Lyndon
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Everything posted by Lyndon
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Your quite correct. It's just insane. WHY. If you find out love to know why . Lyndon
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I've never done a Rotax. But I'm doing mine now. Bikes and cars only. I'm sure your mechanic is onto it but in my experience. Use only three bond with an 11. It's rubber . Not a 12. It's silicon. All silicons worm. There is lots on that motor that uses sealer. Just my opinion. Ps three bond is with out a doubt the best stuff
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I would be interested if you could ask the oil experts where the zinc is from and what oil was run in it. A flat tappet cam like your Rotax likes about 1300 ppm which is a challenge to find in today's oils.
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The more a filter gets shit in it the better it filters. Thus your oil pressure increases. So in fact it's filtering better than a new one
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How does brass get pass your filter ???
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How can the be. Oil to rockers come up the push rod. After that it goes no we're. It goes back thur the filter
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I still can't get over someone putting a bronze Bush in there. It would have to be a case of loosing an original part. In a rush . We can't wait and 10 minutes later on a lathe we have all new bushes. Don't worry I've seen this stuff in engines before they would have said. Rotax put the plastic bush in there for a reason I'm sure. The consequences of it could have been dire. In a way your very lucky
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The filter is not designed for that. It's for cold climate s and thick oil. It would not happen here. A rebuild with silicon for example. Minus 20 start up with a 60 weight racing oil in a Porsche. Then yes worming can be an issue. Block galleries and even when the filter is working again in say 60 seconds. It's to late. That engine will fail as it has blocked galleries. In Australia with a say a 40 or 50 oil it's never going to bypass.
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If the oil has gone thru the filter it will be fine. What can fit thru a filter will fit thru the engine without a problem. That's how it's designed. It's deemed small enough. Otherwise they would change the micron filter ing in the filter
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A filter that full that it bypasses. Wow. If that were the case the shit in oil would lunch that engine in no time. It would be very easy to see once it's apart. Probably not even good for parts
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I've seen many failures in late model bikes. Catastrophic gear box and roller bearing failures etc. Most if not all once the engine is pulled apart and the pump found to be ok they are just cleaned the failed part replaced and are just fine. Pressing the crank apart to see if the filter didn't work seems over the top. You can pull plenty of stuff apart to check for wear that is easy to access. If it doesn't look new at those hrs then you may consider shit it the oil has done it and I'm thinking it would be uneconomical to repair. But why would a valve train wear. Excessive load on it may wear the bushings. Tight guide or incorrect valve springs ????. I would be having good look at the cam as well. They are nitraded so at a guess maybe two thousand of an inch deep and then it's cheese. The lifters have at least 2mm of hardening on them. If these are fine then I don't think you have much of an issue. Lyndon
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Wouldn't the filter have caught it all. The rockers would get clean oil. Then after them its full of shit then it goes no where and back thru th filter. Why would the plastic bushes fail????. Is what I would be asking. Then why would anyone not put the correct part back in. That makes no sense at all. I'm guessing the plastic bushes would be cheap as and in stock. My motor is apart and at 1740 hrs the bushes are perfect. If you are doing a full rebuild you would want to your sums before you commit to it. In 2 mins the oil pump is off. If that is fine then I would say everything else is fine as well. Lyndon
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Also don't don't touch the barrels until your happy with what your going to do. There are many schools of thought 're them. Personally a clean rag and carby clean then a rag and oil. Lyndon
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Why would the lifters need replacement ??? Lyndon
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I'm 55. Been flying since 26. I have never needed a light. What you are saying is use it like DRL s on a modern car. The Volvo theory. ??? Lyndon
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I'm thinking ahead. About to zip up the right wing. I believe it has no add ons. Looking ahead the left wing has the pitot tube and light. To all you builders do I need the light. why would I ever need it. Lyndon
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Thanks Lyndon
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Is this correct. Manual is not overly clear and pics on builds I can't really see. Lyndon
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Thanks will do Lyndon
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Will have a look. By memory someone is using orings Lyndon
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Getting somewhere on the first wing. The second will take about 10 mins. I'm sure there are parts that arnt even mentioned in the manual. Then in the parts list are incorrect. But it all makes sense as I build it. Question. In the real world when I use a sealer on the fuel outlets after drilling the plastic tanks. Does any one have a preferred sealer when they look back with experience. I'm expecting to seal these tanks up for many years with zero issues. Thanks Lyndon
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Before I close up the wings. I see some people have lights or strobes. I don't need these to legally fly the plane. Lyndon
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Yes I believe so
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Makes sense. Thanks will give it a shot on the weekend. Lyndon
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Excellent. Now the three skins on each wing. Can I rivet the the top. The bottom. Then the front. Or do need to divide all the clecos up for all three. It should rivet up perfectly one at a time but in practice I'm sure this won't work. Thoughts ??? Lyndon
