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Savannah S dream machine


Guy s

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Yes thats the part....I think I did refer in my blog to it....basically the top of the hump gets flatted a bit otherwise it just wont fit...everyone who has built one has just done the same thing

Okay, thank you for clarifying that.

That leaves me, at present, with the back of the underseat panel, where the holes are approx 10mm too high, and the side supports where all the holes are non-aligned.

 

I don't mind modifying parts if necessary, but what I need to know is that I'm not compromising the build, and I'm not fixing a problem then making another down the track.

 

 

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I had the same problem Bob, the last 2 photos part 277 had me stumped and was actually flying the plane without having it installed it but I did get back to it. I ended up matching the holes on the tunnel but having to drill a extra hole in the tunnel cause I ended up making spacers out of hard plastic that went between the back panel and part 277 so was able to align 4 of the holes on the tunnel and also had to re drill on the back panel to match 277 existing holes. Those 4 holes in 1015 didn't line up for me either.

 

I'm thinking that some of the changes made from fix to adjustable seats and maybe using some old parts that would do the job BUT leave us scratching our heads for a bit Lol

 

The first lot of photos I had 2 sets of brackets that came with the kit that went on the side wall of the aircraft which one lot of brackets was from before the change I guessing again from fix to adjustable seats. Anyway I also had problems aligning these holes up and think I had to redrill a couple out to be able to rivet.

 

It's like I got the old part and the new undated strengthen part for the front nose leg but they give u both bits when you only needed the new updated version which is a little odd as u throw the old version out but why put it in the kit.

 

 

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Just going through some photos ST 330/331- I didn't have much trouble lining up the holes except where part 277 goes but I didn't like the idea of flatting the hump. I can post a photo showing what I did wednesday when I go back to the hanger if that will help ?

 

As Mark said maybe send the guru some pics.

 

 

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I don't mind modifying parts if necessary, but what I need to know is that I'm not compromising the build,

Always a last resort because the $300,000 computer program that designed your kit is a lot smarter than any first time builder. Always cleco everything in that area before riveting anything, is a good general rule.

 

 

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Always a last resort because the $300,000 computer program that designed your kit is a lot smarter than any first time builder. Always cleco everything in that area before riveting anything, is a good general rule.

All cleko'd, no rivets at all yet, Steve.

So, did you not have to flatten the top of the tunnel, as described by Mark at #211 above?

 

 

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Just going through some photos ST 330/331- I didn't have much trouble lining up the holes except where part 277 goes but I didn't like the idea of flatting the hump. I can post a photo showing what I did wednesday when I go back to the hanger if that will help ?As Mark said maybe send the guru some pics.

Thank you, Guy.

All pics are helpful, so yes please.

 

I've had this apart and together several times now. And I can assemble it in slightly different sequences, which merely moves the bulge in what seems to be oversized panel from one place to another!

 

So, yes, I've just taken some pics and am about to send them to Reg.

 

 

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[ATTACH=full]48028[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]48029[/ATTACH]

Small difference I notice in your pics:

The tunnel at the front is tucked under the tabs at the (raised) centre of the crossmember.

 

My manual shows the tunnel at the front on top of those tabs.

 

And my tunnel has rivet holes at that overlap (where the crossmember tabs do not), which I also took to mean that the tunnel should be on top...???

 

 

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All cleko'd, no rivets at all yet, Steve.So, did you not have to flatten the top of the tunnel, as described by Mark at #211 above?

I agreed with Mark because I had to do the same.

 

I believe the part is the correct shape but the curve along the fold is a bit shaper than the computer intended, causing the whole part to sit a little bit higher than intended.

 

Remember neither Mark or I were dealing with adjustable seats either. A good job because we are both well over six foot and need all the head room we can get.

 

 

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I agreed with Mark because I had to do the same.I believe the part is the correct shape but the curve along the fold is a bit shaper than the computer intended, causing the whole part to sit a little bit higher than intended.

 

Remember neither Mark or I were dealing with adjustable seats either. A good job because we are both well over six foot and need all the head room we can get.

Thanks, Steve.

I get the impression the adjustable seats are still undergoing market evaluation (regardless of pilot height)!

 

I just sent some pics etc to Reg for his comments. I've had this together and apart so many times now, I'm in danger of wearing out my clekos!

 

 

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Yes I have my tunnel at the front on top of those tabs as at the time of the photos it was just fitted to see how it looked before riveting.

 

Just a point of interest part SF277 is only mention in the fix seat instructions of the manual but not mention at all in the adjustable seat section hence saying that they may have included bits not needed as said earlier and the changes they made can get be a little confusing. I still install SF277 as It help strengthen and tie it all in nicely and just my thoughts.

 

 

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Yes I have my tunnel at the front on top of those tabs as at the time of the photos it was just fitted to see how it looked before riveting.Just a point of interest part SF277 is only mention in the fix seat instructions of the manual but not mention at all in the adjustable seat section hence saying that they may have included bits not needed as said earlier and the changes they made can get be a little confusing. I still install SF277 as It help strengthen and tie it all in nicely and just my thoughts.

Thanks again, Guy. And I take your point re SF277: it appears in one of the drawings in my manual, but with no number, and no mention is made of fitting it. Having said that, I agree that there must be benefit in tying things together at that point, and someone once specified some big rivets to do just that. However, it would be nice if there is some better solution than panel-beating the tunnel. I would like to see what you have done.

 

At present I am also a little handicapped as my Front fuselage section has no parts list, and describes the newer elevator horn setup, not the older one that is in my kit. Same for explode spares diagrams and Controls, so the guru is sourcing new manual sections for me fro ICP (I hope).

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Guy (or anyone else who can help), I'm putting things together at the firewall, wasn't sure which rivets and decided to inventory what I had.

 

I find I have a bag of short A5 domed steel rivets: 3.87mm diameter, 8mm long. There's 94 of them.

 

These are not the ones for the fuselage under the doors: they are longer, they give you just enough (40), and I already put them in.

 

I emailed Reg, but he doesn't know what they are for, he is only aware of the longer ones mentioned above.

 

Do you have any idea where these are supposed to go? I had the thought that steel rivets would be better in the firewall, but I'm guessing, and the manual does not call for them. Thanks.

 

 

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Thanks, Steve. I used stainless rivets down the (prefabricated) bend in the sidewalls, and carried on under with them as far as the extruded angle, as required by the manual. That used 38 of the 40 longer stainless rivets in separate bag. Reg says these are the only steel rivets he's aware of in the kit.

 

He's going to ask ICP, but in the meantime I thought I would ask here, and Guy's is a recent kit/build.

 

Thanks, Mark, I will go back to the manual and check the undercarriage instructions. I did not do anything in that area yet.

 

 

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Hi Bob and sorry I'm no help as I just can't remember the riveting side of things at and around the firewall but think joining the 2 firewall sections together required stainless rivets but I could be wrong on that

 

 

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Hi Bob and sorry I'm no help as I just can't remember the riveting side of things at and around the firewall but think joining the 2 firewall sections together required stainless rivets but I could be wrong on that

Thanks, Guy. That would certainly make sense to me. But the joining holes are A4 and these are A5 rivets.

However, A5 rivets are used in the various doublers that are then fixed to the firewall. But the manual says nothing about rivet type there.

 

So far, the steel rivets remain a mystery....

 

 

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Thanks, Guy. That would certainly make sense to me. But the joining holes are A4 and these are A5 rivets.However, A5 rivets are used in the various doublers that are then fixed to the firewall. But the manual says nothing about rivet type there.

So far, the steel rivets remain a mystery....

There's quite a few stainless rivets in the sliding seats, in the high stress areas where they have stainless doubler plates.

 

 

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There's quite a few stainless rivets in the sliding seats, in the high stress areas where they have stainless doubler plates.

Okay, thank you, I have minimal instructions for those assemblies, for the seats only (not the rails), with no parts lists and no mention of rivet types.

Looks like I'll need to chase that up.

 

For now, as it is basic firewall forward construction that I am wanting to complete, can you confirm that it is all aluminium rivets? Thanks.

 

 

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Right, excellent dealer email support, confirms rivets I described as steel are in fact stainless steel, and belong in the adjustable seats. Has also supplied a current copy of the seat assembly instructions. End of puzzle.

 

Thanks all for the help...on with the game!

 

 

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Okay, thank you, I have minimal instructions for those assemblies, for the seats only (not the rails), with no parts lists and no mention of rivet types.Looks like I'll need to chase that up.

For now, as it is basic firewall forward construction that I am wanting to complete, can you confirm that it is all aluminium rivets? Thanks.

Firewall is all aluminium rivets A4 and A5' s

 

 

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Right, excellent dealer email support, confirms rivets I described as steel are in fact stainless steel, and belong in the adjustable seats. Has also supplied a current copy of the seat assembly instructions. End of puzzle.Thanks all for the help...on with the game!

The Savannah really sounds like a giant jig saw puzzle!

 

 

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