Kyle Communications Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 Hi Karl On my blog on the forums here I replaced the fuel sump low level bulb with a 10mm 12V flashing LED...just drilled out the bulb holder and fitted the LED inside...works a treat and no bulbs to fall out as they do fall out of those fittings they supply in the kit. There is a lot of pages in my blog..about 64 or something but you can use the search function on the thread to find anything by name usually. I am currently working on a method of measuring total fuel onboard by using a pressure sensor that will be mounted at the outlet of the sump. This will be able to measure all fuel and also how much in each tank. if you turn off each tank you will see how much all the ones that are on have in them and you could do this with each tank. There will be some sort of either bar graph or maybe even a Oled display that will be able to tell you how much fuel you have. All of the fuel may not be useable though as you will find out if you are decending and the light comes on...you level out and the light goes out...happed to me a few times when the level in the tanks you hae turned on gets low. The 4 way manifold I made works a treat there are no pipes that go upwards and I have never had a vapour lock in the sump like many others have had using the standard ICP tank system. I also have the fuel return from the engine going back into the end of that 4 way manifold so that also makes it easy and I have a tap on it so I can turn it off if I need/want to. The only fuel problem I had was a insect got into that 3mm pipe vent under the wing and stopped all fuel from coming out of that tank and I had to land and clear it out then I could use the fuel in that tank. I then changed mine so the breathers were above the caps and it is just 1/4 alu tube bent and threaded and placed into the caps...no more troubles with that now since at all...that is also in my blog. I will try to find the relevent pages and post them here for you tonight when I get home from work Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 here is the page for the flashing LED Another NEW Savannah XL on its way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 Another NEW Savannah XL on its way post#876 I think I mention it and the next page shows the tubes I made...I think I have a picture of them installed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camel Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 Just looked at Viking 130 video and looks good ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savannah Karl Posted February 26, 2018 Author Share Posted February 26, 2018 Hi KarlOn my blog on the forums here I replaced the fuel sump low level bulb with a 10mm 12V flashing LED...just drilled out the bulb holder and fitted the LED inside...works a treat and no bulbs to fall out as they do fall out of those fittings they supply in the kit. There is a lot of pages in my blog..about 64 or something but you can use the search function on the thread to find anything by name usually. I am currently working on a method of measuring total fuel onboard by using a pressure sensor that will be mounted at the outlet of the sump. This will be able to measure all fuel and also how much in each tank. if you turn off each tank you will see how much all the ones that are on have in them and you could do this with each tank. There will be some sort of either bar graph or maybe even a Oled display that will be able to tell you how much fuel you have. All of the fuel may not be useable though as you will find out if you are decending and the light comes on...you level out and the light goes out...happed to me a few times when the level in the tanks you hae turned on gets low. The 4 way manifold I made works a treat there are no pipes that go upwards and I have never had a vapour lock in the sump like many others have had using the standard ICP tank system. I also have the fuel return from the engine going back into the end of that 4 way manifold so that also makes it easy and I have a tap on it so I can turn it off if I need/want to. The only fuel problem I had was a insect got into that 3mm pipe vent under the wing and stopped all fuel from coming out of that tank and I had to land and clear it out then I could use the fuel in that tank. I then changed mine so the breathers were above the caps and it is just 1/4 alu tube bent and threaded and placed into the caps...no more troubles with that now since at all...that is also in my blog. I will try to find the relevent pages and post them here for you tonight when I get home from work Mark Hey Mark, I've been reading a lot of your information on here. I have seen the four way fuel valve you use. Looks like a nice solution. I'm very interested in the fuel total measurement device your working on. You'll have to let me know how that comes along. I like the idea of knowing a total fuel onboard and being able to see what you have in each tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 I am talking to a sensor manufacturer now about the specific type of sensor I want to use. They are not ATEX certified but are fully sealed and laser welded. ATEX is just a rip off anyway. They have it for radios and its just a excuse to triple the price of a radio. The only difference between the std model (in a good radio I am talking about like a Icom commercial grade HH) is that they have a fuse inside the battery... that is the only difference...you pay about $1000 to have the paperwork for it.....sounds like aircraft doesnt it :) The theory behind all of this it should work well I believe with the right sensor. Hopefully today I will get some pricing and a few samples on the way Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savannah Karl Posted February 26, 2018 Author Share Posted February 26, 2018 I am talking to a sensor manufacturer now about the specific type of sensor I want to use. They are not ATEX certified but are fully sealed and laser welded. ATEX is just a rip off anyway. They have it for radios and its just a excuse to triple the price of a radio. The only difference between the std model (in a good radio I am talking about like a Icom commercial grade HH) is that they have a fuse inside the battery... that is the only difference...you pay about $1000 to have the paperwork for it.....sounds like aircraft doesnt it :)The theory behind all of this it should work well I believe with the right sensor. Hopefully today I will get some pricing and a few samples on the way Mark Yep if the word aviation is anywhere near any of this stuff it's automatically triple the price. This does sound like a promising solution though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savannah Karl Posted March 3, 2018 Author Share Posted March 3, 2018 Well today was the day. Pay no attention to the silly, over-excited builder but here is the first engine start of my Viking 130 on a Savannah S. Check it out and let me know what you think. https://photos.app.goo.gl/YgHLrP7syvvQysUl2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBob Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 Well today was the day. Pay no attention to the silly, over-excited builder but here is the first engine start of my Viking 130 on a Savannah S. Check it out and let me know what you think.https://photos.app.goo.gl/YgHLrP7syvvQysUl2 Magic...congratulations!!!What is the shallow rectangular section under the centre floor of the cockpit reaching forward to the nose leg? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savannah Karl Posted March 3, 2018 Author Share Posted March 3, 2018 Magic...congratulations!!!What is the shallow rectangular section under the centre floor of the cockpit reaching forward to the nose leg? Thanks, that is the radiator. the cowling that I'm using will line up with the front of that so the airflow is actually through the engine compartment, into the radiator and then out the bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 Its like the birth of a new child :)... excitement plus. Congratulations. There was a drip coming from the front looks like from the gearbox T section or was it condensation from the cold air? Certainly super smooth too. I like the celebratory drinks for the whole family too. What about your son;s video from a different angle showing the start see if you can post that too please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savannah Karl Posted March 3, 2018 Author Share Posted March 3, 2018 You have a good eye Kyle. It was coming from the T fitting at the gearbox. I've got too much bend in the line there. I'll see if I can get the other video on here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetrack Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 That grin on your face will take a while to wipe off! It's looking good, that Viking/Honda is a neat package. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savannah Karl Posted March 4, 2018 Author Share Posted March 4, 2018 That's grin on your face will take a while to wipe off! It's looking good, that Viking/Honda is a neat package. Your right about that. It's been a few hours and I'm still as happy as can be. Of course started it a number of times since then too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 I like how everyone with a Viking comments on how smooth they run and the glass is a great show off of that. I am looking for a powerplant for my next build after I finish Mabel which will most likely be the Rans S21 Outbound. Rans now have a Titan 180hp in a S20 raven and are putting a Titan 180hp in the second Outbound they are building now as well. The Titan is getting up there in weight as well and the Rans mounts and firewall is a lot stronger so the Viking could be a really good fit for it..especially at half the price in $US BTW looks bloody cold over there too...we never ever see snow here only in one small part of the country here Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gareth lacey Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 Aeromomentum 131hp looks good, this is the engine in my next build starting soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 what are you building Gareth? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gareth lacey Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 airframe will be a low wing ,design will be a mixture of some existing airframes but personalised mods, nothing to drastic , just a safe flying craft , i have given myself 18 mths to build and am steadily aquiring parts , will start the airframe this time next year, i will then have all the parts req ,will be looking for some advise for electrics , will need to contract you for some final finishing work on electrics cheers Gareth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 No problem...just remember...keep it light :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gareth lacey Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 Yes , thats for sure ,my aim is to have 2x 10inch TL Elektronic screens ,transponder,radio and a few switches and fuses and a flap controller /trim contol and maybe auto pilot 2 axis controller not as much stuff as the Morgan build ,and using tefzel wire this time LOL ,i will probably pick your expertise in some of this and as before get you to check and close out wiring (paid of course) Cheers gareth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 What are you going to feed the TL screens with...they are just industrial monitors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 I found the TL efis stuff....not cheap.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gareth lacey Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 but cheaper than Garmin ,Dynon,grand rapids ,Glance. they sell the modules for all their EFIS/EMS/Auto pilot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gareth lacey Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 and i need the bigger screens ,my eyes are not getting any better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightyknots Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 Well today was the day. Pay no attention to the silly, over-excited builder but here is the first engine start of my Viking 130 on a Savannah S. Check it out and let me know what you think.https://photos.app.goo.gl/YgHLrP7syvvQysUl2 Fantastic! Well done Karl and family. I have been having conversations with CAA (the NZ equivalent to the FAA in the USA). I was informed that if either the aircraft kit manufacturer or the engine maker produced the Fire Wall Forward package, the plane can be entered on the New Zealand register without any drama. Savannah doesn't support the Viking, so that is out of the question. So here is my question for you: do the Viking people make a FWF package specifically for the Savannah? ...I was unable to get information from Viking about this (apart from the fact that there is at least one Savannah flying around with the older Viking 110). The Viking dealer in this country legally flies a Viking 130 in his Zenith CH 701 but that is because Viking makes an off-the-shelf FWF package for the 701. Was there a lot of hassle fitting the 130 to the Sav? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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