IBob Posted June 10, 2016 Share Posted June 10, 2016 My kit was manufactured December 2014. Comments and suggestions welcomed. Always. The Elevator: Went together quickly, with just a couple of things to note: 1. The (short) rear longeron is attached at it's end by two right-angle brackets, SE023. The text says, CORRECTLY, that the long side of these brackets goes to the longeron. However, the sketch on the following page specifically shows them with the short side to the longeron. This is how I first 'dry' assembled them. And the skins will go on the whole thing, but it all needs working a bit in this area. On reassembly, I followed the text, and the holes all just lined up. 2. I have a solitary misplaced rivet hole. Everything else lines up so well, this came as a surprise. 3. Having used the straps supplied for pulling up the leading edge skin on the Stabiliser, I used my own small strops and a piece of wood (as per Marks' system in Kyle Communications) here. This is not a difficult leading edge, but it was almost ridiculously easy with that setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBob Posted June 10, 2016 Author Share Posted June 10, 2016 I think plastic tips are best fitted first to Elevator, then to Stabiliser, with these units temporarily assembled together. For trimming and fitting the tips, I used the same methods as fin/rudder: - mounting 'petal' strips - positioning tip and marking up cut ends with masking tape - removing tip and cutting on wood support with multiple passes of craft knife along straight edge - checking for fit and trimming further as required: this cutting method allows for very fine adjustment cuts - bevelling inside edge of tip to give clearance over rib edge, using hand deburrer. See Stabiliser thread for some pics of this. Pics below are of: - wood support for cutting - old woodworking tool I never thought I'd use here, handy for marking fastener line on completed tip, but NOT for use on skins - and weird stuff with blocks and levels while I try to make the LH and RH tips the same Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBob Posted June 21, 2016 Author Share Posted June 21, 2016 NB: there is a thread here from JG3 titled Elevator Hinge Reinforcement, which is very important reading. I will be replacing the brass bushings with Teflon before assembly, also ensuring these pivot points are set up with no more than appropriate clearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy s Posted June 21, 2016 Share Posted June 21, 2016 Looks like your really getting into it and I'm enjoying the progress and seeing some different ways of doing things and useful Mods coming off the Savannah scene.. Like the Table Bob :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBob Posted June 21, 2016 Author Share Posted June 21, 2016 Looks like your really getting into it and I'm enjoying the progress and seeing some different ways of doing things and useful Mods coming off the Savannah scene..Like the Table Bob :-) Thank you, Guy. It's quite a trip on your own, though I'm a very long way from being the first! I find I use this site a great deal, both pictures and comments, to help me understand the bits I'm not sure about. I am currently working on my first wing, but putting that aside to familiarise myself with the fuel tanks setup. I'm moving pretty slowly, trying to avoid having to do things twice... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBob Posted June 21, 2016 Author Share Posted June 21, 2016 NB: The elevator wingtip pivot pins (bolts) are two different lengths. The longer one goes on the LH wingtip, where it also serves as a pivot for the trimtab linkage (hence the extra length). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rankamateur Posted June 21, 2016 Share Posted June 21, 2016 NB: The elevator wingtip pivot pins (bolts) are two different lengths. The longer one goes on the LH wingtip, where it also serves as a pivot for the trimtab linkage (hence the extra length). When you are working out left and right of this assembly point, take note that the frame is probably upside down on the bench with the mountings pointing skyward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightyknots Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 NB: there is a thread here from JG3 titled Elevator Hinge Reinforcement, which is very important reading.I will be replacing the brass bushings with Teflon before assembly, also ensuring these pivot points are set up with no more than appropriate clearance. Would you be able to include the link? I don't seem to be able to find this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBob Posted June 27, 2016 Author Share Posted June 27, 2016 Would you be able to include the link? I don't seem to be able to find this. Use the 'Search' over on the left there, and type in Elevator Hinge Reinforcement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightyknots Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 Use the 'Search' over on the left there, and type in Elevator Hinge Reinforcement. Yes, that worked fine with the right search words string. The link is here: Elevator Hinge Reinforcement Some sage advice well worth following. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBob Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share Posted August 10, 2016 Postscipt to fitting the elevator tips: The elevator must be set up to allow plus and minus 25degrees of travel. The front cutaway of the elevator tips may require trimming to allow the necessary clearance for this. I hope to post dimensions when I get back to this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBob Posted August 21, 2016 Author Share Posted August 21, 2016 And...some things are half done before you figure out how to do them: today I was mopping up the various solid riveting I had postponed until I got the tools together (ordering the correct die for the (borrowed) squeeze, then sourcing the specified rivets, both of which made the job a whole lot easier). As detailed for the wings and flaperons, the solid riveting then went very easily by using the edge of the bench as a positioning guide for the tool. I did this because tidy riveting relies on presenting the tool perpendicular to the rivet, and I am not very good at eyeballing such things. I did the same again with the elevator, but when it came to the trim tab, I ended up working freehand. Which went slow and painful until about half way along when my fingers worked it out: 1. Small awl to clear primer from hole if the rivet won't go in. 2. In with the rivet. It's blurry because the wife was on camera. I don't work that fast. 3. Holding rivet in place with index finger, tilt trimtab up. 4. Position squeeze on head of rivet, and hold there with index finger. Do not squeeze yet. 5. This is a nice easy position. With the tool open (not touching the bottom of the rivet yet) it allows careful eyeballing and adjustment of the position of the tool. I worked with it resting on the edge of the bench. 6. When happy with position, squeeze. Though I still saw some small variations from rivet to rivet, I found this easy and quick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FIL65 Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 Hi Bob, I’m just about to start the build of my tail feather and see you were fitting Teflon bushes. Did you have yours made? Cheers Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBob Posted February 7, 2018 Author Share Posted February 7, 2018 Hi Bob,I’m just about to start the build of my tail feather and see you were fitting Teflon bushes. Did you have yours made? Cheers Phil Hi Phil, big holdup in completion of my S, so no bushes fitted so far, and I didn't look into sourcing or making them yet. I will probably make them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightyknots Posted February 7, 2018 Share Posted February 7, 2018 Hi Phil, big holdup in completion of my S, so no bushes fitted so far, and I didn't look into sourcing or making them yet. I will probably make them. I wonder if they sell these bushes "by the dozen" ...or similar? Is it worth it for a number of builders to get together and order a larger quantity (possibly to get a better price)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FIL65 Posted February 7, 2018 Share Posted February 7, 2018 I’m am looking at some suppliers at the moment. I will investigate the cost of doing a batch and make up a kit for owners and builders if it is cost viable. I need to find all the bushes in my kit and take some dimensions. Would be nice if those dimensions were available in the parts list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBob Posted February 7, 2018 Author Share Posted February 7, 2018 I’m am looking at some suppliers at the moment. I will investigate the cost of doing a batch and make up a kit for owners and builders if it is cost viable.I need to find all the bushes in my kit and take some dimensions. Would be nice if those dimensions were available in the parts list. Read JG3's Elevator Hinge Reinforcement thread, specifically here Elevator Hinge Reinforcement He's been at it a long time! You will see he made oversized bushes for the flaperons to maximise bearing surface. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FIL65 Posted February 7, 2018 Share Posted February 7, 2018 I will look at all the bushes, keen to ensure they are up to the task. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted February 7, 2018 Share Posted February 7, 2018 From my Mabel thread "I am not sure if JG bought them or got them made. But they were 10mm outside dia..maybe you can buy them other than that you need to make them yourself or get someone to make them. preferably on a cnc lathe of course. I am looking into it and may do it on Mabel yet. " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FIL65 Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 I have found an engineering company here on the coast that can machine the bushes in Teflon. A kit of 17 bushes, qty 10 of the 8mm, qty 5 of the 12mm and qty 2 of the 16.5mm. For anyone interested it will be $360.00 plus postage. I will be ordering my set shortly. Cheers Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBob Posted April 4, 2018 Author Share Posted April 4, 2018 I have found an engineering company here on the coast that can machine the bushes in Teflon. A kit of 17 bushes, qty 10 of the 8mm, qty 5 of the 12mm and qty 2 of the 16.5mm.For anyone interested it will be $360.00 plus postage. I will be ordering my set shortly.Cheers Phil Hi Phil, will these have the oversize flaperon bushes, as per JG3s post, or are they straight copies of the brass bushes? Cheers Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FIL65 Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 Hi Bob, They are straight copies of the originals. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 I am not sure Phil about keeping the teflon bushes the same size as the brass ones I would think they would need to be larger. I would think the hanger bracket holes and the pivot mounts would need to be drilled out to a larger size so there is more teflon. The teflon is a better bearing surface but it would need more thickness for the strenght Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FIL65 Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 Do you think all the bushes need to be larger diameter or just the flaperon ones? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 Certainly the flaperon ones ... I havent had a real good look at them all yet. Anything to do with the flaperons and elevator MUST be strong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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