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UL Power 130 hp engine


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IF you want to experience ANGST build an aero engine. I've been thinking about it for years. There's a need for a good one, but making it foolproof would be difficult. (Fools use such ingenuity making ordinary engines bad). Nev

 

 

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There's a need for a good one, but making it foolproof would be difficult. Nev

I disagree slightly, the issue is making the "Fools" understand that EFI and CDI are now virtually bulletproof, and that you don't have to touch a darn thing, that's the hard part.

 

Yet the very same people will jump in a modern 10 year old car with 250,000kms on the clock and drive it to Perth and back without even thinking about it.

 

 

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I have been researching a few engines Rotax,ULpower,Viking,VW,MWfly,I looking for something around 125hp.But it is hard to find proper info and the prices vary heaps.

 

I like to get info from the horses mouth.

 

A lot of info you read seems to try to put you off a particular brand.

 

You always seem to read whats wrong with a engine.

 

 

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I disagree slightly, the issue is making the "Fools" understand that EFI and CDI are now virtually bulletproof, and that you don't have to touch a darn thing, that's the hard part.Yet the very same people will jump in a modern 10 year old car with 250,000kms on the clock and drive it to Perth and back without even thinking about it.

No, they aren't 'bulletproof'. The controlling electronics are now remarkably good, but there are external factors that influence the reliability of the system.

 

The electrical voltage supplied by the battery/alternator, are more critical. For some 12V systems, if you drop below about 10V, they degrade - injectors don't open fully, and efi's can drop into 'limp' mode'. A voltage spike can scramble the EMS. A system sensor going 'out-of-condition' can scramble the EMS. A control valve problem - e.g. the fuel rail return line pressure regulator - can seriously bugger your day: ask me how I know, having been dropped half-way up the first Moonbi Hill out of Tamworth with a Jab. on the trailer..

 

I am a huge fan of modern EMS - but it is NOT intrinsically 'bullet-proof'. It needs a very carefully considered installation to make it as reliable as the 'steam-age' stuff. Witness the problems with the Rotax 912 eis ( is that the first 'electronic' one they delivered? - I don't keep up much with Rotax).

 

Computer-controlled EMS WILL be far superior to the 'steam-age' stuff when there is intelligence applied to installation. But we are not quite there yet, so it's premature to just say: 'this is the answer'.

 

 

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No, they aren't 'bulletproof'.

 

virtually bulletproof,

virtually

 

adverb

 

  1. Virtually is defined as practically, almost or nearly.
    An example of virtually used as an adverb is in the sentence, "The entire town was virtually destroyed," which means the entire town was almost entirely destroyed.
     
     

 

 

 

 

 

 

and efi's can drop into 'limp' mode'.

Viking 130hp Honda Engine.

 

 

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Oscar, in the mid 1980's my second job was RACV breakdown for a few years, every second weekend and every second week nightshift 6pm to 6am.

 

In order of calls;

 

Flat battery, 99.9% lights left on.

 

Flat tyre, usually only at the bottom.

 

Closed up points or condensation in distributor cap

 

Fuel system; out of fuel, wrong fuel or sugar, dirt or water in tank

 

Locked keys in car.

 

I can remember a couple of alternator failures, but never an EFI or CDI computer failure.

 

And as I said, that was 30 years ago and it's my hands on experience and my time in that trade and seeing first hand the complete changeover and effect during that time from points and carby, to CDI and EFI that gives me so much confidence in them rather than some scattered "I know a bloke ...." type stories on the internet.

 

 

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I have actually played with that system, it was a 914 rotax modified with full EFI, obviously being controlled by the sds, when I got it there were many people thought they would fine tune it for him, to the stage of it would only just run.

Emailed the makers of the sds, they sent me a basic start piont that the motor would run on, and once you read the manual 5 times so the info sinks in, nd it all starts to make sense, at that piont you can make the motor do anything you want, but nd a big but is you must have an air/ fuel ratio guage, you need to be able to see rich or lean to properly adjust the fuel values, I think from memory every 250 rpm may be less, but you can control spark advance, fuel/ air , and a whole lot more.

 

I ended up getting the motor running sweet as, then he sold it all

 

 

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You can't have driven a VN Commodore.

I don't judge a billion cars reliably driving around with efi and cdi on a select handful of a known problems on one model. GM's purchase price of cheap crank angle sensors with a handful of failures, was far more economical than improving them and no failures.

 

Still lots of VNs still on the road btw.

 

 

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I am liking the viking 130 hp the more I look into it and the price is very inviting,the only drawback might be the weight but the horsepower should compensate for that.The thing I like most is you are dealing with a engine that is driving around on the street and parts and maintenance should be straight forward.

 

 

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I am liking the viking 130 hp the more I look into it and the price is very inviting,the only drawback might be the weight but the horsepower should compensate for that.The thing I like most is you are dealing with a engine that is driving around on the street and parts and maintenance should be straight forward.

Unlike many car engines, the Fit/Jazz engine that is the basis of the Viking 130 is designed to run flat out for lengthy periods ...in Honda outboard motors. This makes me feel more comfortable than with other auto conversions.

 

 

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