skippydiesel

To the best of my knowledge no "specialist check required" "specific wing / fabric checks" however I advise that a pre purchase check, by a suitably qualified person, should be conducted. "...........required to have major overhaul (MO) every 10 years at the factory or authorised workshop." Yes the factory advise (not require) this be done. This is a 19 Rego /experimental aircraft, you can do all of this yourself. The latest fabrics, glues & compatible paint systems are extraordinarily durable, lightyears ahead of the materials & systems of the past. Potential owners might like to reflect that wood is the original "composite", has an almost limitless fatigue life, does not corrode and with a little care can & does exceed the lifespan of most pilots. Wood was still in use during WW2 on many fighter/bomber/transport/training aircraft - some still flying today. All wood (Zephyr also uses plastics) aircraft like the Falco are still very desirable high performance machines.

Maate! As per usual there is a glossy/gushing, almost fact free, promo of some new aircraft. While personal stories are great (especially the long distance travel ones) this is being used as a"calorie free" filler to bulk out the magazine. The safety reminders, predominantly from RAA officials, are always worth while but can often be found elsewhere. 95/98 RON ULP (in Australia) is a proven fuel source for appropriate engines. I understand that E10 mainly used overseas is, with care, also a reliable fuel. Mr Heath article is full of confusing acronyms, inaccuracies, alarmist and has little relevance for RAA level aircraft and is for the most part just crap and his battery article, not much better.

To me there is a big difference between a permanent tie down and a traveling tie down system. The permanent is a 12 month, all seasons/conditions structure, without weight restriction. The permeant can be very secure The travel system should be compact, lightweight and easy to set up/remove. The travel unit is a compromise, that is unlikly to stand up to severe wind conditions. The cautious pilot will have avoided tying down (traveling) his aircraft in this sort of weather. I see travel systems that are reasonably compact & light weight BUT then need a good sized hammer or even cordless drill, to install - questionable advantage. I see a lot of permanent and travel systems that use cheap string to secure the aircarft (most often slack) - this is counting pennies while dollars are potentially lost.

Whatever system is used - Its asking for problems if the aircraft can move on its restraints. Doesn't matter how secure/heavy the anchor. I often see aircraft tied with loose restraints - the wind/gusts will start to jerk/move the aircraft - once this starts, damage can be done to the aircraft. The jerking may also break the straps/ropes or loosen the anchor.

"Most Western Australian red dirt with moderate clay content sets like concrete in Summer. You're struggling to drive star pickets into it. I've found modified Hilti concrete bolts ("screw anchors") work for me, for anchoring items in hard W.A. ground in Summer." Is the above system good for when the ground is soaked?😈

I agree - give the owner (Jon) a call to clarify. I think this may be the youngest Zephyr in Australia and has been very well looked after, by the one owner since new. Extraordinarily wide flight envelope. Mine had a sub 30 knot stall, well under 100m TO on grass, could loiter at under 8L/hr, a little under 13L/hr @100 knots and could pick up her skirts and do 120 knots with the prop set for advantage climb. Very robust undercarriage. Quiet/comfortable interior. Lots of baggage space behind the seats.

At "home" I have three Star Pickets driven, as far as I could, into the ground. You may need to borrow/purchase a post driver (I call it a "donger") and the Star Pickets Place your aircraft where you intend to park it - mark the points where you will drive the pickets in. Remove aircraft to do the driving. Drive the pickets, at an angle away from (not straight down as in fencing) the aircraft tie down location. This is the same concept as pegging a tent . The tail picket is left as is, with the two wing pickets reduced (cut off) to easily clear the underside of the wings. Smooth the cut off edges, they are razor sharp & will do a lot more than bark your shin, if you inadvertently make contact. I go to the next level and put a plastic high viz cap on each picket. The tail picket is perhaps .5m behind the tail ( you may go further back for your nose wheel aircraft/tail in air). The two wing pickets are placed, so that the tie down straps are in front of the wing and at about 45 degrees out from the wing tie down. The concept is to remove all slack (without undue tension) on all three straps. I use cam buckle load rated straps, with metal hooks at each end, purchased from Bunnings Aerospace, to do the tying down bit. You may find that the hole in the star picket will have to be enlarged to accommodate the hook. After tensioning down the strap, I use the surplus strap to go round both ends of the hook eye and tie off, as added security A D shackle or two may help with the tail tie down. I carry a separate lightweight kit for temporary tying down, when on an away trip.

A very nice & well appointed Zephyr has just come on the market at an extraordinarily reasonable $65K. https://aviationclassifieds.com.au/listing/7357 These are truly wonderful aircraft to fly.

Just received my Issue 110 SP magazine - after a quick brows - binned it! This magazine is supposed to be a promotional window for RAA. This gloss & glitter publication, is so lacking in substance, it would not induce me to join (if I wasn't already in) The lack of factual information is astonishing. By way of example - check out the article on fuel, "The Lifeblood of flight" page 89. According to Mr Heath " MOGAS..... is essentially high-grade car fuel that meets aviation standards" news to me! He goes on to state "The petrol at most service stations contains ethanol, ........" really?? The BS continues unabated op page 91 - read on, if you can avoid choking and be astonished.

Always a bit suspicious about asking for a friend - just joking. My guess is that much will depend on the type of hearing loss. If it's just a volume thing, it's likly that the headset can be turned up to make good any loss of hearing. My David Clark headset has left/right volume control, so I tend to turn my transponder volume to full and then reduce that to what I find comfortable on the headset.

Hi Danny, Would be great if one of the electronics guru's would participate because I am just winging it - the capacitor may have an electronic noise suppression function (I don't know) but its main job is to smooth/take any"spikes" out of the charging system.

I stand to be corrected -My knowledge of electronics is virtually zero but I seem to recall that this is how the Rotax regulator started out only to retrospectively advise the installation of a capacitor after multiple failures?

Smidgion short of 200 views. The interests is there but no one willing to have a small punt. Commooooon!, even the unused batteries should be worth a few $$, for anyone who has broken off their transponder antenna, my hard to break ones must have possibilities (even as spares) and what of the VSI ? working when removed. The control column accessory mount (think Garmin) can hold (with some Velcro) almost any small Nav device including your phone.😈

Thanks Blue, I think at least two of the transceivers work but have deliberately avoided making any claims about condition. There are some pretty handy electronics enthusiasts on this Forum - that they might be intersted in the electronic stuff and the home builders in the rest. REMINDER!!! - YOU CAN MAKE AN OFFER, given the level of enthusiasm, first offer likly to get the lot.😈

Interest continues (views) but no takers - perhaps you are put off by the lack of a price???????😈

The RV4 pilot who recommended this unit, seemed to think it met all of the standards for this sort of device.

Tempting Danny. Will hold out a little longer in the hope of finding a "stiff" pipe. Thanks

Awesome teamwork. That first officer can fly with me an day.😈

My local Holden dealership tormented me (knowing my passion for almost all things diesel) with the suggestion that Holden was considering fitting their 6 speed (manual) ute with a 3L turbo diesel - would have bought one for sure.😈

Seems that 61.6 ID rolling is considered to be more of a hobby than a commercial service. I can purchase a 610mm "slip roller" for $473. Tad expensive for a one off. Anyone out there got one I can borrow/use/pay you to do the job.

The duct (part of an exhaust extraction system) need to be reasonably air tight or wont work. Overlap might do the trick, clamps add significantly to weight but a lot cheaper than welder time.

Dont be sorry, any excuse for a chat😈

Could be an ATEC Faeta NG. Check out the lower stall , same cruise of the high HS of the original Faeta

Had quite a few views - So far no responder's. You can put your own value/price on the stiff you know😈

Good thought Thruster. Tig weld would be the way to go. Any suggestions as to who might provide such a service?