Lyndon

I've been a bit quiet lately. You won't believe but 17 weeks to get my cam done. I've stopped my build till I sort the engine. I had allowed about five or six weeks all up. Apparently there is unemployed people in Australia. Well when I try to get something done it takes for ever and then it's not done correctly. It's been a comedy of errors. Anyway it's now sorted. New orings in the cases. New circlip and seal. Timing Mark aligned and gear in place before cam. All five dowels in place.

Thanks I will get one. Lyndon

I think your correct. It's a one off Rotax thread.

Does anyone know the outlet coolant pipe thread on the 912 . I'm resealing them and would like to run a tap through them. Thanks Lyndon

It has a kit air box. So when I get to that stage I just vent them on the clean air side I take it. Lyndon

No air box. Using the Savannah kit one.

912 uls. Drip trays for the carbs. Worth while ???. I have no experience with this as I'm building at the moment. Thoughts please. Lyndon

Small world. He is actually my doctor. Been seeing him for 5 years. Never knew he flew plane Lyndon

I have done my gearbox. All was good. A bit of fiddling with the three diaphragms to line them up. seems odd the middle one can't be centered and relies on the others to keep it in place. There is some offset wear because of this. But it clearly works as it's done 1740 hrs and is in very good Nick . Can't believe the new halves were 70 dollars. I still can't assemble my engine as I have issues with cam end play. This is taking a long time to sort but hopefully by the end of the week it can be sorted.

I did actually.

I have thought about this again. The weak point is the charging system. As there is no back up. It that fails you are forced to look for somewhere to land. Not immediately but it will change your plans. with a mechanical pump I could have it fail. The electric pump fail or the charging system fail. Obviously not all at once. If this happens the plane will happily fly to where you were going. So I will just pay the extra and get a nice new mechanical pump. Thanks for the input. Lyndon

My motor is a 2010 or 2011. Its five years old. I'm also not of the opinion of paying 29 bucks plus gst for an o ring that I can get of the shelf for 2.90 is just plain wrong. . Keep in mind this Austrian aircraft manufacturer uses Indian parts in its engines and charges a premium for them

I'm not sure as what is required. But the pump at 1740 hrs in and aircraft has done it's job. It's 2016. Mechanical pumps are a thing of the past. I can put a plate on it for a dollar. I can run a pump on the firewall with hoses away from the engine for 25 percent of the mechanical pump. In my experience it's just as reliable. I can even run a lithium auxiliary battery set up with this pump for half the cost of the mechanical pump. I just don't like be fucked over. Its a 12 dollar pump.

Maybe I will run the USA made pump directly off the battery terminals. Via a circuit breaker. This will be my back up. At a guess it will have to run 100 hrs in 2000 hrs hrs of the engine which I will never do. And I but a genuine new Mazda 1970 pump as my main pump. If it's fitted correctly and clean fuel it will never fail. Lyndon

I haven't got to the plumbing stage yet. If gravity fed I'm sure the bings would work fine. But if they run through an electric fuel pump. Let alone two what I'm contemplating it will not work. You need pressure to run through a dead pump. Not much but it is more that a tank in a high wing

I also to be clear. Was indicating in a failure. The spare pump for take off and landing be run thru the battery. Nothing else. I'm involved in race engines that run a total loss system. As charging equals horse power. If they were a plane you would easily find a spot to land.

As I say I'm new to this. I was thinking you cut the fuel to a Rotax to stop it. I was of the understanding once running turning off the master does not stop it running. My apologies. I thought it had a redundant ignition system. Lyndon

Current diesel engines run and electric to feed the real pump which is mechanical and does all the work. But these are direct injection and run well ove 20,000 psi. Some to almost 30,000 in a performance diesel. But these are the ignition system with a boosted engine. Thus the pressure. Apart from these I think everything with a spark plug uses and electric pump as it it goes in under no pressure.

Before you disassemble. Scribe your splines with a 1 mm feeler. After cleaning and inspection, assembly with it all settled. Adjust your shims to the 1 mm Scribe. Perfect. Depress a bit over 1 mm install your new halves and it's done .

Ps always new halves

Shim as required

Is .039 tho or a mil unloaded. Depress then fit halves. Easy as

Did you find out why the pump failed ???.

Does the current efi engine run a mechanical pump ???. If it does then I will rethink my fuel arrangements. Because one thing I can assure is the carburetor is dead. Even in my lifetime.

Your mis understand. Sorry. What I'm saying the battery is not dead. You have killed one circuit with the master switch. But you can have another. Yes I do know the meaning of master. But you get my drift. Believe me your engine still runs even your master turned off