Lyndon
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Everything posted by Lyndon
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I don't have any control. Both my inner tanks are on on. So no matter how I fill them they will equal out. I guess I just don't fill them up. I can fill the long range tanks as I have a tap on each of them to open and close . Not an overly good design. I would have thought using 15 plus litres and hour and returning only 4 it would be ok ??
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That makes sense. It's easier to reach for the taps on the passenger side is what you are saying.I have two taps so I can mount both on the passenger side. Then two lines from them to the the header tank. My return is going back to the tank as per the manual. I'm sure it can't pump back more than the tanks can equate them selves.
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Measure twice drill once
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Correction. I have two manifolds. Then two outlets to the header. In your experience one manifold on each side upper. Or both on the drivers side. I'm thinking what is best for ease of operation. Lyndon
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ok. Im fitting the tanks. Just confirming. Sight plastic pipe in the left tank inner. The left wing has two outlets, one for each tank, [ how long do need to have these fuel lines. ] I have the manifold kit from Reg. ???? The right tanks, two outlets one from each tank. How long for the fuel lines to manifold. then one fuel line which is a return line to the inner tank . Im asking allowable lengths of fuel line as dont want to be short and I have no experience in this and I dont have the fuse done to measure it. All four tanks plumbed to the manifold which sits behind the driver I think. From there a single line goes to the header tank. Correct ??? Thanks Lyndon
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Ok I will keep looking. But I clearly have wrong as this pre drilled hole lines up with a curved surface.
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Is it just me or ???. Manual is very unclear.
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This is the wrong way around. Eg the glass is on the outside. Can't see any reason why this would not work and it looks better. Thought s ??? Lyndon
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Thanks. I shall wait to some better pics. I've got it very close . But it won't hurt to see what you have done. Lyndon
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Did you trim your glass corner at all. The pics seem to show it cut on the top rear where it fits under skin and angular. Lyndon
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I see with interest the wooden template for the wing tip. Good idea. I'm doing the same but it still takes a bit to get right. I'm still fiddling. Be nicer if that bent angular on the top was pre drilled. I'm guessing as long it's looks nice and both are the same. Eg the glass tip looks like it can go 10 mm either way at the front. Lyndon
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Makes sense
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That's after I damage it ???
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Thanks for that. I have noticed that my angulars for my lower skin outers. Two on each side. They are shaped for the wing tip. Manual wants the bend on these towards the spar. Well that is impossible as all four of mine are identical. On this right wing the angle faces away from the spar. Then on the left wing the angle will face the spar. Two have one number the other two another number. But all four are the same. It's just an anti rattle brave so I'm happy with that.
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Manual is clear as mud. But I'm sure it's not overly important. I'm presuming seeing these skins are fitted secondly they go this way. ??? Lyndon
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For piece of mind I can send some pics of a 1740 hrs pump. Like brand new. Some housing marks a per normal but gear s perfect. Did you buy this engine recently ????
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Your quite correct. It's just insane. WHY. If you find out love to know why . Lyndon
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I've never done a Rotax. But I'm doing mine now. Bikes and cars only. I'm sure your mechanic is onto it but in my experience. Use only three bond with an 11. It's rubber . Not a 12. It's silicon. All silicons worm. There is lots on that motor that uses sealer. Just my opinion. Ps three bond is with out a doubt the best stuff
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I would be interested if you could ask the oil experts where the zinc is from and what oil was run in it. A flat tappet cam like your Rotax likes about 1300 ppm which is a challenge to find in today's oils.
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The more a filter gets shit in it the better it filters. Thus your oil pressure increases. So in fact it's filtering better than a new one
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How does brass get pass your filter ???
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How can the be. Oil to rockers come up the push rod. After that it goes no we're. It goes back thur the filter
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I still can't get over someone putting a bronze Bush in there. It would have to be a case of loosing an original part. In a rush . We can't wait and 10 minutes later on a lathe we have all new bushes. Don't worry I've seen this stuff in engines before they would have said. Rotax put the plastic bush in there for a reason I'm sure. The consequences of it could have been dire. In a way your very lucky
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The filter is not designed for that. It's for cold climate s and thick oil. It would not happen here. A rebuild with silicon for example. Minus 20 start up with a 60 weight racing oil in a Porsche. Then yes worming can be an issue. Block galleries and even when the filter is working again in say 60 seconds. It's to late. That engine will fail as it has blocked galleries. In Australia with a say a 40 or 50 oil it's never going to bypass.
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If the oil has gone thru the filter it will be fine. What can fit thru a filter will fit thru the engine without a problem. That's how it's designed. It's deemed small enough. Otherwise they would change the micron filter ing in the filter
