spray head through a number of iterations to get the best coverage + misting effect in the cylinders. I should have realised why several of the CAMit people were standing around watching - but well back - when I did my engine... on the upside, neither I nor my hat or boots have rusted, so a good result all around. The engine had excellent compressions on all pots when finally started something like 18 months later for test runs; Ian Bent watched it run on the test stand and said it sounded 'very healthy'. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gandalph Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 I'd second the warnings posted by Oscar about WD & CRC. I've heard that from several sources over the years. An NRMA tech told me they were good as fine penetrating oil but shouln't be used as a long term lubricant or preservation oil because of chemical changes that can adversly affect the metal when it dries out. I use INOX now as my tool preservative oil. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazza 38 Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 For a bit of useless information, WD 40 was invented in 1953. The WD stands for Water Displacement and the 40 stands for it took 40 attempts to perfect their solution. It still remains a little secret what oil is used in it. The Safety Data sheet lists whats it it of course but it says " aviation oil " which is actually a minor part of the mix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazza 38 Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 Inox is the go as its main ingredient is Lanolin which cones from sheep. It is excreted from sebaceous glands on the sheep and works its way through the wool. It is also known as wool oil or grease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 ... on the upside, neither I nor my hat or boots have rusted, so a good result all around. . oscar.......you tossar:cheezy grin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
facthunter Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 WD does displace water. I find ALL of the products do some kind of a job. I have lots of machinery and tools and have run and owned a Vineyard in a salty environment.( 4 tractors and lots of equipment.) For our aircraft, my recommendation was Outboard oil diluted with a solvent that leaves the oil after the solvent has gone, for short term storage . If you are inhibiting an engine long term do it as advised on the CASA website. Nev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 mixing 2 stroke oil into avgas / mogas would have to increase rust protection in the short term . ( 20...30ml oil, per 20L fuel ) Many craft parked up for some weeks at a time, some based coastal areas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
facthunter Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 Marine two stroke oil has rust inhibitors, and won't form carbon. Also doesn't affect octane rating. Nev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Koreelah Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 Marine two stroke oil has rust inhibitors, and won't form carbon. Also doesn't affect octane rating. Nev Nev does that also apply to the ordinary 2T oil we get inland? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 petro guy here, ( forum ) recommends castrol activ 2T. He's jab flyer as well. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
facthunter Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 After looking into all the types I reckon racing outboard . I like the corrosion inhibiting aspect of it. You use so little the cost isn't much of a factor.You don't want anything that might carbon ring grooves, and some jab pistons get pretty hot. Nev 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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